View Full Version : Revell VIIC 1-72 scale my way...
Im going to atempt to put together the model of submarine type VIIC by Revell.
The model spent last couple of years on the wardrobe gathering dust , while i was ploughing my way thru aray of unfinished projects from the past :oops:
The choice of aftermarked parts is good , and everyone can find the figures , and photoetched parts to suit their taste.
My choice was Eduard P/E , combined with some metal barrels , and crew for 88mm gun and sentry with some deck crev. Im still undecided on that one though.
The furnishings probably will be chosen along the way , as im still awaiting the Eduards P/E (bloody post) and im holding the talks about barells still.
Hopefully they will turn up this week and i can start doing some work.
The reason im writing this post is simple. For one it will provide me with much needed boost , and hopefuly you can help me on some technical problems along the way , as there are some issues with the kit , which need to be corrected.
To be continued...
Have fun drilling out the limber holes with a pin drill and filing them all square with a needle file, I remember doing that with that kit, it took bloody ages:rotfl:
:D Chock
nikimcbee
10-21-07, 10:03 PM
Any photos?
Bill Nichols
10-22-07, 12:07 PM
Are you going to go with a wooden deck? A nice looking one is available from Nautilus Models ( http://www.nautilusmodels.com/U-02/turm2.htm ). If I were building one, that's what I'd use. :yep:
http://modelingmadness.com/reviews/misc/ships/robertoubb.jpg
UglyMowgli
10-22-07, 12:36 PM
You can ask here :
http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/
Thanks for comments.
First of all i will have to decide which U-boat im gonna try to replicate.
Judging by the photobase available i was edging myself towards U-552 (as i think it is a beauty of its kind , and Erich Topp gets my vote anyday).
nikimcbee - of coursei will be posting the pics , what sens in topic like this without the pictures? :yep:
Here are some stills of the box:
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/4190/boxez3.th.jpg (http://img117.imageshack.us/my.php?image=boxez3.jpg)
The hull is big. The biggest model ever atempted by me , for visual comparison i placed the hull of the Type VIID Minenlager in 1-144 scale inside.
Even though the model of Type VIID is longer than standard VII the size diference is obvious:
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/2570/polowkakadlubawu4.th.jpg (http://img117.imageshack.us/my.php?image=polowkakadlubawu4.jpg)
First glance inside the box and everything looks in order , parts are neetly kept apart by some spacers on the mould / no more cracked wintergartens /.
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/9447/spruts2yk3.th.jpg (http://img117.imageshack.us/my.php?image=spruts2yk3.jpg)
The detail is of good quality , even out of the box this model will look the part:
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8707/spruts1zy9.th.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=spruts1zy9.jpg)
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/4716/spruts3fe4.th.jpg (http://img117.imageshack.us/my.php?image=spruts3fe4.jpg)
Instruction is clear with choice of diferent U-boat possibilities covered:
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/7097/kalkicg9.th.jpg (http://img117.imageshack.us/my.php?image=kalkicg9.jpg)
That is to be decided before i open the floodholes , as they difer from one boat to another.
Bill Nichols - i was looking up the websites with wooden decks , and only thing i can say is : only wood can give true effect of the wood , but i`ll wait for my eduard P/E to turn up , before spending more money on something that i may not use. But is a food for thought. :up:
Skybird
10-23-07, 05:08 AM
I once had a type VII as a model and put it together, the hull on one side was open from stern to bow, so that you could have a glance at the interior. I was around 12 or 13, and in an effort to make it look more Klingon, I choosed an awfully wrong selection of dark colours. when I was done, it looked almost like the "Black Terror" when the sun had hidden behind the clouds.. :lol:
The decision has been made , and its gonna be U-552 early.
There isnt lot of diference between early and late 552 , just water deflectors around the 88mm gun , and some small cosmetic stuff regarding conning tower and exhausts.
First line of attack is sorting out the flood holes , as Revell just riddled the hull with as many holes as they possibly could.
I decided on using the photoetched parts from White ensight for lower parts of the hull , because the areas in the model are totaly off scale and the pattern of holes is from Mars.
Upper part of hull isnt much better . For casual modeler that is not the problem , because it still will look the part , but if you decided to make the model nearly identical to the real thing , you need to start drilling and filling.
First port side.
Front flooding holes look ok , all is needed is filling 2 holes.
The holes neer exhaust need lot more work as some are wrong shape, some are in the wrong place, and some are missing.
http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/7986/portsidefloodholesid7.th.png (http://img229.imageshack.us/my.php?image=portsidefloodholesid7.png)
All the holes are going to be open in my model.
For that task im using Dremmel tool and sandpaper. To beginn with graze the inside of the hull with Dremmel untill you see the light thru the holes , then switch to sandpaper. Its easy to overdo with power tools , and the last thing i wont is rushing the job.
For the filling im using White Putty from Squadron.
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/3487/image3nh4.th.jpg (http://img139.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image3nh4.jpg)
You can see the plastic in this areas is quiet thick , but be careful with power tools...
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1966/image4qo1.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image4qo1.jpg)
Front flood holes are in the wrong place and are to big. Some
U-boats had these vents arranged in pairs. The paired
arrangement featured in Blohm & Voss boats such as U 552, U 556 and U 564.
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/8819/image5bi8.th.jpg (http://img139.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image5bi8.jpg)
TBC...
Still drilling and filling , theres so much to be done...
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/8209/picture005lk2.th.jpg (http://img70.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture005lk2.jpg)
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6681/picture003qw3.th.jpg (http://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture003qw3.jpg)
TBC...
Starboard side is even trickier.
Picture below show the paterns of limber holes in Revel kit and U-552.
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/3979/48534017of1.png
I trimmed thin bit of plastic /leftover from old revell kit/ and glued it in place of missing lumber holes.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/1159/starboardlr1.th.jpg (http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=starboardlr1.jpg)
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/9999/wypelnieniexn6.th.jpg (http://img526.imageshack.us/my.php?image=wypelnieniexn6.jpg)
Completed drilled holes.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/7168/image545ai7.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image545ai7.jpg)
TBC...
I finifhed drilling the main flood holes on starboard side of the hull.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/3717/3483948kn6.th.jpg (http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3483948kn6.jpg)
Now i have to wait for P/E parts delivery.
TBC...
Von Hinten
10-30-07, 04:59 AM
I'm going to keep an eye on this thread, since making one of these has been a silent wish from me as well. Thanks for covering this process skip. :up:
Thanks Von Hinten. I`ll do my best. ;)
I just realised its going to be about 1 -2 weeks untill i get the rest of the parts , so i started work on the surfacess. Because subs hull is not the straight surface i decided to give it more realistic look.
I decided to curve the tin ripple.
Carefuly scraping with the curved knife i managed to achieve this effect:
http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/8885/75757qu5.th.jpg (http://img453.imageshack.us/my.php?image=75757qu5.jpg)
http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/9748/5454mc9.th.jpg (http://img453.imageshack.us/my.php?image=5454mc9.jpg)
At that stage im not overly concerned about the rivets , as they are wrong shape on the model , and are sticking out to much for my liking. All the rivets are going to be replaced on my sub.
TBC...
bigboywooly
10-30-07, 10:07 AM
Sweet
Very detailed posts
I wonder what uboat Revell based the model on :hmm:
Obviously not a B und V boat
First test of the rivets.
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/4523/888787mf0.th.jpg (http://img503.imageshack.us/my.php?image=888787mf0.jpg)
It is only the test , and on the sub the rivets are much tighter.
I think it looks satisfactory. :yep:
Im having trouble finding good , clear pictures of the subs saddle tanks. Revell kit is simplyfied in this area and the surfaces are to straight , while the real boats had some dents and tin ripple to the tanks. Problem is i can not locate reference picture regarding internal ribing of the tanks. If someone has picture or drawing of that part of U-boat it will be highly apreciated.
Another aspect is the vents that are located on upper surface of the saddle tanks.
Again , the pictures i have are not conclusive , and most of the fotos are of the boats submerged wchich is of no help.
Thanks in advance.
TBC...
I've included some pictures below, but...
It will help you to understand what it goes like if you know a little bit about how they built the Type VII. It was built out of circular steel sections which were welded together, the middle two were purely cylindrical, but those which tapered to the bow and stern were basically conical. All of these were solid tubes which then had holes pierced in them where necessary, such as for the torpedo tubes, hatches and access to the conning tower, this formed the pressure hull. When the pressure hull was in one piece, the hole for the conning tower would be cut and thus things could be lowered inside to build the interior. While this was going on, the outer hull could be added.
The outer hull was basically streamlined plating added fore and aft, with a deck along the top, supported by steel ribs which were welded to the pressure hull, the ribs typically being 60 centimetres apart, the outer hull was pierced with the free-flooding holes but where it met the saddle tanks, it was supported on rib stanchions thus leaving a gap between the outer hull plating and the top of the saddle tanks, and you can see these supporting ribs on a picture I have attached. Only on the underside in the centre section was the pressure hull used to form part of the exterior shape (underneath).
So what you basically have is a big long cigar shape, with the outer hull sitting on top of it, with a big gap in between along the top so that things like external stowage, retractable bollards the anchor winch motor etc etc have somewhere to go. Sort of a bit like a 'sprung floor'. This gap being the reason for the many lift-up hatches along the deck, to allow access to various bits and pieces, although some of these access hatches were only intended to be used for dockyard servicing. The deck, incidentally, was covered with wooden planking so that it would not ice up so quickly as steel, and because it was simpler to leave a 1 centimetre gap between the planks so that it would assist in dive flooding, than it was to make something of that nature in steel.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/Sub1.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/Sub2.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/Sub3.jpg
Hope this helps. I've got plenty more reference if you need it, so just shout out if you'd like to see more.
:D Chock
Thank you for the superb answer Chock. Very important info there , but what im having problem with is the internal ribbing of the tanks. I understand how U-boat was build - regarding structure of the hull. I know there were ribs / cylindrical shaped steel rings , that were covered on outside with sheet of steel. The tanks i understand were added / welded / to the main body of the boat , with some sort of support underneath. These were the ribs of the tank. Problem is i do not know how many ribs were there per tank , and what was the spacing of them looking from the side.
I gather the welds on the tank do not represent the actual spacing , as it looks to far apart.
What i was trying to do is to shape the tanks / similar to what i done with the main body of the hull / simulating indents and accidents during u-boats life.
For that to achieve i need some reference regarding those ribs.
Picture below shows model of Wink Grisé where you can see the shadow of the ribs.
http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/4863/moreweldshj1.th.jpg (http://img131.imageshack.us/my.php?image=moreweldshj1.jpg)
Hope you can help Chock.
TBC...
Currently scanning some pics, check back in ten mins!
:D Chock
Okay, the pictures are of Otto Kretschmer's U-99 (VIIB) at drydock in Lorient in late 1940, so you'll need to use them as a guide rather than gospel for a VIIC, the main external visual difference between the VIIB and C being altered positioning of the external ventillation ducting, so it should serve as a good guide, technically, the tanks were different on the two, with an additional small buoyancy tank added to the main tank array, but externally things looked no different on the tanks. The schematics were tricky to scan, as they were on a tightly folded page, although you can determine many rib positions from them all the same. There is good reference for rippling detail on the last picture, which I can get to you at a higher resolution if you need it.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/Tank3.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/Tank2.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/Tank1.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/schematic1.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/schematic2.jpg
Try not to get glue on the carpet:rotfl:
:D Chock
Top notch!
Some say the picture is worth 1000 words...
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/6358/schematic2ph6.th.png (http://img258.imageshack.us/my.php?image=schematic2ph6.png)
Exactly what i was looking for Chock. Now guided by the rivets on the model i can pinpoint the ribs on the tanks. :D
Solved.
TBC...
Von Hinten
11-02-07, 01:52 PM
Got to love this community for this kind of information (almost) on demand. Absolutely priceless. :up:
Hi all,
Siara, i'm roughly at same stage you are in my build. I'm doing U-69.
I'm also trying to depict the oil-canning effect on the hull side's in the same manner that you are. Thanks go out to Chock for photo's of U-99 as this effect on this area is somewhat different from what i was led to believe!
I have a question. I found a line drawing on the net of U-570, on this drawing there appears to be some sort of bracing wire(?) on the trailing side of the forward dive planes. This is also evident on the prop models of U-96 in Das Boot. But, since seeing pic's that Chock posted of u-99 these 'wires' are no where to be seen:hmm:
Can anbody shed any light on this tiny but obvious (If missing) detail.
Thanks
Sav.
That would be these things:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/wire.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/wire3-1.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/wire2.jpg
I think they are actually on that other picture, they are probably masked because of the angle of the shot, as they do not go straight back, but are angled upwards slightly as they go to the rear, as evident on the drawings, the larger of which ought to assist you in placing in relation to the panelling line.
UT and GHG (marked on the photograph), pinpoint the locations of the Underwasser Telegraphie, and the Gruppenhorrchgerat. These being the underwater telephone systems for intercommuniction between U-Boats (also sometimes known as Gertrude). GHG is the 'Group Listening System'. Early boats had an array of eleven sensors, later ones had 24, which is the case in that picture.
