Have any of you painted any figures?

[ET2SN]

Originally Posted by Eichhörnchen

More white for a smaller 54mm figure because you want to be thinking about 'scale colour' too

This concept could be a topic all on it's own, but would you consider expanding on it?

For example, if you were painting a large "bust" type of figure, how would that be different than painting smaller figures? Should you add highlights and shadows at all?

As another example, if you were painting a 1/35th scale diorama of a tank and its crew, should the figures be 'weathered' just like the equipment or should the figures look more 'natural', possibly looking like someone else painted them?

These are leading questions and I have my own theories , but I would really like to see what you think.

[ET2SN]

Speaking of figures, check out the first kit Andy reviews:




Its Aktungbby's office from Gray Wolves.


The scale (1/16th) of this kit is going to be weird. With the span of the rotors, the kit will always be one ping pong ball away from disaster.

[Eichhörnchen]

Originally Posted by ET2SN

This concept could be a topic all on it's own, but would you consider expanding on it?

For example, if you were painting a large "bust" type of figure, how would that be different than painting smaller figures? Should you add highlights and shadows at all?

As another example, if you were painting a 1/35th scale diorama of a tank and its crew, should the figures be 'weathered' just like the equipment or should the figures look more 'natural', possibly looking like someone else painted them?

These are leading questions and I have my own theories , but I would really like to see what you think.

I just work on the idea that the smaller the scale the "further away" the thing should seem, so I use lighter tones

As for figures, I don't dry-brush highlights as this can often be overdone and looks false. However, dry-brushing a lighter colour to imitate weathering is different, plus I do use dark washes to show up relief detail (see the hands and boots on these Airfix US Marines)



Just by the by, for the straps on helmets and guns etc like here, I use the soft metal from collapsible paint tubes or wine bottle necks as it's easy to coax into 'hanging' right

[ET2SN]

This is a pretty good demonstration.



You'll want to turn on captions even though a lot of it translates like "alliteration" and I still don't like Tamiya's "flesh" as a base coat, but its a good process he's following.

My one critique is that, over all, I think the shading is too much. There's "scale effect" and then there's "going overboard".

[ET2SN]

So, I'm trying something new after reading about it years ago.

This time, I'm starting with a solid base coat of Tamiya Wooden Deck Tan (acrylic XF-78) then letting it fully dry before I use different colors from the Vallejo Face and Skintones set as highlights. Tamiya acrylics are fairly durable even when painted directly over plastic and the Deck Tan just gives a better "feel" as a base coat than their "flesh tone".
Since I'm mostly working on 1/24th scale figures, I can't go too far overboard in terms of multiple (primary) color washes or under-skin "mottling" so this will be a fairly basic process of base coat, under tones, and highlights. The Deck Tan is already slightly dark and has a nice combination of yellows, reds, and blues that I can build on.

I'll let you know how it works out.