I think I found my new home!

[WernherVonTrapp]

Originally Posted by frau kaleun

Oh, I'm a-gonna keep going. I don't really have a choice, I'm stuck with the place now.

Got new bedroom furniture that's supposed to be delivered sometime in the next couple of hours... so I may spend the rest of the day standing in the room pondering whether or not I had them put everything in the perfect spot, and then rearranging the furniture in various ways until I find something I like. Thank heavens I finally bought some furniture sliders, those things are worth their weight in gold.

The latest fix-it dilemma has already presented itself, though:



That's the side of the counter on my kitchen "peninsula" that faces the dinette area... it's fine on the other side, there the cabinet framing supports it all the way from one end to the other. But on this side there is no support except at the two ends so it is sagging down in the middle.

I've got a couple long, narrow pieces of sturdy fiberboard that came as protective filler in an Ikea box and they are just about the right width to fit in there and provide some support, problem is I can't get them in there. I can lift up the center of the counter a bit but not enough to slide anything in that would be wide enough to make it (approximately) level all the way across.

So... can I get some kind of wedge things that I can hammer in and work my way from one end to the middle to raise and hold it up while I get something permanent in place? Keep in mind that I don't want to destroy the cabinet backs there, so maybe... I dunno... rubber wedges? Is that even the way to go here?

Well, this may not be the answer, but you can pick up an adhesive and caulking gun at Lowe's for
probably around $10.00. You also can buy any number of different styles of "counter brackets":


You may need an extra hand, but apply the adhesive to the top section of the edge (under the counter) and then weigh it down with something heavy to keep the gaps flush against the surface. Then screw in the brackets which (if the wood on the counter is thick enough) should hold everything down and in place. Keep the weight on the counter-top until the adhesive is completely dried. In the end, you can pick up a few bar stools and you'll now have a breakfast bar.
Is that a Granite or Corian counter top? Granite is not flexible like Corian.

[frau kaleun]

It can't be granite, at least I don't think so. It looks like stone but it's some kind of flexible wood product on the other side that I can see where it protrudes out over the cabinets. Plus I can actually lift up the part that's sagging, just not enough to get anything up between the bottom of the counter and the top of the cabinet frame to brace it permanently.

I don't really think I want permanent brackets sticking out like that... still unsure about counter stools as I'll have a table and chairs right there, right now I'm leaning towards "no" on that as I think it will just clutter things up and make it feel crowded especially if I get the dining table/chairs that I eventually want to get.

All I want is something between the back of the cabinet frame and the counter bottom to fill the gap that is causing it to sag. Problem is, how to get it in there I can't hold up the counter AND do that at the same time. Some kind of "soft" wedge might be the answer.

[Wolferz]

I dunno, Frau. A soft wedge would more than likely compress eventually or not work at all and getting the wedge/s in there could damage the woodwork. With only two hands to work with, it eliminates your previous tactic used for the hood.
Hence my reason for suggesting a bottle jack with a 2x4 wedged between the jack and the countertop from within the island. That is, if there is storage space within to allow that kind of access. Once the sag is jacked up you could then place your support material in the gap.
Disney engineering at its finest.

[frau kaleun]

Originally Posted by Wolferz

I dunno, Frau. A soft wedge would more than likely compress eventually or not work at all and getting the wedge/s in there could damage the woodwork. With only two hands to work with, it eliminates your previous tactic used for the hood.
Hence my reason for suggesting a bottle jack with a 2x4 wedged between the jack and the countertop from within the island. That is, if there is storage space within to allow that kind of access. Once the sag is jacked up you could then place your support material in the gap.
Disney engineering at its finest.

Well, I don't want to leave the wedges in there permanently, I just need something that will give a little extra support so I can lift the counter up high enough in the middle to get something firmer in there to brace the center. I was thinking if I could get something in closer to the ends where there *is* support from the cabinet frame, I could just work my towards the middle until the middle is raised up enough. Then I can slide something in for permanent support and remove the wedges. I just don't want to drive something in there that is going to damage the cabinet frame while I'm working.

I don't know what a bottle jack is, I'll have to look it up.

Meanwhile - I have bedroom furniture! No more sleeping a foot off the floor, and a real nightstand to put a lamp on.

[Platapus]

Originally Posted by frau kaleun

I don't really think I want permanent brackets sticking out like that

I bet those brackets could do a real job on someone's kneecaps if sitting on a stool by them.

[WernherVonTrapp]

Originally Posted by Platapus

I bet those brackets could do a real job on someone's kneecaps if sitting on a stool by them.

Well, the brackets on my counter don't stick out like those. They're just basic "L" brackets. I've been in many homes that have them on overlapping counter space. Probably won't see them on granite tops because of the inherent weight. My kids use our counter as a breakfast bar and have never hit themselves on the brackets.
Like I said, there are many different styles to choose from. Just Google the words "Counter Brackets" and click on "Images", you'll see what I mean.
If it's wood or Corian, you may not have another inexspensive choice.

[Wolferz]

Hydraulic Bottle jacks...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4833_200304833

A six ton model sells for around $20.00
Granted, you won't need one that heavy duty unless you want to change the oil in your car.

Lowes sells a two ton jobbie for $12.97

[frau kaleun]

Originally Posted by Wolferz

Hydraulic Bottle jacks...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4833_200304833

A six ton model sells for around $20.00
Granted, you won't need one that heavy duty unless you want to change the oil in your car.

Lowes sells a two ton jobbie for $12.97

If my countertop weighs two tons and I've been lifting it an inch with just my shoulder, I need to quit this homeowner business and apply for a job with the Avengers.

