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Old 05-07-2022, 05:13 PM   #1
ajrimmer42
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Default A quintet of Eduard 1/48 Spitfires

I recently picked up a selection of Overtrees in Eduard's post Las Vegas Nats sale. I think these were all under around the £7 mark each. Overtrees are essentially just the plastic parts needed to build the kit - no instructions, decals, PE or masks, which is fine for me as I almost always pickup aftermarket decals at the very least for most of my builds.

It honestly baffles me how Eduard can knock these Spitfires out for such incredibly low prices, they're absolutely beautiful kits, in fact I'd go as far as to say I prefer them to the new Tamiya Mk.I.

So, I'll start with my favourite of the bunch, this is their slightly older Spitfire F Mk.IX. I added an Eduard spACE set to this one (instrument panel, seatbelts etc), and a majority of the markings were sprayed using Montex masks. I chickened out with the fuselage roundels and fin flash which I nabbed from an Xtradecal set. The interesting invasion stripes on this one were added for Op. Starkey in September 1943, part of a series of deception operations designed to lead the Germans into believing the allies were planning a large scale invasion of Boulogne.

All of my builds in recent times utilise the 'black basing' technique, starting with a black undercoat (I prefer Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500), the camo colours are then mottled on top of the dark background using highly thinned lacquer paints sprayed very close to the surface, slowly building up the colour and saturation. This allows easy tonal variation by leaving areas darker, or adding more paint for lighter parts. I find it gives a little more control than traditional pre-shading. I apply a coat of Flory Models Dark Dirt wash over a gloss coat applied after the decals. This is a clay based wash that can be wiped off after drying leaving it just in panel lines, rivets etc. Final weathering is done over a coat of VMS Satin Varnish with various oil paints, and some final chipping added with a Prismacolor silver pencil.





















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Old 05-07-2022, 05:17 PM   #2
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Very impressive, Alex.
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Old 05-07-2022, 05:21 PM   #3
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Second up, this is Eduard's more recent Mk.Vc. I have a soft spot for aircraft in unusual schemes, so this one was right up my alley. It was also nice not to have to paint a camo pattern on this one! Decals were from Xtradecal's Mk.Vb/Vc set.













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Old 05-07-2022, 05:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Onkel Neal View Post
Very impressive, Alex.
Thanks Neal!
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Old 05-07-2022, 05:26 PM   #5
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Number 3, another Mk.Vc, the second unusual scheme I just had to build! Decals on this one again came from the Xtradecal set.













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Old 05-07-2022, 05:30 PM   #6
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Numero 4, the third and final Vc. This one had some Eduard seatbelts added, along with a Yahu instrument panel. Decals are Xtradecals.























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Old 05-07-2022, 05:33 PM   #7
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And finally for now, a more traditional Mk.Vb. I was a bit spitfired out by this point as these were all built within about 2 months! Same as the last one, this had Eduard seatbelts, a Yahu IP, and Xtradecals.





















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Old 05-07-2022, 06:07 PM   #8
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I say the same as Neal Impressive and I will add you really master this weathering technic...They looks like they were real plane who have been through some air battle

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Old 05-08-2022, 08:35 PM   #9
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May I ask, do you spray a clear gloss varnish before you apply decals? And do you use Micro Set and Sol?
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Old 05-09-2022, 07:22 PM   #10
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Awesome work!!
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Old 05-23-2022, 05:56 AM   #11
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Thanks chaps!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Onkel Neal View Post
May I ask, do you spray a clear gloss varnish before you apply decals? And do you use Micro Set and Sol?
I personally always do gloss before decals. It can inexplicably be a bit of a hot subject within the scale modelling community but IMHO glossing gives the absolute best possible conditions for the best possible results. Sure you don't HAVE to gloss with modern decal setting solutions but there's a higher risk of getting silvering.

I do use Micro Set/Sol, and I've also been using the VMS equivalents too which I find work really well. For me the 'Set' portion, i.e. the adhesive isn't as necessary as the softening part so sometimes I forgo that bit.

Incidentally, I have also had really excellent results simply using Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinners as a decal softening solution, I find it actually gets better results with a wider range of decals than most other dedicated softeners I've tried.

I've tried most decal solutions on the market previously - Daco Strong, Tamiya Markfit Medium/Strong, Mr Hobby Softer (NOT the Neo version) and I have to say I've never got any of those to work.
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Old 05-23-2022, 07:23 AM   #12
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Ah, ok. I guess that means I will spray a clear gloss coat over the sub's matt paint, then decal. Then coat with clear matt ?
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Old 05-24-2022, 06:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajrimmer42 View Post

Incidentally, I have also had really excellent results simply using Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinners as a decal softening solution, I find it actually gets better results with a wider range of decals than most other dedicated softeners I've tried.

Wait a minute, are you talking about X-20 ("enamel") or X-20A ("acrylic")?
Tamiya's chemistry has always been a little "out there" in terms of being potent , but I've always associated decal film with lacquer based paints.

Which begs the question, has anyone tried to use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement on really stubborn decals? I've thought about it but have never had the courage to actually try it.

Some old school decal secrets- I've long been a fan of Micro Set but for stubborn decals I've had good results using Testor's "Dull Cote Lacquer" and "Sealer for Metalizer". Both use lacquer based solvents but are mild enough to not turn your decals into mashed potatos.
While they have been extinct for a couple of years, they were also sold in large (52 mL) bottles that tend to stick around for a long while.
Dull Cote, when applied with a small brush, is also effective for getting rid of the "seam" you get from thick decals. Just lightly sand or polish out the seam after the paint dries.
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Old 05-24-2022, 11:16 PM   #14
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One thing I've had some good success with is using a solution of white glue/PVA thinned down with water, a proviso being that the product actually dries clear. Brushed on and ensuring to get plenty underneath the surface, this acts as a softener and setter. Sucks everything down into the panel lines, adheres well to the surface and won't dissolve your decal. It may leave some slight visible residue on the surrounds which can easily be mopped up with water and a cotton bud or such. Then if you don't like the position or something after it's dried, just add water! Finally spray the clear coat of your choice for the final finish. A cheap and practical alternative to the myriad of specialty products. Worth a few tests if you have some spare decals lying around.
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Old 05-25-2022, 03:11 PM   #15
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Stork, I will try that, thanks! Seems the decals on my 25 year old kit are exploding when I try to transfer them from the backing paper.
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