Dragon Models 1/350 Ohio class submarine w/ launching missile build - Page 2

Onkel Neal · 04-22-22, 11:19 AM

Right now I'm stuck trying to eliminate the seam where the two hull halves meet. About ready to say good enough and start painting. How much time do you spend on seams? I've tried AK grey putty, Tamiya white putty, Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer, and adding super thin cement to flush the two surfaces. Still, after I add a coat of primer, there's the seam.

ET2SN · 04-22-22, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Onkel Neal

Yeah!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26552792550...wAAOSwxlJfaqIv

ordered

mapuc · 04-25-22, 04:26 PM

If I one day should be a owner of a 3D printer I'm most likely going to build this model

https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-mo...-viid-3d-print

Markus

Onkel Neal · 05-07-22, 05:31 PM

Back on the Ohio, well, the base and missile launch setup, not the model (yet).

I took a Stanley 100-pack razor box. modified it a bit, drilled a hole and added my launch button. It will be attached to a wooden base, where the sound module, speaker, and batteries will be.

Next, work on the seam some more and then start painting and assembling the model to the base.

Onkel Neal · 05-11-22, 05:16 PM

Tested the circuits and switch, worked great. So, installed everything in the base and added a 1/8" plexiglass cover to hold it in place.

Now, just need to paint the sub, mount everything, and then start working on the missile mount and smoke.

ET2SN · 05-11-22, 07:57 PM

Is it too late to add a key switch (and key) as the main power switch?

All kidding aside, its looking good.

Onkel Neal · 05-12-22, 05:34 AM

Lol, good idea!

ET2SN · 05-12-22, 02:14 PM

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a11112...%2C289&sr=8-14

BTW, remember to order a lanyard to go around your neck for one key or Gene Hackman might get very angry.

Onkel Neal · 05-12-22, 05:24 PM

I'll have to do that on my next missile launch model, I didn't leave myself room on the console.

Onkel Neal · 05-13-22, 08:01 AM

Well, I went around the whole sub and sanded on the seam between the vertical scribed lines, hoping to diminish the seam without marring the lines too much.

Reprimed the model last night, the seam still seems pretty evident.

Sigh. Any suggestions? Should I add filler along the entire line and sand? Wet sand? Move on and paint it?

mapuc · 05-13-22, 09:11 AM

I say use a plastic filler with a colour as close as possible to the main colour on the sub.

Since it's only this small line that needs to be covered I say use a small spatula knife and use very little filler at each moment.

Let it dry and then sand with a toothbrush covered with sandpaper..Starting with low numbers and end with high numbers. low E.g 250/300. High E.g 900/1000.

It doesn't look beautiful this line going all the way around the sub. It somehow destroy the look of it. And you want your model look as realistic as possible.

I also recommend you use this tool after sanding

https://www.scalemodellingnow.com/hn...ll-rivet-maker

Markus

ET2SN · 05-13-22, 12:52 PM

On that kit, the seam is what builds character.

I just looked at mine and something that always bugged me is the vertical scribed lines, there's way too many of them.

Anyway, have you considered brewing your own "sprue goo"? Get a fresh bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin glue then chop up all the sprues that came in the kit and add them to the bottle of glue. Keep adding sprue and stir up the goop until you get something with the consistency of putty. Use that as your filler and you won't have to deal with putty shrinking six months down the road or filler that dries harder than the plastic.

Another possibility is using Tamiya's white or gray primer in the square bottle. This is a fairly "hot" lacquer primer that has a consistency that's just short of Testor's tube glue. Make sure its fully cured before you start to sand it.

My other idea is to find Tamiya's plastic putty in the tube. I'm pretty sure this stuff is "sprue goo" made from white plastic. I had really good results using this stuff on the sleeper of an Italeri Peterbilt truck (these kits were infamous for having "short shots" in the plastic).

Anyway, keep calm and keep sanding.

Those vertical scribed lines in the hull still bug me and I'd suggest finding pictures of the real article to make sure they are there.

Onkel Neal · 05-13-22, 01:15 PM

All right, okay, thank for the constructive suggestions. I will keep working on the seam. Marcus, you're right, I think having that seem does ruin the look, so I will take the weekend off from modeling and pick up Monday.

I like your sprue glue idea, that sounds like fun just making it

mapuc · 05-13-22, 05:16 PM

Do you have some extra model parts from this extra sub you bought ?