To be honest, I'm not entirely sure what the purpose of the wire was, but it seems logical to asume it is something to do with the GHG, since the wire, if it goes along the inside of the fixed forward part of the bow plane, would terminate near the GHG sensors, and it does appear to have electrical insulators on it near the hull. Of course it could also be to prevent the tip of the plane fluttering during reversing, but how effective a single wire, as opposed to a pair, would be, is hard to say. If one equates it to the bracing on a biplane wing, then I'd imagine two wires would be more effective. I do know that the part of the dive plane which the wire is fixed to was a fairly substantial structure on U-Boats, because if you look at U-534 (the Type IX in Liverpool), that is the only part which remains, the rest having either broken off or (more likely) corroded away.
The wire (whatever its purpose was) can certainly be found on drawings of all marks of Type VII subs, although it often doesn't show up on them, so I'm guessing it was a standard feature.
:D Chock
Bloody Hell Chock,
You are now my new best mate:up:
This is my first forray into Naval modelling for many year's, i'm an avid aircraft fan.
This means that nearly all my ref material is of the flying kind, so finding decent pic's for this project has been mostly web based.
I'm currently waiting on the Bass wood deck's from Nautilus so things have slowed somewhat in my build. The upside of this is that i am forced to slog on with scraping of the hull sides to get the oil-canning effect. Again thanks to your pic's this can be done in a more accurate manner. As for the 'wires' i could not have asked for better, a BIG Thank you agian:rock:
Sav.
No probs, shout up if you need anything else. Whatever the hell those wires actually do, as long as you put them on your model in the right place, then I guess it will be correct even if we don't know what the hell their purpose is:rotfl:
I'd recommend using a .008 guitar string for them (the top E string for an electric guitar), secured into a hole drilled with a pin drill by smearing the end with superglue before you feed it in. Should cost you about 50p from a music shop, as they usually have loose ones in rummage bins. It would be around the correct thickness, and it takes paint okay too. I've used that for bracing wires on biplane models before, and it is just rigid enough to make feeding it into holes easy. A blob of glue on the wire in the right place, painted the same pale green as the tarnish you get on metal such as copper roofs is a good lookalike for the ceramic insulators (assuming thats what they are, and not turnbuckles).
And don't get glue on the carpet:rotfl:
:D Chock
Nice one Chock.
Savvy-good luck with your project. :up:
Im still at the stage of adding more realistic look to the hull.
As you can see on the picture the indents are done along with some damage due to poor parking :cool: .
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9830/94598xz8.th.jpg (http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=94598xz8.jpg)
TBC...
Completed drilling the 3 missing holes at the end of saddle tanks.
http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/8716/3ventszr7.th.jpg (http://img124.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3ventszr7.jpg)
TBC...
Mr postman delivered first part of my photo-etched sets. It took post office 3 weeks to deliver it , but at last i got them.
Im realy impressed by Eduard P/E. If they added any more detail to it , one could not see the diference-its that delicate.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/3023/dsc01087gq8.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01087gq8.jpg)
Still awaiting the P/E from White Ensign , along with Shatton metal gun barrels.
TBC...
I'm hearing ya on the post problem mate. I'm waiting for the wooden deck sections from White Ensign, not thier fault they are coming from the US!
Just ordered CMK's exterior set from Hannants, well worth the money as it put's right Revell's dire attempt at the UZO and attack scope housing, plus you get a pair of turned 'Ally' scopes and a new 88 deck gun! Oh, and four figure's:o
Sav.
Just ordered CMK's exterior set from Hannants, well worth the money as it put's right Revell's dire attempt at the UZO and attack scope housing, plus you get a pair of turned 'Ally' scopes and a new 88 deck gun! Oh, and four figure's:o
Sav.
Can you fix me with some link for that particular set please Savvy?
I thought the picture above does not justify the quality of Eduards workmanship i decided to take better pic to show you the amazing detail. For comparison i`ve added the 2 penny coin to the frame:
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/2780/detailkv7.th.jpg (http://img339.imageshack.us/my.php?image=detailkv7.jpg)
Watch out the picture is quiet large. You`ve been warned. ;)
*Thanks go to Hannants employee for packing the parts - exceptional protection.
TBC...
No worries mate,
As your familiar with Hannants type in this ref number, CMKN7204. Do this on their search page and it should take you straight to it. Also go here to see some decent pix of what you get for your money http://www.subpirates.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2436
Glen Cauley's web site is very informative also, he's the bloke in the link above, you'll see when ya get there!
Here's a quick rundown of what's going into my build. Eduard etch, Nautilus Bass wood decks, CMK set above and some 'crew' from Hecker and Goros.
Hope this help's
Sav.
Looks a nice combo Savvy.
I just got the total for the remaining parts from MxM (http://www.modelsbymickster.com/cgi-bin/hobbyshop/hobbyshop.pl?inv=Uboote) which is 90 £.
It includes:
-Yankee Modelworks Pressure Hull
-White Ensign Wooden Deck
-Warriors crew for CT/88mm gun/flak
-Shatton barrels/periscopes/antenna
I know CMK are about to release the pressure hull set of their own , but we have to wait and see what it turn out to bee first. Ill go for tried and tested Yankee Modelworks hull.
The thing thats been on my mind for the while is the weld lines on the boat.
Revell dealt with it by slapping straight lines of plastic on the model , and it does not look right for me.
In order to bring more realistic welds i had to design some sort of tool to change the welds appearance.
I came up with solution - more later.
TBC...
Soldering iron - thats the solution for the weld lines.
Because the temperature that soldering iron reaches was to much for the Revell plastic i came up with simple fix.
Length of copper wire was used , as it conducts the heat well.
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/232/lutni8.th.jpg (http://img337.imageshack.us/my.php?image=lutni8.jpg)
I shaped the tip to suit the width of the lines.
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/3332/tipmp3.th.jpg (http://img362.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tipmp3.jpg)
You can clearly see the "state" of the welds... :down:
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/6264/weld2pg1.th.jpg (http://img337.imageshack.us/my.php?image=weld2pg1.jpg)
...and after i gave`em the heat treatment...
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2645/8898pc1.th.jpg (http://img411.imageshack.us/my.php?image=8898pc1.jpg)
...and litle bit of sanding.
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/6425/64666cx0.th.jpg (http://img502.imageshack.us/my.php?image=64666cx0.jpg)
I think i come out nicely , and with a little bit of more sanding i should get nice subtle welds. :up:
TBC...
Got to hand it to ya Siara those welds look pretty bloody good:rock:
I have an idea of my own for applying extra weld seams, although i have'nt got around to trying it out yet so don't hold ya breath!!
How are you posting pix in this forum? I think i should start a thread of my own when i get going properly on this build (Thats if the postman ever get's off his fat arse and delivers my stuff) Would make a good comparison thread between two different builders taking on the same kit:hmm:
Keep the pix coming,
Sav.
Another technique for sorting out weld lines is to paint areas of them with liquid poly, since it works by effectively 'welding' plastic parts together, it attacks the plastic and softens it without the application of heat, takes a bit of experimenting to get the technique, so if you try it, do it on a bit of scrap first, but it works, sort of similar to making filler by dissolving bits of sprue in liquid poly.
Careful you don't go over the top with it though, lumpy welds with pinholes (in real life) would be considered poor, because they would be weak and not fuse to the base metal. The hallmark of good welding is for it to be smooth. Professional welders refer to poor welds as 'pigeon sh*t', because that's what a poor weld line resembles, one good whack with a lump hammer and a weld like that is off and in bits on the floor, I know this because I was taught to weld by a guy that used to do it on rigs at sea incidentally, and he used to take the p*ss out of my first attempts mercilessly! And don't forget, the Germans were way ahead of most nations in welding techniques even in WW1, as evidenced by many of their aircraft using steel rather than wooden sub frames, so their welding was generally very smooth indeed.
That soldered mod looks good by the way.
:D Chock
Chock, thats exactly what i had in mind for adding weld seams.
The plan is to mask off the new seams with tamiya masking tape then apply the liquid poly.Once softened the plastic can be lightly textured with my special 'add weld seams tool' Ok, an old scalpel blade!
Your right about welders though, the ones at work (Network Rail) are quite particular about thier welds, that's when they are'nt spilling Thermic all over creation!!
Sav.
Thats another way Chock , sounds good. I chose the solder method due to simplicity.
Savvy - im using Image Shack (http://imageshack.us/) for hosting my pictures , but there are other places where you can host your snaps.
Whatever the hell those wires actually do, as long as you put them on your model in the right place, then I guess it will be correct even if we don't know what the hell their purpose is.
Hi guys, I am new in this forum, this U-boat is my favourite. I have checked in "The Type VII U-Boat anatomy of the ship" and the wire description is: Fore hydroplane tensioner. I recommended this book, because all the information and details included, with different versions and all internal and deck arrangements. I have plans to start my model next year.
All the best .:up:
Nice one Sabalo. So you were right after all Savvy, they evidently are bracing wires, cheers for the info Sabalo, and welcome to Subsim too.
:D Chock
nikimcbee
11-08-07, 02:31 AM
Amazon has this model on sale for around $50:up: . I'd buy ot, but I don't have any room for it.:damn:
Work on surfaces goes on , despite lack of new pictures.
This is the most time consuming part of project , and one im not going to rush. I know the satisfaction when you get everything spot on , and disapointment when you dont.
The welds on one side are done. Next is the other side of the hull , followed by shaping of the tanks to give ripple impression.
I`ll keep you posted.
TBC...
*considering the size of the model i just invested hard earned 100£ in new compressor./happy/
**Savvy -how`s your build?
Siara,
Still scraping away at the hull:doh: Port sides nearly finished, starboard side, no where near:o Still waiting on the POSTMAN:stare: to deliver the decks and CMK upgrade.
Good for you on your new compressor, mine has seen better day's but still chug's away when needed. On the subject of Airbrushes 'n' stuff, i'm going to do all my weathering with pastel's and oil's as it worked so well on my Fine Molds Falcon.
Later,
Sav.
Good tip for weathering: get a set of watercolour pencils (i.e. colouring pencils that are water soluble, find them in artist's material shops)
You can use them in a number of ways; First, you can lightly draw with them on your pristine paint for a rough effect, second you can do the first one and them adjust the effect by using a sable brush dipped in water, third, you can scrape small chips of the coloured pencil onto a saucer with a scalpel and mix it with water to get some watercolour paint, and it is a very flexible way to mix the right colour. The advantage of all this, is that if you don't like what you've done, it will wash off. Fix it by using spray fixer, or if you are cheap, hairspray will work too (use it lightly or you'll get a satin sheen, which you may not want). Try it on something scrap first to check the technique out, but I think you'll like it, much easier than pastels, and easier to correct too.
:D Chock
Spot on there Chock,
I use these pencils for a lot of my artwork, they really are very good:up:
If your going to use them for weathering ya gonna have to add a TINY bit of Fairy liquid, this will help break the surface tension of the water thus making them easier to apply.
Sav.
The main flood area was cut open , ready for slats.
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/3900/9898988989pp5.th.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=9898988989pp5.jpg)
Carefuly grinding from inside of the hull using Dremel , its probably easiest bit of mechanical job on the model. I think the end result its well worth the effort.
Im thinking about cuting away the thin strip just top of opening , in order to better the top of the saddle tanks.
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/4485/98997997jc4.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=98997997jc4.jpg)
Work on improving saddle tanks has started.
Using Chocks drawing i managed to locate internal ribbing. It is only my interpretation and under any circumstances should be copied as acurate.
It`s hard to be sure of the location of the ribs , as the area rearly got damaged enough to give us the true picture.
And due to boats spending majority of time being submerged , the picture evidence is scarce.
Now i need scrape away between the ribs slightly / similar to sides of the hull / but not as deep. The saddle tanks never had as much ripple , more like dents and knocks.
TBC...
*Thats what i got Savvy:
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/2193/img1059yj4.th.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1059yj4.jpg)
Its criminal , but the choping started. :hmm:
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/2116/75959os8.th.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/my.php?image=75959os8.jpg)
TBC...
Bill Nichols
11-09-07, 07:13 AM
Its criminal , but the choping started. :hmm:
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/2116/75959os8.th.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/my.php?image=75959os8.jpg)
TBC...
I don't understand what you're doing in this photo (more precisely, why and what are your intentions?)
I'm following this thread closely, as I have a couple of boats of my own to build. I love these 'watch me build it' postings and it's great to have one here at Subsim.
:up:
nikimcbee
11-09-07, 07:20 AM
How hard would it be to convert this model to R/C? Even just a surface modal would be cool.:hmm:
HunterICX
11-09-07, 07:22 AM
:D so much stuff done..and still a long way to go
keep it up guys, I like to see the progess step by step :up:
How hard would it be to convert this model to R/C? Even just a surface modal would be cool.:hmm:
It's hard... but not impossible. I'm working on one, if you want more info PM me, but let's not hijack a good static model thread.
Its criminal , but the choping started. :hmm:
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/2116/75959os8.th.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/my.php?image=75959os8.jpg)
TBC...
I don't understand what you're doing in this photo (more precisely, why and what are your intentions?)
I'm following this thread closely, as I have a couple of boats of my own to build. I love these 'watch me build it' postings and it's great to have one here at Subsim.
:up:
In order to do work on top of the tanks its better to cut the strips of .
When you open the main flood area , you end up with one long slot on the side of the ship. When looking thru this hole you can see everything inside the ship.
What im intending to do is to extend the tanks inside the hul - giving it the 3D effect.
First of all i need to get the inner hul , to check how much room im given to play with.
The parts are in the post , and that stoping me from doing the lower flood holes aswell.
Hopefuly i get the delivery soon.
