I think I found my new home! - Page 54

frau kaleun · 06-09-13, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WernherVonTrapp

Ahh, yes, that'd be Pluto. Where I was at, that is. Hmmm. hmmm, (thinking which button I can push on the dashboard to get me back to earth). Ah, here it is (WoooooooSHHH!). OK, I'm back!

Well, after following Wolferz's advice on lifting it, you could use some pine shelving boards to fill in the gap. That doesn't look (in the photo) to be 2" deep, so maybe a 1" X 6" length of pine, glued and screwed into place.

Yeah but the real problem is how to raise the counter up in the middle so I can get anything in there. I can push/lift it up a bit but I can't hold it up while I put a permanent support in place. That's why the jack etc. was suggested. I was thinking just of some wedge type things that I could push into gap, starting near the end and then working my way towards the middle and raising it up little by little as I go. Once I got the middle part raised up enough I could slide something permanent in there to fill the gap.

frau kaleun · 06-09-13, 01:42 PM

On a completely unrelated note, after perusing my patio I have to say I'm really disappointed in Ortho Roundup. Oh, it killed all the things I sprayed it on, but they were still THERE. I had to go around and pull them out by hand and that's TWICE I had to bend my aching back and/or knees for every single weed that I treated.

I dunno, I guess I was expecting something more along the lines of the wicked witch of the west's exit in The Wizard of Oz, like they'd get doused and then just disappear back down into the ground shrieking "I'm melting!" in shrill little weedy voices.

Sailor Steve · 06-09-13, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frau kaleun

Yeah but the real problem is how to raise the counter up in the middle so I can get anything in there.

I would offer to help, but then I remembered I'm in Utah!

u crank · 06-09-13, 02:59 PM

From the photos FK your counter top is the standard post-formed type. Particle board substrate covered with laminate. It is probably attached to your cabinet with screws through those built up parts around the edges. This type of counter top is not really strong and any heavy jacking could break it or lift it off the cabs. If I was doing this fix I would remove the top, flip it over and put the desired piece in, glued and screwed, then put it back on.

You may not want to go to that much work. I think your method should work, slowly wedging it up and getting the piece in there. I would use wooden shims. You can usually buy a small package of them at a building supply. Easy does it and it should work. The piece you put in should be the same thickness as those built down edges, probably 5/8s or 3/4s of an inch.

Good luck. Enjoying reading about your new home adventures.

Wolferz · 06-09-13, 03:44 PM

Treat it like a noise in your car...

Turn up the radio.

Or place something heavy on the raised end.

Thanks U-crank. Finally someone totally familiar with cabinet construction.

Hopefully the Frau wouldn't stick a jack in there and just crank it till it broke.
She's brighter than that.

PS:
Your murdered weeds will eventually desiccate to the point of crumbling into dust.
If you don't wish to wait, get a crack hoe.

Those girls will do about anything for twenty bucks.

frau kaleun · 06-09-13, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by u crank

From the photos FK your counter top is the standard post-formed type. Particle board substrate covered with laminate. It is probably attached to your cabinet with screws through those built up parts around the edges. This type of counter top is not really strong and any heavy jacking could break it or lift it off the cabs. If I was doing this fix I would remove the top, flip it over and put the desired piece in, glued and screwed, then put it back on.

But but but but my breadbox is already sitting on it.

Also, that sounds like a two person or even three person job. Although if I loosened the screws at each end, that might give me enough slack across the entire counter to raise and hold up the middle long enough to get something in there to brace it. If nothing else it would make getting any shims in a lot easier.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wolferz

Hopefully the Frau wouldn't stick a jack in there and just crank it till it broke.
She's brighter than that.

Oh, you'd be surprised. I've done some pretty stupid things over the years when it came to repairs around the ol' homestead.

But then that was before I had such wonderful online resources, and of course I didn't actually OWN the homestead at the time.

Quote:

Your murdered weeds will eventually desiccate to the point of crumbling into dust.
If you don't wish to wait, get a crack hoe.

A crack hoe? I don't want to pimp my patio, just get rid of the weeds.

But seriously, folks... it's a bricked surface, so I can't hoe anything. The weeds are coming up in the spaces between the bricks. No doubt it will be a perennial problem during growing season, so I may spring for the Ortho thingy with the hose and wand so I can douse them without too much bending and scraping. The first bottle I got ran out when I was only about halfway done with the whole area so I'll have to buy some more anyway.

frau kaleun · 06-09-13, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sailor Steve

I would offer to help, but then I remembered I'm in Utah!

