[REL] Kriegsmarine Wiz-Wheel templates released!

[Vacillator]

Thanks Hitman, something to keep me busy tonight

EDIT: Just had a quick look. That's a nice piece of work!

[SteveW1]

Thank You Sir, You are a legend
And it will keep me busy this weekend

[Alex]

Originally Posted by Rubini

And i´m having a little trouble to download from filefront: no servers available...(only me?)

I've packed them in one file for you, mate, just download KM_wiz_wheel_and_sh4_manual_targeting_by_Hitman from here, hopefully your cpu can download it from rapidshare :

http://rapidshare.com/files/30695272...itman.rar.html

[Rubini]

Originally Posted by Alex

I've packed them in one file for you, mate, just download KM_wiz_wheel_and_sh4_manual_targeting_by_Hitman from here, hopefully your cpu can download it from rapidshare :

http://rapidshare.com/files/30695272...itman.rar.html

Thanks Alex!
A cut and paste weekend ahead!

[bruschi sauro]

TKS HITMAN WELL DONE JOB MATE::::

[Maraz]

Great job!
I will make two separated wheels, the first one (rear one) is already done!

Thanks
Maraz

[GoldenRivet]

great work hitman... now whats the trick to printing out the transparancies without having the ink smear so easily?

also should the larger wheel of the front be glued to the larger wheel of the back as if one were printed on the back of the other or should these two move freely of one another?

[Puster Bill]

Originally Posted by GoldenRivet

also should the larger wheel of the front be glued to the larger wheel of the back as if one were printed on the back of the other or should these two move freely of one another?

Yes!

I've found in building a couple of these types of things that it really doesn't matter.

My preference is to laminate the two biggest wheels together back to back. I don't use glue, as I always seem to get wrinkles.

[GoldenRivet]

as i searched the store for laminating sheets, i thought to myself that laminating them together would be the best idea vs. using glue.

Im trying to figure out though what the best method to use might be for placing the transparant images on actual transparancy sheets.

[Hitman]

also should the larger wheel of the front be glued to the larger wheel of the back as if one were printed on the back of the other

Exactly that

[GoldenRivet]

got a users guide?

I use slide rules regularly, but one has to know what each of the "scales" represents in order to effectively use the device. i picture tutorial would be great, but a written tutorial would be quite sufficient.

[Puster Bill]

OK, I built the back side of the KM whiz wheel, and while fiddling with it I noticed a possible issue.

If you align the index on the small wheel (the red line) with 1 knot, it lands on 5400 meters.

The conversion from meters to knots is approximately .515, so unless my thinking is incorrect, it should land on 5150 meters.

When I checked the backside of my American whiz wheel, if you align the index on 1 knot you will hit just a hair over 5600, which is correct, the conversion from yards to knots is about .56.

I will say that there is a caveat: I haven't had the chance to try it in the game yet. I don't know if it will cause a miss.

One way to fix that problem would be to align the transparent pointer with the mark just past the "16 minute" mark on the inner wheel.

I'm going to try it as-is, and see if it works. If it does, no big deal. If not, I just taped that transparent arrow to the back of the inner wheel, so I can move it if necessary.

Again, Hitman, an EXCELLENT job. 'Tis a thing of beauty when built. I can't wait to build the other side!

[Hitman]

Looks like I forgot to update the time wheel mark from the US tool template . When I did the middle wheel I moved the central scale (Knots) for better look purposes, and seems like I forgot to also move the time cursor (As I did the central wheel much later). The red line should be aligned now exactly with the tick before the "1-50" mark, that gives the correct result.

I will upload in some minutes a corrected central wheel

[Hitman]

OK, I have uploaded a hotfix with a new middle wheel template (corrected), and updated both SW and NO SW packs with that wheel. Anyone who has already downloaded the pack can get the corrected middle wheel that way. It is the same for both versions (SW and NO SW).

If you have already printed the wheel, and don't want to waste paper, ink or money in re-printing the fixed wheel, just move the speed cursor to align with the mark before the 1-50, instead of with the original red mark. Here is an image showing the exact new orientation of the speed cursor:



I apologize for the inconveniencies

[Hitman]

got a users guide?

I use slide rules regularly, but one has to know what each of the "scales" represents in order to effectively use the device. i picture tutorial would be great, but a written tutorial would be quite sufficient.

As stated in the first post, I will make a the tutorial later. I need a rest now, and playing a bit instead of fiddling around with Photoshop

I have not yet built my own wheel, just printed the sheets, which is probably why the error went unnoticed.:hmm:

I had no problems printing in transparent sheets. Just ask in your store for transparent sheets specifically designed for printers, and then laminate them together with a thicker transparent plastic piece you can cut well. Worked for me