Looking at that picture, though, wouldn't I have to sit the thing on the floor? Like you sit a car jack on the pavement? Would it extend at the top or something, allowing the part that would be pushing upward to reach up high enough to actually make contact with the bottom of the counter? I've jacked a car up with something similar but a car body sits way lower to the ground.

[Wolferz]

Meanwhile - I have bedroom furniture! No more sleeping a foot off the floor, and a real nightstand to put a lamp on.

Wouldn't sleeping a foot off the floor give you less distance to fall if you rolled out of bed in your sleep?

NAJL...
Need Another Jedi Lamp.

I used to roll out of bed until I started taking Viagra.

[WernherVonTrapp]

There's a lot of different types and sizes.
Your best bet would be to consult someone
at Lowe's or Home Depot.

[Wolferz]

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, or Wern is.

Frau is talking about a peninsula cabinet with countertop that extends out at a ninety degree angle from wall mounted cabinetry, are you not?
If so, you would place the jack in the bottom of the cabinet, set a 2x4 cut to the right length between the jack and the underside of the counter. Slowly apply enough hydraulic pressure to raise the sag, then insert your support material in the gap. Remove jack and add it to your growing collection of tools.
You could, theoretically, do the same thing with just the 2x4 and a hammer. Wedging the board in between the cabinet floor and the countertop at the approximate center of the sag and using just the board as the support to raise the sag. It would be out of sight inside the back of the cabinet. If it's accessible. Lifting the sag should lower the end with the big gap shown in your photo.

Mickey will be proud. He might even hug you if Minnie isn't around ha ha.

[frau kaleun]

Originally Posted by Wolferz

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, or Wern is.

Frau is talking about a peninsula cabinet with countertop that extends out at a ninety degree angle from wall mounted cabinetry, are you not?

Yes, that's what it is.

If so, you would place the jack in the bottom of the cabinet, set a 2x4 cut to the right length between the jack and the underside of the counter. Slowly apply enough hydraulic pressure to raise the sag, then insert your support material in the gap. Remove jack and add it to your growing collection of tools.

Sadly there is a shelf built into the back of the cabinet that extends the full length of the thing. It's only half as deep as the cabinet but I wouldn't be able to sit the jack on the cabinet bottom and apply pressure to the outer edge of the countertop, which is where i need it. The shelf is pretty thick and sturdy but already sagging in the middle too. I may replace it in the future but I wouldn't want to risk using it as a base for the jack and have it crack or even worse crack the cabinet frame that it's attached to.

I could wedge something into the gap from inside the cabinet, provided I can get in there to do it - they're pretty big cabinets so it's probably doable. At least then if I do have to wedge things directly into the gap to raise the countertop I wouldn't be risking the same damage to the outer, visible part of the cabinet on the other side.

[WernherVonTrapp]

Originally Posted by Wolferz

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, or Wern is.

Frau is talking about a peninsula cabinet with countertop that extends out at a ninety degree angle from wall mounted cabinetry, are you not?

Yeah, that's what I thought you were talking about. I have the same thing in my kitchen. If I'm misunderstanding, maybe it's the overhang part. Are you saying that the countertop just need to be pushed back further untill it's flush against the cabinet in her picture?

I think you're spot-on with the 2 X 4 underneath the entire length of the countertop in order to keep it from cracking while lifting. I'd even suggest a 2 X 6, depending on the material integrity of the countertop.
Then again, it's always possible that I'm on another planet, as usual.

[frau kaleun]

Originally Posted by WernherVonTrapp

Yeah, that's what I thought you were talking about. I have the same thing in my kitchen. If I'm misunderstanding, maybe it's the overhang part. Are you saying that the countertop just need to be pushed back further untill it's flush against the cabinet in her picture?

I think you're spot-on with the 2 X 4 underneath the entire length of the countertop in order to keep it from cracking while lifting. I'd even suggest a 2 X 6, depending on the material integrity of the countertop.

It doesn't need to be pushed back, it needs to be raised up.

One end of the counter:



As you can see, there is a "lip" or whatever on the underside of the edge of the countertop that sits on top of the cabinet frame. This causes the rest of the underside to sit slightly higher than the top of the cabinet. Same thing on the other end:



In the middle, however, the edge of the counter is not over the cabinet because the countertop is oversized to extend outward over the back of it, to provide a counter for someone to sit at if you get barstools or whatever and sit them under there.



So there's nothing along the length of the underside of the countertop to hold it all up level with either end and it's sagging down into the gap between it and the cabinet. I want to raise it up to be level, or as level as possible, and then slide something in the gap to support it permanently.

[WernherVonTrapp]

Originally Posted by frau kaleun

It doesn't need to be pushed back, it needs to be raised up.

One end of the counter:



As you can see, there is a "lip" or whatever on the underside of the edge of the countertop that sits on top of the cabinet frame. This causes the rest of the underside to sit slightly higher than the top of the cabinet. Same thing on the other end:



In the middle, however, the edge of the counter is not over the cabinet because the countertop is oversized to extend outward over the back of it, to provide a counter for someone to sit at if you get barstools or whatever and sit them under there.



So there's nothing along the length of the underside of the countertop to hold it all up level with either end and it's sagging down into the gap between it and the cabinet. I want to raise it up to be level, or as level as possible, and then slide something in the gap to support it permanently.

Ahh, yes, that'd be Pluto. Where I was at, that is. Hmmm. hmmm, (thinking which button I can push on the dashboard to get me back to earth). Ah, here it is (WoooooooSHHH!). OK, I'm back!

Well, after following Wolferz's advice on lifting it, you could use some pine shelving boards to fill in the gap. That doesn't look (in the photo) to be 2" deep, so maybe a 1" X 6" length of pine, glued and screwed into place.