Di-hydrogen oxide is the main cause of most ground faults. If the outlet is at the end of the counter it will probably be a normal outlet. GFCI outlets are easily identified by their square shaped housing and cover and the two buttons in the center. One black, one red. It operates like a secondary circuit breaker on that wire run from the mains.
If you wish to run the cord over to the wall and it's not long enough, you could build your own cable of the right length with components and hide it with some more of that wire channel. A screw driver, multi-meter, wire cutters and wire strippers are all you'll need for tools. If you really want to get fancy with it, you could just rewire the socket strip with your custom cord. Lowes carries every flavor of bulk wire by the foot. Ampere rating is the only concern to watch for and making sure to put the right color wire where it's supposed to be.

I should shut up now before I get you electrocuted. Well, zapped at the least.:03: That's the nice thing about alternating current. It pinches you and lets go sixty times a second..:huh:

Yeah, I always notice the test and reset buttons. Pretty sure the outlets I'd want to use don't have them. I'm sure the one in the dinette doesn't, it doesn't have any reason to have them.

Really what I'd like is an under-the-counter power strip on the end of the peninsula - right along the top of the cabinet just under the lip of the counter. Wouldn't have to worry so much about moisture from food prep and it would still be handy. But there's not much depth there to work with and as I said everything that I can buy myself that would be suitable is at least a foot too long. I guess if I find out what the hard-wired ones are made of, I can decide whether or not I want to get one that's 3 feet long and cut it down - depending on how the outlets are spaced I might only lose two or three out of six and really three is probably more than I need.

If I could wire it into a power cable with a nice plug on the end and run it under the counter overhang, channelling it through one of those raceways down the back of the counter to the floor and to the outlet in the dinette would certainly be doable. :hmmm:

Edit: oh, and I've been electrocuted. I don't seem to remember it letting go at all until I let go of it. :O:

Forgive my ignorance but what is a 'peninsula' ?

Like Florida or Italy or Viet Nam Basically a long counter that sticks out 90 degrees from the main cabinets.:know:
This will be on the test.:)

That's known as getting shocked. You let go really fast didn't you?:O:
If the voltage that zapped you didn't have a zero volt reference to it, you wouldn't have been able to let go and you would die. ( electrocution)
See link for Alternating Current 101.:know:

__________________
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_1/2.html

But is still attached to them at one end. Unlike a kitchen island, which sits in the middle of the room unattached to anything. Except, unless you have a really careless contractor, the kitchen floor. :O:

Not nearly as fast as I wanted to! :haha:

What I remember is my body falling backwards and gravity pulling me to the floor which caused my hand to be pulled off the thing I was holding, which was the metal door handle of an old refrigerator and therefore attached to something much too heavy for me to pull over on top of myself. :hmmm:

We kept this old fridge down in our basement for extra food and drink storage and I'd go down there just about everyday to get something out of it. I said for days that I kept feeling something wrong when I touched it which felt like a slight shock but my mother didn't believe me. One day I went down and grabbed the handle to open it and got well and truly zapped - it knocked me right off my feet.

IIRC they later found that an old metal window fan had fallen down behind the thing and gotten up against the wiring and we also, it turned out, had some issues with water getting into that basement in some areas. But I don't know for sure what it was that caused it to become a hazard. They told me that they took care of it and nobody else ever got shocked for all the years they kept that fridge, but I still wouldn't touch the door with anything but a wooden broom handle til the day I moved out. :O:

Anyway - went to Home Depot after work and they have a couple things I might consider for peninsula power, including the white model of the three foot power strip which looks like it might do nicely IF I can cut it down to size. It's metal but I've cut everything else so why not that? But I'll have to see what the end caps look like, they'd have to be something that would cover my handiwork well enough AND I'd have to be able to run the wiring out the back of the thing. Which I'm pretty sure is possible, since there's hardware in there for the option of mounting it over an existing standard outlet which would require the wiring to go out the back.

They also have a clamp-on power grommet that is about half the price and looks like it would fit over the edge of the counter, so I'm considering that as well.

That sounds like a diet fridge.:haha: Meant to deter cheating.:03: Still a bit dangerous though. It's fortunate that the basement floor wasn't wet when you grabbed the handle or we might not be having this conversation.:hmmm:
At any rate, it sounds like you know what you need and you have enough common sense to accomplish the task without giving yourself a new hairdo.:)

Ah yes, an island attached to a wall......or a kitchen bench :)

Well, you folks invented the language so I guess a little quid pro quo is due when describing things.:)
But, just like a geographical peninsula is attached to a continent, a kitchen peninsula is attached to a wall or cabinet.

Soooo....like a bar? :hmmm:

Could be, if you have enough countertop overhang on one side to scoot barstools up underneath it. Mine does, but I'm not planning to use it for that since I can't see the point of having a place to eat at the counter and a dining table and chairs right next to it. Although a couple simple stools with no backs to them and a small footprint that wouldn't clutter up the space - that's a possibility. It would be more for someone to sit at the counter and chat while another person is on the other side doing something in the kitchen, not for sitting there to eat and drink at mealtime. I'll have to see how the space works out once I get the table and chairs and other dinette stuff where I want it all.

We have an overhang on our kitchen island. We have stools there but we never use it as eating space. Just another place to sit.

It's sometimes a handy thing to have. The stools also double as steps to reach things on upper shelves. :)

Have pretty much decided on this Samsung refrigerator now...

http://www.lowes.com/pd_360811-149-R...4196473&rpp=16

available in white and Lowe's has it at $2099, it may be a discontinued/superceded model which would explain the lower price. I looked at it in the store and ruled it out for some reason, probably concerned about it being too deep but having looked at the dimensions again and measured the space it's definitely doable. Provided I can use my discount card I can get it for close to what the stainless steel sale prices are on the LG models I was originally looking at.

Given that it's only 33" wide ripping the baseboard off and measuring to ensure the width of the alcove becomes less of a pressing issue altho I do plan to go ahead and do that before making the purchase. The nice thing is that if I get this one there would be room enough to put baseboard just around the corners into the alcove when/if I redo them kitchen-wide, which would give a cleaner look than cutting them off flush at the corners.

And it's a good bet that since it's not stainless, my magnets will stick to it. :woot:

Will still have to wait almost a month for delivery but I'd have to do that with any white fridge anyway, so that's no biggie.

My only concern is the door having enough clearance to open on the right hand side without hitting the wall there, which extends out further than the cabinet on the left. I will look at the configuration of the thing in the store but if all else fails the fridge can be scooted to the left to get the necessary clearance... another benefit of going with the 33" model. Altho I think it's deep enough that the hinges and door will be out far enough beyond the end of the wall that it won't matter. The end of the wall is 29" out from the back of the alcove, and the fridge is already deeper than that without the doors on - plus you have to add on at least another inch because it won't be jammed right up against that back wall.

So, I dunno. Funny for some reason I had a feeling I would end up with a Samsung, well I've had good luck with all their other products I own so why not.

You should get that one refrigerator that keeps recipes in it's internal computer and can go online and stuff.

:)

Or the one with GPS and a replicator.:03::D