Physical Raobf and Attack Disk now available, also usable for Wolfpack

[rolandslaw]

Pisces"

I have made two disks from digital photos provided on this site. The front and back of the Attack Disk?. Are any of the wheels on either or both sides fixed like on the Raobf?

Also... I would like to post photos of my disks.... can you direct me to the thread wherein the "how to" post photos is explained.... can not find it.

The biggest problem I am having is making clean attachments to the "Whiz Wheel" ... the half circle, etc.... I had to go with a thin transparency ... cut the items out... place on a plastic ... clear sheet..... mark the plastic ... and cut with my dremel.... real slow. The clear glue works but now I have smudges on several of my items,....... Is there any way we could have the attachments printed in color on a thicker clear plastic?

I thank you for your considered input in the forums....

Roland / CyStryker

[Pisces]

Originally Posted by rolandslaw

Pisces"

I have made two disks from digital photos provided on this site. The front and back of the Attack Disk?. Are any of the wheels on either or both sides fixed like on the Raobf?

None of them are fixed, they work independantly. But you can ofcourse use the larger disks as backfaces of eachother, then you only have 5 disks stacked on top of each other. Well, aside from the thin transparent pointers.

Also... I would like to post photos of my disks.... can you direct me to the thread wherein the "how to" post photos is explained.... can not find it.

It took me a while to dig through Neal's latest responses. But I found it:

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/images/photo_howto/

The biggest problem I am having is making clean attachments to the "Whiz Wheel" ... the half circle, etc.... I had to go with a thin transparency ... cut the items out... place on a plastic ... clear sheet..... mark the plastic ... and cut with my dremel.... real slow. The clear glue works but now I have smudges on several of my items,....... Is there any way we could have the attachments printed in color on a thicker clear plastic?

I thank you for your considered input in the forums....

Roland / CyStryker

Same here, I printed my transparent parts on transparent sheets for overhead-projectors. It has a rough surface that my inkjet printer could print on without smearing. As it is still quite thin and flimsy I covered it wil laminating foil. But due to the rough surface meant that you could still see air-bubbles under the laminating foil. It's more like it is a bit misty/milky to look through it. But it is do-able. And the transparent pointers still curl up a bit. I may have ironed them out between layers of cloth at the time.

To attach the transparent pointers to the disks (like the AOB disk and knots-pointer) I think I first stuck them on the sticky side of laminating foil. I didn't need additional glue (If I understood you correctly). So I avoided smudges that way. Then made sure pushpins went exactly through the center of the transparent parts and disks and pulled the oversized laminating foil around the disk it was attached to, to it's backside. (So capturing the transparent pointer between the foil and the disk. Being careful the pointer was aligned with the proper place on the disk)

I printed the disks themselves on A4 papersticker sheets. So I avoided smearing that way too. Stuck them onto empty cardboard boxes for additional rigidity. And laminated them for protection with sticky laminating foil. It also makes it a bit glossy in the wrong light. But I often turn down my livingroom light anyway to enhance night-sight in SH3 (,5) and WP.

For reference,images of my dirty old disk:

 

[rolandslaw]

Pisces:

I am getting better at using my dremel in cutting the underlying clear plastic sheet. The sheet is rigid and not thick. I am picking up two more prints of the attachments today. And, a 1 1/4" dremel circular saw blade for plastic... most of the attachments have straight cuts... so this should be cleaner.

I also made templates from thick cardboard backers from writing pads. THis allows me to trace the template on the plastic w/o getting the template marked up before I glue it to the plastic cut out. And I am using a two step procedure in gluing the transparencies to the hard plastic.... after applying the glue to the plastic... I remove the plastic from the paper I am using to protect my dining table and place on another clean sheet of paper....No glue prints and smears on the mounted trans....:<)

Is the disk at the bottom known as the "Whiz Wheel" ?

Now, I am going to look again for the thread which references the procedure to attach photos...

Roland / CyStryker

[Pisces]

Actually, the one at the bottom is the historical side of the attack disk. As far as I learned from Hitman, the upper image time/speed/distance/angle side never existed. Or at least not as part of the attackdisk. It was created for gameplay reasons for SH3, as a counterpart. As for SH4 there was the American (Whiz)wheel which did have such aside.

[rolandslaw]

Pisces:

I went over to a graphics company and discussed making clean digital copies of the Raobf and transparencies. I used a photo from the web which was taken from a metallic tinted Raobf.. They are able to clean it up (remove the tainted ares) and digital print it to white at 200mm (8") outer disk diameter. this would give me a digital copy and a white high gloss paper print of this disk. They can also separate the three wheels and digital printing of these..... to fit the outer wheel at 200 mm diameter... each wheel to a separate sheet. When I get them I will post to this forum for everyone's use. I am going to ask them to tint the outer wheel a light brown, the middle wheel to light yellow and leave the center as white. Anyone can then take their jump drive to a printer like office depot and have accurate templates ready to print on a letter size white high gloss paper. The comp.. can also print on a white plastic either 1/32 or 1/16 thickness which would make backing the paper wheels unnecessary.

I am negotiating with them to place the transparencies ... I think Hitman posted.... on a 1/32 or 1/16 plastic transparent sheet. They can cut with laser and provide precut accurate transparencies and drilled with laser. .. center to allow use of a #10 screw... I need to keep the price of these to a minimum... When I find out the costs... I will let everyone know... this would beat the hell out of cutting transparent plastic and gluing to the transparencies:<)

I showed them my completed ATTACK DISK and another disk which I do not know what that one is used for. they were impressed.:<)

Roland / CyStryker

[Pisces]

Al right, good work. If you can show a picture of that mystery disk then I might be able to help figuring out it's use.

[rolandslaw]

Pisces:

I received a quote from the shop today for the Raobf three wheels.... $125.00!!! They have to make money to pay for a brick and concrete store:<) The price is well beyond the "useful and marginal utility" test...:<) I ordered the attachments for the attack disk (interception).... not cheap. 1/16 thick clear acrylic and laser cut to fit a disk at 8" or 200 mm diameter .... I should receive by Tuesday. I will photo them and post.... and photo them installed on my two disks.... u can tell me the id of the first disk....

I believe it was u who said u use transparency film used in overhead which comes with a glue side (remove the film...) . that would prevent the glue smudges...

I am disappointed on the cost of the acrylic Raobf parts... I did get a great... clear ......... digital set of the three wheels for the Raobf. I am going to make one based upon these templates.

Roland / CyStryker