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Old 05-30-2022, 01:27 AM   #16
ajrimmer42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ET2SN View Post

Wait a minute, are you talking about X-20 ("enamel") or X-20A ("acrylic")?
Tamiya's chemistry has always been a little "out there" in terms of being potent , but I've always associated decal film with lacquer based paints.

Which begs the question, has anyone tried to use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement on really stubborn decals? I've thought about it but have never had the courage to actually try it.
X-20A Acrylic thinners, it works amazingly well! I have also heard of using Tamiya Extra Thin on really stubborn decals but I've never plucked up the courage!

Quote:
Originally Posted by stork100 View Post
One thing I've had some good success with is using a solution of white glue/PVA thinned down with water, a proviso being that the product actually dries clear. Brushed on and ensuring to get plenty underneath the surface, this acts as a softener and setter. Sucks everything down into the panel lines, adheres well to the surface and won't dissolve your decal. It may leave some slight visible residue on the surrounds which can easily be mopped up with water and a cotton bud or such. Then if you don't like the position or something after it's dried, just add water! Finally spray the clear coat of your choice for the final finish. A cheap and practical alternative to the myriad of specialty products. Worth a few tests if you have some spare decals lying around.
Sounds like a good idea, I'm fairly sure the VMS Decal Setting solution I use at the moment it basically just a very mild adhesive so I can see how watered down PVA would work. I have used Johnson's Klear in a pinch too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Onkel Neal View Post
Stork, I will try that, thanks! Seems the decals on my 25 year old kit are exploding when I try to transfer them from the backing paper.
Try giving the decals a coat of Microscale Decal Film, that should prevent them from breaking up.
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