Fantastic work, Siara!:up:
Makes me feel motivated to stop procrastinating and get to work on the 1/144th scale Type VIID I have in the stash!:yep:

Bort - ive started work on 1/144 VIID months ago - and when i finaly set my eyes on the 1/72 im building now , there was no comparison.
The 1/72 is superior in every department , and the size of the boat is overwhelming. The 1/144 must wait. Problem is i dont know if its ever going to be finished as Revell just released the VIIB in the same scale , and detail is good if not very good.
There is plans to make the type II in 1/72 so the plans might change soon.

I hope you going to make your own thread in this forum about Your build - just like Savvy , and Chock did.

Lets keep`em coming....:up:

Just wanted to express my appreciation
 

I am enjoying this thread very much. I just looked on Amazon and there are two different type VII models available, a VII C/41 and a VII C. The VII C/41 has a few more pieces. The prices are very similar, the numbers of models on hand are few.
At any rate, this thread is a real joy. I also went looking on some of the "side trips" that have been mentioned here. and thoroughly enjoyed the acount of the assembly related here:
http://www.rokket.biz/models/modelsw...57/index.shtml

Good going folks. I wish you "fair winds and a following sea".

Old Dog

Even tho it looks like nothing is happening in the "shipyard" , im working at the project still. Ive just contacted the guy making all sorts of decals for train scale toys about possibility of making the waterline decals for my boat.
U-boats had 6 sets of numbers on both sides of the hull for trimming.
Eric Ethridge from E.L.S Trains agreed to make such decals to scale but will require the foto.
Is anyone in possesion of any picture of waterline markings of U-boat?
I have one picture , but is not clear , and i dont know how accurate the decals r going to look.

Also Eric mentioned that if someone is building the same model and decides on buying the decals , production cost can be cut down /Eric wrote:"The artwork charge will be $15.00 for six decals you requested in white. $10.00 to make the decal set with the six different decals. Total is $15.00 plus $10.00 = $25.00 Additional sets are only the $10.00 per set charge."/

Let me know if you like the set of decals slightly cheaper.


PS:I took a lot of snaps during my recent holiday but this one takes some beating . Its quiet hard to take snap like like that these days , due to obvious security issues...
http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/4...0072yw4.th.jpg

If you have a photo editing program and a few decent typfaces, you could create the decals yourself, just get some blank waterslide paper and print them on it. I've done that a few times in the past, you can get the paper here (and lots of other places too):

http://www.beldecal.com/model_decals.cfm

I'll have a look for a decent photo of the markings.

:D Chock

Waterline Decals
 

Hi Siara,
Last night I spotted what might be the photos you need in the "Progress" postings on rokket.biz.
One of his pages shows the waterline decals and placement:
http://www.rokket.biz/models/modelsw...7/ubrass.shtml

What I think you're looking for is at the bottom of the page.

Good Luck Man,

Old Dog

Wooden deck parts
 

:nope: Hello Mate s I have recieved the wooden deck parts from Nautulis but not the resin parts are they not included ?
I think without them I can not use the wooden deck part ?

Thanks, Dutchie-one :nope:

Put it on the wall on some shelf:up:.

Dutchie-one , you need to order the resin inner pressure hull seperately.
I posted the link to you by PM.:up:

I got myself together slowly to work again.
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/306...s004kl6.th.jpg
Fixed template in place of new - paired style floodholes.

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/9...s006qx9.th.jpg
First i used 0,95 mm drillbit , and than 1 mm. You can see how much diference is there between the Revell and new holes. The original holes being much to large and displaced forward.

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/367/holes010el5.th.jpg
Thinning on inside kept to minimum due to filling of Revell holes.

TBC...

Edit:
I nearly forgot , Big thank you Old Dog , and Chock.

Test fitting the torp doors.
Its a tricky part.
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/9...s004wj0.th.jpg

TBC...

I decided to cut away the middle section between torpedo doors.
Than marking the silouette of the PE part on the model i cut the needles plastic away leaving 2-3 mm edge as support.
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/6...a005ek9.th.jpg

...most feared part of the build is actualy not that bad at all. The PE takes a lot of shaping , but with plenty of time and patience the results are good.
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/8...a001ia0.th.jpg

...now it should sit in the groove neatly.

http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/9...a006lb3.th.jpg
:lol:

TBC...

Bravo Siara,

Nice job.

Old Dog

Thank you Old Dog.

I added additional support inside the hull.
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/8...a007iw3.th.jpg

...and than i fixed another styrine strip just to be on the safe side.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/5...a008pb6.th.jpg

TBC...

The floodholes just below the bullnose were filled in.
PE set contains the template for drilling new holes of correct shape.
I decided not to drill , instead i managed to cut out part of unused VIIB doors , as it has correct size and shape holes. The template is going to be used on port side , as 3 holes are required.
The starboard side has only 2 holes on 552.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/728...a011zs8.th.jpg
Fixed in the same maner as torpedo doors - with the groove running along the edge for part to fit flash. After sanding the edges should blend in.

TBC...

:up: The amount of details is stunning!:o

keep it up

HunterICX

Thank you Hunter ICX for kind words.;)

Preliminary sanding before i airbrush the lot to pick up all the imperfections.
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/2...a013rl4.th.jpg
http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/4...a012bx1.th.jpg

TBC...

Revell 74 MAT airbrushed on
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2...a019po6.th.jpg
...it looks decent , but against strong artificial light is a diferent story...
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/4...a015hx6.th.jpg
...back to filling and sanding.

TBC...

Looks pretty good so far. Here's a handy tip for sanding stuff smooth by the way; when you think it it pretty smooth, rub the part gently across your top lip, it's easy to pick up imperfections that way, as the lips are incredibly sensitive and can pick up miniscule bumps.

:D Chock

Hope that you're saving your photos and narrative. They are as thorough and painstaking as your assembly efforts.

Old Dog

Thanks Old Dog.

Anchor well needs to be moved 7mm forward.
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/8909/blaszkase4.th.jpg
It was a bit to deep , and after cuting it out i skimmed the edge about 1 mm on the sheet of 600 grade sandpaper.
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/3...a001zx2.th.jpg
...anchor well in place...

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/8...a002la1.th.jpg
...backing from styrene...

http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/997...a003io5.th.jpg
...now simple task of filling the gap.

TBC...