Dragon Models 1/350 Ohio class submarine w/ launching missile build

Onkel Neal · 04-16-22, 06:53 AM

Yes, agreed, I am setting up the missile launch FX to be detachable as well.

I drilled out the hole where the original stand goes and through a missile tube for the wiring.

I'll use a piece of sprue for the missile support.

Onkel Neal · 04-18-22, 02:23 PM

Got the hull together and finally gotten all the little missile hatches assembled, nerve-wracking business.

Next, will put the shellback and hatches on the hull and primer, fix any bad seams or putty issues (my bane) and paint.

Meanwhile, I've got the sound module and LED set up. Found a few rocket launching, missile launched mp3s, will mix them for the prefect sound fx.

Also started working on the base.

ET2SN · 04-20-22, 01:03 PM

Hey Neal, before I forget again:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/mulsannemik...1&_ipg=&_from=

Grab a couple of screws for your boomer.

Very detailed, very accurate, but very delicate (which is why you'll want two).

Onkel Neal · 04-21-22, 07:25 AM

Yeah!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26552792550...wAAOSwxlJfaqIv

ordered

ET2SN · 04-22-22, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Onkel Neal

Yeah!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26552792550...wAAOSwxlJfaqIv

ordered

mapuc · 04-25-22, 04:26 PM

If I one day should be a owner of a 3D printer I'm most likely going to build this model

https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-mo...-viid-3d-print

Markus

Onkel Neal · 05-07-22, 05:31 PM

Back on the Ohio, well, the base and missile launch setup, not the model (yet).

I took a Stanley 100-pack razor box. modified it a bit, drilled a hole and added my launch button. It will be attached to a wooden base, where the sound module, speaker, and batteries will be.

Next, work on the seam some more and then start painting and assembling the model to the base.

fireftr18 · 05-19-22, 10:20 AM

Can't wait to see it.

Jeff-Groves · 05-20-22, 06:54 PM

I'll offer a bit of advise if you don't mind.

Before you Glue section like that together? Bevel the outside edges a bit.
Then any filler will be easier to work with to hide the seam.

Onkel Neal · 05-21-22, 08:35 AM

Bevel, huh? That makes sense.
Also had a guy tell me uses glue all around the seam when joining and depends on having some squeeze out, then scrapes/sands the joint flush. Have not tried that yet.

Back in the paint booth for the 3rd time, still seeing a seam

04-21-22, 07:25 AM	#4
Onkel Neal Born to Run Silent Join Date: Jan 1997 Location: Cougar Trap, Texas Posts: 21,385 Downloads: 541 Uploads: 224	Yeah! https://www.ebay.com/itm/26552792550...wAAOSwxlJfaqIv ordered __________________ SUBSIM - 26 Years on the Web

04-25-22, 04:26 PM	#6
mapuc CINC Pacific Fleet Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Denmark Posts: 20,537 Downloads: 37 Uploads: 0	If I one day should be a owner of a 3D printer I'm most likely going to build this model https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-mo...-viid-3d-print Markus __________________ My little lovely female cat

05-19-22, 10:20 AM	#8
fireftr18 Ocean Warrior Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Kentucky Posts: 2,528 Downloads: 77 Uploads: 0	Can't wait to see it. __________________ Of all the forms of Martial Arts, Karaoke causes the most pain!

04-20-22, 01:03 PM	#3
ET2SN Ocean Warrior Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 2,652 Downloads: 60 Uploads: 0	Hey Neal, before I forget again: https://www.ebay.com/sch/mulsannemik...1&_ipg=&_from= Grab a couple of screws for your boomer. Very detailed, very accurate, but very delicate (which is why you'll want two).

05-20-22, 06:54 PM	#9
Jeff-Groves GLOBAL MODDING TERRORIST Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 5,650 Downloads: 137 Uploads: 0	I'll offer a bit of advise if you don't mind. Before you Glue section like that together? Bevel the outside edges a bit. Then any filler will be easier to work with to hide the seam.