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Skybird · 12-14-19, 08:01 AM

RACEROOM starter read:

Physics overview:
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...opments.14049/

How to tune FFB:
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...er-2019.14067/
AND:
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...36#post-191042

Latest patch (Decembre 2019) readme:
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...-update.14056/

Remarks on the background of cars updated in Decembre:
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...gt3-gt4.14052/
https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...-procar.14050/

An obligatory must-have in any race sim: Mr. Belowski'S CrewChief app, whcih now seems to be available for every major racing title, originally it was a Raceroom exclusive thing. It does a lot of things, but the most important thing is its spotter function to raise your situational awareness for things happening in close vicinity around you, and the great rise in immersion it provides due to the chatter radio. You must want to get this thing. And for the sake of evertyhign that is holy: listen to your spotter!!
http://thecrewchief.org/

The Car Lookup list, so that you know which car is on what physics status. I just realise that the old physics are practically gone, so there are no longer three but just two standards: "New" and "Newest" You can almost ignore the difference now, the "Old" physics were what had to be avoided. Before "Old", we had the "Floaty Boat" physics.

https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...-58-png.19153/

In the FFB section, Thomas recommends:

Force Feedback Intensity: 100%
Smoothing: 0%
Force Feedback Spring: 0%
Force Feedback Damper: 30%

Steering Force Intensity: 60%
Force Feedback Minimum Force: 0%
Understeer: 10%
Vertical Load: 50%
Lateral Force: 50%
Steering Rack: 30%

Slip Effect: 0%
Engine Vibrations: 0%
Kerb Vibrations: 20%
Shift Effect: 0%
Collision Effect: 0%

I recommend much the same, but in the last four lines you can experiment with higher values, and if the wheel in general feels too light for your taste, increase Force Feedback Spring to something around 10-14%. This value makes a huge impact so handle with care.

Note what they say about the difference between heavy duty motors in expensive wheels, and lighter consumer wheels a la Logitech. Note that hardware option presets in the wheel driver can interact with the in-sim options setup, so act with reason there. In the sim, in the key command options, you can attach a key to the ffb tracker to switch it on and off - USE THAT thing to optimise your FFB so that you avoid clipping and too low feedback as well. Raceroom can be difficult to have wheel and FFB set up completely, but its worth it to get there.

Also, the rotation angle of the wheel must be correctly set in the sim. Logitech has 900° rotation, Fanatech 1080, DD wheels obviously limitless. You control that in a car in the pitbox, in the setup options there, in the runnign session. Set it such that the virtual wheel moves in synchronicity with thebhardware wheel. There is also a steering lock, you use that to increase the sensitivity of the simlated car steering. On some tracks, namely Macau, you do not get around certain tight corners if not increasing the lock! Its no deficit of the sim, its like it is in real life.

Finally be advised that you can alter FFB strength individually per car in the pitbox car setup screen. I think its called FFB multiplier. I do not use it, but that FFB can be individually influenced on a car-to-car basies should be mentioned. The whole screen layout for pitbox car setup has been revamped in recent update, before it all was on one single screen, now they have several tabs and a new design.

There are quite some ingame commands of interest, that are not linked to a keyboard key by default, you must do that manually. Its worth to take a deep look at the keyboard list in the options, to learn what there is in hidden functionality that is unknown to the newcomer. Hint: the replays (you can switch off auto-recording, btw.), can look extremely well when using various in-cockpit perspectives, or the auto-director feature and external cameras. In VR, i do not use that, but in single screen times, i used it a very lot.

A word on Adaptive AI, which is often misunderstood. This setting does not alter the AI in a running race, but it alters the AI level in car class choosen over a series of sessions you have done, means: it takes the first complete lap you do in a session and sees how you perform. After three or four such sessions, you have a base score from where further corrections are done in small changes only. The system works, but you usally get a very weak AI in first try (it starts at minimums), a stronger one in second try, a less strong in third, an increase in fourth race, and so forth. You need to train the adaptive AI, that means, and it all depends on doing clean first full laps, means: the lap after your exit lap is what counts, complete that, and you then can leave the session to have it scoring. For just getting a taste of Raceroom's AI, it probably is better to use a fixed setting of lets say somethign around 97-103, if you are a very fgood driver, of course a higher setting. Like always, alien drivers will never be satisfied with the aI, not in any sim there is. The range is from 80-120. The AI skill varies over car classes, the faster and more agile, aggressive the car is, the greater the chance the AI fails due to too small margins for error - which often are being turned into problems by human players overestimating their own capabilities and beign too optimistic when attacking...!!! Ai cars cannot just vanish when yu turn into them, you need to leave them the room "to breath", like with just any human-driven car. Te slower open-wheeler classes work more forgivingly than the very fast ones.

Finally, if somebody likes Raceroom and wants to start with it, the way to go is to buy the Premium pack. You save hilariously ammounts of money and get everything that is available at that time. When I want into the sim, this did not exist, thats why I by now have paid 3-4 times as much as somebody would need to pay for the premium pack - and I did buy mainly smaller packs as well already! Really - its a no-brainer. A starter NEVER should start buying individual cars and tracks. If you buy all stuff there is this way, you end up in the four digit range of a total costs. The premium packs costs you 100 coins over here, in sales even less - and you get EVERYTHING there is so far. EVERYTHING.

