Construction Project help
 

My girlfriend and I have started a noble undertaking to build a drinking game.

It is a large scale battleship game wherein the ships are 18-20 inches in length and the game board is a massive 5'x10' fold up table.

we have already built one battleship as a test bed and it looks pretty good.

so far our idea is to build the ships out of wood. Pine hulls with balsa guns and superstructures. but the pine takes a while to cut and sand into a hull shape

main thing is keeping cost to a minimum.

object of the game.

the ships will hold shot glasses in place of peg holes.

When you get hit, you have to take a shot.

here is a pic of our first battleship. this was constructed as a proof of concept only.

any tips, ideas or suggestions? materials? size? look of the ships etc?

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6O3cvxcleg...1600/photo.JPG

Balsa blocks can be purchased for the hulls. Easier to sand to shape. Once done, paint on epoxy resin for strength with the softer balsa material plus it will be beer proof. :D

Instead of Battleship call it Beership.

nice

Where can I get a girlfriend like yours

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:rotfl2:

Nice ideas though. My only suggestion would to maybe make the hulls out of Styrofoam and put an epoxy resin on it just so you can more easily make the shape of the ships by shaving them off.

How are you to "play" this game? Like the game battleship (I shoot A6... Hit/Miss!?)

Why do I keep hearing a new "Real Men of Genius" commercial in my head?

"Here's to you Mr. Large BattleShip Drinking Game Inventor!"
:haha:
:salute:

its just like the regular battleship game by milton bradley except when you get hit you take a shot and its huge

Beer pong with battleship instead.

^ This would be cool also.

Sounds like a cool concept GR. How will you "Guess" When the board is so big and people are getting drunk? Will there be a divide in between the board spaces?

Will it work with GWX and will it have starforce?

That's a cool idea! :up:

Me and some friends once made a drinking game, a mix between The Game Of Life and Monopoly, with a spinning wheel made out of a beer can, with trivia cards about various drinking questions and chance cards with (mostly) funny boozing stories we experienced.

I don't know how your rules will, but maybe you also want to include some naval-based trivia? This way you can not only win by luck or strategy, but also by knowledge.

The most important tip I can give: use transparent adhesive film to protect the board! :03:

Thought of that...

there will be a ref or refs that will regulate hits and misses on the dividing board and enforce the rules.

also... like in electronic battleship there will be options for different attacks

cruise missile strikes, air strikes, torpedo attacks etc.

the game is tailored to become more and more simple to follow as the drinking continues until you reach basic battleship.

last man standing wins.:rotfl2:

What is the phonograph selection?

Probably everything between Nine inch Nails and Journey lol

Ours will be much more epic.:salute:

This thread needs a profesional boatbuilder :DL

what I would do is create a styrofoam model, about 3 mm smaller in any dimension. Styrofoam is lightweight and easy to sand into shape (use very fine paper, 220 would be the coarsest, anything more would take chunks out of the styrofoam. T
hen take your fiberglass sheets and epoxy resin and just carefully and with love completely cover every centimeter of the model. Evenly is the name of the game, you dont want balls of dried up fiberglass plastic stuck all around the model. Sanding that away is the worst experience in your life
When the resin has dried you have two options:

a) leave the stryofoam core as it is
b) drill a small hole and pour in acetone, it will dissolve the styrofoam leaving you with a hollow toy. (3 layers of fiberglass would be a minimun here)

Then get yourself some modeling putty, any car repair store should have it. Evenly cover every centimeter of the model with it, about 2mm thick.
After that, just sand baby sand, 100 coarse should do it. Sand until you have nice flat surfaces and radius making your model ooooohh so sexy.
Then get yourself some sprayputty and spray it on the surface. Many thin layers as opposed to one thick, remember children, you don't want drops forming.
After that, let's do some more sanding :Kaleun_Party: 220 coarse, 500 coarse, 1200 with water, 2500 with water. After that you have a surface smooother than the mirror in your bathroom.
Color should be applied after the 220 sanding. And also, many thin layers, and I do mean many, if you oversand it you'll get the sprayputty showing in very ugly patches trough the color.

Pro's: lightweight, durable, waterproof, lasts about 4000 years, looks gooood

Con's: not for impatient people, delicate work, necesary precision may kill you, chemicals, one core model for only one ship, sanding is a (favourite foul word)

The above desrcibed method is going to be used to create a model for a sailboat (model) hull. The only difference being that I will use it as a mould for the mould.

FYI: 220, 1200, 2500 are numbers which describe the coarsnes of the sandaper, aka grit size
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper#Grit_sizes

No this is Version 1 so you only get cruddy 2D interface and no GWX or phonograph, but you do get a nice lunar calendar that shows you moon phases.:O: