Well, I'm very glad that everyone has been happy with the work I did way back in March, and I'm also glad to see others run with it by making the back side and creating the Flash version.

Sadly, after I published the front of the Is-Was, I did a cross-country job relocation & bought a new house - both of which prevented me from participating further in this discussion (Or playing SH4 for that matter; I haven't played more than 10 minutes of it since it came out!). Hopefully I'll get into it later this year and enjoy the hard work that we've all done on the Is-Was.

Krunch

Welcome back Capn' :up:

I just finished making a model of the Is-was using your excellant pdf file downloaded from the HNSA website. In my experimenting for materials to use I found some 7-mil transparancy film from B&K Photo (which just arrived today). Once I figured out that ink will only dry on the coated side I made up the C & D elements by printing them and then laminating them before cutting them out. They are quite stiff and flat and, of course, the ink is protected from wear and smearing.

The device works beautifully! I just happened to notice your earlier remarks about the orientation of the "A" ring and would point out that this ring corresponds to the relative bearing ring on the actual periscope housing. The "B" ring corresponds to the gyro repeater -- so it's scale represents true coordinates.

Thanks for all our effort in making up the drawings, and thanks for making them available. BZ!

John Fakan

WELCOME ABOARD!:sunny:

Good Job, Cod.

And I echo, Steve's welcome.

...where would we be CPT K w/o your genius?

at sea, adrift, w/o a rudder. Tnx agn.

I'm trying to build this one (I finished the KM version and love it), but I'm a bit confused. On the front side, I see the C ring and the periscope ring. I have two questions:

1. Should both be transparent?
2. What order are they stacked? It looks like from the pictures that the periscope ring is on top, but I also see that it's the same size as the C ring. If that's so, how do you turn the C ring underneath?

I had to add a small handle for that purpose when cutting the disk. I placed it at the 180º mark, but it can be anywhere. Probably in the real item the disk is so fixed to the central axis that you do not have the problem, but in the custom buit tool you certainly hve difficulties turning that disk as the scope disk (On top of it) hides it completely. Good catch klh :up: in my first attempt to build the tool I noticed that too late :damn:

BTW the C disk can be made solid or transparent, as it doesn't interfere with others. In the original tool it is apparently transparent, but again it's not necessary.

Hope that helps

Welcome to SUBSIM :up: usscod


RDP

That helps immensely. I'll work on it over the weekend. Gracias Hitman!

When I look at a picture of a real one, it appears to me that the C disk is on top of the Periscope disk, which in turn is on top of the B & A disks. The C & Periscope disks are transparent. This is how my home-made one is. The only problem with this is that the C disk curls up, but it's easy to live with.

Here it is
 

Thanks Krunch and Hitman! Now if I can only find a mechanical stopwatch, I would be in Subsim Paradise.

Front:
http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/6163/img3260oa5.jpg

Back:
http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/9827/img3261jo1.jpg

Wow! That looks great! A lot better than my cruddy version. How did you go about doing it? Did you use a laminating machine? I'm thinking that's the only way to go, to keep the various layers flat. I went the cheap route and used some SelfSeal repositionable laminating sheets, but they just don't cut it - too floppy.

I used a thermal laminator over cardstock. The clear parts I used transparency with two layers of lamination. They are fairly rigid, but keep in mind the picture doesn't show all the imperfections.

Greak Work KLH! You should make some of those and put them on Ebay!

Thanks, but really the credit goes to Hitman and Captain Krunch. All I did was follow instructions.