You should come to visit! I've got several different half-empty rooms with floors you can sleep on. I'll even give you an empty box for a nightstand and I'm sure I can find a nice hunk of styrofoam for a pillow.

Wolferz · 06-09-13, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frau kaleun

But but but but my breadbox is already sitting on it.

Also, that sounds like a two person or even three person job. Although if I loosened the screws at each end, that might give me enough slack across the entire counter to raise and hold up the middle long enough to get something in there to brace it. If nothing else it would make getting any shims in a lot easier.

Oh, you'd be surprised. I've done some pretty stupid things over the years when it came to repairs around the ol' homestead.

But then that was before I had such wonderful online resources, and of course I didn't actually OWN the homestead at the time.

A crack hoe? I don't want to pimp my patio, just get rid of the weeds.

But seriously, folks... it's a bricked surface, so I can't hoe anything. The weeds are coming up in the spaces between the bricks. No doubt it will be a perennial problem during growing season, so I may spring for the Ortho thingy with the hose and wand so I can douse them without too much bending and scraping. The first bottle I got ran out when I was only about halfway done with the whole area so I'll have to buy some more anyway.

Get the crack hoe to pluck the weeds out, not service them ya silly.

HW3 · 06-09-13, 04:59 PM

Quote:

so I may spring for the Ortho thingy with the hose and wand so I can douse them without too much bending and scraping.

Get the extended control one, it will kill the present ones and is supposed to stop any more from showing up for about 4 months. Spray all the cracks and enjoy no more weeds for awhile.

WernherVonTrapp · 06-09-13, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frau kaleun

Yeah but the real problem is how to raise the counter up in the middle so I can get anything in there. I can push/lift it up a bit but I can't hold it up while I put a permanent support in place. That's why the jack etc. was suggested. I was thinking just of some wedge type things that I could push into gap, starting near the end and then working my way towards the middle and raising it up little by little as I go. Once I got the middle part raised up enough I could slide something permanent in there to fill the gap.

Well, IF you can get underneath the cabinet (via doors, any opening) without too much difficulty, you can get a piece or two of 1" X 6" pine shelving, cut to the proper length you need, and gently tap them into place with a mallot or hammer, sort of along the lines you see in the illustration below.

Once you get the shims in place, get a piece of 5/8 plywood cut to a fitting length, and replace the pine shelving with the plywood, or just add additional pine shelf pieces until you have an inner wall within the cabinet wall. If you use the right glue and a few strategically placed screws, you'll never have to worry about it again. If you're talking fractions of an inch, this might be the answer.

Sailor Steve · 06-09-13, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frau kaleun

You should come to visit! I've got several different half-empty rooms with floors you can sleep on. I'll even give you an empty box for a nightstand and I'm sure I can find a nice hunk of styrofoam for a pillow.

The five scariest words you'll ever hear from me: I can be there tomorrow.

I even have a car now, and a nice air mattress and my own pillow. The only problem is that I don't have a laptop, and I know you won't share your computer, so the deal is off.

On the other hand, after saying all that maybe it's time for me to load up the car and move somewhere else, like Antarctica.

frau kaleun · 06-09-13, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sailor Steve

On the other hand, after saying all that maybe it's time for me to load up the car and move somewhere else, like Antarctica.

That'll be a long, cold drive. And a really wet one in some spots.

frau kaleun · 06-09-13, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WernherVonTrapp

Well, IF you can get underneath the cabinet (via doors, any opening) without too much difficulty, you can get a piece or two of 1" X 6" pine shelving, cut to the proper length you need, and gently tap them into place with a mallot or hammer, sort of along the lines you see in the illustration below.

Once you get the shims in place, get a piece of 5/8 plywood cut to a fitting length, and replace the pine shelving with the plywood, or just add additional pine shelf pieces until you have an inner wall within the cabinet wall. If you use the right glue and a few strategically placed screws, you'll never have to worry about it again. If you're talking fractions of an inch, this might be the answer.

This isn't doable since there is a shelf along the back wall of the cabinet. It's already sagging in the middle also due to having no center support, and I will probably have to remove it or else figure out a way to prop it up at some point in the future. I can't put anything between the inside bottom of the cabinet back and the countertop because the shelf is in the way, and I can't use the shelf to brace the countertop for the reasons noted above.

Wolferz · 06-10-13, 05:57 AM

Off To the glue factory with it then.

Just like a sway back horse.

