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#1 |
Chief of the Boat
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#2 |
Soaring
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Those sticky pad mounts last until they no longer last. And drop.
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If you feel nuts, consult an expert. |
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#3 | |
Fleet Admiral
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Mine are AC powered with Battery back up. I do have to confess that I had one smoke detector just hanging from the AC power connection for way too long. ![]()
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abusus non tollit usum - A right should NOT be withheld from people on the basis that some tend to abuse that right. |
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#4 |
Fleet Admiral
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![]() Have you considered using some industrial Velcro? Some of the ones you can order from industrial supply companies hold very firmly but will release when a screwdriver type tool is used to pry them apart while the adhesive ain't goin no where! Fun fact about Velcro type products: Velcro grips harder when the materials are vibrated. This is different than many other fasteners. At least one US car manufacturer was using very special velcro type fasteners to attach bumper components as they found it better, cheaper, and more secure than more traditional fasteners. (maybe I should put this in the Useless Facts thread. ![]()
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abusus non tollit usum - A right should NOT be withheld from people on the basis that some tend to abuse that right. |
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#5 | ||
Chief of the Boat
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#6 |
GLOBAL MODDING TERRORIST
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The easy way to prevent the sticky tape smoke alarms from coming loose.
Get the round cover plates from a junction box and use screws to attach it. Then mount the box with sticky tape to it. It will hold nearly forever! To remove the alarm plate? A thin wire like a piano wire will cut through the sticky tape. Then scrape with a razor knife if needed. Now those of us in the Construction trades use a self made Hot knife to remove that tape. |
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#7 |
Ace of the Deep
![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,194
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I have to deal with 116 smoke detectors on a yearly basis, 2 things I've found, Use the sealed battery type (smoke detectors need to be changed out every 10 years due to sensor life, and tenants can't remove the battery). And use the plastic screw-in drywall anchors to mount them (most detectors have mounting plates with universal mounting holes to accommodate different anchor widths). so it becomes a simple matter of loosening the screws, replacing the mounting plate, and tightening the screws.
If you use double sided tape, use the 1" tape by 3m (not the double sided mounting squares) it's rated for 30 lbs per inch and will be good for years. You can also use pure silicone, it's adhesive (on everything from glass to brick), stays flexible, and removal is easy when heated with a heat gun or hair dryer. |
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#8 |
Lucky Jack
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Glad you got them. They work! Do these also detect CO? If so, great. CO detectors are a lifesaver.
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“You're painfully alive in a drugged and dying culture.” ― Richard Yates, Revolutionary Road |
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#9 |
Fleet Admiral
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I also have dedicated CO detectors for the critical areas.
CO ain't COol.
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abusus non tollit usum - A right should NOT be withheld from people on the basis that some tend to abuse that right. |
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#10 |
The Old Man
![]() Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,304
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Oh! Oh! Describe that process.
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-Arlo |
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#11 |
GLOBAL MODDING TERRORIST
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Here's something that is real close to what I have made.
https://www.amazon.com/HORUSDY-Cutte...921TY9H6&psc=1 What I do is put a small groove in the top of the spreader bars so the wire is much closer to the top so there's almost no space left to scrape the tape. |
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#12 | |
Born to Run Silent
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Thanks, good point. ![]()
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