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Old 11-24-14, 07:22 AM   #61
Jimbuna
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Video is fine but the sound isn't
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Old 11-30-14, 07:13 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbuna View Post
Video is fine but the sound isn't
Not a fan of Franky?

So I finally got the other five boards finished and none of them worked, or none of the clocks worked. I found I'd shifted over one chip leg when making the connections assembly line fashion and carried that mistake over to all of them. Anyway, I found that and fixed it then found that the fourth sequence on the bar graph was not lighting which turned out to be an omitted wire which I then omitted on the other four. That solved left two with bar graph LEDs not lighting. One was solved by finding a couple of cold solder joints and the other by replacing the 3082 chip which was bad.

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Old 12-01-14, 02:17 PM   #63
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Quote:
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Not a fan of Franky?
Not that, what I meant was the sound was intermittent...or was that intentional ?
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Old 12-02-14, 11:57 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbuna View Post
Not that, what I meant was the sound was intermittent...or was that intentional ?
I'm not sure why that would be but the sound was just playing out of the PC speakers when I made the video on my little Nikon camera.
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Old 12-03-14, 10:56 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddahaid View Post
I'm not sure why that would be but the sound was just playing out of the PC speakers when I made the video on my little Nikon camera.
Possible fault at my end then.

Keep up the good work
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Old 12-06-14, 02:30 AM   #66
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Started making the pop-up mechanisms today. The plan is to use two smaller brass telescoping tubes instead of the larger one integrated with the syringe. Doing it this way will hopefully have all the benefits of the easy slide, but attach the pop-up to the front instead of the back housing leaving the vacuform housing space empty. The challenge in doing it this way is the two sets of tubes need to be nicely parallel in two planes or it will bind.

With that in mind I made an alignment jig by carefully silver soldering two tubes together with heavy brass cross pieces. This allows me to JB Weld the two smaller tubes into the pop-up nicely aligned.


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Old 12-07-14, 03:21 PM   #67
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Still working on getting the tubes into the pop-ups with number three setting up now.

The first one, however, is now getting the mating tubes glued in. First job was building dams.


I plugged the tube ends with 6 minute epoxy to keep the JB Weld out before filling the area with the JB Weld.


The thing I have to watch out for here is keeping good alignment, so when things settled some after fussing with it, I taped over the JB Weld, attached the other shell and taped the pop-up into place.


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Old 12-07-14, 08:30 PM   #68
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JB Weld has set up enough to test the alignment. Looks good to me.
http://s225.photobucket.com/user/sir...tml?sort=3&o=0
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Old 12-13-14, 09:27 PM   #69
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Here's the next step putting the syringe, spring and stop in. The second one is setting up now and I plan on adding some more epoxy to the stop bars a bit later.


This shows the stop bar with the stop rotated out of the way which lets the pop-up be removed.


This is the stop rotated into it's normal position. The nice thing about doing it this way is the stop is near the center line which helps keep the pop-up from getting tilted.


Here's a video of it working.
http://s225.photobucket.com/user/sir...tml?sort=3&o=0
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Old 12-20-14, 01:47 PM   #70
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I've got a working prototype now for the catch and release. So far it's been 100% reliable and I think I'll go with it. The release button will need a retainer added to keep it from falling out but that will get done after painting. This one shows some extra bends and so forth from the experimentation but has the concept well in hand.






Video.
http://s225.photobucket.com/user/sir...tml?sort=3&o=0

http://s225.photobucket.com/user/sir...tml?sort=3&o=0
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Old 12-20-14, 05:44 PM   #71
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Purty kewl so far.
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Old 12-21-14, 06:28 PM   #72
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OK, here is the refined version of the latch. Not much changed save the tab is bent differently.


And here's the first pop-up back plate. Whats different about this tricorder is the cover doesn't show from the sides so just making a full plate looks wrong also that cover has rounded edges that match the graphic. So strips with curved tops need to be made and glued to the pop-up.


The power wires will route right over one of the tubes as the only place they will be out of the way.


The cover is sized to the graphic and has at tab at the top. Two screws will hold it on.




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Old 12-21-14, 06:29 PM   #73
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The side strips needed to be shortened to clear the blind nuts but that won't show.






And a new video. Doesn't want to upload.....I'll be back.

Here it is. I know it will show three times later. Photobucket does this sometimes.
http://s225.photobucket.com/user/sir...tml?sort=3&o=0
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Old 12-28-14, 09:24 PM   #74
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Update.

All the pop-up backs are build now and I'm moving on to the vacuform half again. First off is the screen. I was thinking seriously about using a Chronoworx LCD screen on mine and a couple of others but the screens are too small and would look odd. So I scaled that plan back and have made a graphic for them. I used the blue and green movie era display theme.

And came up with this. The shadow on the lower right is my finger holding the transparency in.
I did recreate the circular bit from a pic I saw in the webs but the rest I made up.


So I've made one smoked acrylic display by making a styrene strip frame and dropping the parts in. The back light is made from two cut down light strips salvaged from defective IV pump displays. For this test I just taped them on and taped some white paper over them.








Video.
http://s225.photobucket.com/user/sir...tml?sort=3&o=4
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Old 12-28-14, 09:56 PM   #75
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That's looking really neat!
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