12-14-19, 08:01 AM	#1
Skybird Soaring Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: the mental asylum named Germany Posts: 40,457 Downloads: 9 Uploads: 0	RACEROOM for starters RACEROOM starter read: Physics overview: https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...opments.14049/ How to tune FFB: https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...er-2019.14067/ AND: https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...36#post-191042 Latest patch (Decembre 2019) readme: https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...-update.14056/ Remarks on the background of cars updated in Decembre: https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...gt3-gt4.14052/ https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...-procar.14050/ An obligatory must-have in any race sim: Mr. Belowski'S CrewChief app, whcih now seems to be available for every major racing title, originally it was a Raceroom exclusive thing. It does a lot of things, but the most important thing is its spotter function to raise your situational awareness for things happening in close vicinity around you, and the great rise in immersion it provides due to the chatter radio. You must want to get this thing. And for the sake of evertyhign that is holy: listen to your spotter!! http://thecrewchief.org/ The Car Lookup list, so that you know which car is on what physics status. I just realise that the old physics are practically gone, so there are no longer three but just two standards: "New" and "Newest" You can almost ignore the difference now, the "Old" physics were what had to be avoided. Before "Old", we had the "Floaty Boat" physics. https://forum.sector3studios.com/ind...-58-png.19153/ In the FFB section, Thomas recommends: Force Feedback Intensity: 100% Smoothing: 0% Force Feedback Spring: 0% Force Feedback Damper: 30% Steering Force Intensity: 60% Force Feedback Minimum Force: 0% Understeer: 10% Vertical Load: 50% Lateral Force: 50% Steering Rack: 30% Slip Effect: 0% Engine Vibrations: 0% Kerb Vibrations: 20% Shift Effect: 0% Collision Effect: 0% I recommend much the same, but in the last four lines you can experiment with higher values, and if the wheel in general feels too light for your taste, increase Force Feedback Spring to something around 10-14%. This value makes a huge impact so handle with care. Note what they say about the difference between heavy duty motors in expensive wheels, and lighter consumer wheels a la Logitech. Note that hardware option presets in the wheel driver can interact with the in-sim options setup, so act with reason there. In the sim, in the key command options, you can attach a key to the ffb tracker to switch it on and off - USE THAT thing to optimise your FFB so that you avoid clipping and too low feedback as well. Raceroom can be difficult to have wheel and FFB set up completely, but its worth it to get there. Also, the rotation angle of the wheel must be correctly set in the sim. Logitech has 900° rotation, Fanatech 1080, DD wheels obviously limitless. You control that in a car in the pitbox, in the setup options there, in the runnign session. Set it such that the virtual wheel moves in synchronicity with thebhardware wheel. There is also a steering lock, you use that to increase the sensitivity of the simlated car steering. On some tracks, namely Macau, you do not get around certain tight corners if not increasing the lock! Its no deficit of the sim, its like it is in real life. Finally be advised that you can alter FFB strength individually per car in the pitbox car setup screen. I think its called FFB multiplier. I do not use it, but that FFB can be individually influenced on a car-to-car basies should be mentioned. The whole screen layout for pitbox car setup has been revamped in recent update, before it all was on one single screen, now they have several tabs and a new design. There are quite some ingame commands of interest, that are not linked to a keyboard key by default, you must do that manually. Its worth to take a deep look at the keyboard list in the options, to learn what there is in hidden functionality that is unknown to the newcomer. Hint: the replays (you can switch off auto-recording, btw.), can look extremely well when using various in-cockpit perspectives, or the auto-director feature and external cameras. In VR, i do not use that, but in single screen times, i used it a very lot. A word on Adaptive AI, which is often misunderstood. This setting does not alter the AI in a running race, but it alters the AI level in car class choosen over a series of sessions you have done, means: it takes the first complete lap you do in a session and sees how you perform. After three or four such sessions, you have a base score from where further corrections are done in small changes only. The system works, but you usally get a very weak AI in first try (it starts at minimums), a stronger one in second try, a less strong in third, an increase in fourth race, and so forth. You need to train the adaptive AI, that means, and it all depends on doing clean first full laps, means: the lap after your exit lap is what counts, complete that, and you then can leave the session to have it scoring. For just getting a taste of Raceroom's AI, it probably is better to use a fixed setting of lets say somethign around 97-103, if you are a very fgood driver, of course a higher setting. Like always, alien drivers will never be satisfied with the aI, not in any sim there is. The range is from 80-120. The AI skill varies over car classes, the faster and more agile, aggressive the car is, the greater the chance the AI fails due to too small margins for error - which often are being turned into problems by human players overestimating their own capabilities and beign too optimistic when attacking...!!! Ai cars cannot just vanish when yu turn into them, you need to leave them the room "to breath", like with just any human-driven car. Te slower open-wheeler classes work more forgivingly than the very fast ones. Finally, if somebody likes Raceroom and wants to start with it, the way to go is to buy the Premium pack. You save hilariously ammounts of money and get everything that is available at that time. When I want into the sim, this did not exist, thats why I by now have paid 3-4 times as much as somebody would need to pay for the premium pack - and I did buy mainly smaller packs as well already! Really - its a no-brainer. A starter NEVER should start buying individual cars and tracks. If you buy all stuff there is this way, you end up in the four digit range of a total costs. The premium packs costs you 100 coins over here, in sales even less - and you get EVERYTHING there is so far. EVERYTHING. __________________ If you feel nuts, consult an expert. Last edited by Skybird; 12-14-19 at 10:05 AM.