Modeling Resources

[ET2SN]

What I wanted was this kit:



That Beemax/nunu Porsche 935 K3 has been tough to find in the US.

This does bring up where you buy your kits and supplies, however.

If you have a local hobby shop, by all means support them.
If you've found a good on-line source and you can trust them, work with that.
If you find a sketchy web store, its usually best to move along.

Amazon and EBay- I mostly use them to get a good handle on what kits and supplies are available and what they are worth. Both can have their downsides. I still don't understand the EBay idea of bidding on everything. Likewise, Amazon seems to embrace the context that EVERYTHING MUST GO!! Discounts are fine but they are also a quick way to totally gut the hobby. If a manufacturer is willing to take a hit on their bottom line just to clear out some stock, what are you really buying?

I do this stuff as a hobby. I expect to pay some kind of premium to get the stuff I want. I don't mind paying for quality as long as I'm not getting ripped off and its something I really want to build.

With the Beemax Porsche kit, I wanted to build it at some point but it wasn't an obsession and I knew availability in the US was the tough part. Seeing it on the web site I later removed just let me know that the kit was available again but then things got sketchy really fast and I bailed out.

I checked on Amazon to figure out what was going on and found it available from a Japanese source for about $60 including shipping.
Due to the availability issues with this kit, I figured now (when I knew I could order it) would be the right time and it should be showing up sometime before the end of the month.

[ET2SN]

Meanwhile, a couple of new sources.
This post concentrates on Indycars, F1, and sportscars in 1/20th and 1/24th scale.
These links are meant more for advanced builders who want to wander off the reservation a bit and build something really different. The links look good as far as I can tell, BUT I haven't ordered from them. Pay attention to stuff like billing and shipping, if its starting to feel like you're giving money to a guy in a van in a parking garage- you'll probably want to move along.


https://classicracingresins.com/products/

This guy posts his builds on YouTube and also sells resin parts. Located "somewhere in the US" he also seems to provide Int'l billing and shipping.


https://indycals.net/

Located near Indianapolis, the concentration is on cars that ran at the Speedway. However, also a nice concentration on F1, sportscars, rally, etc. "Everything but NASCAR".
Not the typical decals you may know. These are printed "as needed" on a solid sheet of clear decal paper. So, plan ahead for some lead time as your decals get printed and then shipped. Plan, as well, to do some fancy cutting once they arrive.


EDIT- Updates the URL for Classic Racing Resins. Keep an eye out for more info and a short review once my mail gets delivered.

[mapuc]

Here is a model of an Old classic car from 1924 and you get two famous comedian with the models.

Looking at the face of these two made me recall another thread here about faces and colours.

https://www.infinitestatue.com/gb/st...model-kit.html

Here's a guy talking and doing some modelling of the model



Markus

[ET2SN]

Some of the more advanced things you'll want on hand.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...t_b_prod_image

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...t_b_prod_image

Having a good assortment of miniature machine and self-tapping screws on the shelf can save your more ambitious projects. Fixing die-casts is obvious but there are times (scratch building, control panels, lighting, dioramas, etc.) when you don't want to reach for a glue gun or a tube of super glue.

This is the best way to stick two things together that have never been stuck together before. Its also cheaper in the long run than buying old watches on EBay and stripping them down for parts.

[ET2SN]

Something that just showed up and looks very promising:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU99K6E...roduct_details

These are 6" X 9" self stick mirrors made of Mylar and bonded to clear (rigid ) plastic.
There's a peel off backing on the glue side and another to protect the clear plastic from scratches.
The mirrors look like the real thing.
The only downside is the clear plastic is slightly thick (about 1 mm) but it gives a very accurate look for larger scale projects ( probably 1/18th scale at the smallest to 1/8th scale cars and bikes).

To use them, just transfer the pattern of your mirror to the sheet and cut it out using sharp scissors. The edge can then be sanded smooth and you can then use a black or green Sharpie pen or acrylic paint to add some extra detail. Very easy to handle besides the backing and protection sheets.

So, why is it a big deal? This stuff looks like a flat mirror, not some Mylar tape or chromed plastic. You get a more pronounced 3D effect plus a fairly sharp mirror image. Like I said before, for larger scale projects this stuff is a no-brainer.

The "self stick" part is my only real concern. Its a tacky glue that may not hold up over time, but it can be removed carefully using salad oil and a rag.

A little expensive for what they are but at least you don't have to buy 20 square yards of material to get a 2 inch piece. The three 6" X 9" sheets should last a long time in your scratch building drawer.

Edit- They would also be great for building a custom display base.

[ET2SN]

Before I forget again:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FWZNCWJ...roduct_details

Fixed cleats for your modern 1/350th scale submarines.

If you've ever built the Hobby Boss 688 family of kits, you know how much of a pain it is to glue the plastic fixed cleats in place. This is 100 times easier.

You'll need a fine metal file, a small pair of strong nippers, a pin vise and micro drill bits and six shirt pins. Drill out the mounting holes on the hull using a 74 gauge/ 0.0225 drill bit. Using your pin vise handle, chuck up a shirt pin so its easier to work on. Cut two opposite sides of the head of the shirt pin so it starts to look like a US football. File and sand to get the final shape. Trim off the point of the shirt pin, leaving most of the pin intact.

Stick the pin in one of your drilled holes on the hull then add a dot glue to the pin before you position it, then paint.

