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Old 07-06-09, 03:31 AM   #16
reaper7
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Default How to Build

Actually quite easy to Make.
First print out the 3 layers onto either sticky backed photo paper or standard photo paper if want to glue it.
Cut out and stick to approx 5mm plastic sheet, rough cut out the disc's and base layer.
Now to create perfect circular disc's the method I used was to fix an Electric Disc Sander at right angled to a Table top with clamps.
This allowed me sand down all the items to shape using both hand to work the pieces.
Then drill out the center holes and place a washer between each disc and secure with a bolt and nut. Finished.

Hope this is of use.
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Old 07-06-09, 08:17 AM   #17
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Excellent work Reaper7!! I like the idea of putting the dials on a sticky backed photo paper, then putting them on a hard surface (like plexiglass) to hold them together. I found with continued use the hard stock paper would oval out at the center hole and allow the dials to move a bit. Your graphics are superior. Thanks for making a hand made calculator a desk top necessity!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by joegrundman
It's very nice, but what's the comparative advantage of this design over this replica of the historical tool here which includes a periscope overlay?
Well for one thing, the AoB Calculator has individual degree marks for precise measurement. This allows for a more accurate map plot of a target when disabling the map option for showing a targets position. With a precise target heading (and target range) Angle on Bow will be found, completing the firing solution (short of speed estimation).

I'll be honest with you, their quite similar. But believe me, I hadn't even seen the original Is-was (or whatever you want to call it) untill after I introduced mine. I guess necessity breeds ideas no matter what the decade. My first design of a three dial calculator (1. Subs Relative Bearing, 2. Compass Bearing, 3. AoB Bearing) came from a two dial calculator introduced by a fellow named Wazoo during the early Silent Hunter III days. Wazoo had a great tutorial for manually finding range with the U-Boats which I cut my teeth on. I figured by adding the subs relative bearing (the bearing seen along the top of the periscopes image or TBT) a better calculator for finding a targets position and heading could be made. I worked on the dials during the winter of '06-'07, cutting and pasting (no really I used Elmers glue to paste "Word" numerals and compass descriptions onto a dial; used Photo Shop to clean up the glue mess), then figured out how to get my feet wet in posting in a forum I'd only been a long time reader of. Up to that point, I hadn't figured out how to use the Position Keeper yet. I may not have made the Calculator at all since the Position Keeper does a great job of calculating a targets heading and true north bearing. Anyway, the tool is extremely useful for the German side of play; and convenient for the American side to use when at the map station plotting a targets bearing and heading.
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The HMS Shannon vs. USS Chesapeake outside Boston Harbor June 1, 1813

USS Chesapeake Captain James Lawrence lay mortally wounded...
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.."tell the men to fire faster, fight 'till she sinks,..boys don't give up the ship!"

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Old 07-10-09, 11:32 AM   #18
reaper7
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Hi Guys, I have posted my version of the Is-Was calculator.
Download link can be found in post 2.
Enjoy.

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Old 07-10-09, 12:55 PM   #19
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Default i do not have the tools

Gardening tools I have. Electric tools I do not have. I bid $25 plus shipping, Captain Reaper, sir, for a finished product.
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Old 08-08-09, 01:43 PM   #20
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Reaper7 those look awesome.



I wish I could build one, but nope.
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Old 09-06-09, 02:35 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reaper7 View Post
Hi I am releasing my printable AoB calculator based on the excellent Tutorial and AoB Calculator by CapnScurvy http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/show....php?t=150069.

These can be printed out and laminated to make them stiff, or in my case printed onto transparencies and glued onto perspex or plastic.

Download is here:
http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/down...o=file&id=1226
Mirror:
http://rapidshare.com/files/25098266..._Printable.rar

I can not understand, it is too difficult.
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Old 09-06-09, 06:37 PM   #22
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AOB pshhh. just look at your attack map and turn your boat till you think its going to hit. AOB is rearly correct when your spotted because they swerve too much like a DD always zig zags at high speeds and chances are when you fie hes gonna turn. a computer cant dertermine that in SH4. thats why its up to YOU. You know which way hell turn next. YOU can esmiate wherehes going. and look at attack map, swing your boat till you see a good target line for your toorp and Fire. usually a human's instincts trump Computer because all IT knows it what You put in there. its not gonna know itll turn but YOU do.
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Old 09-08-09, 05:52 AM   #23
reaper7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqdw77483 View Post
I can not understand, it is too difficult.
Ckeck out the lint to CapnScurvy excellent AoB Turirial as linked
or click http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/show....php?t=150069.

