A quintet of Eduard 1/48 Spitfires

[ajrimmer42]

Thanks chaps!

Originally Posted by Onkel Neal

May I ask, do you spray a clear gloss varnish before you apply decals? And do you use Micro Set and Sol?

I personally always do gloss before decals. It can inexplicably be a bit of a hot subject within the scale modelling community but IMHO glossing gives the absolute best possible conditions for the best possible results. Sure you don't HAVE to gloss with modern decal setting solutions but there's a higher risk of getting silvering.

I do use Micro Set/Sol, and I've also been using the VMS equivalents too which I find work really well. For me the 'Set' portion, i.e. the adhesive isn't as necessary as the softening part so sometimes I forgo that bit.

Incidentally, I have also had really excellent results simply using Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinners as a decal softening solution, I find it actually gets better results with a wider range of decals than most other dedicated softeners I've tried.

I've tried most decal solutions on the market previously - Daco Strong, Tamiya Markfit Medium/Strong, Mr Hobby Softer (NOT the Neo version) and I have to say I've never got any of those to work.

[Onkel Neal]

Ah, ok. I guess that means I will spray a clear gloss coat over the sub's matt paint, then decal. Then coat with clear matt ?

[ET2SN]

Originally Posted by ajrimmer42

Incidentally, I have also had really excellent results simply using Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinners as a decal softening solution, I find it actually gets better results with a wider range of decals than most other dedicated softeners I've tried.

Wait a minute, are you talking about X-20 ("enamel") or X-20A ("acrylic")?
Tamiya's chemistry has always been a little "out there" in terms of being potent , but I've always associated decal film with lacquer based paints.

Which begs the question, has anyone tried to use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement on really stubborn decals? I've thought about it but have never had the courage to actually try it.

Some old school decal secrets- I've long been a fan of Micro Set but for stubborn decals I've had good results using Testor's "Dull Cote Lacquer" and "Sealer for Metalizer". Both use lacquer based solvents but are mild enough to not turn your decals into mashed potatos.
While they have been extinct for a couple of years, they were also sold in large (52 mL) bottles that tend to stick around for a long while.
Dull Cote, when applied with a small brush, is also effective for getting rid of the "seam" you get from thick decals. Just lightly sand or polish out the seam after the paint dries.

[stork100]

One thing I've had some good success with is using a solution of white glue/PVA thinned down with water, a proviso being that the product actually dries clear. Brushed on and ensuring to get plenty underneath the surface, this acts as a softener and setter. Sucks everything down into the panel lines, adheres well to the surface and won't dissolve your decal. It may leave some slight visible residue on the surrounds which can easily be mopped up with water and a cotton bud or such. Then if you don't like the position or something after it's dried, just add water! Finally spray the clear coat of your choice for the final finish. A cheap and practical alternative to the myriad of specialty products. Worth a few tests if you have some spare decals lying around.

[Onkel Neal]

Stork, I will try that, thanks! Seems the decals on my 25 year old kit are exploding when I try to transfer them from the backing paper.

[ajrimmer42]

Originally Posted by ET2SN

Wait a minute, are you talking about X-20 ("enamel") or X-20A ("acrylic")?
Tamiya's chemistry has always been a little "out there" in terms of being potent , but I've always associated decal film with lacquer based paints.

Which begs the question, has anyone tried to use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement on really stubborn decals? I've thought about it but have never had the courage to actually try it.

X-20A Acrylic thinners, it works amazingly well! I have also heard of using Tamiya Extra Thin on really stubborn decals but I've never plucked up the courage!

Originally Posted by stork100

One thing I've had some good success with is using a solution of white glue/PVA thinned down with water, a proviso being that the product actually dries clear. Brushed on and ensuring to get plenty underneath the surface, this acts as a softener and setter. Sucks everything down into the panel lines, adheres well to the surface and won't dissolve your decal. It may leave some slight visible residue on the surrounds which can easily be mopped up with water and a cotton bud or such. Then if you don't like the position or something after it's dried, just add water! Finally spray the clear coat of your choice for the final finish. A cheap and practical alternative to the myriad of specialty products. Worth a few tests if you have some spare decals lying around.

Sounds like a good idea, I'm fairly sure the VMS Decal Setting solution I use at the moment it basically just a very mild adhesive so I can see how watered down PVA would work. I have used Johnson's Klear in a pinch too.

Originally Posted by Onkel Neal

Stork, I will try that, thanks! Seems the decals on my 25 year old kit are exploding when I try to transfer them from the backing paper.

Try giving the decals a coat of Microscale Decal Film, that should prevent them from breaking up.