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Im afraid the 1-144 is too new, and theres not going to be much aftermarket stuff available for some time.
I did manage to find something for Your boat though: http://www.modelimex.com/detail/edua...-boat-viid-rev The kit is for the VIID version, but most parts are interchangeable, apart from the mine shoots. I think You need to open`em up Yourself. I know the number of holes, and their shape are all wrong, and the only solution seems to be either make Your own set of PE / check the electrical outlets- they do have some PE starter kits / , or cut the bit of styrene to size, and start drilling in it. Once You happy with the design, just glue them on in place of revells bodge. Fellow i know from different forum makes ALL his parts by etching the brass sheets- check it out: http://pwm.org.pl/viewtopic.php?t=2639 :rock: Savvy never changed the holes on his kit, instead he just sanded them open, and i think it worked good. |
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I'll have to scratch my head over what to do with the stern holes, I can see going through a lot of styrene trying to get the holes 'just right' :ping: |
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Are You going for it Bill? Im curious what its like. If it is simple enough, i can see myself on the path of etching. It opens the whole new world to modeler.
The main air supply pipes extended abowe the deck. Theres real possibility the work will be visible through the holes in the CT decking if i opt for brass. http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/8...s004ym3.th.jpg http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/8...s002kf7.th.jpg http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5...s008lv2.th.jpg TBC... |
Sounds pretty simple:
How the Micro-Mark Pro-Etch Photo-Etch System Works You create artwork in a drawing program on the computer. You then print out the artwork with an inkjet printer onto the special film we include. Next you laminate the included photoresist material to the metal you want to etch. The film you printed on is then placed over the laminated metal and exposed to the noonday sun for 15 seconds or for 10 minutes under a 100 watt light bulb. The Ultraviolet rays from the sun or bulb harden the photoresist in the areas that are clear on the film. The black areas of the artwork block the ultraviolet rays and therefore the photoresist under the black areas is not hardened. The exposed laminated metal is then placed in a developer which removes only the unhardened photoresist. Next, the metal is placed in an etching tank with Ferric Chloride etchant. Those areas with the hardened photoresist protect the metal and will not be etched. The remainder of the metal is removed by the etchant. |
The vents on the sides of the CT. Theres too many holes, as the Revell kit can be modified for specific U-boat. Instead of drilling the kit, and filling some holes, i decided to make new set of holes in the sheet of styrene.
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/8...s005vh0.th.jpg I wasnt very happy with the result, as the styrene looks thick, even though it is only 0,3mm. http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/2...s002re7.th.jpg So i went with tried and tested- beer can tin. http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/2...s005qs4.th.jpg http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/669...s004cl2.th.jpg Looks much better, and has right thickness. TBC... |
Who said beer isn't good for you :up:
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The CT holes finished. It took me few attempts with the filla and Mr. Surfacer to get it just right.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9941/ct12001cr6.th.jpghttp://img237.imageshack.us/img237/6...2002li9.th.jpg Test fiting the top part. The work ive done on the air ducts was not in vain, as the pipes are well visible through the deck.:cool: http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9...2006ox1.th.jpghttp://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3470/ct12008dj9.th.jpghttp://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4342/ct12004lh1.th.jpg TBC... |
Two squere holes on the sides of CT were drilled out, stretched sprue was glued in.
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7805/ct13cv9.th.jpghttp://img187.imageshack.us/img187/1972/ct14xs6.th.jpghttp://img366.imageshack.us/img366/4...1001ho5.th.jpghttp://img366.imageshack.us/img366/3...1003pz2.th.jpg The hatch on the front bulge, covering the magnetic compass. PE from Eduard. Holes drilled, and squered up, walls thinned. http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/4...1004dh2.th.jpghttp://img380.imageshack.us/img380/7...1006pa3.th.jpghttp://img229.imageshack.us/img229/5...1009pu1.th.jpghttp://img170.imageshack.us/img170/9...1011ra1.th.jpghttp://img170.imageshack.us/img170/9...1012hn3.th.jpg TBC... |
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http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/4...ningjo3.th.jpg http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/9...2004mv1.th.jpghttp://img136.imageshack.us/img136/1...2005lr3.th.jpghttp://img386.imageshack.us/img386/6...2007of7.th.jpghttp://img395.imageshack.us/img395/4...2008iq7.th.jpghttp://img128.imageshack.us/img128/6...2009gl2.th.jpghttp://img128.imageshack.us/img128/747/ct123po4.th.jpg TBC... |
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Nice work! In all seriousness, I didn't know you could make your own photo-etched parts. All of those chemicals are pretty nasty, you'd need your own chemistry lab to work with them.:dead: |
Its definitely worth exploring, as possibilities are endless.
Back to model, the ammunition hatch was replaced by PE from Eduard. http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/4...3002uy6.th.jpghttp://img253.imageshack.us/img253/9...3001km9.th.jpghttp://img84.imageshack.us/img84/286...3003jr9.th.jpghttp://img291.imageshack.us/img291/5...3005px0.th.jpghttp://img291.imageshack.us/img291/9...3007zy4.th.jpg TBC... |
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