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#1 | |
Navy Seal
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: On a mighty quest for the Stick of Truth
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Quote:
![]() Now, since the report of no oil in the sump area for the pump to pick up and squirt all over everything, it's gotta be a slightly too tight or too dry rod bearing starting to seize on either the up or down stroke. Definitely don't want to fire that puppy up and have it spin out the bearing. It would pay to check them all again with some bearing floss to insure they're within tolerance. Bruce, have you ever had the pleasure of tuning the triple carbs on a '53 Corvette inline six?
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![]() Tomorrow never comes Last edited by Wolferz; 08-10-14 at 03:42 PM. |
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#2 | |
XO
![]() Join Date: May 2013
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When I started to read the OP I thought: "they must have lubed the back of the bearings." But then I read it happens every two turns of the crankshaft - which exonerates the crankshaft and pistons. When I read the distributor shaft is already in, as well as the oil pump, I had very little doubt about who to "bring down town to have a talk". We'll have to wait for an update from Catfish.
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#3 | |
Navy Seal
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: On a mighty quest for the Stick of Truth
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Loose nut behind the wheel?
![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() From the mechanical point of view there will be some resistance expected from the new (unseated) piston rings. With the reported resistance every second turn I suspect a little binding on a piston stroke on either the power stroke or the exhaust stroke. It could also be a bent distributor shaft or a bad tooth on the gears. I've had my mechanics question my diagnostic skills. Usually to their detriment. ![]() OK, so you pulled the left front wheel when I told you the problem is in the right front? You're old enough not to be daft! ![]() ![]() I learned the hard way when my father assisted me with a new radio install on my first car. The radio worked fine...when the turn signals had power applied. ![]() ![]()
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#4 |
Dipped Squirrel Operative
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Hi again,
we already found out about the problem some weeks ago, but since some were interested, here is the problem: ![]() He aligned the teeth carefully, the "Tragbild" (no english word i know, sorry - meant is where the surface-point of the teeth touch the "worm drive") is so that performance will not suffer, and no additional wear will occur. Anyway, the turning-around is now a smooth and even 30 nm, during several revolutions, measured with torque wrench. I think the worst is not bringing the '66 300 kg Coventry grey cast block back to life, but this rear axle. God, what a construction. Thanks and greetings, Catfish |
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#5 |
Navy Seal
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It's kind of hard to tell from that slightly blurry photo but, are a few of those gear teeth missing that tragbild you speak of? Serrations in English I believe. Yes, I can see where that might cause some binding.
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#6 |
Shark above Space Chicken
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Looks to me like it was running up against a too long bolt. On a similar note, I would seriously consider a Pertronix Igniter system to replace the points and condenser. I use one on my Triumph and did so with both VWs I had. No more ignition problems due to a shaft wobble and the timing doesn't change when points wear down. Ignition tune up are just plugs, cap, and rotor exchanges. It also doesn't require any modification to the distributer. Just exchanging parts.
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#7 | |
Navy Seal
![]() Join Date: May 2007
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Quote:
Electronic ignition is the way to go. ![]()
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