Ok make another try

I find it interesting to see how other are building a model, that I also have built.


Markus

Ah now I understand. You find it intersting to see how someone else builds the exact model that you have build before.


I got the plank decks taped off to spray but realized I shouold probly paint them with a brush. Now I dont know if I should brush or spray them.

In the past I always preferred to brush paint decking, not just for the looks but also because I was too lazy to fiddle about with tape.

Took me about a half hour the one deck done plus a little on the mid deck, I have autobody experiance so I'm a fast taper but fast != quality. I think im going to brush it with a sable brush. Although a stiffer brush would make for more "roughness" thats why I wanted to airbrush it, easier to make it completely matte.

http://i.imgur.com/DNZY7z2.jpg

I'll probably tape around areas I dont want to have to scrape paint off carefully with a razor, instead of taping around all the deck planks.

Yes.

Regarding the decks I did the same as you, used lots of Tamiya tape(forgot the word) and instead of spraying I toke a plastic cup(those you drink water/coffer a.s.o and then through it away)sprayed into this cup, until I had 2-4 ml then I used two of my brushes(nr 1 and nr 3)

The only place where I used the spray was on the hull and on some of the parts.

The rest I used either Tamiya paint or Humbrol.

Markus

Well I love airbrushing so I try to airbrush as much as possible to prevent brush marks but yeah will paint the decks this afternoon.


I've never used tamiya tape I just use 3M brand 1/8 1/4 and 1" painters tape from the hardware store.

I don't know if they have changed it.

When I bought the model some years ago the first thing I did and always do, see if everything is there.

There I noticed a little mistake.

Instead of USS it was US. BB 62 New Jersey

Have always seen this USS on military ships. There are some ship that doesn't have this USS.

Edit If you wonder what I'm talking about, it's this little display with the ships name on.

Markus

Its the 1984 casting but 2013 re-package.

I had an idea while I was finish off my game work for the night. They included an extra gun turret I assume they used the same mold for a battleship with 4 turrets or just for spare parts. I dremeled (terribly I might add) all the plastic away I could leaving just a few thou thickness and then added a 3/8" tube with a 1/8" rod inside of it for a rotater and then I welded it to the sides of the turret and then I welded a peice of 1/8" [ channel because it flexes alot lengthwise but not at all sideways and I can toughen it up if I need to by "boxing the frame" in with 0.002 or 0.005 sheet styrene.

Then I dremeled the hole for the 16" gun away leaving lots of room for playing around, hence the putty so I can file it accuratly with a round needle file. then I'll cut a small slot back into the turrent for a 1/32" rod or square or something that will "hold back" the gun basically as a pivot point and the rotater will push the bottom of the gun out thus elevating it, and its a tight fit so the flex in the [ channel willl prevent any breaking and take up slack from innacuracy. I added epoxy putty for extra strength cause the walls were getting real thin and I will reinforce the mounting point back with some tubing or some 0.030 sheet since I had to notch it to allow room for the 3/8" tubing.

If one works I'll iterate it through 1-5 hundred elevations to see if it cracks or breaks or anything and if its fine I'll do the real turrents with my lessons learnt from this spring mechanism idea.

I will probably have to build a little "housing" glued onto the back of the gun that slides in an out so it doesnt just poke out but that will be the easy part and will make it look more boxy and bad ass.

Updates once it dries and I see how well it works.

http://i.imgur.com/f5obk0E.jpg

Edit: Most of the putty will be cut away and replaced with welded stock styrene for strength, but the putty is much easier to get a tight perfect fit to the tubing and [ channel and the sides of the turret. Weird angles and shapes so I'lll file it all flat so I can use square tube, square rod and sheet

Well it works... but not the way it should. I should have made the top rotate on a tiny rotater and the bottom a huge slider. Instead of the other way around. This will break over time. I'll do it the right way for other ones. If I can think of a way to fit a rotated in the top. I might have to go buy some more tube and rod, I'm out of all the small size tube.

http://i.imgur.com/OBwnmGr.png

Took my airbrush with a .05mm nozzle (large general purpose) and 75psi with 9 parts laquer thinner to 1 part mineral spirits and blew all the paint off. Bad idea... too much laquer thinner it melted the plastic a few microns down. It didnt do any noticible damage but if I had touched it it would have got fingerprints and it might be slightly glossier now until I spray it. Going to spray it from a disatnce to try to get that rough look almost like powdercoating. I've never had to simulate deck planking before. I'd be better off buying some of that flat roller painted train decking for building 1800's train platforms.


I could always cut the deck out and replace it with flat stock styrene.

