Dragon Models 1/350 Ohio class submarine w/ launching missile build

Onkel Neal · 05-25-22, 04:38 PM

I did not know you could make your own decals, which is going to be a life-saver! Half of the decals are shattering as soon as I try to coax them off the paper.

ET2SN · 05-26-22, 05:00 AM

Ah, geez. This is a case of too little too late, but you ALWAYS want to have some Microscale Liquid Decal Film handy when dealing with old decals.

I wish I had thought about posting this earlier.
You're not completely lost, however. You can use the draft marker decals from any of the Hobby Boss 688 models. There are some minor differences but no one will notice them.

If you have most of the decals for your Ohio still on the paper, stop and get that bottle of Liquid Decal Film first. You could also try the old Testor's Decal Making Kit, you'll want the can of spray sealer.

Check on Amazon, Microscale sells a "three pack" of Micro Sol, Micro Set, and Micro Decal Film.

Again, sorry I didn't think about posting this earlier.

BTW, don't concentrate too much on printing your own decals for the sub. You would NEED an "ALPS" style of printer that's capable of printing white ink at least at 800 DPI or finer.

Trust me, you don't have one. Neither does any one in your town unless they own a specialty printing business.

Onkel Neal · 05-26-22, 06:38 AM

Oh man, thanks! I'm glad there a solution (!) for this. I will try that before any further decal work on this model.

I was able to get some of the numbers to work, I will try to borrow some from one of my HobbyBoss kits.

Re: printing decals, I wonder if I take the his res file and decal paper to Office Depot, can they print it...?

Cybermat47 · 05-26-22, 06:50 AM

Gorgeous!

ET2SN · 05-26-22, 07:08 AM

You'll need to ask first if they can print in white ink or lacquer.

If they say "Yes" and don't put you on hold for an hour, you'll also need to ask if they can print at 800-1,200 DPI.

I'm betting that they won't be able to do either.

An ALPS type of printer is closer to an actual printing press where you can control the type and color of the ink. Brand new, they tend to be scary expensive because they are meant to run in a commercial environment.
Finding one that is Used is usually a dice throw. In a commercial environment, these things get beaten like a rented mule.

One thing you could try is to check the links I posted in the Resources thread. There's a guy listed who prints decals for racing cars. As I understand it, he found a decent ALPS printer and took the time to learn how to use and maintain it.

One last thing, a lot of this comes down to economics. A kit maker may contact a commercial printer (ie, Cartograph) to produce a bulk order of decals for 20,000 or more kits. There's lead time and prep time involved, but the per-unit cost stays low.
Outside of those "bulk" numbers, things tend to get expensive.

Onkel Neal · 05-27-22, 07:16 AM

Today/tonight I plan to start the process of mating the sub to the base, hooking up the wires to the switch, and then making the missile cloud. That's going to involve wire, cotton, hot glue, LEDs, soldering, acrylic gel, and white glue. If that goes well

, I should be done until I get the decal situation cleared up.

Onkel Neal · 05-29-22, 02:34 PM

Since the missile portion seems likely to make the model top-heavy, I'm extending the pegs on the plastic base, and adding some tabs to screw it down onto the wooden base, so any jiggling the switch is less likely to capsize the boat.

Decided to do some touch up painting, the Mission Models paint is really odd. It has a mottled look after handling. Maybe I should have let it dry longer? Well, after the touchup coats I followed up with 2 coats matt clear...

Finally, completed the electrical circuits!

Testing different configs of smoke and glues. Looks like plain Elmer's white glue is the best.

Onkel Neal · 05-30-22, 11:06 AM

Complete except decals, waiting for a set from a LA class model.

greitungzing · 02-27-25, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Testing different configs of smoke and glues. Looks like plain Elmer's white glue is the best.

Regarding its color, has the Elmer's glue held up over time? I have found white Elmer's glue to turn yellow after a number of years.

