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Originally Posted by Foghladh_mhara
So let me run this by you. Submerged shot using stern tube. Perpendicular to target track. I lock scope to 180, hit F6 and set AoB. Do you then set the bearing dial to 180 or 0? Does the bearing dial relate to the boat bearing or the torpedo bearing relative to the target?
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So now I'm a bit confused. In your initial post you said you were using the "fast 90" method. I'm assuming that's the Basic Fast 90. If not, please advise.
With that method
you don't have to touch the bearing dial. I've never adjusted it once and I never miss with Fast 90 assuming I've got good estimates of speed and course. If you think this is the problem, set your scope to 0, toggle manual targeting, set the bearing dial to 0, toggle back to auto, and then leave it alone. I don't adjust it for stern shots. I will check tonight if it is automatically going to 180 when I turn the scope to 180 - but I can tell you that I don't do it myself.
All you should do, after you get yourself perpendicular to the target's course:
1) Set your scope to 180, then hit F6 to go to the TDC.
2) Set up your normal torpedo settings - salvo, impact/magnetic, spread, depth.
3) Toggle to manual targeting.
4) Set the range dial to the distance to the target - not the current range, but the range you expect the target to be at the moment when you launch torpedoes.
5) Set target speed. With Fast 90, the accuracy of the estimate of the target's speed has a big impact on hit accuracy.
6) Set the AoB dial to either 90 port or starboard. If the target is passing your stern from left to right, that's a starboard shot; from right to left, that's a port shot. Remember this is in relation to the direction he passes your stern for a stern shot.
7) Toggle back to auto targeting mode. Sometimes I forget to do this with rather disastrous results.
From this point forward, your scope should be providing the adjustments to AoB directly to the TDC.
Quick note on getting target speed:
I assume you are using the 3:14 second rule and then measuring how far the target has traveled in that time to get his speed. However, remember that the frickin' ruler tool is somewhat misleading. For example, when it first changes from 6 to 7km - at that exact point where the number on the ruler changes to 7km - the distance is actually 6.5km.
Try it out on the grid. Zoom in all the way to the 500m scale. Then measure 500m - it will show 1km on the ruler. This will induce error in your speed estimates if you don't compensate.
One last thing to tell if something is broken. After you're all done, everything is set and you've toggled back to auto mode, go to your scope and turn it towards the incoming target until the gyro angle reads 000. Then go back to F6 - the predicted torp track should now show coming straight out - perfectly straight - from your stern. If not, something's wrong.