If so then practice either my recommendation or ET2SN recommendation

´cause it would be sad if your made mistake on your model.

Markus

ET2SN · 05-13-22, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Onkel Neal

that sounds like fun just making it

Just don't sniff it while its cooking.

04-25-22, 04:26 PM	#18
mapuc CINC Pacific Fleet Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Denmark Posts: 20,535 Downloads: 37 Uploads: 0	If I one day should be a owner of a 3D printer I'm most likely going to build this model https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-mo...-viid-3d-print Markus __________________ My little lovely female cat

05-12-22, 05:34 AM	#22
Onkel Neal Born to Run Silent Join Date: Jan 1997 Location: Cougar Trap, Texas Posts: 21,383 Downloads: 541 Uploads: 224	Lol, good idea! __________________ SUBSIM - 26 Years on the Web

05-12-22, 02:14 PM	#23
ET2SN Ocean Warrior Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 2,652 Downloads: 60 Uploads: 0	https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a11112...%2C289&sr=8-14 BTW, remember to order a lanyard to go around your neck for one key or Gene Hackman might get very angry. Last edited by ET2SN; 05-12-22 at 02:33 PM.

05-12-22, 05:24 PM	#24
Onkel Neal Born to Run Silent Join Date: Jan 1997 Location: Cougar Trap, Texas Posts: 21,383 Downloads: 541 Uploads: 224	I'll have to do that on my next missile launch model, I didn't leave myself room on the console. __________________ SUBSIM - 26 Years on the Web

05-13-22, 09:11 AM	#26
mapuc CINC Pacific Fleet Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Denmark Posts: 20,535 Downloads: 37 Uploads: 0	I say use a plastic filler with a colour as close as possible to the main colour on the sub. Since it's only this small line that needs to be covered I say use a small spatula knife and use very little filler at each moment. Let it dry and then sand with a toothbrush covered with sandpaper..Starting with low numbers and end with high numbers. low E.g 250/300. High E.g 900/1000. It doesn't look beautiful this line going all the way around the sub. It somehow destroy the look of it. And you want your model look as realistic as possible. I also recommend you use this tool after sanding https://www.scalemodellingnow.com/hn...ll-rivet-maker Markus __________________ My little lovely female cat

05-11-22, 07:57 PM	#21
ET2SN Ocean Warrior Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 2,652 Downloads: 60 Uploads: 0	Is it too late to add a key switch (and key) as the main power switch? All kidding aside, its looking good.

05-13-22, 12:52 PM	#27
ET2SN Ocean Warrior Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 2,652 Downloads: 60 Uploads: 0	On that kit, the seam is what builds character. I just looked at mine and something that always bugged me is the vertical scribed lines, there's way too many of them. Anyway, have you considered brewing your own "sprue goo"? Get a fresh bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin glue then chop up all the sprues that came in the kit and add them to the bottle of glue. Keep adding sprue and stir up the goop until you get something with the consistency of putty. Use that as your filler and you won't have to deal with putty shrinking six months down the road or filler that dries harder than the plastic. Another possibility is using Tamiya's white or gray primer in the square bottle. This is a fairly "hot" lacquer primer that has a consistency that's just short of Testor's tube glue. Make sure its fully cured before you start to sand it. My other idea is to find Tamiya's plastic putty in the tube. I'm pretty sure this stuff is "sprue goo" made from white plastic. I had really good results using this stuff on the sleeper of an Italeri Peterbilt truck (these kits were infamous for having "short shots" in the plastic). Anyway, keep calm and keep sanding. Those vertical scribed lines in the hull still bug me and I'd suggest finding pictures of the real article to make sure they are there.

05-13-22, 01:15 PM	#28
Onkel Neal Born to Run Silent Join Date: Jan 1997 Location: Cougar Trap, Texas Posts: 21,383 Downloads: 541 Uploads: 224	All right, okay, thank for the constructive suggestions. I will keep working on the seam. Marcus, you're right, I think having that seem does ruin the look, so I will take the weekend off from modeling and pick up Monday. I like your sprue glue idea, that sounds like fun just making it __________________ SUBSIM - 26 Years on the Web

05-13-22, 05:16 PM	#29
mapuc CINC Pacific Fleet Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Denmark Posts: 20,535 Downloads: 37 Uploads: 0	Do you have some extra model parts from this extra sub you bought ? If so then practice either my recommendation or ET2SN recommendation ´cause it would be sad if your made mistake on your model. Markus __________________ My little lovely female cat