Also do a search for "is-was" on site, should find some tutorial on the original calculator.
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Old 09-19-09, 11:03 AM   #24
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not sure if this was a typo or not.. but your metric speed caclulation on the side of the calculator looks abit strange.

it should be meters not yards.


anyway great job.

I used to use a printed version of wazoo's on stock paper. But since his didn't have a relative bearing dial (only had 2 dials), I made a 3rd dial for it by shrikning the original top dial to fit inside it.


p.s. i've decided im going to make it like you did when i get some spare time.

how much is a sheet of plastic? and 5mm looks abit thick from your photo, but it could just be the photo adding a few pounds to it hehe
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Old 09-19-09, 11:07 AM   #25
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Default I raise my bid

Due to competitive bidding, I raise my bid to $27.10.
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Old 09-21-09, 07:21 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gutted View Post
not sure if this was a typo or not.. but your metric speed caclulation on the side of the calculator looks abit strange.

it should be meters not yards.
Ah well spotted, never noticed that (Thats what I get for using copy and paste.
Will update and repost.
As for the thickness of the perspex 5mm gives it a very sturdy feel, but 3mm would still be quite stiff and suitable.
The perspex I had to hand was actually perspex broucher holders that I had lying around.

To I'm goin' down wish I could make these but In the middle of a house build and have no time to spare. Possible someone out there that could though.


EDIT: New link for AoB Calculator: http://rapidshare.com/files/28301609..._Printable.rar

Last edited by reaper7; 09-21-09 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 09-30-09, 10:25 AM   #27
gutted
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Hope you dont mind, but i used your graphics for a software version of an AoB wheel (with a built in zero gyro lead angle solver).

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=156698


I gave credit for the imagery in the readme and in the program's about box.
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Old 01-21-10, 10:48 PM   #28
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I made one of my own that is mostly the same as CapnScurvy's original, but I changed a few things to my own personal preference:

  1. I drew it in PowerPoint and exported to .pdf, so it is all vector art instead of raster, resulting in the sharpest, most crisp-looking print possible.
  2. I changed up some colors to make it easier to see certain things
  3. I added another layer which is just a laminated line, making it easier to get bearings from one wheel to the next
  4. I angled all the numbers to be read from the outside of the ring vice the inside, minimizing the amount of upside-down reading

Here are a couple pictures of it. If anyone is interested, I can upload the .pdf, or even the original .ppt in case you want to customize it even further.





Some notes on how I constructed it:
  • The 3 circles are plain paper printed on a color laser printer then laminated.
  • The line (top layer) is just a line drawn on a label-maker, then laminated for rigidity. You could also print a line on transparency paper, then laminate that.
  • I used an eyelet to hold it all together. You can get eyelets and eyelet tools at most craft stores (usually near clothing buttons, or scrapbooking stuff.) I got mine at Wal Mart: $7 for the tool and about 50 eyelets.
  • Punching the holes was tricky. I used a needle to punch out the circumference I needed based on the size of the eyelet. I think they make eyelet punches, but they didn't have them when I bought the eyelets.
A big thanks to CapnScurvy for making the original one! Hopefully this one gets the seal of approval from him.
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Old 02-09-10, 04:56 PM   #29
reaper7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gutted View Post
Hope you dont mind, but i used your graphics for a software version of an AoB wheel (with a built in zero gyro lead angle solver).

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=156698


I gave credit for the imagery in the readme and in the program's about box.

Not at all Gutted Look forward to using the software version myself.
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Old 02-09-10, 05:44 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerm138 View Post
[*]I used an eyelet to hold it all together. You can get eyelets and eyelet tools at most craft stores (usually near clothing buttons, or scrapbooking stuff.) I got mine at Wal Mart: $7 for the tool and about 50 eyelets.
I used an eyelet also for a similar wheel. However after a bit of use the curved edges started to cut into the disks. So I suggest to put something hard (like a thin washer) inbetween to protect the disk.
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