Hope it helps Bill Nichols.
TBC...
TteFAboB
11-09-07, 03:42 PM
Bill, he's lying. He wants to cut the boat in pieces just so he can glue it all back together again and feel a greater sense of accomplishment: "Behold, mortals! I have built this entire VIIC from scratch, rivet by rivety, plate by plate! Now all I need is a lightning to bring the crew to life! This will be the ultimate midget submarine! Muwahahahahaha!"
Bill - you can see from that angle better , when looking along the open slot the line where tank ends inside the hul. It abruptly ends and ruins the whole effect of open floodholes. Another thing is the slats / im planning on adding them / need some kind of support-otherwise you end up with the deck hunging in thin air.
http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/7056/656578eb0.th.jpg (http://img124.imageshack.us/my.php?image=656578eb0.jpg)
Edit:
Ive made couple of drawings in paint to demonstrate better what i had in mind.
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/5823/szkicko8.th.jpg (http://img223.imageshack.us/my.php?image=szkicko8.jpg)
http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/5769/szkic2uv2.th.jpg (http://img160.imageshack.us/my.php?image=szkic2uv2.jpg)
TBC...
Hi Bill go here http://www.rokket.biz/models/modelsweb/rokket/u557/prog7.shtml
Siara,
Hope i'm not treading on your toes by posting the link above, it's well worth a visit if you have not seen it. Whilst ya there take a look at the pdf for U-Boat colours, helped me out loads:rock:
I'm still waiting for the POSTMAN:stare: so far all thats arrived is the Eduard etch, it's really starting to get to me now:damn:
Sav:damn: :stare:
Have i seen it? - NO. Im kidding , course i`ve seen it. That was the inspiration , amongst the others. Whats great about looking at other people models , every modeler does it diferently. One prefers putting emphasis on paintwork , while other likes attention to detail on his gun. The essence is to combine the lot in one.
Onkel Neal
11-10-07, 07:22 PM
Im going to atempt to put together the model of submarine type VIIC by Revell.
The model spent last couple of years on the wardrobe gathering dust , while i was ploughing my way thru aray of unfinished projects from the past :oops:
The reason im writing this post is simple. For one it will provide me with much needed boost , and hopefuly you can help me on some technical problems along the way , as there are some issues with the kit , which need to be corrected.
To be continued...
I love threads like this one, bravo! Posted on the Subsim main page. (http://www.subsim.com/index.php)
Neal
I completeted this model about two years ago (I got one of the first ones). I was impressed with the size of it, and it truly showed me how big these things were, when I compared the length of the hull pieces to my completed Revell B-36 of 1/72nd scale. The B-36 is one huge machine, the U-boat dwarfed it.
The deck gun alone is a little model of really good detail, out the box.
I patterned mine after the U-96 from Das boot. I even made the grey laughing sword fish from this historically based, yet fictional boat.
I used my DVD, and freez frame alot to get the minutest exterior detail, though I must say, the detail of my model will pale in comparison to what this fellow is doing with his.
My model is the centerpiece of my room, it can't be anything else it is so huge. It will however be dwarfed by my yet to be completed 1/72 scale Gato class boat. It is half as long if not more than the "little" type VII.
Yup, that's the thing which struck me when I toured U-534, the Type IX, before, sadly, it was closed to the public.
You only really ever see pictures of guys on the sub's deck when it is tied up at the dock with most of it underwater, so you don't really appreciate the scale. Sure it is pretty cramped inside, but when you walk up to one on land, it's a real shock how big the bloody things were.
The other thing that stikes you is how graceful they look, almost like a creature rather than a machine, which I supose is what they are trying to emulate in being like a whale or something. The curve of the fixed part of the bowplanes really does look like a big sea creature's fin when you walk under it, it's a really beautiful organic shape.
Of course now they are cutting up U-534, that experience will be gone forever, and I'm having a hard time forgiving them for that, so it's nice to see all these models taking shape.
:D Chock
The General
11-11-07, 05:42 AM
Absoloutely stunning work gentleman. Those black & white photos posted earlier by Chock really show what a beautifully designed boat the type VII was. Thanks.:up:
Thanks guys , comments like this make all the drilling and scraping worthwhile. :up:
When I read U-534 was going to be a museum, but they were going to cut the ship into sections, I was livid. I think this is one of the dummest ways of displaying any ship, car, or plane. I really dislike "nose" displays at museums that are becomming more and more common. This is where due to lack of space, the nose with the cockpit is cut off, the rest of the plane stored or scrapped, and the flight deck being made accesible. This was the original idea for the Enola gay, till much protesting was heard, and now the entire ship is on display...like it should be.
Cutting this one of a kind boat up I think is the stupidest thing they can do. They should have gotten the props crew from DAS BOOT to restore the thing inside and out, and left the thing intact.
This museum's move I think is a captitol crime.
You may have seen this already, but Japanese guy (I think) posted a video on Utube of him building a Revell Uboat model. IMO he shows some nice weathering techniques. Check the link below or just search on Uboat at utube. Good luck with your model.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTnjcxeqqu8
While im still sorting out the hull , id like to ask You Chock another question.
What are the 2 small outlets on the side of the ship?
In the Revell model the position of the thing is wrong /much to low , and to much forward /.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/5785/thingsyq7.jpg
Do You have better picture of it please?
TBC...
Hi Siara, I have been looking in all my books, and there is not explanation about those outlets. Maybe those are some kind of GHG (Gruppenhorchgerat) Group Listening Apparatus, or passive sound device.
I will continue my search :up:
Regards
Sabalo
Siara,
I let Chock help you out with your Question above.
Just thought you might like to know that the POSTMAN:stare: paid a visit today and dropped off the CMK kit:lol: This really is of a very high standard:up:
Anyhoo i've made a start on the 88 (A break was needed from the scraping!!) and will post pictures in my own thread later this week. All i need now are the deck's and i'll be cooking on gas for sure:rock:
Sav.
Okay, from the pics I looked at, they appear to be raised bulges, almost like a back-to-front venturi fairing on an aircraft (see inset zoomed in view I have added to the pic). This is U-1060 prior to launching. You may be able to determine their purpose from the attached diagram which shows the location of the stuff inside the sub, my guess is something to do with water induction or compressed air on the forward trim tank, with possibly an outlet to the rear, maybe an intake for use during a torpedo launch to keep the boat in trim after losing the weight of the torpedo, as it is right above the torpedo compensating tanks. I included the back part of the drawing simply because you may find it useful.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/VII3.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/VII1.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/VII2.jpg
Still looking for a better picture.
:D Chock
Thanks Chock.
It looks like the shape of the "thingy" is good on the model , so just the position needs to be adjusted slightly.
jpkoral
11-13-07, 09:30 AM
Just purchased the kit on EBay to go along with my 1-72 US Fleet Sub. Was checking on aftermarket parts...photoetched.....and doing general research before beginning. The Eduard parts look great. There are also photoetched parts at whiteensignmodels.com and some nice photos of a completed model at hsgalleries.com.
Nice one (again) on the photo Chock,
One thing i did notice in the photo and you have to look quite hard to spot it......
that anchor!!.......I think Revell got this part of the boat very wrong indeed, the one in my kit is tiny!!!:rotfl:
Sav.
I doubt that's the intended anchor for the sub, it's probably one just for the launch. I looks a bit big for a sub.
:D Chock
What a day!....first i nearly lost my job , and now on the return from work i find the parcel from the states. Did not have to check what it was - i knew it was box with my parts!
So now we off and running.
Presure hull by Yankee Modelworks , barells and peryscopes by Shatton Modelbau , figures by Warriors , and the most important of all etch set by White Ensign.
Pressure hull
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/7368/phullhb0.th.jpg (http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phullhb0.jpg)
Etch
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/6049/brassxh9.th.jpg (http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=brassxh9.jpg)
Crew
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/170/crewvj6.th.jpg (http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?image=crewvj6.jpg)
Barrels
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/2149/metallm2.th.jpg (http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?image=metallm2.jpg)
:smug:
TBC...
First up, what do you do for a job?
Second, Why did you nearly lose it?
And Third, You lucky B^$£^&D look at all that stuff:o Brilliant:yep: :up:
Sav.
PS Still no POSTMAN:stare:
Its a long story Savvy. Lets just say i had to deliver bail of hay to middle of Regents streat in London , and things did not go to plan much... :-?
Ok mate enough said.
I've remembered what my photobucket log in and password is so i'll post some pic's
tomorrow....maybe, i'm painting pictures of Rudolph and Santa on the side of the grotto at our local Fire station so i'm a bit busy at the minute:yep:
Sav.
Kpt. Lehmann
11-16-07, 12:53 AM
Great thread Siara and company!:up: :up: :up:
You make me hungry to start working on mine. :yep:
Thank you Kpt. Lehmann.
Thats what i thought when i opened this thread. I like looking at other people models as much as the next man , and hopefuly we can see few more projects in this room.
Unfortunately i have to put the brakes on my project for two weeks due to trip to Poland tomorow. Because of the size of the model i can not take it with me , and i dont think customs would understand - and probably treat it as the weapon. :lol:
Im back on 01/12 and can not wait to start work again.
See you in couple of weeks guys.
*I`ll be taking the laptop with me so i can read the forum while im away.
**wooden deck is on its way
Nice to see you guys building this boat. The one I built is RC. Dives, surfaces and runs great. There is a kit coming out soon that will allow you to easily RC this boat plus many others on the market. Although most of my boats are scratch built I love to convert these history makers to RC. Why not? Now you have a nice static model while not in use and a fully functioning boat too.
If you want to learn more about radio controlled submarines visit www.subpirates.com (http://www.subpirates.com)
Great job on the build guys. I love this site!
Steve Neill AKA U812
Another couple of days and i should be back in London to comence the build guys.
At the moment im on my dads computer and just managed to make it internet worth.
Im back on saturday 01/12.
Cheerio. :rock:
PS: If you travel to east of europe take warm clothes with you- here its minus 3 celsius and 10 inches of snow.
Fantastic work, Siara!:up:
Makes me feel motivated to stop procrastinating and get to work on the 1/144th scale Type VIID I have in the stash!:yep:
Bort - ive started work on 1/144 VIID months ago - and when i finaly set my eyes on the 1/72 im building now , there was no comparison.
The 1/72 is superior in every department , and the size of the boat is overwhelming. The 1/144 must wait. Problem is i dont know if its ever going to be finished as Revell just released the VIIB in the same scale , and detail is good if not very good.
There is plans to make the type II in 1/72 so the plans might change soon.
I hope you going to make your own thread in this forum about Your build - just like Savvy , and Chock did.
Lets keep`em coming....:up:
Old Dog
12-04-07, 11:08 PM
I am enjoying this thread very much. I just looked on Amazon and there are two different type VII models available, a VII C/41 and a VII C. The VII C/41 has a few more pieces. The prices are very similar, the numbers of models on hand are few.
At any rate, this thread is a real joy. I also went looking on some of the "side trips" that have been mentioned here. and thoroughly enjoyed the acount of the assembly related here:
http://www.rokket.biz/models/modelsweb/rokket/u557/index.shtml
Good going folks. I wish you "fair winds and a following sea".
Old Dog
Even tho it looks like nothing is happening in the "shipyard" , im working at the project still. Ive just contacted the guy making all sorts of decals for train scale toys about possibility of making the waterline decals for my boat.
U-boats had 6 sets of numbers on both sides of the hull for trimming.
Eric Ethridge from E.L.S Trains agreed to make such decals to scale but will require the foto.
Is anyone in possesion of any picture of waterline markings of U-boat?
I have one picture , but is not clear , and i dont know how accurate the decals r going to look.
Also Eric mentioned that if someone is building the same model and decides on buying the decals , production cost can be cut down /Eric wrote:"The artwork charge will be $15.00 for six decals you requested in white. $10.00 to make the decal set with the six different decals. Total is $15.00 plus $10.00 = $25.00 Additional sets are only the $10.00 per set charge."/
Let me know if you like the set of decals slightly cheaper.
PS:I took a lot of snaps during my recent holiday but this one takes some beating . Its quiet hard to take snap like like that these days , due to obvious security issues...
http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/4908/img0072yw4.th.jpg (http://img394.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0072yw4.jpg)
If you have a photo editing program and a few decent typfaces, you could create the decals yourself, just get some blank waterslide paper and print them on it. I've done that a few times in the past, you can get the paper here (and lots of other places too):
http://www.beldecal.com/model_decals.cfm
I'll have a look for a decent photo of the markings.
:D Chock
Old Dog
12-05-07, 10:56 PM
Hi Siara,
Last night I spotted what might be the photos you need in the "Progress" postings on rokket.biz.
One of his pages shows the waterline decals and placement:
http://www.rokket.biz/models/modelsweb/rokket/u557/ubrass.shtml
What I think you're looking for is at the bottom of the page.
Good Luck Man,
Old Dog
Dutchie-one
12-07-07, 05:18 PM
:nope: Hello Mate s I have recieved the wooden deck parts from Nautulis but not the resin parts are they not included ?
I think without them I can not use the wooden deck part ?
Thanks, Dutchie-one :nope:
Castout
12-07-07, 08:51 PM
Amazon has this model on sale for around $50:up: . I'd buy ot, but I don't have any room for it.:damn:
Put it on the wall on some shelf:up:.
Dutchie-one , you need to order the resin inner pressure hull seperately.
