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Old 12-11-2019, 02:27 AM   #16
Skybird
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Wonderworld of christmas mobbing.

I mean modding.

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Old 12-13-2019, 03:54 AM   #17
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Additionall to the new content of one track and four cars, Raceroom yesterday received a huge update, and it is one of the very biggest and most important updates it has ever gotten since I joined the game in early 2015. New physics for many classes, completely new FFB, dynamic day of light from early morning to sunset (no night), new damage model (with suspension damage realyl dojng the trick for me, I'm kind of hooked to it...), to name just a few. What I got in driving experience, was completely different from what I learned to expect over the years, and it is brilliant out of the box, at least for my wheel. There is much stuff that I did not see coming, and the sim has made another lap upwards. I always considered it to be the most underrated racing sim on the marketm but if someobdy still underetsimates it after these chnages, then this poor lad really cannto be helped. Its of heavy calliber weight now at the latest.

And the many Porsches that Raceroom now also incorporates - before you think you do not want so many of the same kind, please step back and take a breath and test them once again, because they are anything but just "all the same". Being of the latest development standard in RR, they represent some of the best cars to be driven in Raceroom, offering a wide range of driving feel and taste.

This is a great party for Raceroom this week. Who would have thought it would reach for the stars after that desastrous, messy start and poor status it was in when they released it first in 2012 or 2013? Many had declared it already dead, then came the collapse of SimBin, the new forming-up of Sector3, and they picked up the smoking pieces and went to work with it - the rest is legend.



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Last edited by Skybird; 12-13-2019 at 05:10 AM.
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Old 12-13-2019, 04:22 PM   #18
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Alright. Downloading it now. Really gotta twist my arm on this one
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Old 12-14-2019, 04:28 AM   #19
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try both the procar bmw and the old Porsche in group 4. Or that individual claassic Porsche class. make sure you set up your wheel well, ffb -wise. stick with the recommendations in their brandnew ffb thread stickied. make sure the wheel rotation angle in menu matches the hardware, virtual and hardware wheel should move in synchronicity.
Mind you, the cars are spread over three different physics, getting updated one by one. try cars with new physics first. its all in the forum.
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Old 12-14-2019, 06:12 AM   #20
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edit: hm, I better make this a separate thread.


RACEROOM starter read:

Physics overview:
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...opments.14049/

How to tune FFB:
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...er-2019.14067/
AND:
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...36#post-191042

Latest patch (Decembre 2019) readme:
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...-update.14056/

Remarks on the background of cars updated in Decembre:
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...gt3-gt4.14052/
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...-procar.14050/

An obligatory must-have in any race sim: Mr. Belowski'S CrewChief app, whcih now seems to be available for every major racing title, originally it was a Raceroom exclusive thing. It does a lot of things, but the most important thing is its spotter function to raise your situational awareness for things happening in close vicinity around you, and the great rise in immersion it provides due to the chatter radio. You must want to get this thing. And for the sake of evertyhign that is holy: listen to your spotter!!
http://thecrewchief.org/

The Car Lookup list, so that you know which car is on what physics status. I just realise that the old physics are practically gone, so there are no longer three but just two standards: "New" and "Newest" You can almost ignore the difference now, the "Old" physics were what had to be avoided. Before "Old", we had the "Floaty Boat" physics.
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...-58-png.19153/

In the FFB section, Thomas recommends:

Force Feedback Intensity: 100%
Smoothing: 0%
Force Feedback Spring: 0%
Force Feedback Damper: 30%

Steering Force Intensity: 60%
Force Feedback Minimum Force: 0%
Understeer: 10%
Vertical Load: 50%
Lateral Force: 50%
Steering Rack: 30%

Slip Effect: 0%
Engine Vibrations: 0%
Kerb Vibrations: 20%
Shift Effect: 0%
Collision Effect: 0%

I recommend much the same, but in the last four lines you can experiment with higher values, and if the wheel in general feels too light for your taste, increase Force Feedback Spring to something around 10-14%. This value makes a huge impact so handle with care.

Note what they say about the difference between heavy duty motors in expensive wheels, and lighter consumer wheels a la Logitech. Note that hardware option presets in the wheel driver can interact with the in-sim options setup, so act with reason there. In the sim, in the key command options, you can attach a key to the ffb tracker to switch it on and off - USE THAT thing to optimise your FFB so that you avoid clipping and too low feedback as well. Raceroom can be difficult to have wheel and FFB set up completely, but its worth it to get there.

Also, the rotation angle of the wheel must be correctly set in the sim. Logitech has 900° rotation, Fanatech 1080, DD wheels obviously limitless. You control that in a car in the pitbox, in the setup options there, in the runnign session. Set it such that the virtual wheel moves in synchronicity with thebhardware wheel. There is also a steering lock, you use that to increase the sensitivity of the simlated car steering. On some tracks, namely Macau, you do not get around certain tight corners if not increasing the lock! Its no deficit of the sim, its like it is in real life.


There are quite some ingame commands of interest, that are not linked to a keyboard key by default, you must do that manually. Its worth to take a deep look at the keyboard list in the options, to learn what there is in hidden functionality that is unknown to the newcomer. Hint: the replays (you can switch off auto-recording, btw.), can look extremely well when using various in-cockpit perspectives, or the auto-director feature and external cameras. In VR, i do not use that, but in single screen times, i used it a very lot.


A word on Adaptive AI, which is often misunderstood. This setting does not alter the AI in a running race, but it alters the AI level in car class choosen over a series of sessions you have done, means: it takes the first complete lap you do in a session and sees how you perform. After three or four such sessions, you have a base score from where further corrections are done in small changes only. The system works, but you usally get a very weak AI in first try (it starts at minimums), a stronger one in second try, a less strong in third, an increase in fourth race, and so forth. You need to train the adaptive AI, that means, and it all depends on doing clean first full laps, means: the lap after your exit lap is what counts, complete that, and you then can leave the session to have it scoring. For just getting a taste of Raceroom's AI, it probably is better to use a fixed setting of lets say somethign around 97-103, if you are a very fgood driver, of course a higher setting. Like always, alien drivers will never be satisfied with the aI, not in any sim there is. The range is from 80-120. The AI skill varies over car classes, the faster and more agile, aggressive the car is, the greater the chance the AI fails due to too small margins for error - which often are being turned into problems by human players overestimating their own capabilities and beign too optimistic when attacking...!!! Ai cars cannot just vanish when yu turn into them, you need to leave them the room "to breath", like with just any human-driven car. Te slower open-wheeler classes work more forgivingly than the very fast ones.

Finally, if somebody likes Raceroom and wants to start with it, the way to go is to buy the Premium pack. You save hilariously ammounts of money and get everything that is available at that time. When I want into the sim, this did not exist, thats why I by now have paid 3-4 times as much as somebody would need to pay for the premium pack - and I did buy mainly smaller packs as well already! Really - its a no-brainer. A starter NEVER should start buying individual cars and tracks. If you buy all stuff there is this way, you end up in the four digit range of a total costs. The premium packs costs you 100 coins over here, in sales even less - and you get EVERYTHING there is so far. EVERYTHING.
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Last edited by Skybird; 12-14-2019 at 07:00 AM.
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