05-25-22, 04:38 PM	#1
Onkel Neal Born to Run Silent Join Date: Jan 1997 Location: Cougar Trap, Texas Posts: 21,383 Downloads: 541 Uploads: 224	I did not know you could make your own decals, which is going to be a life-saver! Half of the decals are shattering as soon as I try to coax them off the paper. __________________ SUBSIM - 26 Years on the Web

05-26-22, 05:00 AM	#2
ET2SN Ocean Warrior Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 2,652 Downloads: 60 Uploads: 0	Ah, geez. This is a case of too little too late, but you ALWAYS want to have some Microscale Liquid Decal Film handy when dealing with old decals. I wish I had thought about posting this earlier. You're not completely lost, however. You can use the draft marker decals from any of the Hobby Boss 688 models. There are some minor differences but no one will notice them. If you have most of the decals for your Ohio still on the paper, stop and get that bottle of Liquid Decal Film first. You could also try the old Testor's Decal Making Kit, you'll want the can of spray sealer. Check on Amazon, Microscale sells a "three pack" of Micro Sol, Micro Set, and Micro Decal Film. Again, sorry I didn't think about posting this earlier. BTW, don't concentrate too much on printing your own decals for the sub. You would NEED an "ALPS" style of printer that's capable of printing white ink at least at 800 DPI or finer. Trust me, you don't have one. Neither does any one in your town unless they own a specialty printing business. Last edited by ET2SN; 05-26-22 at 05:16 AM.

05-26-22, 06:38 AM	#3
Onkel Neal Born to Run Silent Join Date: Jan 1997 Location: Cougar Trap, Texas Posts: 21,383 Downloads: 541 Uploads: 224	Oh man, thanks! I'm glad there a solution (!) for this. I will try that before any further decal work on this model. I was able to get some of the numbers to work, I will try to borrow some from one of my HobbyBoss kits. Re: printing decals, I wonder if I take the his res file and decal paper to Office Depot, can they print it...? __________________ SUBSIM - 26 Years on the Web

05-26-22, 06:50 AM	#4
Cybermat47 Willing Webfooted Beast Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Australia Posts: 5,408 Downloads: 300 Uploads: 23	Gorgeous! __________________ Historical TWoS Gameplay Guide: http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?p=2572620 Historical FotRSU Gameplay Guide: https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/sho....php?p=2713394

05-29-22, 02:34 PM	#7
Onkel Neal Born to Run Silent Join Date: Jan 1997 Location: Cougar Trap, Texas Posts: 21,383 Downloads: 541 Uploads: 224	Since the missile portion seems likely to make the model top-heavy, I'm extending the pegs on the plastic base, and adding some tabs to screw it down onto the wooden base, so any jiggling the switch is less likely to capsize the boat. Decided to do some touch up painting, the Mission Models paint is really odd. It has a mottled look after handling. Maybe I should have let it dry longer? Well, after the touchup coats I followed up with 2 coats matt clear... Finally, completed the electrical circuits! Testing different configs of smoke and glues. Looks like plain Elmer's white glue is the best. __________________ SUBSIM - 26 Years on the Web

05-26-22, 07:08 AM	#5
ET2SN Ocean Warrior Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 2,652 Downloads: 60 Uploads: 0	You'll need to ask first if they can print in white ink or lacquer. If they say "Yes" and don't put you on hold for an hour, you'll also need to ask if they can print at 800-1,200 DPI. I'm betting that they won't be able to do either. An ALPS type of printer is closer to an actual printing press where you can control the type and color of the ink. Brand new, they tend to be scary expensive because they are meant to run in a commercial environment. Finding one that is Used is usually a dice throw. In a commercial environment, these things get beaten like a rented mule. One thing you could try is to check the links I posted in the Resources thread. There's a guy listed who prints decals for racing cars. As I understand it, he found a decent ALPS printer and took the time to learn how to use and maintain it. One last thing, a lot of this comes down to economics. A kit maker may contact a commercial printer (ie, Cartograph) to produce a bulk order of decals for 20,000 or more kits. There's lead time and prep time involved, but the per-unit cost stays low. Outside of those "bulk" numbers, things tend to get expensive.

05-30-22, 11:06 AM	#8
Onkel Neal Born to Run Silent Join Date: Jan 1997 Location: Cougar Trap, Texas Posts: 21,383 Downloads: 541 Uploads: 224	Complete except decals, waiting for a set from a LA class model.