Car Maintenance

[Spike88]

I drive a 2002 Mazda MPV, that is in fairly good condition despite a few scratches, and problems here or there. I eventually plan on replacing the rear bumper, repainting it, and replacing some of the broken interior pieces.


I'm pretty handy, so I'd like to do all the replacing myself, but that's another story.

My question/issue is that I have two things that I want to know if it's something I can fix/replace or if it's something I should pay someone to fix.

The first one has to do with the remote for the power locks. It no longer works, I tried replacing the battery in the remote, but that wasn't the issue. Any suggestions on what I should try next? Is it possible to purchase a new remote for my vehicle?

The second issue is the power lock for the left rear door. For whatever reason it doesn't unlock/lock like the rest, you have to manually push the lock open and closed. Bit of a pain when you have to open the drivers door, and reach back just to unlock the door. Anything I should try?

[Platapus]

First thing I would do is obtain via the Internets Tubes the factory service manual for your car. This goes into far more detail that the owner's manual.

These service manuals give you step by step instructions for fixin stuff. Once you know the steps, you will be in a better position to evaluate your limitations.

Good luck with it. :yeah:

Like this one for example: http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/116331654-mazda-mpv-2000-2002-workshop-factory-service-repair

I just input "2002 Mazda MPV factory service manuals" Into the Googles and a list of them came up. :)

[GT182]

Spike, you can replace the power lock unit and all the related stuff. Get a manual for you car that cover the year you own. Just becareful taking things apart. If you have a digita camer take pictures of everything together in it's place inside the doors before you start. That will help you putting it all back together. ;) It'll be cheaper doing it your self than having a repair shop or dealer do it. Check your junkyards for what you need but make sure the power lock unit works. They can do that.

I've got the same issues with my 2000 Jeep GC. I've just been too lazy to fix it all. LOL

[Bubblehead Nuke]

Look in the owners manual, or look up online, the procedure for programming the remote lock key fob. If the batteries went dead it may have lost the digital 'key' that the car needs to recognize it as a proper remote and not a 'stranger'.

If that does not work the reciever may have gone bad or lost power. The receiver fuse may be blown. check ALL the fuses. Sometimes they put it on a circuit that is different from the solenoids themselves. I am not at shop right now so I can not pull up the wiring schematic up to tell you which one it is.

About the power door lock working only in manual mode on the one door; the lock soleniod is probably bad. We see it all the time in any electric lock vehicle. You should pull the door panel and check for voltage at the pigtail. When you press the lock/unlock button and get 12 volts at the connector for the solenoid then it is getting a proper signal and the solenoid itself has gone bad (just replace it). If there is no voltage, then there is a fault in the wiring or possibly the switch.

Shop manuals will NOT give you step by step procedures for electrical issues. It will provide the info you need to troubleshoot a problem. This is one that you just have to take some time to figure out. Luckily it is a rather basic circuit.

[Spike88]

First thing I would do is obtain via the Internets Tubes the factory service manual for your car. This goes into far more detail that the owner's manual.

These service manuals give you step by step instructions for fixin stuff. Once you know the steps, you will be in a better position to evaluate your limitations.

Good luck with it. :yeah:

Like this one for example: http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/116331654-mazda-mpv-2000-2002-workshop-factory-service-repair

I just input "2002 Mazda MPV factory service manuals" Into the Googles and a list of them came up. :)

Thanks for the link, will definitely help with today's "Project". Which is replacing a bulb that the manual refers to as a "Parking Light" and defogging the damn headlight covers.

The "Parking Light" has the following mention in my owner's manual:
Please see Authorized Dealer to replace.


The actual bulb is the one on the left side of this picture(Note, this isn't my picture, as my headlamps are clouded as hell.)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/466000-466999/466821_59_full.jpg

Everyone else, thanks for the replies, will look into it after I fix today's issue.

