Physical Raobf and Attack Disk now available, also usable for Wolfpack

[rolandslaw]

Gents and Ladies: I thought you might like to know the meaning of the German Phrases on the various wheels.
Rad = Wheel; lage rad= Bearing wheel; Peilung rad= Course wheel; Zeit Rad Rack= Time wheel; Lage b. ShuB= location of shot; Kurs = Course; Vorhlat=deriviative; Vorkaltwindrel= lead angle; Einst= one; Gegnerkurse= opponent course; optische Lange= optical (takes into account the ship at an angle to determine compared to physical length of ship;

CyStryker

[rolandslaw]

I took digital copies of templates for the front and back of the disk stored on a thumb drive to Office Depot. I believe the disks are the front and back of the "Attack Disk". The tech was able to print the individual wheels of the two disks based upon a 200 mm maximum diameter. of the outer wheel of each disk. We printed them in color on heavy gloss white stock. They both came out perfectly. I had the transparencies printed to match the size of the wheels. I printed enough material for 4 disks at a cost of $22.00. I need to do the following: I need to find ,.. I think Home Depot has it... acrylic sheets to stiffen up the transparent items, clear glue and a pin system that will pin the wheels in the center that will not tear the paper wheels. I plan on adding the acrylic sheet to the back of the outer wheel in each disk and glue it to the wheel. Please note I did not cut away the pper from the inside of the wheels...including the outer wheels.... So when I glue the acrylic backing it will stiffen the entire disk therefore it should allow me to pick up the disks and hold in a vertical position. After I complete the task I will post the results on line with required info on diameters of each wheel.

I have a riveting device which I think will lend itself nicely to safely pin the wheels of each disk together in the center and allow free movement ( I need to determine what wheels should be fixed and glue that wheel in place). With the rivet I can secure different lengths and diameter rivets... armed with stainless washers I should be able to secure the wheels in the center without damaging the paper wheels.

I still can not find my first disk I made when I first started playing SH3:<)

Roland/CyStryker

[derstosstrupp]

Originally Posted by rolandslaw

Gents and Ladies: I thought you might like to know the meaning of the German Phrases on the various wheels.
Rad = Wheel; lage rad= Bearing wheel; Peilung rad= Course wheel; Zeit Rad Rack= Time wheel; Lage b. ShuB= location of shot; Kurs = Course; Vorhlat=deriviative; Vorkaltwindrel= lead angle; Einst= one; Gegnerkurse= opponent course; optische Lange= optical (takes into account the ship at an angle to determine compared to physical length of ship;

CyStryker

Some corrections to the translations if I may:

Lage Rad = AOB Wheel
Peilung Rad = Bearing Wheel
Lage b. Schuß = AOB at the moment of the shot
Vorhalt = shoot bearing
Vorhaltwinkel = lead angle (gyro angle)
Optische Länge = optical length

[rolandslaw]

Derstrosstrup:

Thank you for feed back.... :<) I will add this to my list I have.

Roland / CyStryker

[derstosstrupp]

Originally Posted by rolandslaw

Derstrosstrup:

Thank you for feed back.... :<) I will add this to my list I have.

Roland / CyStryker

Not a problem, great work here!

[tedh1]

Just ordered the Acrylic Attack Disk, can't wait!

[rolandslaw]

Pisces"

I have made two disks from digital photos provided on this site. The front and back of the Attack Disk?. Are any of the wheels on either or both sides fixed like on the Raobf?

Also... I would like to post photos of my disks.... can you direct me to the thread wherein the "how to" post photos is explained.... can not find it.

The biggest problem I am having is making clean attachments to the "Whiz Wheel" ... the half circle, etc.... I had to go with a thin transparency ... cut the items out... place on a plastic ... clear sheet..... mark the plastic ... and cut with my dremel.... real slow. The clear glue works but now I have smudges on several of my items,....... Is there any way we could have the attachments printed in color on a thicker clear plastic?

I thank you for your considered input in the forums....

Roland / CyStryker

[Pisces]

Originally Posted by rolandslaw

Pisces"

I have made two disks from digital photos provided on this site. The front and back of the Attack Disk?. Are any of the wheels on either or both sides fixed like on the Raobf?

None of them are fixed, they work independantly. But you can ofcourse use the larger disks as backfaces of eachother, then you only have 5 disks stacked on top of each other. Well, aside from the thin transparent pointers.

Also... I would like to post photos of my disks.... can you direct me to the thread wherein the "how to" post photos is explained.... can not find it.

It took me a while to dig through Neal's latest responses. But I found it:

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/images/photo_howto/

The biggest problem I am having is making clean attachments to the "Whiz Wheel" ... the half circle, etc.... I had to go with a thin transparency ... cut the items out... place on a plastic ... clear sheet..... mark the plastic ... and cut with my dremel.... real slow. The clear glue works but now I have smudges on several of my items,....... Is there any way we could have the attachments printed in color on a thicker clear plastic?

I thank you for your considered input in the forums....

Roland / CyStryker

Same here, I printed my transparent parts on transparent sheets for overhead-projectors. It has a rough surface that my inkjet printer could print on without smearing. As it is still quite thin and flimsy I covered it wil laminating foil. But due to the rough surface meant that you could still see air-bubbles under the laminating foil. It's more like it is a bit misty/milky to look through it. But it is do-able. And the transparent pointers still curl up a bit. I may have ironed them out between layers of cloth at the time.

To attach the transparent pointers to the disks (like the AOB disk and knots-pointer) I think I first stuck them on the sticky side of laminating foil. I didn't need additional glue (If I understood you correctly). So I avoided smudges that way. Then made sure pushpins went exactly through the center of the transparent parts and disks and pulled the oversized laminating foil around the disk it was attached to, to it's backside. (So capturing the transparent pointer between the foil and the disk. Being careful the pointer was aligned with the proper place on the disk)

I printed the disks themselves on A4 papersticker sheets. So I avoided smearing that way too. Stuck them onto empty cardboard boxes for additional rigidity. And laminated them for protection with sticky laminating foil. It also makes it a bit glossy in the wrong light. But I often turn down my livingroom light anyway to enhance night-sight in SH3 (,5) and WP.

For reference,images of my dirty old disk:

 

[rolandslaw]

Pisces:

I am getting better at using my dremel in cutting the underlying clear plastic sheet. The sheet is rigid and not thick. I am picking up two more prints of the attachments today. And, a 1 1/4" dremel circular saw blade for plastic... most of the attachments have straight cuts... so this should be cleaner.

I also made templates from thick cardboard backers from writing pads. THis allows me to trace the template on the plastic w/o getting the template marked up before I glue it to the plastic cut out. And I am using a two step procedure in gluing the transparencies to the hard plastic.... after applying the glue to the plastic... I remove the plastic from the paper I am using to protect my dining table and place on another clean sheet of paper....No glue prints and smears on the mounted trans....:<)

Is the disk at the bottom known as the "Whiz Wheel" ?

Now, I am going to look again for the thread which references the procedure to attach photos...

Roland / CyStryker