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#1 |
Ocean Warrior
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Miami, FL
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I drive a 2002 Mazda MPV, that is in fairly good condition despite a few scratches, and problems here or there. I eventually plan on replacing the rear bumper, repainting it, and replacing some of the broken interior pieces.
I'm pretty handy, so I'd like to do all the replacing myself, but that's another story. My question/issue is that I have two things that I want to know if it's something I can fix/replace or if it's something I should pay someone to fix. The first one has to do with the remote for the power locks. It no longer works, I tried replacing the battery in the remote, but that wasn't the issue. Any suggestions on what I should try next? Is it possible to purchase a new remote for my vehicle? The second issue is the power lock for the left rear door. For whatever reason it doesn't unlock/lock like the rest, you have to manually push the lock open and closed. Bit of a pain when you have to open the drivers door, and reach back just to unlock the door. Anything I should try?
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#2 |
Fleet Admiral
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First thing I would do is obtain via the Internets Tubes the factory service manual for your car. This goes into far more detail that the owner's manual.
These service manuals give you step by step instructions for fixin stuff. Once you know the steps, you will be in a better position to evaluate your limitations. Good luck with it. ![]() Like this one for example: http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.p...service-repair I just input "2002 Mazda MPV factory service manuals" Into the Googles and a list of them came up. ![]()
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#3 |
Ocean Warrior
![]() Join Date: May 2005
Location: New Castle of Delaware
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Spike, you can replace the power lock unit and all the related stuff. Get a manual for you car that cover the year you own. Just becareful taking things apart. If you have a digita camer take pictures of everything together in it's place inside the doors before you start. That will help you putting it all back together.
![]() I've got the same issues with my 2000 Jeep GC. I've just been too lazy to fix it all. LOL
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#4 |
XO
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
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Look in the owners manual, or look up online, the procedure for programming the remote lock key fob. If the batteries went dead it may have lost the digital 'key' that the car needs to recognize it as a proper remote and not a 'stranger'.
If that does not work the reciever may have gone bad or lost power. The receiver fuse may be blown. check ALL the fuses. Sometimes they put it on a circuit that is different from the solenoids themselves. I am not at shop right now so I can not pull up the wiring schematic up to tell you which one it is. About the power door lock working only in manual mode on the one door; the lock soleniod is probably bad. We see it all the time in any electric lock vehicle. You should pull the door panel and check for voltage at the pigtail. When you press the lock/unlock button and get 12 volts at the connector for the solenoid then it is getting a proper signal and the solenoid itself has gone bad (just replace it). If there is no voltage, then there is a fault in the wiring or possibly the switch. Shop manuals will NOT give you step by step procedures for electrical issues. It will provide the info you need to troubleshoot a problem. This is one that you just have to take some time to figure out. Luckily it is a rather basic circuit. |
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#5 | |
Ocean Warrior
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Miami, FL
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![]() At least I got something done today. Never got to replace the burnt lamp, as I spent a good hour and a half(and then the sun went down) trying to get to the blasted thing. After the sun went down I gave up and started putting the car back together, ended up putting part of the grill over the little handle to release the hood. Spent 20 minutes with a screwdriver trying to manually pry open the hood lock. Finally got it open, set everything straight. I did notice there seemed to be junk in my front bumper. Parts out of place and such, along with some sort of binding that was pooled together. Although we've replaced our fan twice, so I'm fairly certain the mechanic was just lazy. Although two parts fell underneath the car and I'm not sure what they're for. I'll post pictures of them later, but they're two rubber pieces with glue on the bottom that look like some sort of cushioning. I think they had been free floating in the car and had just fallen out when I moved the bumper around. Edit: Apparently the easier method for replacing the burn light is by removing the battery, and one of the intake tubes right behind the area(easier then removing the damn grill again). Also, any suggestions on de-clouding/un-fogging(whatever terminology you want to use) the headlight covers? I heard there is a chemical you can buy called Nu something, but want to know if this is the best option. I've also heard that plain white tooth paste works.
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#6 | |
XO
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
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Any parts store will have a 'headlight defogger' kit. It will include some fine sandpaper and a acrylic sealer. The whole thing takes about an hour to do. What happens is the plastic film on the surface of the headlamp assemby is fogged due to UV rays. The plastic film is there to prevent the fracturing of the plastic due to impacts (you know...bugs, rocks, rear bumpers of the car in front of you). Anyway, the film they use on some cars is not UV stabilized. What you have to do is sand the plastic off and reseal the headlight and that is what the kit does. |
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#7 |
Lucky Jack
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I have used the kits for the fogged lenses on the headlights. They do work. Just mask off the area so you do not bugger up the paint.
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#8 | ||
Ocean Warrior
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Miami, FL
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![]() Quote:
The "Parking Light" has the following mention in my owner's manual: Quote:
The actual bulb is the one on the left side of this picture(Note, this isn't my picture, as my headlamps are clouded as hell.) ![]() Everyone else, thanks for the replies, will look into it after I fix today's issue.
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