If the whole thing is sagging in the middle, maybe a professional cabinet company would be your best bet to effect the repair. <shrug>

Just like an engineer, I don't see the glass as half full or half empty. I see the container as being twice the volume required to hold the liquid.

frau kaleun · 06-10-13, 09:37 PM

Okay, here's a different sort of question: so far my expenses have been mostly for decor and things I wanted to add, like cable service, etc. But eventually - like with the leaky faucet, or the saggy cabinet - I'm gonna start spending money on repairs to the actual structure or bits of it or on things that might be considered "improving the value of the property."

Some of the stuff that comes up in the first year may be covered by the home warranty, but sooner or later I will be paying for something.

What kinds of things are tax deductible, if that's a possibility? Should I be saving receipts of any and all expenses for tax purposes, or for some other reason beyond filing claims with the home warranty insurance if that's an option for some things?

06-09-13, 02:59 PM	#799
u crank Old enough to know better Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Prince Edward Island Posts: 11,749 Downloads: 136 Uploads: 0	From the photos FK your counter top is the standard post-formed type. Particle board substrate covered with laminate. It is probably attached to your cabinet with screws through those built up parts around the edges. This type of counter top is not really strong and any heavy jacking could break it or lift it off the cabs. If I was doing this fix I would remove the top, flip it over and put the desired piece in, glued and screwed, then put it back on. You may not want to go to that much work. I think your method should work, slowly wedging it up and getting the piece in there. I would use wooden shims. You can usually buy a small package of them at a building supply. Easy does it and it should work. The piece you put in should be the same thickness as those built down edges, probably 5/8s or 3/4s of an inch. Good luck. Enjoying reading about your new home adventures. __________________ “Two possibilities exist: either we are alone in the Universe or we are not. Both are equally terrifying.” ― Arthur C. Clarke

06-09-13, 03:44 PM	#800
Wolferz Navy Seal Join Date: May 2007 Location: On a mighty quest for the Stick of Truth Posts: 5,963 Downloads: 52 Uploads: 0	Treat it like a noise in your car... Turn up the radio. Or place something heavy on the raised end. Thanks U-crank. Finally someone totally familiar with cabinet construction. Hopefully the Frau wouldn't stick a jack in there and just crank it till it broke. She's brighter than that. PS: Your murdered weeds will eventually desiccate to the point of crumbling into dust. If you don't wish to wait, get a crack hoe. Those girls will do about anything for twenty bucks. __________________ Tomorrow never comes

06-10-13, 05:57 AM	#809
Wolferz Navy Seal Join Date: May 2007 Location: On a mighty quest for the Stick of Truth Posts: 5,963 Downloads: 52 Uploads: 0	Off To the glue factory with it then. Just like a sway back horse. If the whole thing is sagging in the middle, maybe a professional cabinet company would be your best bet to effect the repair. <shrug> Just like an engineer, I don't see the glass as half full or half empty. I see the container as being twice the volume required to hold the liquid. __________________ Tomorrow never comes

06-09-13, 01:42 PM	#797
frau kaleun Rear Admiral Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Skyri--oh who are we kidding, I'm probably at Lowe's. Again. Posts: 12,706 Downloads: 168 Uploads: 0	On a completely unrelated note, after perusing my patio I have to say I'm really disappointed in Ortho Roundup. Oh, it killed all the things I sprayed it on, but they were still THERE. I had to go around and pull them out by hand and that's TWICE I had to bend my aching back and/or knees for every single weed that I treated. I dunno, I guess I was expecting something more along the lines of the wicked witch of the west's exit in The Wizard of Oz, like they'd get doused and then just disappear back down into the ground shrieking "I'm melting!" in shrill little weedy voices.

06-10-13, 09:37 PM	#810
frau kaleun Rear Admiral Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Skyri--oh who are we kidding, I'm probably at Lowe's. Again. Posts: 12,706 Downloads: 168 Uploads: 0	Okay, here's a different sort of question: so far my expenses have been mostly for decor and things I wanted to add, like cable service, etc. But eventually - like with the leaky faucet, or the saggy cabinet - I'm gonna start spending money on repairs to the actual structure or bits of it or on things that might be considered "improving the value of the property." Some of the stuff that comes up in the first year may be covered by the home warranty, but sooner or later I will be paying for something. What kinds of things are tax deductible, if that's a possibility? Should I be saving receipts of any and all expenses for tax purposes, or for some other reason beyond filing claims with the home warranty insurance if that's an option for some things?