Happy update: I found windowed mode at 1600x900 to be tolerable, but a little exhausting when you are required to read bearings/headings on the sonar controls and plotting on the navigation map at the pixel level.
Based on something I read online, I decided to try to run the game as administrator. And viola, that allowed me to finally run at full resolution, full screen. How nice that is going to be: no more distracting desktop icons to ignore, no more peering at the screen straining my eyes.
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