Shaved it down to a 1:35.572 at Vallelunga. P4/5, Default setup. :oops:

NP - I like a challenge. :-?

:03:

blah 1:42.280. But in my defence I'm using a PS3 controller since I dont have a wheel.

360 controller here. I don't have space for a wheel set-up. :cry:

Two more years then the boy will be at uni and my master plan for taking over a room in the house for gaming, ahem - I mean studying, will come into effect.

Edit - 1:37.264 :cry::cry::cry: There's more there, but I don't know if I'll get it.

I solved the steering issue. I reduced , in FFB options, speed sensitivity, from 0.1 to 0.05. And suddenly the P4/5 turns in corners as I would expect a car of that size to turn.

0.00 in that setting turns all cars into unplayable, zigzagging rubber balls. I have no idea what that thing is meant to simulate or to do to the controller. But obviously it is a very critical setting.

Speed sensitivity basically makes the car easier to control at high speeds.

Strange that you couldn't navigate tight hairpins with that speed sensitivity. :hmmm:

The wheel ingame should turn more at low speeds. :hmm2:


At high speeds full lock with your hardware wheel won't give full lock ingame with speed sensitivity. With speed sensitivity off, full lock with wheel results in full lock ingame.


240° with no speed sensitivity, it's not surprising that the car zig zags. :03:

With a production car ingame, 120° to either side results in 450°.


Try this on the drift circuit with speed sensitivity: Drive in a circle holding the hardware wheel at the same position, go quickly and then decelerate. The wheel ingame should slowly turn more as the speed drops.


EDIT:

Tried with 240° and speed sensitivity at 0.1.. I understand what you mean about the P4/5 not able to navigate the last hairpin at Vallelunga. I even dropped to 30-40kmh, and it still couldn't handle the turn. And the wheel goes from full lock to not all that much rotation of the wheel very quickly from standstill. :S

That last hairpin can be taken in 55-60 kmh in 2nd gear with the P4/5.

EDIT2:
Just for fun I tried driving with a range of 40° with no speed sensitivity. It, was, interesting. :haha:

Letting go off the wheel, and lightly nudging it so the force feedback responds. It bounced back and forth. Lightning quick movements. :haha:

As I said, everything works well now. 0.00 is madness, 0.1 does not turn, but 0.05 nicely fits in.

The limited movement range of the hardware wheel usually is no problem (even more so when you are used to it since years), most of the time the virtual wheel's and the hardware wheel's movements are very closely matched. It's only when the most extreme turns are needed and wheels get maxed in movement that the difference becomes very obvious.

I love my Ferrari 430 wheel...! :wah: Don't you ever dare to say somethign bad about it...! It'S extremely loud bang for the buck, and very good manufacturing quality with a heavy feel in buttons, and good FFB. And costs less than half only of a G27. Pedals (two oif them) also are robust and fair deal for the price.

http://www7.pic-upload.de/28.11.13/vutnrm1psn5f.jpg

And that mini-switch on the right, Macettino or however it is called, is just so cool... :D

Nice looking wheel. :)

Better than the G25 in a way since it has several buttons, while the 25 has only 2 buttons + paddles on the wheel. :doh:

I used to have a Logitech Driving Force before, it was a great wheel. 200 or so degrees of rotation, but plenty of buttons. Worked great on the PS2 as well. :salute:

In the past, for other racing sims, I used to plug in the CH ProThrottle of my HOTAS combo as well, as a fast and convenient way of getting blind access to more keyboard commands while driving than my wheel back then could hold. But this wheel above now holds 15 free buttons, the two paddles and the cursor keys hidden in the engine button not counted. That is sufficient for my needs, and the buttons all have a nice heavy and solid feel. And the FFB is robust, really. For the price I can recommend this wheel without restriction.

Got my times down to 1:38.181
Starting to get the hang of the track

http://simhqmotorsports.com/forum/ub...fo#Post3701820

This guy found some interesting read by Kunos on their tire models.

In their forums, somebody claimed you can use the telemetry analysis software by AIM, Race Studio 2, for full and detailed analysis of AC data. I know that it already worked in GTR2. But I cannot remember or newly figure out how to get lap telemetry data from AC into RS2. Ideas?

If you do not know RS, it is a professional software used by race engineers in real life. Gives you access and graphical analysis of all data that car car telemetry produces. Indispensable for the ambitioned pro AC racer, to squeeze the last tenth of a second out of his car setups! It's free to use. Also check the pdf files with manuals and explanations and examples.

http://www.me-mo-tec.de/de/Service/S...e/RaceStudio-2

Somebody explained it. In RS2 you chose "import netKar files", navigate to mydocuments/assetto corsa/aim/, and chose the file you want, then save it in RS2 again.

The folder I do have for sure. Now I need to find out why despite 40 hours logged it still is empty.

With his usual excellence in video cutting and film-music synchronization, Stabiz has done some excellently edited videos already.

KTM X

Zonda

BMW Z4 E89

BMW M3 E30

Always a joy to see his videos.

1:36.372 - that's on Time Attack tonight after 20 laps of consistant 1:37s yesterday. I'm pleased with that but it's beginning to be a pain in the rear with such a single focus! :stare:

Just for kicks I took the Zonda on a few laps and got 1:32.820 almost straight away, certainly takes that hairpin better than the 4/5.