I just noticed it says US BB 62 NEW JERSEY, Lame. Tamiya is usually so great. I love the sharpness and fit of thec asting but these minor errors and the lack of detail is kindve lame for a Tamiya model.

I had a new idea to make the guns elevate. Steal Revells Mighty Mo' system where all 3 guns are in the turret and hinge on a little C casting. Ill extend the back of the guns with square rod, seperate the guns with round rod build the C channel by heat-treating some bent .030 sheet and then cut out the gun mounts so it can elevate. I would prefer each gun to traverse indivdually but after testing the way I built it above it broke after about 50 iterations. Tear it all out and start fresh.

A few of these in a diorama of firing a broadside could be really cool http://www.thisiscolossal.com/2014/0...in-your-house/

Well I finally got the time away from Project RedWater to get the first coat of the decking sprayed. Lesson learnt dont brush it. I brushed it then decided to remove the paint by spraying thinner at high pressure. I dont use environmentally safe thinners I go for the good stuff... some of the detail got melted. Its not really noticible, but I'll know and any modeller sees their mistakes stick out.

Hopefully after a few coats itll look decent, wont have the same amunt of detail but you'll know its decking.

Pics when I get another coat on. So busy with the game right now.

Had some free time lately. With summer finally melting the last of the snow up here I've been in the garage working on my engines lathe and models.

http://i.imgur.com/0vEJJmN.png
First we have the original deck color. I should have referenced some photos or looked at the box. It was much too light and with the deck detail I washed away by power spray laquer thinner over the earlier hand painted stuff it really was bad. So I sprayed some really thinned out brown to give it a darker matte coffee look.


http://i.imgur.com/xinIVmb.png
Sprues are starting to empty out!



http://i.imgur.com/L9TV8Z4.png
Some of the last "peices" to "build". Radar tower.


http://i.imgur.com/9i8MgxI.png
Here you can see the final hull and deck paint job with the decals ready to be applied after a matte clear coat. Everything to this point has been airbrushed. Theres a lot of hand painted details to finish off before the clear-coat comes but other than the antenna work and rigging shes about done.

(I HATE stretching sprues. I've tried lighters, stoves, heat guns, everything I can think of and people say its an art.... its luck. My best technique so far is to first glue an extra peice of sprue on all 4 sides of one, then heat up a peice of steel to a light red on the workbench and then roll it along it with my finger (Carefully) until its molten and then grab it up quick and let gravity take care of the rest. You get some really nice straight peices in the middle that way, but its like working with glass shards. I've done my fair share of ariels on planes and a couple boats but this boat requires about 4 feet of stretched sprue. :o unfortunatly you just dont get the same look from thread. Andof course when you try to glue the stretched sprue its so thin that just the little bittoo much cement and it melts the end and its too short and garbage for that perfect length you cut)

http://i.imgur.com/MlTtCLW.png
Some peices before painting them a nice mix of 6 parts naval grey with 1 part ocean blue (and a touch of Testors metallizer... I love adding that to anything I put a splash in anything that isnt supposed to be matte it just gives it an extra special look that you dont notice per-say.. but adds to the wow factor. Its like an aluminium (really really really fine particles in clear) but ground much finer and much thinner than regular paint). The best I could get for that navy ship blue color. If you look closey at the above pic you can just see the color difference. It really shines up close cause its a slight slight color change, but really adds detail.

Ive REALLY increased my fine airbrushing skills on this boat. The smoke stacks were airbrushed without any guides, infact the only parts I taped up were the deck and hull to get straight lines. The rest was free hand with my smallest (.010) tip on as low a pressure as I could get for flow (about 8-10 psi). I've been using these new paint cups lately that are 3 parts, a main cup where the paint goes into the airbrush up a channel in the side that goes into the outlet, the inner cup that holdes the paint with a hole in the bottom that feeds into the channel and of course the top. Its been a learning experience cause it takes a couple seconds to get the paint flowing through the channel but I'm in love with them. You can fill them up with paint outside the airbrush since due to the channel it doesnt spill out since its above the paint level even if you fill it above the outlet so you can have as many colors ready as you want, plus a 2oz suction feed glass cup with laquer thinner for a quick clean between colors and really increases workflow. I love them. They come in 1/16 oz sizes too which is nice, just a dollop of paint and a splash of thinner and you have the perfect amount for spraying some small parts. Plus the lids only have a pin-prick sized air hole (since they are designed for low-flow, detailed work) whereas usual gravity feed cups have a huge hole. so it keeps the mess down and lets you keep your paint mixed well by giving it a quick shake with no spillage or having to put your finger over the cups hole. Love them.

http://www.testors.com/product-catal...ories/feed-cup they call them side feed cups.