I posted the link to you by PM.:up:
I got myself together slowly to work again.
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/3069/holes004kl6.th.jpg (http://img62.imageshack.us/my.php?image=holes004kl6.jpg)
Fixed template in place of new - paired style floodholes.
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/9717/holes006qx9.th.jpg (http://img145.imageshack.us/my.php?image=holes006qx9.jpg)
First i used 0,95 mm drillbit , and than 1 mm. You can see how much diference is there between the Revell and new holes. The original holes being much to large and displaced forward.
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/367/holes010el5.th.jpg (http://img62.imageshack.us/my.php?image=holes010el5.jpg)
Thinning on inside kept to minimum due to filling of Revell holes.
TBC...
Edit:
I nearly forgot , Big thank you Old Dog , and Chock.
Test fitting the torp doors.
Its a tricky part.
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/9004/holes004wj0.th.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/my.php?image=holes004wj0.jpg)
TBC...
I decided to cut away the middle section between torpedo doors.
Than marking the silouette of the PE part on the model i cut the needles plastic away leaving 2-3 mm edge as support.
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/6986/blaszka005ek9.th.jpg (http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszka005ek9.jpg)
...most feared part of the build is actualy not that bad at all. The PE takes a lot of shaping , but with plenty of time and patience the results are good.
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/8476/blaszka001ia0.th.jpg (http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszka001ia0.jpg)
...now it should sit in the groove neatly.
[/URL]
[URL=http://img123.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszka006lb3.jpg]http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/9383/blaszka006lb3.th.jpg (http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszka006vn3.jpg)
:lol:
TBC...
Old Dog
12-13-07, 10:18 PM
Bravo Siara,
Nice job.
Old Dog
Thank you Old Dog.
I added additional support inside the hull.
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/8154/blaszka007iw3.th.jpg (http://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszka007iw3.jpg)
...and than i fixed another styrine strip just to be on the safe side.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/5638/blaszka008pb6.th.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszka008pb6.jpg)
TBC...
The floodholes just below the bullnose were filled in.
PE set contains the template for drilling new holes of correct shape.
I decided not to drill , instead i managed to cut out part of unused VIIB doors , as it has correct size and shape holes. The template is going to be used on port side , as 3 holes are required.
The starboard side has only 2 holes on 552.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7280/blaszka011zs8.th.jpg (http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszka011zs8.jpg)
Fixed in the same maner as torpedo doors - with the groove running along the edge for part to fit flash. After sanding the edges should blend in.
TBC...
HunterICX
12-14-07, 09:58 AM
:up: The amount of details is stunning!:o
keep it up
HunterICX
Thank you Hunter ICX for kind words.;)
Preliminary sanding before i airbrush the lot to pick up all the imperfections.
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/2896/blaszka013rl4.th.jpg (http://img218.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszka013rl4.jpg)
http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/4808/blaszka012bx1.th.jpg (http://img129.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszka012bx1.jpg)
TBC...
Revell 74 MAT airbrushed on
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2894/blaszka019po6.th.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszka019po6.jpg)
...it looks decent , but against strong artificial light is a diferent story...
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/452/blaszka015hx6.th.jpg (http://img207.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszka015hx6.jpg)
...back to filling and sanding.
TBC...
Looks pretty good so far. Here's a handy tip for sanding stuff smooth by the way; when you think it it pretty smooth, rub the part gently across your top lip, it's easy to pick up imperfections that way, as the lips are incredibly sensitive and can pick up miniscule bumps.
:D Chock
Old Dog
12-15-07, 11:04 PM
Hope that you're saving your photos and narrative. They are as thorough and painstaking as your assembly efforts.
Old Dog
Thanks Old Dog.
Anchor well needs to be moved 7mm forward.
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/8909/blaszkase4.th.jpg (http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszkase4.jpg)
It was a bit to deep , and after cuting it out i skimmed the edge about 1 mm on the sheet of 600 grade sandpaper.
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/3962/kotwica001zx2.th.jpg (http://img180.imageshack.us/my.php?image=kotwica001zx2.jpg)
...anchor well in place...
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/822/kotwica002la1.th.jpg (http://img180.imageshack.us/my.php?image=kotwica002la1.jpg)
...backing from styrene...
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/9976/kotwica003io5.th.jpg (http://img47.imageshack.us/my.php?image=kotwica003io5.jpg)
...now simple task of filling the gap.
TBC...
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/6100/kotwica004vi8.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=kotwica004vi8.jpg)
Putting the final touches on the textures just abowe torp doors. Sandpaper grade 600 , than 800 , and finaly 1500 used to create the oil canning.
After sanding the perimiter of the anchor well the thin bumper strip needs to be custom made to replace the one i`ve destroyed during the sanding process.It was deliberate action as it helps sanding and getting the correct shape of things in this area.
Pencil lines for the rivets / i knew the time for rivets has to come one day :shifty: /
TBC...
Looking good Siara, What are you going to do the rivets with?
:D Chock
Chock - the tool for rivets:
http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/941/kotwica006ua0.th.jpg (http://img264.imageshack.us/my.php?image=kotwica006ua0.jpg)
Bought from the hardware shop for 1.50£ each.
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/341/kotwica008wf0.th.jpg (http://img262.imageshack.us/my.php?image=kotwica008wf0.jpg)
The tip is drilled in the shape of bowl.
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/5019/woodendeck003qz0.th.jpg (http://img90.imageshack.us/my.php?image=woodendeck003qz0.jpg)
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/2639/woodendeck001mc4.th.jpg (http://img142.imageshack.us/my.php?image=woodendeck001mc4.jpg)
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/974/woodendeck004xl7.th.jpg (http://img142.imageshack.us/my.php?image=woodendeck004xl7.jpg)
Today ive taken the delivery of wooden deck.
Not only the price was good , and delivery swift - but to my surprise included was the future release wooden deck in 1-144 scale for the upcomming Revell VIIC:up:.
As you can see the detail is good as expected.
The resin hatches were in the set , but the bollards are no longer included.
Neverthe less it is perfect addition to the kit.
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/7141/woodendeckjj5.th.jpg (http://img258.imageshack.us/my.php?image=woodendeckjj5.jpg)
The bumper strips under construction.
TBC...
Edit: Note the typo on the 1-144 scale deck - it says for 1-72 model.
Hi Siara,
I have a set of the bollards if you need them mate, i'm not using them on U-69.
Sav.
Great - thanks Savvy. PM sent.
Reworked anchor well.
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/8093/woodendeckmy3.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=woodendeckmy3.jpg)
Rest of the bumpers in place
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/3600/bumpers004xv2.th.jpg (http://img518.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bumpers004xv2.jpg)
TBC...
Not a problem Siara,
I'll get them posted off today.
Progress is slow but good, i've applied all the etch to the wooden decks, very time consuming. Also started on the conning tower. Had no time to take pix, maybe later today.
Sav.
Me again,
Just been out and posted them, let me know if you get them ok.
Sav.
Thank you Savvy.
The rivets.
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/2155/rivets001uk5.th.jpg (http://img136.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rivets001uk5.jpg)http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/2671/rivets002vc5.th.jpg (http://img142.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rivets002vc5.jpg)http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/1470/rivets003fi8.th.jpg (http://img179.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rivets003fi8.jpg)
TBC...
The microphone aray around planes.
As i scraped most of original ones during sanding i had come up with replacement brass rod microphones.
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/8238/ghg001io1.th.jpg (http://img210.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ghg001io1.jpg)http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/6205/ghg002hk5.th.jpg (http://img176.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ghg002hk5.jpg)
I left 1mm of rod sticking out. After the paint is aplied i will sand the ends of the rods to expose brass.
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/6471/brassrodaq4.th.png (http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=brassrodaq4.png)
TBC...
Whole aray in place. Added extra one to make 24 each side.
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/9569/ghg003bt1.th.jpg (http://img341.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ghg003bt1.jpg)http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/6374/ghg005bg2.th.jpg (http://img341.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ghg005bg2.jpg)
After the glue set in i was able to file them to more realistic length.
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4844/ghg006fn8.th.jpg (http://img299.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ghg006fn8.jpg)http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/7310/ghg007ux7.th.jpg (http://img299.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ghg007ux7.jpg)
TBC...
Finished GHG ready for painting.
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/807/ghg002cs0.th.jpg (http://img175.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ghg002cs0.jpg)
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/3933/ghg003vl2.th.jpg (http://img211.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ghg003vl2.jpg)
Custom GHG against original.
TBC...
Hydrophones on port side:
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/4045/ghg019el8.th.jpg (http://img176.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ghg019el8.jpg)
Mirror image of starboard side. Again number of microphones is 24 instead of 23.:
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/3269/ghg016fs7.th.jpg (http://img293.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ghg016fs7.jpg)http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/639/ghg017sl8.th.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ghg017sl8.jpg)
One day , i actualy might join the two halves of the hull together...;)
TBC...
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/8383/bulges001zd0.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bulges001zd0.jpg)
The bumps i was asking about aerlier. Guided by many photos i decided to move them. They appear to be in wrong place.
Made new bumps out of 2,25mm x 5,25mm block of steryne:
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/2057/bulges005su8.th.jpg (http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bulges005su8.jpg)
Job done:
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/3136/bulges012zs5.th.jpg (http://img166.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bulges012zs5.jpg)
TBC...
Drip channel. It is missing on the model.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/1977/dripchannel018vy3.th.jpg (http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannel018vy3.jpg)
Drainage holes were drilled /0.8mm/ and styrene strips formed the channel like drain.
On close inspection you can see the detail of the drip:
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/7700/dripchannel012iz8.th.jpg (http://img179.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannel012iz8.jpg)
Its taken me most part of today to figure out how to make this bit.
TBC...
Port drip channel.
I thought this channel will be easier to make , because i had it figured out how to produce one. How wrong was i...
It actualy was more timeconsuming bringing the portside to match up with starboard side.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8762/dripchannel001pm0.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannel001pm0.jpg)http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/3728/dripchannel002sn3.th.jpg (http://img167.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannel002sn3.jpg)http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/4332/dripchannel003ql3.th.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannel003ql3.jpg)http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6071/dripchannel004ez3.th.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannel004ez3.jpg)
Theres two more of them to make.:-?
TBC...
The 3 vents behind the saddle tanks:
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/9725/3vents001ij2.th.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3vents001ij2.jpg)http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/2145/3vents002wa4.th.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3vents002wa4.jpg)http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/856/3vents003jm6.th.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3vents003jm6.jpg)http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/3272/3vents004af4.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3vents004af4.jpg)http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/7677/3vents005mg8.th.jpg (http://img512.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3vents005mg8.jpg)
TBC...
Bored with the hull works i started work on torpedo.
One of the torpedo doors will be open with just about 1 cm of warhead showing.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/9862/torp001jt8.th.jpg (http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp001jt8.jpg)
12 disc have been cut from 1mm styrene , and glued together.
After the glue set i drilled the 1mm hole thrue the center in order to insert it in dremell for sanding.
Because dremell tool reaches the fast speeds even on lowest settings i transfered the warhead to hand drill for fine sanding.
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/8137/torp002ip5.th.jpg (http://img509.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp002ip5.jpg)http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/7863/torp003oz4.th.jpg (http://img409.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp003oz4.jpg)
I tried wood for that purpose , but because of grain its hard to get the desired texture.
Now to piston.
TBC...
work on torp goes on.
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/4461/torp004nv2.th.jpg (http://img72.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp004nv2.jpg)http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/9435/torp005dw6.th.jpg (http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp005dw6.jpg)http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/1016/torp006qm8.th.jpg (http://img159.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp006qm8.jpg)http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/6241/torp008fs1.th.jpg (http://img159.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp008fs1.jpg)http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1672/torp012sy4.th.jpg (http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp012sy4.jpg)http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/7494/torp014hs2.th.jpg (http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp014hs2.jpg)
Lick of gold paint now and it can wait till the hull is done.:smug:
TBC...
Torp tip painted gold:
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/9628/torp015kt8.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp015kt8.jpg)
...and with weathering representing grime and grease:
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/5486/torp016fk2.th.jpg (http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp016fk2.jpg)http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7117/torp017rs8.th.jpg (http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp017rs8.jpg)
Im happy with the way it turned out to be , minor cleaning of excess paint is required on the whiskers.
TBC...
Bill Nichols
01-03-08, 06:32 AM
Very very nice. You and Chock (in the Alanger Project 971 thread) are opening my eyes to a whole new level of model making.
:up:
Thank you very much Bill.
:yep:
Sad person i am , i riped the torpedo apart after studying the digital photos of her.
Naked aye did not pick all that imperfections at the first glance.
I decided to rebuild it - i knew i can do better.
I left the warhead - was happy with it.
Added new turned piston:
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/4486/torp022xj6.th.jpg (http://img146.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp022xj6.jpg)
brand new whiskers - changed the wire from steel to copper. Im leaving it unpainted.
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/9633/torp023wb0.th.jpg (http://img146.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp023wb0.jpg)
the spiner was cut from PE leftovers , thined to about half its thikness:
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/2275/torp025wj6.th.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp025wj6.jpg)
brass tip was added to complete the job:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2805/torp027ky7.th.jpg (http://img171.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp027ky7.jpg)http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/8760/torp029pr6.th.jpg (http://img146.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torp029pr6.jpg)
Hope you dont mind me going on about that bloody torpedo so much ;)
I promisse thats the last you gonna see of her-allmost...
TBC...
