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Old 05-17-08, 04:13 PM   #346
Sabalo
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What a wonderful model are you doing pal!
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Old 05-18-08, 04:08 AM   #347
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Thanks Sabalo, i just hope i live long enough to finish it.

Port side of the CT.
I managed to divide the wall into 2 sections- double layer, and single at the front, which will be reinforced with few vertical ribs.


TBC...
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Old 05-18-08, 09:50 AM   #348
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The step was added, as was the MG stowage. I have no fotographic evidence it did exist on U-552, but some pics show it on other Blohm £ Voss boat from the same period.


TBC...
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Old 05-18-08, 02:53 PM   #349
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TBC...
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Old 05-19-08, 04:52 AM   #350
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..Speechless..(stunnished about the tiny details been added)

Really, awesome work!
keep it up

just a question, if its finished are you planning to put it behind glass?

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Old 05-19-08, 01:13 PM   #351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HunterICX
..Speechless..(stunnished about the tiny details been added)

Really, awesome work!
keep it up

just a question, if its finished are you planning to put it behind glass?

HunterICX
Thanks a lot Hunter ICX.
Im planning on ordering the glass tank- once the build is done. Before that i cant guess the dimensions. I know the length, but what the hight gonna be i can only estimate.
Because it will be some investment i better wait till the job is done.
The tank / only 5 sides / will be placed upside down over the quality length of timber.
Ive ordered the Iron Cross with swords and leaves, along with replica U-boat badge, and they will find place to the sides of boat.

So far im still building it, and just got the Koki soldering paste- so i can solder the wintergarten. Highly skilled job- requires the best material.

I just hope i have more luck with it than with the normal soldering methods.
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Old 05-20-08, 12:59 PM   #352
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The port side seat was scratch built just like the starboard one.


Two holes were drilled in both halves of upper CT.
Steel rods added to reinforce the joint.





TBC...
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Old 05-20-08, 04:14 PM   #353
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Front of the CT deck needs to be filled in, in RL it was covered by steel plate. Beer can came to the resque.


Ive added some pattern to replicate the antislip surface of the plate.



Two small hatches were cut from the beer can. Ive drilled the handle, and added the hinges.




TBC...
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Old 05-21-08, 03:50 AM   #354
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Im still learning how to solder with the Koki paste, and this should help a little:


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Old 05-22-08, 02:29 AM   #355
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TBC...
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Old 05-22-08, 06:05 AM   #356
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That beer can's getting excellent mileage . How did you do the indenting for the non-slip surface? Looks very nice and perfectly to scale .
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Old 05-22-08, 01:40 PM   #357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bert8for3
That beer can's getting excellent mileage . How did you do the indenting for the non-slip surface? Looks very nice and perfectly to scale .
Actualy the front plate was made from thiner tin. The thiner the tin- the better the detail of the floor pattern. It was indented by rolling the handle of my craft knife over the part placed on flat surface. Detail is slightly to large fir the scale, but im not bothered, as when painted, and weathered should "just" be visible to break the surface of the plate.

The hatch leading down to inside of the boat has the slightly protruded rim.
So ive cut thin strip of brass, roled it:


My new soldering iron was used + Koki paste / best thing since sliced bread /


Sanded:


In place:


The soldering iron performed flawlessly, and im wondering where it has been all my life?

TBC...
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Last edited by Siara; 08-18-08 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 05-25-08, 06:27 AM   #358
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Im using the scopes from Schatton Modellbau.
Attack scope.


Observation scope.


The scope tubes were glued in the CT. Scopes are only in for the pic.


TBC...
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Old 05-25-08, 04:03 PM   #359
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Main Hatch lid.

The lid was fashioned from resin.
Brass ring was created from wire. I think the soldering turned out neat.


Ive sanded the ring flat on both sides with the sheet of sandpaper. Ring was glued to the underside of lid.


Ive drilled the 0,8mm hole in the center, and inserted the stretched sprue for the opening mechanism pin.


Because i still dont know how to etch in metal, the lid arms were scratch built from sheet of thin brass.


Spring was created by winding the wire on the sewing pin.


Hinges were made out of the beer can.


Added rest of the detail from various PE, and made wire handle. The hinges do work, as they were fixed by threading the stretched sprue, and blobing the ends with hot knife.


Dry fit.


TBC...
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Old 05-26-08, 07:03 PM   #360
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Attack pariscope housing.
Original revell part. Much simplyfied.


Cleaned.


Extended by 5 mm.


Drilled and wire glued in.


Fins added.


Wire loops- soldered wire.


Steel base fashioned from beer can again. Nuts and bolts punched from underside with the pin.


Some valve.


General look as for now. More detailing will follow.


TBC...
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