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My '95 Silverado 5.0L has a tough plug boot on the #6 cylinder. It's right behind the dipstick tube and it's difficult to pull loose after 40k miles, much less the recommended 60k interval or was it 100k? I'll have to check the service chart in the manual.:hmmm: |
ok, I got the truck back and they said they felt it but they didn't do anything at all to the truck because everything was normal and is working fine, this is what the service ticket said:
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Webster.
It looks like they just gave you the old single finger weather gesture and kicked sand in your face while stepping on your picnic sandwiches.:down:
I have a short bed and never experienced any wheel hop. The only short bed truck I ever had a problem with was a Ford. At certain highway speeds, the front wheels would start wobbling and you had to stop to cure it. What's next? A call to GM? A visit to a Toyota dealer? Get yourself one of these puppies? http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b..._2007/th-1.jpg A real man's pickup truck.:rock: If your dealer slapped one of their stickers on your ride, I'd peel it off poste haste and replace it with some negative advertising pinstriped across the entire tailgate.:stare: |
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next i'll try my local dealership and give them a chance to fix it. I hope they give it a try and not refuse to take it until after the DMA which means a GM rep rides with you to say he witnessed nothing wrong and its all in your mind. if I can get it into a 4th repair, weather they do anything or not to it im pretty sure it will qualify for lemon law but since it is greatly improved from how bad it originally was I can see where they will try to to say im just being too picky. right now it always rides like its on a rough road surface even on smooth blacktop and the vibrations are not dramatic in any way to spill your coffee but they are still there and the wheel hop like sensation @ 40 mph is something new that only showed up after they started messing with it. I will go out in a fresh state of mind and do some testing today and try to record things I notice because I am pretty sure I will soon need to start explaining things in detail to higher ups somewhere in the chain of command |
:-?I only wish I could take it for a test drive, Webster. Then go to the dealer with you so I could look those morons in the eye and sternly say "BS!"
To their explanations. If you told them you had an identical truck at home that doesn't have this problem... They'd say; "Bring it in and we'll fix it":o PS: Considering the exorbitant prices on their current line of trucks made with Chinese parts, I'd say that you have every right to be picky. The Celestials just don't care about quality and might just be ordered by their government to provide sub-standard and unsafe products in all of their industries. We've seen it with the toys they make and other things more often than what should be reasonable. |
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I just keep reading how people get vibration issues just like mine after they raise or lower their trucks because they get the drive train angles out of whack. makes me wonder if this is the true problem caused by bad geometry they cant fix without a complete redesign and realignment of all the drive train component mounts. my retest today confirms a wheel (hop, wobble, bounce) take your pick, at 35-45 mph most noticed at 38 mph and a vibration starting sometimes at 60 mph but mostly starts at 65 mph through 75 mph most noticed at 68 mph. best way to describe the overall ride of this thing is it rides like you are on a rough road surface while you are on smooth blacktop but when you are on a rough road surface it still rides exactly the same. gave my niece a ride home today on a 45 mph smooth blacktop road and she said she was getting sea sick with all the bouncing and wanted to know what was wrong with the road lol. |
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As the old military joke goes "remember all of your gear is made by the lowest bidding contractor". That applies to anything mass produced really. Over the years as Americans(and the rest of 1st world nations) have become more and more throw away societies there is less and less incentive to produce a product that will last. Add on to that the fact that most companies are chasing every dollar that that can which usually means less concern about quality and more about quantity. Look at the pay that most factories give to workers it certainly does not promote quality. |
As unpatriotic as it may seem to some, one of the reasons I like my Honda is that their hybrids are made in Osaka for quality control reasons.
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what I meant by my statement was that in those countries workers are treated like crap and hardly paid anything and work in unsafe horrible conditions with inferior equipt to do the job most of the time so it conditions like that it is hard to put out a quality product no matter the skill level or personal pride of the workers doing the work. Quote:
if I can get out of this chevy vibrator I bought im going buy a Toyota 5 minutes later, may wait till end of year and trade it in taking the loss if I cant get a GM buy back but im not keeping a vibrating truck for the next 15-20 years because thats how long I keep my trucks |
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My elder brother owned a Toyota pickup. After a few years, he couldn't wait to trade it in on a Chevy. YMMV
You may be at the end of your rope to the point of just biting the bullet and replacing the wheels and tires with some better quality goods from the aftermarket sector. Again, YMMV.:hmmm: Have a look at... http://www.carid.com/ You can always sell the old ones and their selection of rims is bound to make your ride look better than that factory crud.:yeah: |
went take a ride with the boat hooked up today and it has the same vibrations acting the same way so wouldn't that rule out their bogus agreement that its the way shortbeds ride im feeling since the rear suspension is under tension so it cant be bouncing from the smooth road its on.
if new tires and rims will definitely 100% solve the issue then I wouldn't mind eating baloney for 6 months and buying them just to fix it myself but I really cant afford to do that without knowing, but I may have no other choice. what bothers me is it could still be a rear end or drive shaft problem they haven't even looked into checking anything else but balancing tires. I was hoping the dealer would have a set of "pulls" tires and rims that I could buy under condition they put them on first for a test drive and the vibrations are no longer there, but the dealer says they never get pulls any more because people take them home and sell them. I didn't see anything on ebay or craigs list at a decent price, most want $1,200-$1,500 for 4 tires and rims and im more thinking $500-$800 is about the most I could do and im not looking for aluminum rims but stock old styled steel wheels with the trim rings that don't get corroded when the neighbors dog pees on it and they always need polishing. I never wash my truck and at my age im way past "pretty" wheels so I want no maint basic looking wheels. |
What's the tongue weight on your boat trailer? Adding weight to the very back end will usually pull weight off the front suspension and you should feel a noticeable difference in the way it drives. Unless it's a really light boat.
I just reviewed the previous posts and all of the symptoms you described about your brother's Dodge, could all be attributed to those front disc brake caliper pistons being partially seized and not retracting the pads fully. Dodge was putting those plastic pistons in them for decades. I doubt that they've changed that practice. A pair of stainless steel pistons will likely solve those issues. YMMV |
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