Two remaining drip channels completed:
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/6617/dripchannel001vj1.th.jpg (http://img120.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannel001vj1.jpg)http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/3994/dripchannel002ry5.th.jpg (http://img295.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannel002ry5.jpg)http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/571/dripchannel003zg7.th.jpg (http://img295.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannel003zg7.jpg)http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/7470/dripchannel004oi7.th.jpg (http://img295.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannel004oi7.jpg)
TBC...
Not much hapening in the doks at the moment , im still awaiting rest of PE for the flooding holes , so can not progress as quick as i would have liked.
I have been working / not to hard / on finishing the drip channels , just to kill the waiting time.
Decided to add the welds underneath the channels.
Looking at the fotos i think thats how the channels were originaly mounted to the hull.
Going by Chock`s idea of the weld , the streatched sprue was glued to the underside of each channel.
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/628/dripchannelweld001pn5.th.jpghttp://img244.imageshack.us/img244/5264/dripchannelweld003yt4.th.jpg (http://img244.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannelweld003yt4.jpg)http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/3613/dripchannelweld002mt8.th.jpg (http://img244.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dripchannelweld002mt8.jpg)
The glue should soften the plastic , allowing me to impress weld like seams with the tip of the craft knife.
Well see...:hmm:
TBC...
Well done build! Looking beaut! :DI never thought to look here for build stuff, just gaming. The folks over at Modelwarships.com and modelshipwrights.com should really see this stuff, post a link!
Whoa! the master visited the thread. :up:
I wasnt sure if i can post the link to Your build Rokket , which i stated on many occasions was the inspiration to my build.
Welcome to subsim.:rock:
Rest of the PE just arrived thanks to excellent service from Models by Mickster.:up:
http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/618/pe004wr7.th.jpg (http://img50.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pe004wr7.jpg)
PE by Modelbrass with long awaited flood holes.
http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/3158/pe002yr0.th.jpg (http://img244.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pe002yr0.jpg)
...and White Ensign Models PE. /just brilliant /
TBC...:cool:
Flood holes uunder the dive planes:
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/6352/blaszki002bt5.th.jpg (http://img340.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszki002bt5.jpg)
marked the position with the pencil.
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/5474/blaszki006up8.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszki006up8.jpg)
20 minutes of dremel work , followed by file.
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/9140/blaszki005yx2.th.jpg (http://img246.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszki005yx2.jpg)
PE - it looks like straight forward job with easy shaping.
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/8773/blaszki008hx4.th.jpg (http://img185.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszki008hx4.jpg)
"Dry" fit. Even without the glue it sits allmost perfect.
TBC...
ajrimmer42
01-15-08, 11:29 AM
wow, lookin good! I could never be bothered to get detailing sets for my models, I just make do with what comes in the box! lol. keep up the good work! :up:
Thanks ajrimmer42.
I was just like You with models , than looking at pictures of other people models , suddenly mine wasnt all that prety. Few fireworks , box of matches and there was model no more.:lol:
The tins were glued today and is nice and snug.
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6450/blaszki012yg8.th.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszki012yg8.jpg)http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/622/blaszki011mf8.th.jpg (http://img220.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blaszki011mf8.jpg)
TBC...
Very neat mate,
I really don't know what would be more of a pain, thinning the hull to within an inch of it's life so i could use the vents provided by Revell, or going down the more destructive but far more accurate road that you have done here. I guess it all depends on what you are prepared to live with?!
Sav.
Savvy - fitting the PE its easy , and painless. The effect You get with one of them sets its realy realy good. For one You end up with more accurate holes /shape and size /, and for two , it takes away the pain of thinning - as the only thinning its done on the edges of the part. Roughly 1 mm of overlap is enough to safely secure the part with glue.
What i do is i mark where the part supose to go on the model , than i cut away all the inside with the dremel to about 1mm from the edge. Than delicate scraping of the edge with the craft knife to the thikness of the PE.
Slow setting CA glue , filler , sanding , filler , sanding -done.
I always said this project is going to take months to complete , and im happy with it. Instead of making few average models i just decided ill try to make one , but one i can look at with pride.
BTW: ive been playing with the blogs this morning and created this:
http://u-552.blogspot.com/
Let me know what You think?
Hello mate,
Liking the Blog alot, very good photo's and very well laid out. It was photo's of aftermarket goodies like this that made my mind up as to buy or not to buy. :up:
All the best
Sav.
bert8for3
01-16-08, 07:37 PM
@Siara, just want to say if I may that I came across this thread a month ago and have been following it since, likewise Savvy's, it's amazing what you're doing and fascinating to follow it detail by detail.
@Siara, just want to say if I may that I came across this thread a month ago and have been following it since, likewise Savvy's, it's amazing what you're doing and fascinating to follow it detail by detail.
Thank You for kind words ber8for3 :D
Wow Siara! I am returning after a long time out of this forum, I thought that I knew enough to start my Uboat, but I am going to wait for your work, you are my leader pal, what a work are you doing!!
Wow Siara! I am returning after a long time out of this forum, I thought that I knew enough to start my Uboat, but I am going to wait for your work, you are my leader pal, what a work are you doing!!
Thank You ;)
Remember the trouble i had with reference regarding the waterline triming marks?
Im happy to say my search is over.
Fellow subsimer Rokket had the spare set of decals , which he and his friend Doughie Martindale created for use on his model of U-557.
http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/5752/waterlinedecals005pj8.th.jpg (http://img264.imageshack.us/my.php?image=waterlinedecals005pj8.jpg)
And who knows more about the U-boats than Doughie? As we all know the extensive research he performed for flood hole patterns , and the paint types of kriegsmarine.
Not only that , from february everyone can get the set of them marvels for excellent price of 6 US$.
Decals will be available from Rokket`s page - HERE (http://www.rokket.biz/models/modelsweb/rokket/index.shtml/)
Keep checking it for updates.
Excellent news on the trim markings, i've been searching the world for these bloody things! :up:
Sav.
Continuing the flood holes replacement - stern holes.
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/7753/floodholes3ly5.th.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/my.php?image=floodholes3ly5.jpg)http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/4834/floodholes3003xb5.th.jpg (http://img401.imageshack.us/my.php?image=floodholes3003xb5.jpg)http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/2716/floodholes3004yx3.th.jpg (http://img266.imageshack.us/my.php?image=floodholes3004yx3.jpg)http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/1512/floodholes3008am4.th.jpg (http://img258.imageshack.us/my.php?image=floodholes3008am4.jpg)
Filling the gaps and sanding is required. The part is tricky to fit.
TBC...
-SWCowboy.
01-19-08, 06:09 PM
I just found this kit today at a hobby store, my wife's not letting me work on it until I finish the F/A-18F I bought yesterday. Tonight I think I'll sneak out once she's asleep and see what's what - I got intrigued when I saw this thread, your work looks astounding!
I'm debating whether or not to cut out the holes on the hull. It makes sense to do it but I have to find my fine-point knives. Also getting ideas to motorize it as well but that'll wait.
For my paint job I've been thinking of giving her a red hull with a light weathered grey look but that's far off in the distance... Ohh the possibilities :hmm:
Looking forward to seeing more of your progress Siara!!
Looking forward to seeing more of your progress Siara!!
Thank You.
Stern flood holes sanded down and finished.
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/9609/u552001ue6.th.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/my.php?image=u552001ue6.jpg)
I need to create the bumper strip just abowe it - i cut it away for filling and sanding the PE part.
Due to the PE flood holes having realy small edge /space between holes and the actual edge of the PE/ and thikness of kit plastic in the area of the asembly , some plastic needs to be skimmed on inside to prevent it showing when wieved from diferent angles from outside of the hull.
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/3559/u552003fy5.th.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/my.php?image=u552003fy5.jpg)
I left that task for when everything else is done , because after that operation the kit becomes very fragile here , and could cause lot of problems and warping if done diferently.
TBC...
Nice job mate,
Where ya been? I thought you had done a bunk!
Big day today on mine, She now has paint on the hull!! :o
Sav.
Thats good going mate , i cant wait till mine is all done up ready for furnishing.
Hopefuly in about a week or so i should have the hull on bolts , fixed to the wood.
Hope You posting the pics today :up:
PS: I was away from docks for couple of days , because taxman has the hounting season now...and i hated my medic avatar.:lol:
With hull work near completion i had to come up with the stand. The kit offer ugly little stand , so i decided to mount it on brass and wood.
I`ve drilled two holes in the bottom of the hull in place of kit mounts.
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/5848/u552stand002eo6.th.jpg (http://img529.imageshack.us/my.php?image=u552stand002eo6.jpg)
The nut wasnt enough to offer enough torque strength , and the fit was a little loose.
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/9311/u552stand003lc6.th.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/my.php?image=u552stand003lc6.jpg)
...so i cut brass sheet slightly bigger than the nut.
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/674/u552stand004mi7.th.jpg (http://img402.imageshack.us/my.php?image=u552stand004mi7.jpg)
...and fixed , bending the sides to hug the nut.
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/9528/u552stand006tu5.th.jpg (http://img259.imageshack.us/my.php?image=u552stand006tu5.jpg)
The fit is much better now. This will stop the nut sliping , and give me more confidence when tightening the stand.
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/7940/u552stand005bj0.th.jpg (http://img142.imageshack.us/my.php?image=u552stand005bj0.jpg)
The bolts will run through the brass knobs /:rotfl:/ and be screwed tight to the wood.
TBC...
Stand - continuation.
Two 4 cm steel tubes form kinda spacer for my "works stand".
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/5331/stand1001th5.th.jpg (http://img402.imageshack.us/my.php?image=stand1001th5.jpg)
and test fit. The bolt is 4 cm longer than the tubes , giving me enough space for fixing to timber.The plank ive chosen its actualy 2.7 cm thick.
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/774/stand1002sm9.th.jpg (http://img186.imageshack.us/my.php?image=stand1002sm9.jpg)
TBC...
Finished stand.
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/9087/stand2002vm0.th.jpg (http://img223.imageshack.us/my.php?image=stand2002vm0.jpg)
TBC...
Flood holes and stern torpedo shoot.
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/6629/torpdoorsstern001aq2.th.jpg (http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpdoorsstern001aq2.jpg)
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/4483/torpdoorsstern002oe9.th.jpg (http://img297.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpdoorsstern002oe9.jpg)
sides were thined.
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/88/torpdoorssternqo4.th.jpg (http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpdoorssternqo4.jpg)
Dremel job...
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/8006/torpdoorsstern004kh7.th.jpg (http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpdoorsstern004kh7.jpg)
TBC...
bert8for3
01-30-08, 09:09 AM
What's the triangular/circular piece in the first two pics, can't figure it out?
What's the triangular/circular piece in the first two pics, can't figure it out?
As the filename suggests, that's the stern torpedo door :yep:
As the filename suggests, that's the stern torpedo door :yep:
Thats right CCIP.:up:
Internal ribs:
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/3626/floodholesribs003jt2.th.jpg (http://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=floodholesribs003jt2.jpg)
More pics in my sig.
bert8for3
01-31-08, 11:03 AM
As the filename suggests, that's the stern torpedo door :yep:
Thats right CCIP.:up:
Internal ribs:
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/3626/floodholesribs003jt2.th.jpg (http://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=floodholesribs003jt2.jpg)
More pics in my sig.
Got it tks. Forgot to look at blog also for more pics. Ribbing looks great.
Ribbing looks great.
Thank You!
More work done in the flood holes department:
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/5679/ribs002lb0.th.jpg (http://img507.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ribs002lb0.jpg)http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/9379/ribs003mc1.th.jpg (http://img507.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ribs003mc1.jpg)
TBC...
Onkel Neal
02-01-08, 11:11 PM
Wow, I saw the U-boat and Gato models today in Hobby Lobby. Man, they are huge!!
They are slightly on the big side Neal :up:
Torpedo bay inerts.
http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/1618/torpedodoors002ex6.th.jpg (http://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpedodoors002ex6.jpg)http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/7486/torpedodoors006aa0.th.jpg (http://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpedodoors006aa0.jpg)http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/8308/torpedodoors007ji0.th.jpg (http://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpedodoors007ji0.jpg)http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/408/torpedodoors009pd5.th.jpg (http://img529.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpedodoors009pd5.jpg)http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/113/torpedodoors011sq2.th.jpg (http://img515.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpedodoors011sq2.jpg)
TBC...
Steel beam , and part of pressure hull visible through the bow flood holes.
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/9652/floodholesbeam001zq2.th.jpg (http://img185.imageshack.us/my.php?image=floodholesbeam001zq2.jpg)http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/7804/floodholesbeam006hl9.th.jpg (http://img91.imageshack.us/my.php?image=floodholesbeam006hl9.jpg)http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/7685/floodholesbeam005mc4.th.jpg (http://img340.imageshack.us/my.php?image=floodholesbeam005mc4.jpg)http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/6554/floodholesbeam001zy6.th.jpg (http://img183.imageshack.us/my.php?image=floodholesbeam001zy6.jpg)
TBC...
Internal structure above the torpedo doors. This is the one that tested my skills to the limit. The PE in the area is 0,4 mm thick - so i could not use the styrene.
Instead i have cut and drilled the PE leftovers.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/8183/toptorpdoors003ie2.th.jpg (http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=toptorpdoors003ie2.jpg)http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/759/toptorpdoors002ii7.th.jpg (http://img519.imageshack.us/my.php?image=toptorpdoors002ii7.jpg)http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/4881/toptorpdoors005wq0.th.jpg (http://img123.imageshack.us/my.php?image=toptorpdoors005wq0.jpg)
Once the cross sections are added it should be durable enough.