[Spike88]

Look in the owners manual, or look up online, the procedure for programming the remote lock key fob. If the batteries went dead it may have lost the digital 'key' that the car needs to recognize it as a proper remote and not a 'stranger'.


I was just doing some light reading(in bed, winding down for sleep) via the service manual when I read about reprogramming the key, did a quick google search(because the manual is talking about reprogramming an "Immobilizer") and I find out the processes is quite easy, and is the same for most Mazdas. I couldn't let it wait until morning, and decided to go out to the car. About a minute later, it's working again. :yeah:

At least I got something done today. Never got to replace the burnt lamp, as I spent a good hour and a half(and then the sun went down) trying to get to the blasted thing. After the sun went down I gave up and started putting the car back together, ended up putting part of the grill over the little handle to release the hood. Spent 20 minutes with a screwdriver trying to manually pry open the hood lock. Finally got it open, set everything straight.

I did notice there seemed to be junk in my front bumper. Parts out of place and such, along with some sort of binding that was pooled together. Although we've replaced our fan twice, so I'm fairly certain the mechanic was just lazy.
Although two parts fell underneath the car and I'm not sure what they're for. I'll post pictures of them later, but they're two rubber pieces with glue on the bottom that look like some sort of cushioning. I think they had been free floating in the car and had just fallen out when I moved the bumper around.

Edit: Apparently the easier method for replacing the burn light is by removing the battery, and one of the intake tubes right behind the area(easier then removing the damn grill again).

Also, any suggestions on de-clouding/un-fogging(whatever terminology you want to use) the headlight covers? I heard there is a chemical you can buy called Nu something, but want to know if this is the best option. I've also heard that plain white tooth paste works.

[Bubblehead Nuke]

Also, any suggestions on de-clouding/un-fogging(whatever terminology you want to use) the headlight covers? I heard there is a chemical you can buy called Nu something, but want to know if this is the best option. I've also heard that plain white tooth paste works.

BZ on fixing the remote locks..

Any parts store will have a 'headlight defogger' kit. It will include some fine sandpaper and a acrylic sealer. The whole thing takes about an hour to do.

What happens is the plastic film on the surface of the headlamp assemby is fogged due to UV rays. The plastic film is there to prevent the fracturing of the plastic due to impacts (you know...bugs, rocks, rear bumpers of the car in front of you). Anyway, the film they use on some cars is not UV stabilized. What you have to do is sand the plastic off and reseal the headlight and that is what the kit does.

[AVGWarhawk]

I have used the kits for the fogged lenses on the headlights. They do work. Just mask off the area so you do not bugger up the paint.

[Oberon]

Best kind of car maintenance:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78b67l_yxUc

[Spike88]

BZ on fixing the remote locks..

Any parts store will have a 'headlight defogger' kit. It will include some fine sandpaper and a acrylic sealer. The whole thing takes about an hour to do.



I have used the kits for the fogged lenses on the headlights. They do work. Just mask off the area so you do not bugger up the paint.

Got a $10 dollar turtlewax defogger. After washing the car, I used it. Took less time than I expected, and did a pretty good job, they look new-ish.

Best kind of car maintenance:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78b67l_yxUc

Says the man with no car. :haha:


Finally replaced the parking lamp. Had to remove the battery, battery tray, and move an air intake valve out of the way. Still barely had any hand room, but I finally got the light out. Only to realize the 1157A that advanced autoparts suggested was too big. Quick search later(MPV forum for the win) and I find the best replacement is a 168. I borrowed the parents car and switched out the bulbs. Get home and put everything back(Plus I replaced the other side for good measure, which took 2 minutes). Have to say, the customer service at my AA sucks, but that's another story.

Now the only thing that's left is getting new tires(metal lining is starting to show on my front tires), replace the front/rear bumpers, interior paneling, steering wheel(for good measure), carpets, get new rims(starting to lose their finish) and get the blasted thing repainted.

I figure since I'm joining the Navy, and will be spend most of my time at base, or out to sea, I don't really need a new car until I get out.

