Submarine Attack Course Finder (a.k.a. Is-Was / Banjo)

[don1reed]

My take on this neat addition to whiz-wheels is:

You have 3 templates:

A (the big outer wheel) = True compass

B (middle wheel) = Submarine (all bearings relative)

C (inner wheel) = Target

Scope (transparency) = cursor

Here is a copy of my old orig SH1 whiz-wheel,



as you can see, (forgive the blurriness), I've set it to the params of the problem. You need to do the same with the new wheel.

Cheers,

[Igorry]

Originally Posted by don1reed

My take on this neat addition to whiz-wheels is:

You have 3 templates:

A (the big outer wheel) = True compass

B (middle wheel) = Submarine (all bearings relative)

C (inner wheel) = Target

Scope (transparency) = cursor

Here is a copy of my old orig SH1 whiz-wheel,



as you can see, (forgive the blurriness), I've set it to the params of the problem. You need to do the same with the new wheel.

Cheers,

Hi Don1Reed,

I have also constructed your whiz wheel and I believe the outer wheel is your submarine and the middle wheel is the true compass and the inner wheel is the target. Using your whiz wheel I can get the true course of the enemy ship or the enemy AOB with three piece of information

For true course

1) your sub course
2) relative bearing
3) Estimated AOB

For AOB

1) your sub course
2) relative bearing
3) True course of enemy ship


Basically the course finder or whiz wheel is the same as the banjo. I like the banjo better because it has the periscope tab and it is an exact copy of the ww2 banjo. However both can be used to find true course or AOB.

Igorry

[don1reed]

Basically the course finder or whiz wheel is the same as the banjo. I like the banjo better because it has the periscope tab and it is an exact copy of the ww2 banjo. However both can be used to find true course or AOB.

Igorry

Actually, Igorry, you & Hitman are both right...it's just a matter which of the templates the operator chooses to use as the True compass card.

...I like the new (more authentic for WWII) whiz-wheel too. The one I've been using is more from WWI.

-...-

sqk7744, your examples are very helpful, especially for the new guys using manual for the first time.

[Linton]

Originally Posted by Miimike

The back side is the run time calculator.

Would you be able to post a picture of that?

[CeeBee]

This is for Captain Crunch & Hitman: thanks for your excellent work on the Is-Was! I read this thread through and would really have use for the excellent tool(s) you've done. I tried to use RapidShare to download the files, but I am constantly running into ridiculous download waiting times of over two hrs, then when I get almost to 0 waiting time, the timer is reset again to 120 minutes - or I get an error message claiming that I have another download ongoing already although I actually haven't.

So please please, if you or someone else can find another place to host the files for me to get, my eternal gratitude would be yours!

[DirtyHarry3033]

Thanks to Captain Krunch and Hitman for this great Is-Was Have spent a very enjoyable afternoon building it, now comes the fun part - learning how to use it!

I went all-out on making it, using 110 lb card stock and inkjet transparencies, then took it all to Office Depot to have them laminated in the heavy stuff. Jeez, I spent more on this than SH4 cost to start with I must be sick, is there a 12-step program to get off subsimming?!?!?!

(Course I also did Kim Ronhof's fine tools too so that increased the laminating costs...)


Now, there are only 2 things I don't like about Hitman's side of the Is-Was (note that no criticism is implied here, I appreciate his work and there's no way I could have done it myself!):

1. For some reason, the outermost circle on the inner and middle wheel did not print for the most part. This made it very difficult for me to cut it out accurately since there was no clear line to follow - 43 years ago in kindergarten, I consistently failed the work where you had to cut the construction paper along the lines :rotfl::rotfl:Also it wasn't a printer problem as the lines don't show up clearly on screen either.
2. As a couple others have said, it don't print the same size as Captain Krunch's front side.

I fixed both of those problems, I loaded the inner and middle wheel into Paint Shop Pro 9 and made a new outermost circle for them. They print great now, much easier to cut out!

I also found that (on my hardware anyway...) by printing in PSP9 and scaling all Hitman's wheels up to 106%, it is a near-perfect fit for Captain Krunch's wheel.

If anyone is interested and if Hitman would give his OK, I'd be glad to provide him with the modified inner and middle wheels to include in his package. The only thing I changed is to make a clear outer circle on them so they're easier to cut out accurately.

How about it Hitman, wanna take a look at them? If you do, PM me and I'll be glad to send you both the PSP and .bmp files

DH

[Hitman]

I also found that (on my hardware anyway...) by printing in PSP9 and scaling all Hitman's wheels up to 106%, it is a near-perfect fit for Captain Krunch's wheel.

If anyone is interested and if Hitman would give his OK, I'd be glad to provide him with the modified inner and middle wheels to include in his package. The only thing I changed is to make a clear outer circle on them so they're easier to cut out accurately.

Sure, just upload them wherever you want and add a readme with your modifications . The funny thing is that they print perfectly in my hardware and some people have reported that the difference is 96% instead of 106%

That will also probably help CeeBee getting them.

[don1reed]

Howdy, Hitman.

I may be behind the "curve" on this, but,

Using your side of the Submarine Attack Course Finder/Is Was (SACF), and in reality it is nothing more than a Circular Sliderule with Sine scale only, it can also be used as an ASPECT RATIO (AR) tool:

As we know, all the AR are based on a 90° AoB.

1) After IDing the target ship and obtaining it's AR, adjust the center wheel of the SACF, placing the 90° mark under the AR of the target.

2) After obtaining new AR thru objective lens of the scope, use the clear cursor, sliding it to the new AR and reading the Aob under it.

Using the "Tool" eliminates any pause-the-game math.

Here's a pic:

[Hitman]

and in reality it is nothing more than a Circular Sliderule with Sine scale only, it can also be used as an ASPECT RATIO (AR) tool:

Sure Don, well spotted! I had thought that since it is -as you say- a sine scale there should be some way of reading it, but I did not dig deeper because I use another item for calculating the AR. But you found it and it is much easier than I had thought at first sight

[Torpex77]

Thought this was interesting.))

https://maritime.org/doc/attackfinder/index.htm

[patton610]

this may seem silly, but I am building this as a aid for in-class presentation as part of a paper, and am unsure if all the plates are moveable or if certain ones are fixed to one another. I am particularly concerned about the two largest plates on the back-side. please help remedy my stupidity,
Thanks

[The Joker]

Originally Posted by patton610

this may seem silly, but I am building this as a aid for in-class presentation as part of a paper, and am unsure if all the plates are moveable or if certain ones are fixed to one another. I am particularly concerned about the two largest plates on the back-side. please help remedy my stupidity,<br />
Thanks

All of the discs turn independently, for both tools. If you're making both tools you can fix them together, back-to-back by laminating the bottom disc of each tool together. Also, make sure that when you print the Attack Course Finder, that you print the C disc on transparency, NOT the P disc. The P disc goes right under the C disc. I mixed up the two the first time. If that doesn't make sense, I can post some pictures if you need me too.

[patton610]

Thanks I have everything done done except fastening the disc together. I terrified of missaligning the disc when I attach them. KLH said he used a drill, then a nut, bolt, and washers. the "time in minutes" disc and the very top two on the front are transparencies, the rest are laminated paper. I am a bit worried that a drill might melt some of it...and most, well all hole punches I have seen will not reach.

[don1reed]

I used an ice pick heated on the stove to burn/punch through. Worked like a charm. Caveat: go slow.

I used an awl, it has a sharp point so you can get it to penetrate right at the center of the X. I used round head fasteners(brass, 1 inch) from Staples to provide the axis/axle.

Urge