TBC...
http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/6881/toptorpdoors002fx4.th.jpg (http://img248.imageshack.us/my.php?image=toptorpdoors002fx4.jpg)http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/8109/toptorpdoors004jh7.th.jpg (http://img248.imageshack.us/my.php?image=toptorpdoors004jh7.jpg)http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/9703/toptorpdoors007kj2.th.jpg (http://img220.imageshack.us/my.php?image=toptorpdoors007kj2.jpg)
TBC...
Doors fited.:smug:
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/900/doors1001iv5.th.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/my.php?image=doors1001iv5.jpg)http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/8877/doors1002en2.th.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/my.php?image=doors1002en2.jpg)http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5631/doors1003lp9.th.jpg (http://img139.imageshack.us/my.php?image=doors1003lp9.jpg)
Was it worth the effort? - you bet your pants it was. Im loving the new doors.
Top doors done in open position.
First i created the hinge for it.
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/4985/toptorpdoor002gy6.th.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=toptorpdoor002gy6.jpg)http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/5688/toptorpdoor004hc8.th.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=toptorpdoor004hc8.jpg)http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/5849/pa100024sa7.th.jpg (http://img260.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pa100024sa7.jpg)
Thanks to Rokket for reference snap.
TBC...
Port side completed.
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/2964/torpfinal004vi7.th.jpg (http://img261.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpfinal004vi7.jpg)
central beam in place
http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/7864/torpfinal003uz6.th.jpg (http://img409.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpfinal003uz6.jpg)
and glance through the holes - everything is in line and proper.:cool:
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/7208/torpfinal009fr1.th.jpg (http://img139.imageshack.us/my.php?image=torpfinal009fr1.jpg)
TBC...
HunterICX
02-08-08, 05:27 AM
:D Ah, its starts to get a shape now :up:
keep up the good work, mate
HunterICX
Vents below the saddle tanks.
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8039/vents002gj2.th.jpg (http://img265.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents002gj2.jpg)
Revells idea of the vent - not much to look at.
http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/9447/vents001nt0.th.jpg (http://img107.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents001nt0.jpg)
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/5250/vents003pj7.th.jpg (http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents003pj7.jpg)
Hole was drilled , and 5mm styrene tube was glued in , with 3mm tube inside it.
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/9559/vents004iz2.th.jpg (http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents004iz2.jpg)
Vent outlet/sort of/:lol:
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7258/vents008kp6.th.jpg (http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents008kp6.jpg)
All in and painted - hard to take picture , but i think You get the idea.
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7403/vents011tp8.th.jpg (http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents011tp8.jpg)
Grill glued in.
TBC...
Another set of grilles - this time slightly smaller than the previous.
http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/508/vents009gk8.th.jpg (http://img238.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents009gk8.jpg)
...and more...
http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/7615/vents005zb1.th.jpg (http://img128.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents005zb1.jpg)http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/7509/vents003si5.th.jpg (http://img128.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents003si5.jpg)http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/4875/vents004gu1.th.jpg (http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents004gu1.jpg)http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/4424/vents006yn6.th.jpg (http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents006yn6.jpg)http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/7475/vents010yq6.th.jpg (http://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents010yq6.jpg)http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/439/vents008wv2.th.jpg (http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents008wv2.jpg)
TBC...
Brackets for the pressure hull.
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/7466/pressurehull001gb8.th.jpg (http://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pressurehull001gb8.jpg)
Pressure hull weights a lot , and due to resins nature of "sinking" the support needs to be beefed up a bit.
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/3970/phull012rm1.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phull012rm1.jpg)
TBC...
2 out of 3 parts in place. The middle bit is goin in after the halves are joined together.
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/9919/phull006ns2.th.jpg (http://img179.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phull006ns2.jpg)
TBC...
I promissed myself ill put her on the temporary stand this weekend.
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/6465/hull002is6.th.jpg (http://img207.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hull002is6.jpg)
...and it just hit me just how huge she was. :o
Both halves joined together , ready for the glue to set. I must say , for all the hull mangling - the fit was spot on. The seam is perfect , the halves just clicked in position. Im gonna crack open the beer to celebrate.
Marriott
02-10-08, 11:30 PM
looking great, cant wait to see the finished boat.
looking great, cant wait to see the finished boat.
Thank You Marriott.
Nuts fixed inside the hull with CA.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/3557/hull001un1.th.jpg (http://img408.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hull001un1.jpg)http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7793/hull002yo3.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hull002yo3.jpg)
Stern torpedo shoot:
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/9969/hull003cg5.th.jpg (http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hull003cg5.jpg)
Few more ribs in the area should improve the appearance.
TBC...
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/1354/hull001qb5.th.jpg (http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hull001qb5.jpg)
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/3541/hull003so1.th.jpg (http://img148.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hull003so1.jpg)
TBC...
Bill Nichols
02-12-08, 06:40 AM
Nuts fixed inside the hull with CA.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/3557/hull001un1.th.jpg (http://img408.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hull001un1.jpg)
I'm concerned those little bolts will give enough support to that huge hull. It seems like any bending forces would be focused and magnified at the bolt, potentially causing damage. If I were doing it, I'd put a lot of reinforcement at the hull in the area where the bolts are located (i.e., add a couple of strengthening bulkheads immediately fore and aft of the bolt).
For my last large ship project (Heller's 1/100 HMS Victory*), I carved a couple of blocks of wood to fit the inner contour of the hull, epoxied them in place, and ran my bolt holes through the blocks.
(* Well, I haven't exactly completed that project, but it's nearly done. Just needs a couple months more work. I've been saying that for the past 8 years... ;) )
Bill i rush to explain.
The hull in the area is 4mm thick and has been reinforced with the strips of styrene. All is set with CA glue. Inside the "cavity" as You can see i have wedged / glued drilled washer made out of brass to stop the nut spining when i tighten the bolt. Underneath i placed the 1,5 cm steel washer between the model and the steel support tube - same as between the wood and steel tube.
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/5871/boltgq8.th.jpg (http://img265.imageshack.us/my.php?image=boltgq8.jpg)
Besides it is only "works bench" for when the work is caried out. For final presentation i have purchased brass knobs ( below ) to give it looks and strength.:up:
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/959/knobsai3.th.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/my.php?image=knobsai3.jpg)
TBC...
Steering pushrods , pulls , and steel beam.
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/5265/sterntorpjg8.th.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sterntorpjg8.jpg)http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/7083/sterntorp002cn9.th.jpg (http://img175.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sterntorp002cn9.jpg)http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/7394/stery003ik9.th.jpg (http://img175.imageshack.us/my.php?image=stery003ik9.jpg)http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/9484/stery007dm6.th.jpg (http://img175.imageshack.us/my.php?image=stery007dm6.jpg)
It will be barely visible through the 3 stern holes , but still....;)
TBC...
gman223
02-12-08, 07:17 PM
Hi, excellent job on the sub, this might be to late since you have closed the hull up, but www.discountmodels.com (http://www.discountmodels.com) can still get the pe set from Yankee Modelworks YKM 7202 which has the grills for the sixteen vents under the tanks. Just thought I'd give you a heads up. And again great job, hope mine comes out half as nice:up:
Hi, excellent job on the sub, this might be to late since you have closed the hull up, but www.discountmodels.com (http://www.discountmodels.com) can still get the pe set from Yankee Modelworks YKM 7202 which has the grills for the sixteen vents under the tanks. Just thought I'd give you a heads up. And again great job, hope mine comes out half as nice:up:
Thank You gman223 ;) - Ive checked the site , but couldnt find the image of the part. Do You have one?
Stern torpedo tube , the steering mechenisms , and the structural beam in place and finished. I know none will ever bother to have look inside , but i couldnt resist to weather it a little , just to give it slightly "used" look.
And yes i know the boats did not rust below the waterline , in fact the effect is less noticeable in RL./digital fotos tend to overdo this/
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1179/stery002vp9.th.jpg (http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?image=stery002vp9.jpg)http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5234/stery004qr5.th.jpg (http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?image=stery004qr5.jpg)
TBC...
gman223
02-13-08, 02:03 AM
Yeah they dont have any pictures of it on their site. Here is a picture of 4 of the saddletank vent parts on a boat http://www.travel-net.com/~gcauley/U673/images/U673_2_2.jpg not mine I'm a long way from that point, sorry its not the whole pe set, I tried taking a picture of my pe, but my camera sucks couldn't get a clear picture, they keep coming out blurred can't make out the peices.
I bought the set for just those 16 vents no other pe set has them. I didn't have any idea what was on the rest of the set:D . Most of the other parts are dups on the other sets, but this is a small set and pretty cheap considering everything else. Not sure how correct they are but they have to be more accurate than Revells raised rectangles.
From what I can tell this is an old set because nobody anywhere has it and the fret i have is stamped 2004 (just got it monday). Can't even find pictures of it on the net, that one above must be the only picture. I couple weeks ago I gave up looking for this pe set, then just some dumb luck found it looking for something else.
Just to let you know Mark at Discount Models is great to deal with.
Gman223 - You got me going on that 1.
I must say this is exactly the type of constructive comment im on about. Brilliant. :up:
Work started on the vents. Styrene 0.5 mm cut to 1cm/0.8cm/0.5mm.
http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/9886/vents002zi0.th.jpg (http://img183.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents002zi0.jpg)
Insides will be cut away , and wire added to represent grilles.
TBC...
vent project 1.
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/1108/vents007yu9.th.jpg (http://img174.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents007yu9.jpg)
:hmm:
von stauber
02-14-08, 03:05 PM
all along and it has inspired me to give it a go. I'm beginning to gather all the add-ons and I remember a post a bit ago where you mentioned that if you purchase the Nautilus wood deck you need to also purchase an additional item for it to install correctly (yankee pressure hull kit maybe?) did I misunderstand? thanks again for a great thread- not only for all the work you put in building the boot with such detail but the extra time it takes you to photo/upload/post etc is really appreciated!
all along and it has inspired me to give it a go. I'm beginning to gather all the add-ons and I remember a post a bit ago where you mentioned that if you purchase the Nautilus wood deck you need to also purchase an additional item for it to install correctly (yankee pressure hull kit maybe?) did I misunderstand? thanks again for a great thread- not only for all the work you put in building the boot with such detail but the extra time it takes you to photo/upload/post etc is really appreciated!
Thank You Von Stauber :yep: , it is my pleasure to know so many guys enjoy the thread.
To speed up the process , and to get even spacing between the wires ive scrapped the manual coiling of wire on vents. Instead i came up with the "table" for wire fixing.
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/2940/vents013wl8.th.jpg (http://img134.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents013wl8.jpg)
Now i can glue 2 vents onto wires at the same time.
What do You think of my invention? Will it work? ;)
TBC...
HunterICX
02-14-08, 06:28 PM
Lets hope it does Siara, it looks promising.:up:
HunterICX
gman223
02-15-08, 12:35 AM
WOW, that was quick coming up with the vents :rock:and your "invention", do you sleep? :lol:
Looks like it should work, if I'm understanding how it works.
For me the day isnt long enough Gman223 , trying to work , work on the model , play SH , and still maintain circle of friends isnt easy.
The vents completed. Unfortunately the invention didnt work as good as ive expected it. The idea is good , and probably will be perfect for bigger grilles , but for my 16 vents the pins were simply to thick. The spacing between wires is roughly 0,3mm and the pins are 0.4mm.
At the end i had to coil the wires manualy.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/8610/vents008qu4.th.jpg (http://img444.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents008qu4.jpg)http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/8631/vents009zl6.th.jpg (http://img444.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents009zl6.jpg)
TBC...
http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/1410/vents001yi3.th.jpg (http://img264.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents001yi3.jpg)
It needs delicate sanding along the surface , bit along the edges and coat of primer to finish the job.
On inside few ribs will be added also.
TBC...
I have to repeat what Von Stauber wrote: .......thanks again for a great thread- not only for all the work you put in building the boot with such detail but the extra time it takes you to photo/upload/post etc is really appreciated!
I am waiting until you finish your model before start mine, because I am learning a lot from you!
Thanks again!
Thanks guys.:yep:
I went so far with them vents i decided to make it good.
Imitation of ducts inside the vents. Normal warm light was to much to take good snap , but with the help of cool , blue light it shows well.
After it is all painted it will be more noticeable , as copper wires reflect the light now , and confuse my camera.
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1349/ventsba5.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ventsba5.jpg)http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/9466/vents003su6.th.jpg (http://img143.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents003su6.jpg)http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/7835/vents004no1.th.jpg (http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents004no1.jpg)
TBC...
gman223
02-17-08, 06:30 PM
:yep: Those ducts behind the vents are great. Siara you definately have an eye for detail. Can't wait to see the progess on this boat
Thanks again. :D
Now - the closer bow set of grilles was no problem at all.
The stern set is diferent story. If i only did it before i got the hull joined.
The access to the back 2 holes is obstructed by the rib glued in to reinforce the hull.
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/249/vents2001za2.th.jpg (http://img145.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents2001za2.jpg)
Ive cut the openings dead on both sides of the rib.
Another thing is - the weldline needs to be moved to line up with the rib.
