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SUBSIM: The Web's #1 resource for all submarine & naval simulations since 1997 |
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#106 |
Lucky Sailor
![]() Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Rome
Posts: 4,272
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My torpedo heater is on it's way, should arrive tomorrow. I have a littel space heater that warms me when I'm at the desk (I don't smoke inside the house, but I do habitually when I'm gaming, so the computer is in the shop), but I can't run that and the power tools at the same time, trips the breaker. After fighting through last year, I finally broke done and bought a big'un.
But fighting through numb fingers, I finished cutting out the herd of reindeer, I'll cut out the sleigh tomorrow... |
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#107 |
Swabbie
![]() Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 6
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I have tried to make a knife but fail to do similar like you. It's lots of work. I totally gave up after a certain point! Instead of making a working knife it is easier to make a throw knife https://totalguide.org/best-throwing-knives/. You don't need to make too much sharper for this type of knives. But, if you want a workable knife, I will suggest to buy from the shop.
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. Last edited by kenmoik; 10-17-18 at 06:30 AM. |
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#108 |
Starte das Auto
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It's a shame that Antze has left us as he'd surely know the answer to this.
The guys who put up my in-laws' 8X6' garden shed covered the roof with fibreglass. Now I've never seen this before; it's a continuous sheet of thin fibreglass (maybe 2mm) over a gently sloping flat timber roof, but they haven't created an overhang after wrapping it over the edges of the roof. If I'd covered this roof with felt, I'd have left an overhang of a couple of inches all round to shed the water. They've instead just cut the fibreglass level with the lower edge of the timber roof's frame. Anyway, there are no cracks in this roof but it's leaking inside, and I think that maybe water is getting sucked in along this outer edge by capillary action (Moira's father was a fish farmer, used to building all kinds of systems to handle and contain water, and his favourite saying was "Water will always find a way"). My question is: if I run a sealant all round to seal the edge of the fibregass to the timber, what would be the best sealant to use? I don't want one that's going to be incompatible with the fibreglass, that's the main thing.
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#109 |
Ocean Warrior
![]() Join Date: Mar 2004
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Are there fasteners that penetrate the fiberglass and secure it to the rafters? My friend bought an Arrow shed which we assembled according to the direction, but it leaked badly right from the start. We found that we had to go back and remove every screw, put a dollop of silicone caulking on them all, and then fasten them again. No more leaks after that.
You may also be correct, the shed might have needed a drip edge type of product ![]() Image being interesting because I never realized you leave a gap between the drip edge and the fascia in case any water gets through the sheathing. Image being also a bit confusing because shingles go over top of the drip edge and the fascia yet also. The sheathing is the black felt paper only.
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ISRAEL: Essentially "The Alamo" 24/7, 365 since 1947 Last edited by em2nought; 08-31-18 at 07:04 PM. Reason: image change |
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#110 |
Starte das Auto
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Thanks. There are no fasteners... I'm guessing the fibreglass was glued down onto the timber roof. Did you use an outdoor silicone caulking or a regular bathroom type?
And looking at your picture, I'm thinking maybe I'd best try inserting a drip-edge all around (between the fibreglass and the wood frame). I think there might be enough of a gap to push a plastic strip in there with some gorilla glue or something on it (the fibreglass is wrapped over the edge all round, but does not hang down to shed the water)
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#111 |
Dipped Squirrel Operative
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You need a frost-proof silicone, a building- or better well- silicone. No bathroom type, indoor stuff usually is not up for the job.
You can also use screws to bolt it down, then you need special ones that are watertight, in german we call them a "Spenglerschraube" (roofing screw? They have a kind of special-formed washer or collar, with a rubber/silicon ring). Best made of copper, or here stainless steel would be better. Then you have to drill first, otherwise you will have cracks in the fibreglass. Whatever, you have to have a drip edge or an eaves gutter that keeps the water away from the critical edge. Those guys should at least have installed an overhang.
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>^..^<*)))>{ All generalizations are wrong. Last edited by Catfish; 09-01-18 at 05:18 AM. |
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#112 |
Ocean Warrior
![]() Join Date: Mar 2004
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We(and that's being generous since it was mostly me) used an exterior grade silicone caulk. I think I had to talk the lazy cheap @ss into splurging for it.
The fasteners we used had a little vinyl washer that was supposed to do the job, but failed miserably. I'm surprised Arrow has never had a class action lawsuit over that, and been force to send out proper roofing screws. I think you could probably tuck and glue a drip edge under like you mention and have it fix your problem. You might also be having condensation form on the underside of the fiberglass and drip down which a wall vent or two might relieve.
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ISRAEL: Essentially "The Alamo" 24/7, 365 since 1947 |
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#113 |
Starte das Auto
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Thanks to you both
![]() Maybe you can help with my other question below...
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#114 |
Starte das Auto
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It's not load-bearing, just the narrow corner trim at one end of my concrete pre-fab garage (one of those with a 'brick' pattern moulded into it)
I reckon moisture has got in over the years and caused the metal inside to corrode, expand then crack the concrete. My question is how best to stop them continuing and getting bigger... I can keep water out to a degree by mortaring-up the cracks, but wouldn't it be best to inject some kind of waterproof adhesive first? What about Gorilla Glue... that is powerful, expands like expanding foam, and is waterproof too?
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#115 |
Dipped Squirrel Operative
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Once the concrete has cracked and let water in, there is not much you can do. WIth contact to air and water, the iron will continue to oxidise. I do not know so much about what to do in such a case, first would be to stop further water and air entering the concrete..
![]() This is a serious problem with older concrete bridges here ![]() edit: this is more an explanation why it happens, with a short comment on how to repair.. Concrete
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>^..^<*)))>{ All generalizations are wrong. Last edited by Catfish; 09-02-18 at 05:58 AM. |
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#116 |
Chief of the Boat
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Easy for me to sayI know and it isn't my roof but if water degradation has taken place I'd be looking to replace the roof if funds permit.
Sealing it up only maintains the water in situ and allows it to continue its negative effect unseen.
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