Sorry If I barged in on your post as an elephant in a china shop, ser.
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Originally Posted by Reece
his method is great for a math genius!
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I am by no means a math genius, if I ever find a genie in a bottle, that's the first thing on my wish list, after Gwyneth Paltrow.
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Originally Posted by Reece
the only thing that matters is an easy way of setting up the TDC either directly or via the Stadimeter.
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I agree,
We have 5 different figures to imput. Some need to be dead accurate, and some not IMHO. Ok when knowing this what do we need to input:
- Target Speed (needs to be dead accurate)
- Target Draft (needs to be very accurate)
- Target Distance (doesn't need to be accurate)
- Target Bearing (needs to be more accurate if being further away from your target)
- AOB (guesstimate is more than enough)
And then we need to tweak some things according to the situation, such as Torp speed, Salvo shot yes/no and Magnetic vs Contact detonation.
SPEED the constant figure and a pain in the @rse:
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I'm using this method for calm seas (stadimeter is usable) and
this way in rough seas.
- You raise your perisope and take note of two things:
A) read the BEARING to the target ship in degrees (Precision Periscope Mod required download
here (will not mess with GWX nor stock install of SH3) and WRITE it down on a piece of paper. Yes, Yes real paper.
B) Measure the DISTANCE using the stadimeter (calm seas provided) and WRITE it down as well.
C) if you noted these two, IMMEDIATELY start the stopwatch provided. And lower the persicope.
Now a little word of explanation on the screenshot above:
Markierung 1: Position of my u boat engines dead going 0 knots
Markierung 6: position of the target just after measuring A and B and doing C. Just use a ruler and for 1675 meters for example draw a line that is 16.75 cm on a piece of paper.
D) keep an eye on the stopwatch and when it reaches 2.45' raise the periscope again.
repeat steps A and B and WRITE them down on a piece of paper.
Markierung10: postition of the target AFTER 3 minutes 15 secs. say this is 1500 m
connect both Markierung 10 and 6 and MEASURE the distance. if this is 600m then your target is going 6 Knots, if it's 700m your target is doing 7 Knots, if its 750 then your taget is (youve guessed it 7.5 knots)
No calculations involved here, using the 3.15 minutes rule.
A note on using the stadimeter. To correctly use the stadimeter using the reference manual, choose the CORRECT freighter/warship and use the stadimeter on the CORRECT mast. This can be a problem sometimes. Here's a picture of what I mean:
The correct mast you will need to pick using the stadimeter.
DRAFT or manual vs magnetic detonation
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Depending on sea state ( I would not advise using magnetic detonation in anything else than calm seas) I set the torp depth running for magnetic about half a meter more than the ships draft. In heavy seas I keep the AoB close to 90° before taking a shot and set the running depth of a torp at 5-6 meters for Merchants.
DISTANCE: torpedo arming itself beyond the imput range ?
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I never worry about this much, for example, if my target is at 2000 m I don't set it to 300 but at about 1200m or 1000m
BEARING
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Have one last look through the persicope/Uzo and be sure to keep this to a minimum to minimize errors. (the torp must describe a minimal arc after leaving the tube)
AOB
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If your target looks like the munitions freighter depicted above then your AOB is 90° STB, set the needle accordingly and let her rip. If the pos is not 90° you can always wait, and use a combination of Hydrophone and Periscope to track the target until it has an approximate 90° AOB starboard/port position.
No complicated formulas were used and you have all the required figures for the manual TDC.
- Torp speed: I set them to fast (less likely the target will spot and evade my torp and only available with steam driven tropedoes)
-Salvo yes/no: 1 torp for the small merchants - 2 torps for the bigger merchants - all torps for the battleships
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Originally Posted by Reece
Wazoos tutorial is too hard, call me stupid if you like  but that is why I sat down to simply apply the actual angles using compass & protractor, no formulas.  |
I would by no means treat you such unkind words ser, and formulas are unnecessary. As you can see I don't use them either, the only thing I do is measure distances.
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Originally Posted by Reece
Wazoos method (I have it printed out) uses a mod to SH3 adding another tool, I don't even know where to get the tool now, it is used in section II of his manual.  |
No tools needed, this can even be done (with some practice) with the stock tools.