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#1 |
Fleet Admiral
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I bet those brackets could do a real job on someone's kneecaps if sitting on a stool by them.
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#2 | |
Admiral
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Like I said, there are many different styles to choose from. Just Google the words "Counter Brackets" and click on "Images", you'll see what I mean. If it's wood or Corian, you may not have another inexspensive choice.
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#3 |
Navy Seal
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Hydraulic Bottle jacks...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4833_200304833 A six ton model sells for around $20.00 Granted, you won't need one that heavy duty unless you want to change the oil in your car. ![]() Lowes sells a two ton jobbie for $12.97
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![]() Tomorrow never comes Last edited by Wolferz; 06-08-13 at 01:19 PM. |
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#4 | |
Rear Admiral
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![]() Looking at that picture, though, wouldn't I have to sit the thing on the floor? Like you sit a car jack on the pavement? Would it extend at the top or something, allowing the part that would be pushing upward to reach up high enough to actually make contact with the bottom of the counter? ![]() |
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#5 | |
Navy Seal
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Quote:
NAJL... Need Another Jedi Lamp. ![]() I used to roll out of bed until I started taking Viagra. ![]() ![]()
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#6 |
Admiral
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There's a lot of different types and sizes.
Your best bet would be to consult someone at Lowe's or Home Depot. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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"The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step." -Miyamoto Musashi ------------------------------------------------------- "What is truth?" -Pontius Pilate ![]() |
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#7 |
Navy Seal
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Maybe I'm misunderstanding, or Wern is.
Frau is talking about a peninsula cabinet with countertop that extends out at a ninety degree angle from wall mounted cabinetry, are you not? If so, you would place the jack in the bottom of the cabinet, set a 2x4 cut to the right length between the jack and the underside of the counter. Slowly apply enough hydraulic pressure to raise the sag, then insert your support material in the gap. Remove jack and add it to your growing collection of tools. ![]() You could, theoretically, do the same thing with just the 2x4 and a hammer. Wedging the board in between the cabinet floor and the countertop at the approximate center of the sag and using just the board as the support to raise the sag. It would be out of sight inside the back of the cabinet. If it's accessible. Lifting the sag should lower the end with the big gap shown in your photo. Mickey will be proud. He might even hug you if Minnie isn't around ha ha. ![]()
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![]() Tomorrow never comes Last edited by Wolferz; 06-09-13 at 11:32 AM. |
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#8 | ||
Rear Admiral
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I could wedge something into the gap from inside the cabinet, provided I can get in there to do it - they're pretty big cabinets so it's probably doable. At least then if I do have to wedge things directly into the gap to raise the countertop I wouldn't be risking the same damage to the outer, visible part of the cabinet on the other side. ![]() |
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#9 | |
Admiral
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I think you're spot-on with the 2 X 4 underneath the entire length of the countertop in order to keep it from cracking while lifting. I'd even suggest a 2 X 6, depending on the material integrity of the countertop. Then again, it's always possible that I'm on another planet, as usual. ![]()
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"The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step." -Miyamoto Musashi ------------------------------------------------------- "What is truth?" -Pontius Pilate ![]() |
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