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Old 06-04-20, 07:45 AM   #1
Fifi
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In fact, ship ID book is only useful to me to get ship length for getting estimate speed with U-Jagd. When i don’t have time to identify the one i want in a convoy, i take one easily identified and get its speed for all the others.
If ship is alone and can’t identify him, i guess its length (up to 100m/150m/200m) for U-Jagd, and compare the different speed given by U-Jagd to match reality.
Don’t need really the distance to target as i always try to be close around 1000m.
AOB is the easiest to estimate when i know the ship course (via the AOB dial)
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Old 06-04-20, 09:29 AM   #2
Aquelarrefox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fifi View Post
In fact, ship ID book is only useful to me to get ship length for getting estimate speed with U-Jagd. When i don’t have time to identify the one i want in a convoy, i take one easily identified and get its speed for all the others.
If ship is alone and can’t identify him, i guess its length (up to 100m/150m/200m) for U-Jagd, and compare the different speed given by U-Jagd to match reality.
Don’t need really the distance to target as i always try to be close around 1000m.
AOB is the easiest to estimate when i know the ship course (via the AOB dial)
Yes, about height I forget to mention that game doesn't model ships position related to cargoload or free/ballast. In real world your could have several meters of distance in several cargo ships. Passenger didn't should be affected by this, like warships variation should be less.
I'm doing striving similar as you mentioned, I try to make 3 bearing with the disc, it's fast way to get course, even better than pair course speed.
I will try to make the pages for caws for my roster, if you want I could send you fifi .
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Old 06-04-20, 09:49 PM   #3
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I only find a recognition manual like the used in game for us navy for japanese merchant Navy, witch was shorter than the mfm u boats should sunk.

They could use the stadimeter as in vanilla.I'm some points sh4 is much accurate.
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Old 06-05-20, 01:53 PM   #4
Pisces
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Ships had different levels of loading so the height of the mast cannot be fully relied on anyway because it might sit deeper or higher in the water on different voyages. Sure, it's not modeled in the game. But with all kind of undocumented mods you can't be sure either without controlled testing.

The only way you can accurately use the stadimeter/range finder is by comparing it to an earlier occasion before. To check if you get closer or further. If you got to close then shells start flying or escorts become anxious. You'll know soon enough. Until then, maintain the save distance you have at that point. You don't need the exact mastheight or whatever structure for it, just observe the size. If it becomes larger is has closed on you. If it is smaller it is further way. Depending on what side you are of it, it indicates if your speed or course is matching. If you are on the side of it, steady bearing indicates matched speed, constant distance indicates matched course. Don't turn when you are matching speed alongside it, or you will screw up the bearing which it needs to catch up to. If you are in front of it, steady bearing indicates proper course, same distance indicates same speed. Gently slide in front of it with minor course differences until AOB shows 0 (symmetric target appearance), then turn to get it on 180. With small course changes your speed will remain steady and not alter the range as quick. Once on the target track (what Stosstrup mentioned) you have position in the future locked down. All it needs is a bearing from aside to fix it to a spot.

The only data that is truely reliable is that of your own boat. So taking the time to match course and speed, by letting the target drift in bearing and diminish/grow in size by the periscope scale, is the most reliable and accurate. Use your own average movement between two points in time: after it was at a certain true bearing and certain distance, make it return to it by your own movement. If you can't set the speed as precise on the dial, then just be approximate and in the end slow down/speed up to let it catch up again. Whenever it does, mark your own plot. Wolfpack has the odometer to measure own movement down to the meter. I believe SH3 has one too, but not with as much resolution (precision). 'Your mileage may vary' (pun intended ) But you can do this based on dead reckoning also if you do real nav. It is the most simple way of target tracking. Anyone with a mk1 eyeball can do it. No math wizardry required other than simple distance over time division and steer in the right direction. And be patient.

p.s. Accuracy means how much a measurement differs from the actual. If the recognition manual value is not correct, accuracy is off. No mater with how many decimals you can get a range from the stadimeter or line measurement tool. Measure range in centimeters/inches versus hunderd meters/yards, that is resolution or precision.
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Last edited by Pisces; 06-05-20 at 02:43 PM.
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