Anyways, Anyone mind telling me what these things are? I'm assuming they're not important as my car hasn't exploded yet. They fell out after I pulled the front bumper yesterday. They both have glue on the bottom, but it looks like it melted ages ago.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a108/Tetsou88/DSCF1130.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a108/Tetsou88/DSCF1128.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a108/Tetsou88/DSCF1127.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a108/Tetsou88/DSCF1129.jpg






Edit: I have two more questions:
1. Sometimes when you accelerate, the car will stop accelerating for a second and then "jump" and continue accelerating. Been doing this for atleast 3 years(although it rarely happens). I told my mechanic about it(before he died of a heart attack), and he never fixed it. His reasoning was he couldn't reproduce the problem.
2.Also when you accelerate quickly into 60+, right around the time you stop accelerating, there will be a slipping/squealing sound from the engine department. Any suggestions?

[MaddogK]

That jump in acceleration could be an improperly set 'detent' cable for the transmission. The detent cable simply controls when the transmission pulls a downshift (or passing gear) as the transmission shift point is based on pressure built up from the pump rpm vs the position of the throttle (sensed by the detent cable).

It may be properly set and could be a sign of a slow shift due to worn clutches or bands in the auto tranny.

Those rubber parts look like the insulators around the headlight lens. Those parts are used around the lenses to keep them from rattling around between the bumper and fender openings when you hit bumps- the halogen bulbs don't take kindly to being bounced around.

[Spike88]

That jump in acceleration could be an improperly set 'detent' cable for the transmission. The detent cable simply controls when the transmission pulls a downshift (or passing gear) as the transmission shift point is based on pressure built up from the pump rpm vs the position of the throttle (sensed by the detent cable).

It may be properly set and could be a sign of a slow shift due to worn clutches or bands in the auto tranny. Just as a follow up, just drove the car for the first time since I removed the battery(radio presets and the clock had to be reset). I accelerated 3 times(at normal acceleration) and all 3 times, when the car shifted to 3rd gear, the car would rev and jump in the same way.

Although after driving around some more it went away. Tried to recreate it by accelerating hard/soft/normal, but it wouldn't do it again. I noticed some slight delay between gears, but it didn't jump. I think it has something to do with the computer(I read that it has to "relearn" after the battery is removed).



Those rubber parts look like the insulators around the headlight lens. Those parts are used around the lenses to keep them from rattling around between the bumper and fender openings when you hit bumps- the halogen bulbs don't take kindly to being bounced around.Maybe that's what they're for, although my headlights seem to be nice and secure. But I'll keep an eye on them.


Defogging the headlights definitely made a difference. The lights are not only brighter, but white instead of yellow.


Also, removing the battery removed the check engine light that's been on for months(had to do with the last time the fan was changed, they never reset the computer.)

[FIREWALL]

First Spike I lnow money is tight these days. But is trade in value with all the rebates and what you'll spend to fix it worth a 2002 vehicle ?

Just something to think about.

[Spike88]

First Spike I lnow money is tight these days. But is trade in value with all the rebates and what you'll spend to fix it worth a 2002 vehicle ?

Just something to think about.


I'd be looking at 10,000+ for most used cars(at least any better than the current state of my MPV). I doubt, when everything is all said and done I'll go over 3,000.


Edit: Besides, I like my MPV. :P. Nice space, can turn it into a covered pick up truck by taking out the mid seats and lowering the back seats, Can seat 7, and has a 6 disc CD AM/FM radio(Something that would be hard to find in most cars). It also can do 115MPH despite being a mini-van, and accelerates like a beauty(despite the occasional issues I pointed out).

I would like a Mustang instead, but my eyes are set on 2010 or 2011's and there is no way I could afford them anytime soon.

Now, if something major needed replacing, such as the engine, or tranny, I'd look at replacing it, but until then I'd like to keep her.

[FIREWALL]

Makes sense. :yep: