German Whizz Weel in Flash and exe available
 

Dear Kaleuns


Thanks to Hitman's templates from the German Whizz wheel (found here) , I have created a flash version which you can view here. Please be patient if you don't see the wheel straight away, it's 1,13 megabyte, so give it time to load.

The wheels can be turned by clicking and holding the the mouse on the very transparent buttons found on the wheels (those that change your mousepointer from a pointer to a dragging hand) and dragging them around.

The front/back button is obvious.

Now if someone can make a decent tutorial, on how to use this thing, it would be grand.

for those who want the offline version in exe format it can be found
here (1.88 meg). Don't worry its virus free.

:up:

Edited and Corrected thanks to Woof1701: Gute Fahrt und Fette Beute

Great work. Dertien! Only we need a Whizz Wheel tutorial for dummys (like me):doh:

Can this be run in SHIII, is there a hot key to bring it up?
Thanks.:yep:

Hello Reece,

I am very sorry old buddy, but I cannot make flash run inside the SH3 game engine AFAIK.

If you find someone who does , please let me know.

You will need to Alt-Tab out of sh3, do your computations, and alt-tab in it again.

sry.

XIII

Thanks !! :up:

Dertien

Thanks for a great mod, one question though. I downloaded the .exe version and the only parts i can move are the the two 'rotors' one with the red pointer and the one with the yellow boat, is this right. i'm not 100% sure but shouldn't the individual circles move aswell ? the same on the back to.

regards slipper

Thanks for this great mod. Could you please make a Swastika-free Version. As you know in Austria and German this Symbol is forbidden and it is not even allowed to link to such a symbol.

Thank in advance.

Good job, but the central wheel of the front side moves together with the pointer with a (yellow in your wheel) ship silhouette. :D Serves for indicating the true course of the ship's silhouette in the middle wheel.

I found that if you place the pointer (curser) on or about the 90-degree mark on the inner circles, you'll see a little hand and they all will rotate.

I assume that you set the yellow boat (target) on its true course on the outer circle. And that you set the red pointer (your course) on the outer circle as well. And thus by rotating and alligning the inner circles properly, one would get a fix on the AOB of the course intercept point as well as an AOB on the target allowing for its bearing to your boat.

A tutorial on how all these markers and circles function would be real nice. Are there any other assumptions or opinions on how it works?

Von Zelda, Thanks mate.Just had another look and got it working now,If you look closely you can see two little yellow disks on the face of the circles, and clicking on these does indeed allow you to move them

cheers

slipper

P.s It would be great if someone could post atutorial on this. And make it available in game

@ slipper and anyone else figuring out how to turn the dials

points where to drag with your mouse to turn the dials

here you go:

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/8...esfrontns3.gif

http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/1...nesbackho0.gif

In the exe file (its called a flash projector file) you can set the view to 100% in the "view" menu, do this when the wheel graphics aren't clear.
If you right click on the wheel, you can zoom in on it and pan as well. Very useful for people who need glasses (like me). To pan, just hold down the left mouse button when you zoomed in and drag the mouse around). To go back to full screen view, right click and choose either

-100%
-zoom out
-show all

The yellow boat, is not yellow on the original templates from hitman. I just gave it a yellow colour in order to make it clearly visible, as this can become quite cluttered when all dials are on top of each other.

there is no drag point on the yellow boat marker, there is one just above that marker, as shown on the screenshots.
I don't really see what you mean hitman, all the dials in my .exe file, which has a fairly good chance to being the same one that you have, rotate seperately.
just use the above layout to drag around your dials.

@Friedl9te

here you go:

http://files.filefront.com/Whizz+no+.../fileinfo.html

@von Zelda

You surely know how to RTFM :up:


@Coronas

Well, I know that Wazzoo is an ace at such things, I need this tutorial too, cause I'm a noob using this wheel as well.

@Hitman

Oh, yes one last thought, Hitman, should the outer dials be able to turn as well ? It's not really necessary, but maybe a preference for some players, let me know what you think.

hangloose everyone and hope this helps !

This looks so sexy! Great work man...and thanx
:up:

Now i just need to lear to use it well!

OK Let me explain. The transparent arm with the yellow boat symbol should be fixed to the wheel marked Lage so that the yellow boat always sticks out from the 0 position of the Lage wheel. If this is difficult to implement, you can always just remove the transparent arm with the yellow boat. It is no great loss.

One other minor-ish feature is that the front of the Submarine is represented on the largest wheel by a small triangle, just next to the 180 mark. you can see it at the bottom of the image.

To make the wheel more intuitive you might reverse the outermost wheel so that the front of the submarine is at the top.

The primary function of this wheel is to solve the problem of target course (although it has other functions too)

This is how to do it:

First, set your current true course on the yellow wheel so that your course is indicated by the small triangle.

Second you rotate the long thin arm, which represents your line of sight, so that one arm strikes the current relative bearing to the target on the outermost ring (i.e. the periscope view).

On the opposite side of the arm, you can read off the true bearing from North to the target on the larger of the two scales on the yellow ring. This can be immediately used for plotting.

NExt turn the wheel on the Lage ring to so that the AOB thta you have determined strikes the long thin arm. The pointer on the Lage ring, at the 0 mark, indicates the target true course.

Alternatively if you already know the target true course, you can use it to determine AOB for any given perisocpe bearing.

The last ring is the funny shaped vorhalt ring. This hasn't much use. I believe it's for manually marking your torpedo firing point when you don't have a TDC working.

I'll write about the slide rule later, but really a slide rule has a thousand functions

What joe said :up:

Thanks hitman. :)

The slide rule has as many functions as there are mathematical problems related to trigonometry, but I will stick to one examlpe here. Once you have fully internalised this procedure, other uses will just spontaneously leap out at you.

This procedure is to solve the Speed Problem.

The outer ring we will call Peilung
The middle ring we will call Strecke. The outer and inner circles of this wheel give distances in meters. The middle circle gives speed in knots.
and the inner ring we will call Zeit

To obtain a speed solution once you have obtained an AOB estimate (really it need not be a perfect estimate), set yourself up on an intercept course and start the stopwatch. Do not then change course or speed until the procedure is over.
Note the target AOB and the current periscope angle to target.

Find the point on the peilung ring which corresponds to the observed AOB of the target. Turn the strecke ring until your current (and constant ) speed is directly under the target AOB on the sliderule. Now look at the point on the Peilung that corresponds to the observed periscope angle (bearing) to target. Under this, on the strecke ring you will observe a different speed. This is the target speed assuming you bearing to target remains constant. i.e. you are on a collision course.

E.g. 1. Let's say you have an intercept course. The target is directly on your beam (i.e. bearing 270 = 090 on the peilung) observed AOB is starb'd 35, your speed is 4 knts

Match 4 knts to 35 on the peilung wheel,then look under 90 degrees and find a target speed of 7knts. If the bearing to the target is constant after 3-5 mins, then you are on a collision course and your target's speed is in fact 7knts.

However, let's say you pop your periscope up in 5 minutes exactly and in fact the target is now at 280 (80 on the peilung wheel).

Now you need to take a range measurement. (Let's say 1500m)

You set the measured range to target against the ORIGINAL AOB., So that's 1500m to 35 on the peilung rad.

Now you set the time interval (5 mins) on the Zeit wheel against the difference in bearing to target on the peilung rad. The difference in bearing to target is in this case 280-270=10 degrees.

The pointer on the Zeit wheel is now pointing to a speed of 3 knts. This is the speed correction. Becasue the target moved forward relative to you, you add this speed correction to the orginal speed estimate. That is 7knts +3 Knts = 10knts

Had you moved forward relative to the target, then you would have to subtract this speed correction.

That's it.

Thanks to Hitman and joegrundman, I have adapted the wheel as it was historically.

This is starting to look like a real application.... Anyways.

ok screenshots:

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/1685/sc1nj9.jpg

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4746/sc2ax6.jpg

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/8395/sc3rr9.jpg

changes from previous version:

- locked the yellow boat marker and the AOB marker together. These can be dragged around at two spots (click the help button for info on this)
- Turned the outer dial, so that the top of the sub (the white arrow on the outer ring) faces north. Hitman told me, this would be easier to work with.
- Added help file telling noobs where to drag the wheel (hotspots) , and how to sharpen the wheel's graphics, should this be necessary.
- Added exit button
- Added background and a startup screen (eyecandy)


@ Hitman or Joegrundman:

could you possibly make a step by step screenshot gallery on how to use the front and the back side, with an example, so I can make a tutorial for the wheel and put it in the projector file itself.

Just as you did Joegrundman, but with screenshots, I can then implement them into the program as a help function.

Thank you.

Tryout flash version: Dial-up heavy: 1405 kb here

Download Links: for Historical version and the No-swatstika version

enjoy.

Many thanks again Dertien, if only someone could set up a global hotkey, like ALT-TAB, actually I wonder if SHIII can run in a window, I thought I read somewhere that it can??:D

Is there a way to open the flash window with the Wheel over the screen of the game (like transparent torpedo screen) with a hot key? Two programs run one over another? :hmm:

It has a windowed mode... make the change in options. Works well with dual monitors too.

An attempt at a Tutorial
 

As it applies to SH3, this is an attempt to write a tutorial for the Whizz Wheel to determine and set AOB with a known target course. The basis for this is that there is a constant angle or AOB at the intercept point of your course and that of the target's course. You can easily determine this mathematically: the difference between the target's know course and the reciprocal of your course = intercept angle. As an example: your course is 39-degrees (reciprocal = 219) and target's course is 315-degrees. Therefore, 315 - 219 = 96-degrees at intercept point. But, the following is how I think you can determine this by the Whizz Wheel without doing the math:

1) Determine the true course of your boat and that of the target.
2) Set the red triangle on the Angr/Krus rotor tool to the zero bearing on the outer non-movable ring (this is becaue your bow is zero bearing and your aft is 180-degree bearing).
3) On the movable middle ring, align the outer degree scale to the red triangle (zero bearing on the outer ring) for your true course. (This is your true course or direction in degrees that your bow is heading.)
4) Using the rotor with the black triangle and yellow boat, locate the target's true course on the outer degree scale of the movable middle ring then rotate and place the black triangle to the target's true course on this ring.
5) Rotate and align the zero bearing of the movable inner AOB ring with the target's true course (black triangle on the yellow boat).
6) Depending on which side the target is passing across your bow (port = red and starboard = green) locate the degrees for AOB on the inner ring that lines up with your course on the Angr/Krus rotor. This represents the AOB degrees at the intercept point of your course and that of your target. It's worth noting the two little boats on the Angr/Kurs rotor. One has a black bow and the other a black stern. If you are traveling toward the target's course you would look for the boat with the black bow at lower end of rotor which is actually pointing to the reciprocal of your course because as mentioned in the first paragraph, the angle is the difference between the target's course and your reciprocal course. Now, if you are traveling away from the target's course (firing stern tubes) you will look for the boat with the black bow on the upper part of the rotor. The solution in degrees now results from the difference between target's course and your true heading.
7) (to set AOB in the game) If you are firing from the bow, set the UZO/periscope to zero bearing and input degrees determined in step six into the note pad for angle on the bow. If you are firing from the stern, set the UZO/periscope to 180-degrees and input degrees determined in step six into the note pad for angle on the bow. Pay close attention to inputting red for port and green for starboard. You now can rotate the UZO/periscope to the target and you will automatically have the correct AOB as it travels along its course.

8) (optional method to set AOB) After step six, locate target in the UZO or periscope and "mark" the bearing (tap lock on, then tap lock off and then don't touch this bearing until after step ten). Observe and note the target's bearing in the UZO or periscope.
9) Using the odd looking Vorhalt rotor, set its pointer to the target bearing you noted in step eight. Read the degrees where it crosses the line on Angr/Krus rotor. Whether or not green or red, this is the number of degrees (+ or -) to adjust from the degrees at course intercept point. Most likely your target has not passed the intercept point, in which case you subtract this amount from the degrees at intercept AOB. In the remote chance that the target has passed the intercept point, you would add the degrees to the degrees at intercept point. The result becomes the AOB at your "mark" (bearing) in step eight.
10) With the UZO or periscope still set to the bearing in step eight, enter this calculated AOB using the note pad. You now can rotate the UZO/periscope to the target and you will automatically have the correct AOB.


An example from a merchant that I sank last night. It is interesting because I set up an attack from the stern tubes.
1) My true course was 219-degrees which was the reciprocal of the heading towards intercept point of 39-degrees. The target was heading 315-degrees. (If you'll note from the first paragraph, this a 96-degree (red) angle at the point of intercept.)
2) Set the red triangle on Angr/Krus rotor to zero bearing of outer ring.
3) Turn and align 219-degrees on outer middle ring with the line on the Angr/Krus rotor and red triangle.
4) Turn and place black triangle in yellow boat rotor on 315-degrees on outer scale of middle ring.
5) Turn and align zero bearing of the inner AOB ring with the 315-degree mark on the outer scale of middle ring (black triangle in yellow boat).
6) Read the resulting degrees on red AOB scale which aligns with line on Angr/Krus rotor. Note that this reads 96-degrees. This is the angle to intercept point for torpedo run of both courses.
7) With UZO/periscope set to 180-degree bearing (remember I'm firing from the stern) input the 96-degrees red (port) into the note pad. Remember to click all the check marks to input to the TDC!

8) Option for Step Seven: Using the UZO, I marked the current bearing of target at approximately 209-degrees.
9) Using the Vorhalt rotor, I set its pointer to approximately 209-degrees on the outer ring. This resulted in an approximate 31-degree red on the Vorhalt rotor. Now, subtract 31-degrees from 96-degrees in step six since the target had not passed the course intercept point. You have a 65-degree AOB at your UZO "mark."
10) At the UZO screen without changing the UZO bearing from step eight, input 65-degrees red (port) into the note pad. Click all checkmarks. This should result in the correct AOB as you rotate the UZO onto the target.

Well, try this out and see what you think. Hope this might be helpful.