To get the "guts" behind the openings , two separate sections were made.
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/1410/vents2002qn3.th.jpg (http://img170.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents2002qn3.jpg)
I must say it wasnt easy trying to fit it through the little hole in the rib , but couple of frustrating hours later it looked like so:
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/7066/vents2004qp7.th.jpg (http://img527.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents2004qp7.jpg)
After the glue was set i filed , then sanded the grilles down to the point , when wires started showing.
Now You can see from the picture below the thickness of the vents is not much more than the PE fited next to it.
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/1080/vents2006by8.th.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vents2006by8.jpg)
It looks much better than original set of grilles , and it was worth putting weeks work into it. :smug:
TBC...
You're obviously doing an extraordinary job there,mate!!!I just built my VIIC/41 as "from the box" model,but yours is going to be a real masterpiece!Keep up the good work!:rock: :up:
Thanks Swat.:up:
The stern torpedo doors are nonexistent in the revell kit , so i have made it out of styrene discs.
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/9624/sterntorpdoor002nn2.th.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sterntorpdoor002nn2.jpg)http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/6910/sterntorpdoor005fk6.th.jpg (http://img262.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sterntorpdoor005fk6.jpg)http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/3330/sterntorpdoor006ag9.th.jpg (http://img266.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sterntorpdoor006ag9.jpg)
TBC...
fine filer aplied and sanded. Primer should sort all the micro imperfections.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/8608/sterntorpdoor001gv6.th.jpg (http://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sterntorpdoor001gv6.jpg)
Started adding various pieces from Eduard PE.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/7441/variousbits001sn9.th.jpg (http://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=variousbits001sn9.jpg)http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/6007/variousbits003ml3.th.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/my.php?image=variousbits003ml3.jpg)
TBC...
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/2249/driveshaft002vd4.th.jpg (http://img299.imageshack.us/my.php?image=driveshaft002vd4.jpg)http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/4742/driveshaft001kp6.th.jpg (http://img258.imageshack.us/my.php?image=driveshaft001kp6.jpg)
TBC...
bert8for3
02-23-08, 06:32 PM
Awesome. ... what kind of filler is that you're using? Looks real fine.
Awesome. ... what kind of filler is that you're using? Looks real fine.
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/9536/filler002yi7.th.jpg (http://img246.imageshack.us/my.php?image=filler002yi7.jpg)
For general filling im using the Squadrons white , and for "making good" the MMD green its hard to beat. It sands beautifuly , and dries quick. It "sinks" a little while drying - so it pays to get the area treated to bit of white first. I only use the green for later stages of filling.
Driveshaft housing in place.
http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/1443/drivwshafts10012zu8.th.jpg (http://img248.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drivwshafts10012zu8.jpg)
...with Eduard strip:
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/3088/drivwshafts10141rm5.th.jpg (http://img213.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drivwshafts10141rm5.jpg)
TBC...
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/6201/drivwshafts1001nz1.th.jpg (http://img408.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drivwshafts1001nz1.jpg)
Some more Eduard PE in place of filled holes.
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/9684/drivwshafts1007ep3.th.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drivwshafts1007ep3.jpg)
Bumper strips replaced after sanding destroyed the revell bits. :cool:
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/8807/drivwshafts1008qg7.th.jpg (http://img187.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drivwshafts1008qg7.jpg)
...more PE.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/7310/drivwshafts1006ub9.th.jpg (http://img408.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drivwshafts1006ub9.jpg)
Driveshafts custom made to replace original shafts.
TBC...
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/3390/drivwshafts1011kx2.th.jpg (http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drivwshafts1011kx2.jpg)
The cone was cut away from the driveshaft and glued to the linkage.
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/9289/drivwshafts1013et4.th.jpg (http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drivwshafts1013et4.jpg)http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/9632/drivwshafts1014um7.th.jpg (http://img99.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drivwshafts1014um7.jpg)
Test fitted with the driveshafts.
TBC...
The screws just reached me today.
Thanks to Deans Marine from Peterborough , which are the dealers of Raboesch - the screws maker.
Normaly people use them for RC models , but the 20 mm 3 blade model is just perfect for my U-552.
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/9595/screws002oe0.th.jpg (http://img266.imageshack.us/my.php?image=screws002oe0.jpg)http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/7430/screws001an2.th.jpg (http://img505.imageshack.us/my.php?image=screws001an2.jpg)
If You ordering some for Your project remember to order left and right.
I need to fix it to my drill and sand them to the point - not big deal.:cool:
TBC...
original Revell screw - note the indent under the blade:
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/2862/screws012ar1.th.jpg (http://img337.imageshack.us/my.php?image=screws012ar1.jpg)
Raboesch brass screw before sanding - the blades are thick , and cone is all wrong:
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/2664/screws011ib5.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=screws011ib5.jpg)
...and finished screw , blades sanded thin , and corrected cone:
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/6321/screws010cg0.th.jpg (http://img265.imageshack.us/my.php?image=screws010cg0.jpg)
All three of them for comparison:
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/5601/screws013sq1.th.jpg (http://img265.imageshack.us/my.php?image=screws013sq1.jpg)
TBC...
After extensive search on the net for formula to make the brass look like it was in water for extended period of time i finaly followed Rokett`s footsteps , and dunk the screws in the vinegar+salt+tap water solution.
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/9371/screws001nj9.th.jpg (http://img297.imageshack.us/my.php?image=screws001nj9.jpg)
Couldnt resist the temptation and post that picture - i think it looks cool. :rock:
von stauber
03-01-08, 04:40 PM
seen but this post now has had over 15,000 views!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
very impressive - as is the work you ared oing keeping it up
don't know who is in chagre of assigning "stickies" but this thread deserves one !!
:rock: :rock: :rock:
Bill Nichols
03-02-08, 03:38 AM
Chief sticky-master reporting!
:ahoy:
Wow - a sticky! Thanks guys - didnt even know one need 15000 views for one. It was never my aim to get that thread the sticky status. Nevertheless its a honour - thank You for reading it regularly.
Back to model.
I was aware sooner or later i need to paint the 552 , and mixing the colors was out of question. More than few people tried to get the colors right. Question is whats right?
I decided to go along the tried and trusted , and just ordered the full set of WEM paints.
White Ensign Models/WEM/ sell the renge of model paints , produced using original chips of paints from real subs and ships. The chips were "strip down" in laboratory to reproduce similar colors.
I trust the experts on that one , and who`s there to argue on the base of few faded , badly lit fotographs of real boats. We can never gues what real colors were , as the salt water , sunshine , and just plain ageing of paints did change its appearance a lot.
So as i said its just the guesswork , and hopefuly the WEM paints are going to give me the base to work from for the weathering progress.
TBC...
Before i start making ribs all along the side flood holes i thought ill check the deck for fit. Deck is a combination of original revell deck/bow and stern section/ and wooden deck from Nautilus models.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4872/deck1005yp2.th.jpg (http://img165.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1005yp2.jpg)http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/2592/deck1004fh2.th.jpg (http://img215.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1004fh2.jpg)http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/528/deck1006kz3.th.jpg (http://img215.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1006kz3.jpg)
Eduard bow section to be glued on top.
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/4672/deck1ei2.th.jpg (http://img517.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1ei2.jpg)
Small box with the pipe running through to add 3D effect to the opening.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3866/deck1011qx4.th.jpg (http://img444.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1011qx4.jpg)http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/4018/deck1012um3.th.jpg (http://img444.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1012um3.jpg)
TBC...
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3372/deck1003aw1.th.jpg (http://img220.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1003aw1.jpg)http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/1263/deck1005fx8.th.jpg (http://img220.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1005fx8.jpg)
Bullnose was removed, because it was in the wrong place, and the shape wasnt right.
TBC...
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/1857/deck2004eg5.th.jpg (http://img167.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2004eg5.jpg)http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/8818/deck2005ix4.th.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2005ix4.jpg)http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/2726/deck2006yw1.th.jpg (http://img299.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2006yw1.jpg)http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/7044/deck2008db6.th.jpg (http://img299.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2008db6.jpg)
Similar to bow section the plastic part needs to be sanded in order to receive the PE on top. Also i will make the box under the grill.
TBC...
bert8for3
03-03-08, 03:55 PM
Does the metal PE decking end up being flush/level with the wood decking?
Does the metal PE decking end up being flush/level with the wood decking?
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/6382/deck2001ki0.th.jpg (http://img408.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2001ki0.jpg)
Only the plastic is in fixed in place/work on ribs/ the wood is just inserted for the pics- hence the gap on both sides of wood.
Once is all glued in-it should end up flush. :up:
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/1523/deck2004ei1.th.jpg (http://img339.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2004ei1.jpg)
TBC...
Hi Siara, you are building a perfect master piece. I think all your posts and all your notes, explanations and pictures are marking a keystone to build this model. This is the "ABC of the real replica of a VII class Uboat". :up: Thanks a lot.
Thank You Sabalo. ;)
I personaly wouldnt go as far as "perfect replica", but it brings me pleasure to better the revell kit. There is a lot of guesswork in everything i do /like the pipe in front section/, the pictures are rare, and there was no two identical boats. I like to research every step as i go along, but sometimes /like the tank vents/ i only find out stuff from fellow forum members. I like the idea of building the boat slow step by slow step, and just see it grow and take shape. Knowing that some of You enjoy it also brings me joy.
BTW- im planning on finishing it for 14 sep :yep: -the day it was launched.
bert8for3
03-03-08, 09:22 PM
Only the plastic is in fixed in place/work on ribs/ the wood is just inserted for the pics- hence the gap on both sides of wood.
Once is all glued in-it should end up flush. :up: ...
Ah, ok. Tks, I was just curious.
Smal hatch on the stern steel section. Added pipework- again just imaginary pipework to enhance it a bit.
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/3931/deck2001lq7.th.jpg (http://img85.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2001lq7.jpg)
Hatch was cut open.
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/9046/deck2006sz1.th.jpg (http://img178.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2006sz1.jpg)http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/8030/deck2007nl0.th.jpg (http://img178.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2007nl0.jpg)
Pipework in place.
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9283/deck2009nv1.th.jpg (http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2009nv1.jpg)
"Dry fit"
TBC...
WEM paints. The main color Hellgrau 50 is out of stock. It will be delivered ASAP.
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/4876/wempaintsrg5.th.jpg (http://img401.imageshack.us/my.php?image=wempaintsrg5.jpg)http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/8974/wempaints010ll4.th.jpg (http://img254.imageshack.us/my.php?image=wempaints010ll4.jpg)
Matt white is also out of stock, but unfortunately is discontinued. I got to replace it by other brand.
TBC...
Work started on the ribs running along the full length of the hull. God give me strength and patience...:doh:
http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/1088/ribsgz7.th.jpg (http://img126.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ribsgz7.jpg)http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/8531/ribs004nx0.th.jpg (http://img126.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ribs004nx0.jpg)http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/6057/ribs007wo8.th.jpg (http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ribs007wo8.jpg)
TBC...
bert8for3
03-05-08, 11:16 AM
Work started on the ribs running along the full length of the hull. God give me strength and patience...:doh: TBC...
Well, if it's any consolation :sunny: (a) they look great :up: and (b) maybe it's the worst part, or one of the worst parts, out of the way.
I wish it was out of the way Bert8for3. Long way to go still.
Im far from rushing the project, but i crave doing something diferent for the change- like 88mm gun, or conning tower. To paint something would be nice.
I know it needs to be done , and it needs to be done now. Otherwise ill never make it.
Beauty of it is, everything after the deck is in place will be piece of cake. ;)
While im still dwelling on the ribs, let me updete You on the screws.
Its been full week since ive sunk em in salt and vinegar solution, and they changed the color a bit. All the shine is gone, and they look darker.
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/900/sruby002gh5.th.jpg (http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sruby002gh5.jpg)
TBC...
Middle section of the Inner pressure hull.
Its made out of resin, and support is needed. Few styrene profiles were added between the fixing points to prevent it from sinking.
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/6381/middeck005xc2.th.jpg (http://img99.imageshack.us/my.php?image=middeck005xc2.jpg)
The 88mm gun mount.
Couple of pictures taken from the book U-Boott VII vol 1 by Marek Krzysztalowicz.
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/5183/gunmountqg9.th.jpg (http://img179.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gunmountqg9.jpg)http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/3812/gunmount1zv2.th.jpg (http://img339.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gunmount1zv2.jpg)
Resin part by White Ensign Models is about the half the hight required.
It is also of the wrong shape, as it only has single fins on the front and back.
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/6984/middeck002uf6.th.jpg (http://img259.imageshack.us/my.php?image=middeck002uf6.jpg)http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/7839/middeck003uf2.th.jpg (http://img218.imageshack.us/my.php?image=middeck003uf2.jpg)
I have sanded it flush with the pressure hull, and made the new one with styrene.
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/9590/middeck008ed6.th.jpg (http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=middeck008ed6.jpg)http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/7093/middeck009jt4.th.jpg (http://img113.imageshack.us/my.php?image=middeck009jt4.jpg)
The most important thing is - the opening in the deck lines up with the mount nicely now.
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/5751/middeck007da2.th.jpg (http://img113.imageshack.us/my.php?image=middeck007da2.jpg)
TBC...
Sailor Steve
03-07-08, 07:35 PM
After extensive search on the net for formula to make the brass look like it was in water for extended period of time i finaly followed Rokett`s footsteps , and dunk the screws in the vinegar+salt+tap water solution.
