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SUBSIM: The Web's #1 resource for all submarine & naval simulations since 1997 |
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#1 |
Sea Lord
![]() Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,690
Downloads: 30
Uploads: 0
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Thanks for the reply! Version is 0.24c bought on Steam. I kind of forgot about this (real life and all) but now when I started it up again, with bots and then without, I don't sink anymore. Another thing is the bots can't seem to get me to periscope depth unless I manually set the trim tanks They will get me to about 8.5-9 meters but that's it. The sinking was persistent when I first started the game after setting everything up in Options but now, with the same settings, the sinking stopped.
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#2 |
Born to Run Silent
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Yeah, with bots I would not touch the trim tanks, you shouldn't have to. And when at PD, be sure to have a little way on you, anything short of full stop should make it easier to maintain depth.
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#3 |
Sea Lord
![]() Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,690
Downloads: 30
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I have a few questions still
When the game starts now, all the tanks except the trim are all empty, that is with no water in them. The trim tank starts at a random level, usually between 6-8 m^3. Is this intentional? Are the trim and negative tanks somehow mixed up or am I getting this entirely wrong?: With only the main tanks filled, the boat settles at around 7.5 m. With mains and negative filled, the boat settles at around 8.5 meters. With negative empty and trim tank full, the boat sinks rapidly and no adjustment on the negative tank will stop the decent. Everywhere I read, it says it is the negative that should cause the descent, not the trim tank. What is going on here? What would a proper tank/valve operation look like for various scenarios like surfacing, diving, crash diving, holding depth and so on? Last edited by Von Due; 10-23-20 at 08:00 AM. Reason: typo |
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#4 | |
Grey Wolf
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Always travel on the surface with negative full. Once aircraft are put in, you will be glad you got in that habit. Don’t bother with the trim tank when you first spawn. To dive, Switch to electric, great speed ahead, open the vents forward and aft, forward planes hard down, aft center, standby negative, as soon as I can visibly see the boat angling down at the negative station, I blow negative (8-10 meters). Once past 20 m, 10° up on forward, 15 up on aft, til the boat is about 3 to 4° angled up, then 15 on fwd and reapproach periscope depth from below, at dead slow. Close vents. Center the planes. Then trim. For trimming, make very fine adjustments to the two wheels until the rightmost dial stays perfectly stationary. To surface, change depth with the planes dynamically up to periscope depth at half speed, do your scope check, then great speed ahead, blow ballast, hard up on forward, aft up five, refill negative while blowing. At your option, you could do it historically and stop blowing as soon as the tower hatch comes free, so that you could pop up topside and check and make sure all is clear, and if it is, order to finish blowing, switch to diesel, recenter the planes, compressor, charge.
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Ask me anything about the Type VII or IX! One-Stop Targeting Shop: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WwBt-1vjW28JbO My YT Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIJ...9FXbD3S2kgwdPQ Last edited by derstosstrupp; 10-23-20 at 08:50 AM. |
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#5 |
Silent Hunter
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: AN9771
Posts: 4,904
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The negative tank is only 4 cubic meters. It is intended to make you sink, hence 'negative' buoyancy. The trim tank is 15 cubic meters in size maximum. So if the trim tank is filled to the max, by adding 7-9 cubic meters (on top of the nominal starting level of 6-8 cubic meters) this is essentially the same as filling the negative tank and an extra one. This will make you sink anyhow if the ballast tanks are filled. Maybe slower if the neutral trimtank-level would be at 8. But none the less. Filling the negative tank on top of that only makes it sink faster.
The trim tank at the beginning should be close to the level that makes you neutrally buoyant when the ballast tanks are filled and have neutral diveplanes. Negative tank helps you dive a bit more quickly. As Stosstrupp indicated, for when there is an alarm situation and have planes or destroyers bearing down on you. As for why you sank immediately in the tutorial mode is a mystery to me. Should not have happened unless you have a stowaway player onboard that messed up your tanks when you were not looking. Or accidentally ordered the dive bot to deep waters.
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My site downloads: https://ricojansen.nl/downloads |
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#6 |
Sea Lord
![]() Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,690
Downloads: 30
Uploads: 0
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Thanks heaps for the reply, guys. Really appreciated!
So, the negative tank is more to add that little extra, kind of what I believed the trim tank would be for but it must be true then: I got the roles of the trim and the negative mixed up. For now, my sessions are hidden, for 2 reasons. One is I am learning and my way of doing that must be torture for action hungry guest crew. One station at the time and right now I'm trying to work out how to be a good navigator. 2nd reason is, from my rc sim sessions online some years back, I got used to jerks popping in just to ruin the fun for everybody else so until I have this down well enough not to drive my fellow crew members crazy with my ineptitude, and a mic, so I can join a proper boat somewhere, I'll remain hidden. |
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#7 | |
Grey Wolf
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https://discord.gg/dN38NG
__________________
Ask me anything about the Type VII or IX! One-Stop Targeting Shop: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WwBt-1vjW28JbO My YT Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIJ...9FXbD3S2kgwdPQ |
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