A new 1/18th scale die-cast journey begins..

[ET2SN]

AKA: A Second Chance.

Back in 2011-12 I knew Shelby Collectibles (run out of the same shop in Las Vegas as the real cars) had a 1/18th scale die cast produced for their 2011 GT 350.



I really liked the concept of the GT 350, its kind of like an entry-level Shelby Mustang for the masses. For the extra money (about 2 1/2 times the price of a regular Mustang, as I recall) you got 650 HP under the hood, some mild performance tweaks to the suspension, and some tasty body panels and Shelby paint. I liked it for what it wasn't. This wasn't a car built for track days and life in a garage, it was meant to driven on the street, daily.

The one thing I didn't like as much was the 2011 Mustang. Someone got the idea to make the car look like an old man wearing high waisted pants. So, I passed on the die cast. And, honestly, I regretted it. Every now and then I would check around but by 2015 Shelby had moved on to newer cars and concepts and dropped the 2011 GT 350 die cast from their store. Auto Art released a GT 350 which looked OK and was priced to make your nose bleed, but they got some things wrong. Most notably, they missed the unique gauge cluster on the driver's side of the windshield sill.

Then, two weeks ago, I get an email from the store I buy my die cast from.

They list the original 2011 Shelby die cast in white with metallic dark blue stripes and scripts. No other info, they just have some in stock.

I place my order that day.

One week later, it shows up. Now, we're talking about Shelby Collectibles. They aren't close to Auto Art, Minichamps, or Kyosho. They are closer to the really old-school Ertl die casts or some of the cheaper Maisto examples. Shelby sells real cars. Real expensive cars. Their die casts are for the tourists or to sweeten a deal while your car is being built in the shop. Still, they are really good in that Shelby knows what goes into their real cars and their nit-picking details are great. Their die casts sit with the right stance and all of the labels in the engine bay are correct.

As it turns out, the example I got looks like it has never seen better days. There's enough dust and crud in the interior to make it look like it sat on a shelf for a very long time. There are some flaws and "boogers" in the white enamel paint and one "ouch" spot where the metallic blue pad printed paint smeared. There was a nasty "glue booger" on one of the rear window "delete" panels and there was NO radiator behind the lower opening on the chin.

Great, I bought a USED car in 1/18th scale.........
Either this thing sat on a shelf in a store or else it was sold and returned.
Either way, its perfect.

Recall why I said I liked the concept behind the GT 350. These car get driven. They can get a little beat up and its fine. The paint is VERY fixable. The white is supposed to be very generic and industrial and is responding well to buffing compound. The missing radiator? I just tracked one down on EBay (1/18th scale, printed plastic that will look fine once I glue and pin it into place). The glue booger on the rear window delete is almost fixed but I have to be very careful. Its close to a very small and fine "Carrol Shelby" signature script that I don't want to ruin.

Due to the dusty condition of the interior I was already planning to (carefully) strip this thing down to its parts to clean everything and maybe do some detail painting on the center console. I'm also thinking of adding flocking for the carpet and maybe some Shelby floor mats.
Best of all, I have about $60 sunk into this project.

[mapuc]

I'm trying to save money for this beauty

https://www.agoramodels.com/porsche917/

I will of course follow your progress
Markus

[ET2SN]

Originally Posted by mapuc

I'm trying to save money for this beauty

https://www.agoramodels.com/porsche917/

I will of course follow your progress
Markus

I saw a video on YT where some guy was building the engine and transmission. Very, very nice but I would invest in a good set of precision screwdrivers before you order it. There must be something close to two thousand screws on the complete kit.

[ET2SN]

Just for mapuc :

[ET2SN]

So, after a stressful weekend of Whack-A-Squirrel my 3D printed radiator showed up in the mail and it was time to tear down the Shelby.

This tear down wasn't mandatory but I really wanted to clean all the goop and crud off the plastic interior parts including the windows. I was concerned at first that there may been some CA glue fogging on the clear parts but a quick swipe with a Q Tip showed it to be some kind of grease.

I also wanted to do a more detailed survey of this die-cast to figure out how much I wanted to put into the rebuild. The first thing I noticed was that the factory in China must have hired Man Mountain Dean. ALL of the screws were torqued down super tight. This put the condition of the interior into a better perspective- someone new had assembled this die-cast.

I had almost talked myself into flocking the carpets and surfed over to Detail Master to order the flock and some parts. Its a good thing I wasn't 100% committed, the black flock has been on back-order forever and all they had was Charcoal Gray, which would have goofed up the look of the interior. So, I'll just lay down a thick-ish coat of flat black enamel paint then stipple it slightly before it cures. This also makes it much easier to add a pair of "Cobra" floor mats. DM's floor mats are made out of a kind of thick construction paper that looks convincing. They are also slightly over sized for 1/24th and 1/25th scale cars which makes them perfect for 1/18th and 1/20th scale. All you need to do is lightly buff the floor mats with an eraser to raise the grain in the paper then add any folds. Finish up by gluing in place with either white glue or, better yet, Elmer's rubber cement. Elmer's doesn't glue the parts in place as much as it "tacks" them down. Just apply the glue to the mats and where you want to stick them on the floor, then allow the glue to dry until its tacky. Stick the mats in place and nudge them slightly into their final position, and you're done.

Engine and spark plug wires- On modern cars, this is a toss up. I've done this in the past where 10 hours of adding wires results in something you'll never see. I want to do a little more research on the real car, but I'm 90% sure I won't bother with wires.

The missing radiator- Basically, all I needed was something to cover the hole behind the lower chin inlet. It didn't have to look 100% accurate, it just had to be there. A quick trip to EBay showed two possibilities, one was a 1/18 scale radiator/intercooler in resin from somewhere in Europe that looked really nice but was priced at "only an arm and a leg" while the other was a 1/18th scale 3D printed radiator with two electric fans for die-cast dragsters. Close enough. I'll even add one or both of the electric fans, they look too good to go into the parts stash. Just some quick painting followed up with some panel liner, then drilled, pinned, and glued into place on the chassis. Job done.

Wheels and suspension- Pretty good but there was room for improvement. The model comes with turning cross drilled brake rotors and detailed stationary calipers. The rotors only need a little detail painting on the center hub and some panel liner to make the outer rotors "pop". Since this is 1/18th die-cast, it also features a solid metal rear axle that is a couple of cm's too long which results in a sloppy fit. I'll either cut down the metal axle or replace it with aluminum tubing.

Final details- These are well within reach and its easy to add some "easter eggs" that really make your model pop. The main reason I wanted this GT 350 was because I wanted that unique Shelby gauge cluster on the driver's side of the A pillar. As it turns out, those three gauges are only painted silver.
Not to worry, this is why we stash decals. Some 1/24th small gauge decals will fit nicely and I'm going to cut and polish some bezels out of some aluminum tubing, glue them to the sides of the gauges, then fill in the new "pocket" with some clear parts glue. Shazam! Accurate 3D gauges with glass faces. They are also more rugged than you may think, the clear glue for the gauge faces also bonds all the parts together into a solid unit.

After that will be some final details. The instrument panel and center console need some minor detail painting (I need to look up some pictures first) and I might add some aftermarket cloth seat belts and p/e buckles. Then, everything gets screwed back together ( 1/18th scale die cast is one of those hobbies where you want a couple of types of Loctite in your tool drawer).

[Onkel Neal]

Post some pictures, please, I want to see what is going on here. This is a metal model, not a plastic one, correct? I'm not sure how to disassemble a built plastic model, so I am assuming it is metal connected with... screws?