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Thanks for the information, a lot of great stuff in there I'll work to applying. Would you recommend Mk.37s on passive or active? I've been making most of my shots on active, and I've seen the AI try to go dead in the water like they're trying to spoof a passive torpedo, but I've also heard that passive mode is incredibly effective, though they're always talking about the Mk.84, and I'm not entirely sure how applicable advice for the Mk.84 is sensor wise on the Mk.37.
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Historically the US Navy recommend active unless you had good sonar conditions, and expected the threat to be either cavitating or making 60 db over ambient noise. I have no clue exactly how sensitive the seeker is modeled in CW. So with all that said, here's roughly how I shoot them:
Subs:
-If I'm in the baffles and I think I can sneak the fish close (2K yds or less) - passive
-Boats that will be noisy when they run and I'm not feeling like the wire will make it all the way there - passive (less chance of alerting them on a long range shot if it enables sooner then is ideal)
-Quieter boats - active
-Snap shots and head on shots - active
Surface
-If I'm in the baffles and I think I can sneak the fish close (2K yds or less) - passive
-Targets that I know the Mk37 can run down, and I'm not worried about anyone knowing there a torpedo in the water - active
-Escorts that I'm trying to eliminate and I'm close (2k yds or less) - passive
-Escorts that I'm trying to drive off - active
In general I use passive to decrease the torpedoes signature to try and sneak it on target. To me at least, it seems to allow for a lower profile, particularly if I can dog leg the torpedo in rather then shooting a direct bearing (breaking wires can make this an exercise in frustration however). Long range shots where I'm playing the odds on the target still being in the area, etc. I like to use passive as even if I miscalculated there's not a torpedo pinging around somewhere. I've had a few occasions where my miss went completely unnoticed. The MK37 works very well against slower non-maneuverable surface ships, they don't have noise makers so all they can do is run in a straight line at full throttle. The perfect target for a passive seeker. The same largely applies to diesel boats, and first gen nuke boats. They may get lucky with a noisemaker or two, but in general it's a solid chance at a hit.
I use active when I want the world to know there's a torpedo in the water, either to drive an escort off, or to force a change in course from a target (I've almost gotten a tender to turn into a spread of MK16's this way, but no luck so far). I also use it when I want to raise my chances at scoring a hit, particularly when I'm unlikely to be able to keep the wires (like in the middle of a knife fight). If it's close and nasty (like say the target that you were in the baffles of whips around at the exact wrong moment at 2.5kyds), I shoot them direct on the current bearing (don't worry about the intercept point) set to active with the activation point just a few hundred yds off my own bow. Most of the time this will force the target onto the defensive and you can extend to create distance for a more favorable shot.
If you're a flight simmer as well, think of it as a real slow motion dog fight. Same concepts. Passive is an IR missile, active is a AR or SARH missile. Long distance shots are BVR, and close range is a dogfight. The maneuverings a little different (you can't really yo-yo in the traditional sense), but it actually translates quite well.
One additional thing I'll toss out about the Mk37. If you get one stuck on your tail by accident (let's be honest it's happened to us all), it's not the almost death sentence of a Mk48 even if it's close. If there are still threats, go to flank, and launch a couple more Mk37 set to active in their general direction. The things run for about 20 minutes, so it'll keep everybody busy. If you're driving a Skipjack, just put the throttle to flank and cruise away. Don't play games trying to dodge and decoy it, just drive away and don't waste time. In a Skipjack at flank speed you'll move out it's detection radius in few minutes, and then you can get back to the business of shooting at the enemy. In a Permit worst case it'll take about 10 minutes to get of detection range, but it will work. If your driving a Sturgeon, you'll have to evade unless the torpedo had all ready traveled a good chunk of it's range.
Also one additional tactical note. Don't be afraid to go active if you need to localize a contact NOW, or the sonar conditions are just horrible. You have a pretty good active sonar in any of the '68 boats. If you look at your signal strengths when you have a contact you'll often times see that may have a 10+ signal for your active sonar, while most soviet boats are negative or just barely above zero. Yes they'll get an active intercept just like you will, but that really doesn't tell them anymore then when you get one. Sure with a grease pencil, some time, and a few more pings they can start to do TMA, but ideally you'll already have a pair of MK37's impacting.
-Jenrick