Shirt pins have hundreds of uses in modeling, from adding strength to delicate/fiddly assemblies to adding antennas to model cars, you can even use the cleat trick to make a nifty removeable air cleaner on the engine of your model car.

[ET2SN]

This resource is specialized for die-cast models and is also "US Only".

It happens, you buy a die cast car and that "factory finish" got some shipping/packaging rash or an Oops happened and you wound up with a paint ding.



Fixing it, as long as it isn't metallic paint, is pretty straight forward. Just find some paint that matches your die-cast and get ready to do some polishing. Getting that paint to match can be tricky, however.

https://www.ebay.com/usr/mbiauto?mke...&ul_noapp=true


Or, search for MBIAUTO.com.



MBI is located near Grand Rapids, Mi. and specializes in auto paint. They are also handy if your 1/1th scale ride has suffered some rock chips and you want to fix it in your garage. Their main page on EBay has a really handy drop-down menu to verify your paint code and if you can find it, they can mix it. You can also buy quarts and gallons if you're planning something more ambitious.



I haven't included you folks who build styrene plastic models, yet. My two 1 oz. bottles of paint ( packed in a 2 oz. plastic bottle with a small brush built into the cap ) showed up today (Thursday) after placing the order on EBay on Monday, so order and turn-around time to the Mid West is fast. I haven't opened the bottles yet, but a sniff test tells me this stuff is an enamel rather than a "hotter" lacquer. I'll test some on some styrene later and update this post if it works. I paid $8 US for each 1 oz. bottle of paint, shipping included. Not exactly cheap ( by hobby paint standards ) but its better than taking your chances at WalMart or Auto Zone or Hobby Lobby.

But does the new paint match?
This is trickier than than you might guess. That die-cast car you bought may claim to use "authentic" colors, but if it was assembled somewhere in Asia, what did they really use? Well, there's only one way to find out and at least you'll be somewhere in the ball park.

I ordered two bottles, Torch Red ( Ford paint code D3 ) for the Mustang that donated some parts to the Shelby GT 350 ( I need to fix some "package rash" on a front fender and to fill in the spots where the shock tower brace used to sit) and Performance White (paint code HP ) for the Shelby to fix some flaws and some minor cracking/peeling between the body and the (plastic) aero skirts.

More, later.




Update- So far, the results are .. OK?

The bottles are shipped with a wrapping of packaging tape around them. A good solution for shipping paint but a total pain in the to remove.

This stuff is definitely a thick enamel with a vague whiff of Alkyd based paint. It isn't Plasticote but its close. Thinning it down might be tricky (definitely check with MBI before you start throwing hobby-based reducer/thinner at it) and I would think a LOT before pouring it in a good airbrush. Still..
Coverage is good for an enamel and I found a test mule in an old AMT truck kit that was a parts donor to test this paint directly on styrene plastic. This kit was one of the "old school" truck re-issues with the harder white plastic. I applied a fairly thick wad of the Performance White with the included brush and things look.. OK? so far. No signs of the plastic reacting or going soft but I did notice the paint acting a little weird and "pitting" in some small spots. More than likely, its due to some surface contamination on the plastic (I didn't clean or prep the part and its been sitting out in the open for several years) or its just the nature of the built-in brush. This stuff does act like an old-school thick enamel so plan on the standard long drying and curing time (days and weeks for a full cure). If you're familiar with the term "out gassing", you have a pretty good handle on what this stuff is.

Color matching- The Performance White isn't a perfect match on the Shelby. From a distance it looks fine but up-close the paint looks more like a Wimbledon (canvas) white than a pure white. There are defiantly some slight gray and tan tones in the new paint. Which one is right? Who knows?? Its defiantly a closer match to the Wimbledon white on my 1969 "Shinoda" Boss 302 Mustang die cast, which is immaculate, so I won't be testing it further.
My gut told me when I first got the Shelby that the paint was more of a "pure" white than a "Ford" white so I'll probably have more luck if I march into the hardware store.

The Torch Red on the Greenlight Mustang is freaking perfect, so go figure..

So, pluses- Relatively cheap and I'll give MBI the nod on color matching paint codes. Fast, free delivery when ordered from EBay. If this stuff turns into a rock while its sitting on the shelf, don't sweat it. Just order another bottle. Will probably respond well to polishing compounds and buffing once its fully cured. This paint is very handy for what it is, as long as you know what you're getting into. Doesn't seem to react badly to the harder grades of styrene plastic, but I would always test it prior to use.

Minuses- I wouldn't get this stuff within one city block of your fancy airbrush unless you really hate yourself. This isn't acrylic or hobby grade enamel, its more like a thick alkyd-based no-shirt paint. Even if you thin it down, its still going to act like glue until it dries and then you'll be totally screwed. Full drying and curing time is probably measured in weeks, so don't be in a hurry.
For brushes, think "disposable". From my experience, forget about thinning this stuff down to "like milk", the pigment will start to break down long before you get there.

So, "recommended" for us gray hairs or if you're new and want to experience the "good old days" of throwing enamel paint.
Seriously, not recommended if you know only the current types of model paint. Recommended strongly for the advanced builder/collector (us old farts) who want accurate colors, forget ever having to say "Its supposed to be Hugger Blue, that isn't Hugger Blue!". For the model car builders, know what you're getting into. This stuff is a pain to lay down, it takes forever to cure, and you're going to invest a lot of time in polishing and buffing it out. But at least the colors and the finish will be accurate.