Make it look like it's been in saltwater for a long time by putting it in saltwater for a long time. Could only be done with actual metal parts.
BRILLIANT!:rock:
Bow section of ribs completed and primed before painting and weathering.
http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/7545/frontribs007oo0.th.jpg (http://img128.imageshack.us/my.php?image=frontribs007oo0.jpg)
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/1006/frontribs012sv8.th.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=frontribs012sv8.jpg)
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/6889/frontribs010ln1.th.jpg (http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image=frontribs010ln1.jpg)
Ill add the anchor chain and puleys, but im still searching for detailed plan of the anchor chain system. Does anyone have the plans of it please?
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/307/anchorchain004pl3.th.jpg (http://img49.imageshack.us/my.php?image=anchorchain004pl3.jpg)
TBC...
Hi Siara,
I Know it's been a while, but yes i'm still here! U-69 has had to take a back seat as i've got some serious work commitments and have to decide on a new carreer path within the rail industry.
Do you have a copy of Anatomy of the Ship, Type VII U-boat, By David Westwood? There are some quite detailed drawings of the anchor chain storage box and anchor windlass drum, which is attached to the removable capstan by a shaft. This is drawn up in plan and side elevation on page 84/85.
Well done on the 'sticky' a build well worthy of such an accolade!
PM me if you need help as regards the above drawings.
Sav.
von stauber
03-09-08, 02:30 PM
all the anchor/anchor mechanism diagrams and send them to you on Monday-just let me know
von stauber
03-09-08, 02:30 PM
all the anchor/anchor mechanism diagrams and send them to you on Monday-just let me know
von stauber
03-09-08, 02:30 PM
all the anchor/anchor mechanism diagrams and send them to you on Monday-just let me know
Thanks von stauber. PM sent.
Heres the preview of something ive been working on for the couple of days. Can You guess the item?
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/2393/windlas005kl0.jpg
TBC...
von stauber
03-10-08, 07:45 PM
:hmm:
Yes- it is windlass indeed.
All done- just another coat of primer needed, and some paint, rust and grime.
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/5746/windlas004ne1.th.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=windlas004ne1.jpg)http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/6496/windlas001jl3.th.jpg (http://img216.imageshack.us/my.php?image=windlas001jl3.jpg)http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/9638/windlas002tn9.th.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=windlas002tn9.jpg)http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9426/windlas003ho6.th.jpg (http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=windlas003ho6.jpg)http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/1206/windlas006hs0.th.jpg (http://img216.imageshack.us/my.php?image=windlas006hs0.jpg)http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/358/windlas007wf3.th.jpg (http://img402.imageshack.us/my.php?image=windlas007wf3.jpg)
TBC...
How impressed am i? And built up so quickly too!
What are you going to use for your weathering? I bought the 'Rust,dust and Smoke' set by Mig Productions. This set is a must IMO and will last you for years.
Good stuff mate, keep em coming,
Sav.
von stauber
03-13-08, 09:39 AM
sorry for the delay and poor quality - my scanner is acting up
PS how do you directly post an image here on the sub sim message forum (- not using a link to imageshack, etc)
tried cut/paste - did not work
What are you going to use for your weathering? I bought the 'Rust,dust and Smoke' set by Mig Productions.
Sav. Good choice Savvy- i heard lot of good about Mig pigments. :up:
First the model will be preshaded to bring the shades through.
After the base color aplication i will postshade it. After that the wash, and finaly the rust- using acrylics, and weathered using Tamiya weathering master set-/orange rust, gunmetal, silver/.
I will be using watercolours and artists oils also.
The lot will be sealed with mat water varnish.
Todays pics- some piping and underdeck buoy starage canister.
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1902/phullbits003om3.th.jpg (http://img508.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phullbits003om3.jpg)http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/6926/phullbits004iy4.th.jpg (http://img508.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phullbits004iy4.jpg)
Ive done some research on rust.
I managed to find container of similar color to u-boats hull, and with wide range of rusty patches. I think some will come usefull for the weathering process.
http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/839/rust006no9.th.jpg (http://img368.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rust006no9.jpg)http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/5954/rust002md5.th.jpg (http://img368.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rust002md5.jpg)http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/438/rust001ax9.th.jpg (http://img402.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rust001ax9.jpg)
Couple of days ago i was playing with watercolors and from top of my head came up with something like so:
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8264/rusttestax2ss8.th.jpg (http://img181.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rusttestax2ss8.jpg)
I think it looks ok. Not far of the real thing.
On another note, today the guy called Albert J. Hieggelke posted the comment on my blog regarding the pictures in the slideshow. It only turned out the guy is the son of the Fahnr.z.S Fritz Hieggielke- the crew member of the 552. :rock:How cool is that?
TBC...
This morning i slowly started to prepare the stern section of U-boat for ribs.
On inspection i discovered it will be very hard to "rib" the part of the hull next to exhausts. I decided to cut`em out. The price was heavy- 2 deep cuts to thumb, and finger. :roll:
But on the bright side, now the rib job is easier, and i can correct the collector pipes and scratch build the exhaust pipes, and outlet boxes/not present on the resin hull/
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/7947/sternribs0041ue2.th.jpg (http://img341.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sternribs0041ue2.jpg)
Im glad i`ve beefed up the underside of the resin hull. :know:
TBC...
bert8for3
03-14-08, 06:11 PM
Just fyi, I've also got Westwood's Type VII Anatomy of the Ship - in case you need anything just give a holler.
Accidently :yep: just got the same book, and another- few here regard as best sub read /hm,hm...Iron Coffins./ :rock:
All i need now is time, and lots of it.
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2057/sternribs008gm6.th.jpg (http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sternribs008gm6.jpg)http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/5782/sternribs009yz2.th.jpg (http://img120.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sternribs009yz2.jpg)http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/4454/sternribs015xz3.th.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sternribs015xz3.jpg)
Stern ribbing proves to be tight squeze. Without cuting the exhausts probably impossible task.
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/7564/sternribs010lo8.th.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sternribs010lo8.jpg)http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/3405/sternribs012fw5.th.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sternribs012fw5.jpg)http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/7793/sternribs003ft4.th.jpg (http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sternribs003ft4.jpg)
The exhaust outlet box.
TBC...
von stauber
03-15-08, 01:19 PM
going to keep the pressure hull and internal ribs a different shade (darker) than the external hull- but when you paint the external hull how are you going to keep the paint (presumbly a lighter shade than the ribs/pressure hull) from travelling through the flood holes and ruining the ribs/pressure hull shade??? you cant' mask the holes closed from the inside with the ribs in place - correct???
You right- theres nothing to stop the paint entering the holes. Good :smug:
So far i only applied the primer. The inside will be painted same color as the bottom of the hull- Schiftsbodenfarbe III /antifouling paint/.
When i close the deck it is so dark inside, that the only light will be traveling through the slots in the deck, and floodholes. The lighter paint- Hellgrau 50 in which the upper hull will be painted will highlight the ribs a bit without looking out of place.
von stauber
03-15-08, 02:09 PM
thought you were going to say you were going to mask every flood hole individually :lol: at that point I would have had to suggest you go on medication !!!! just kidding - keep up the great work!!!
Sometimes i think that myself.:lol:
Just to keep You updated small sneaky at exhausts:
http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/5462/exhaust003wp9.th.jpg (http://img363.imageshack.us/my.php?image=exhaust003wp9.jpg)
Its not glued in yet, its only in place to get the right shape of wire. Once painted ill attach two clamps round the muffler.
TBC...
von stauber
03-15-08, 03:35 PM
:up: but like a master craftsman- you'll know it's there - that's what counts!!
In order to fit new exhausts /which are bit longer than original resin exhausts/ the cables were cut out, and will be repositioned.
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/2973/exhaust001cm2.th.jpg (http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=exhaust001cm2.jpg)
Before the ribbing work begin on the portside the pipework was moved slightly away from the ribs.
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/2561/exhaust0021lz2.th.jpg (http://img403.imageshack.us/my.php?image=exhaust0021lz2.jpg)
TBC...
Repiping completed.
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/1470/exhaust002cr1.th.jpg (http://img178.imageshack.us/my.php?image=exhaust002cr1.jpg)
TBC...
I dont have any reference picture of the exhausts themselves, but i do believe the fumes and sea water would be very harsh on hot metal.
The exhaust main box will show gradient rusting process.
The first stage was to give the box required texture. That was achieved by dubing the MMD green putty using hard brush. Than i pressed some indents with pin.
Painted flat brown.
http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/2056/exhaust004ie9.th.jpg (http://img373.imageshack.us/my.php?image=exhaust004ie9.jpg)
This is the first stage. Next will be salt treatment :cool:
Stay tuned.
TBC...
Kitchen salt applied with help of moisture. Painted over with primer:
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/6882/exhaust002he8.th.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/my.php?image=exhaust002he8.jpg)
Salt removed:
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/52/exhaust0041dx6.th.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/my.php?image=exhaust0041dx6.jpg)
Painted schiffsbodenfarbe III Grau 1 and weathered with rust Tamiya pigments:
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/8914/exhaust006am7.th.jpg (http://img222.imageshack.us/my.php?image=exhaust006am7.jpg)
TBC...
http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/8122/deck1003zd0.th.jpg (http://img390.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1003zd0.jpg)
Before the deck goes in the hull, the steel support girders were put in.
Detail of each beam:
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/7346/deck1007bu6.th.jpg (http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1007bu6.jpg)http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1113/deck1008tv8.th.jpg (http://img337.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1008tv8.jpg)http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5207/deck1010xg7.th.jpg (http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1010xg7.jpg)
Advantage is i can now drop the deck straight in without worry it might cave in. :know:
Talking about deck:
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/7957/deck1011pl5.th.jpg (http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1011pl5.jpg)http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/6411/deck1012zh6.th.jpg (http://img167.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1012zh6.jpg)
...and close up of the joint:
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/403/deck1014lu0.th.jpg (http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1014lu0.jpg)
TBC...
http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/8615/deck2002qy4.th.jpg (http://img183.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2002qy4.jpg)
The 2 strips from midship that were cut away.
http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/4408/deck1002tz2.th.jpg (http://img183.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1002tz2.jpg)
Original flood holes from the kit.
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/5746/deck1003ni7.th.jpg (http://img213.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1003ni7.jpg)
Holes open, and grooved for PE.
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/3021/deck1004hr0.th.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1004hr0.jpg)
PE in place. Note some holes are closed. This is the corect pattern for portside of U-552.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/8499/deck1005ix7.th.jpg (http://img518.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1005ix7.jpg)
Note the diference between port and starboard side of the hull.
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5846/deck1007ii4.th.jpg (http://img207.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1007ii4.jpg)http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/299/deck1008pp2.th.jpg (http://img207.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck1008pp2.jpg)
Ribs behind the PE.:cool:
TBC...
Bottom part of CT.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/6056/deck2005ct3.th.jpg (http://img149.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2005ct3.jpg)
It will provide the support for the deck joint, and Conning Tower itself when it is finaly fited.
http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/1832/deck2003hm4.th.jpg (http://img519.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck2003hm4.jpg)
TBC...
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5301/deck23003ym7.th.jpg (http://img216.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck23003ym7.jpg)
Side strips applied. Deck`s only dry fited.
To show You better the scale of the project i pictured it with the packet of ciggies.
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/5540/deck23001he2.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck23001he2.jpg)
TBC...
I didnt like the area around the hatch in the wooden deck. It looks to basic.
I used the part of the PE deck to replace it.
First i cut out all the slats leaving some of the wood for strength.
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/5892/deck23345002ds2.th.jpg (http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck23345002ds2.jpg)
The area where the PE covers the wood was sanded down 0,5mm.
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/672/deck23345003wr2.th.jpg (http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck23345003wr2.jpg)
In place.
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/3048/deck230041sh7.th.jpg (http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=deck230041sh7.jpg)
TBC...
Deck mangling continues. :D
The stern marker buoy hatch.
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/1663/markerbuoyhatch001lc7.th.jpg (http://img170.imageshack.us/my.php?image=markerbuoyhatch001lc7.jpg)
Opening is not directly abowe the resin ring. I will sand it down and scratchbuild one.
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/8161/markerbuoyhatch002lx4.th.jpg (http://img179.imageshack.us/my.php?image=markerbuoyhatch002lx4.jpg)
Backing plate for the hatch lid. Ive added the brass backing plate for strength.
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/7849/markerbuoyhatch007re1.th.jpg (http://img211.imageshack.us/my.php?image=markerbuoyhatch007re1.jpg)http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/5066/markerbuoyhatch008zx3.th.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/my.php?image=markerbuoyhatch008zx3.jpg)http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/4161/markerbuoyhatch009co6.th.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/my.php?image=markerbuoyhatch009co6.jpg)http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7367/markerbuoyhatch010nq3.th.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/my.php?image=markerbuoyhatch010nq3.jpg)
Part of the underdeck steel beams.
The lid was taken from revell deck. Cut out and cleaned ready for the Eduard PE set.
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/6206/markerbuoyhatch013qq1.th.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=markerbuoyhatch013qq1.jpg)http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/5311/markerbuoyhatch011gr8.th.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/my.php?image=markerbuoyhatch011gr8.jpg)http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/8958/markerbuoyhatch012xz5.th.jpg (http://img524.imageshack.us/my.php?image=markerbuoyhatch012xz5.jpg)
TBC...
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