Definitely!

Haven't even taken a shot with it yet. These stupid hurricanes won't let up... been raining every weekend lately, and not a good outlook for this weekend either. :down:

I'm looking forward to getting out to the range.
I picked up 3 boxes of 150gr ammo.

Also I believe Stainless is just a finish.....a coating, so the metal in the bore and the rifling is still the same material, and they are still subject to oxidation unless cared for properly.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...1054813AAb4vUj

.......I may be wrong on this as I did not research it well but I think it is so.

Regardless.......very very nice rifle that should last a lifetime and give much enjoyment.

My A-bolt before the scope was mounted.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...h_DSC00614.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...h_DSC00612.jpg


Very very bad pictures. The yellow on the stock is just glare-reflection.

This is a heavy barreled varmint gun. 22-250 caliber. Limited use but very very fun to shoot and a very flat trajectory at long range. It is far from new but holding up very very well.

Ding ding ding! We have a winner! Yes - scratches are your enemy.

-S

PS. Now you have just created a point of rust too! SS doesn't have this problem. Or should we say, its very unlikely to rust.

Maybe on a cheap SS finish. My Kimber is solid.

-S

Although 'bluing' looks very attractive on a gun its not a very effective rust preventative, you have to keep it lightly oiled or it will begin to rust. Oil blackening is better. Military weapons are usually either parkerised (a US favourite) or coated with a tough protective paint such as Suncorite (as used by the British Army) as these are generally superior at keeping corrosion at bay.

I have always wondered exactly was is "Parkerised". Can anyone explain it to me in small words? :88)

Basically its a system of coating metals with a bonded layer of zinc or Manganese phosphate. There are different approaches to doing this but it usually involves lowering the parts to be coated in a heated chemical bath for a length of time, again that deopends on the specific Parkerising technique being used. The result is chemically bonded coating which is matt in finnish and resistant to ordinary corrosion. The surface is quite porous and added protection can be acheived by applying a coat of gun oil; the surface soaks it up well. Its sometimes used as a base for painted finnishes as it gives a good key for the paint to stick to the metal.

Much thanks

The first hunting trip is now set. :up:

Deer Hunting - 4 days, central Georgia, Oct 24-27th
It'll already be a week into the season by the time I get there.

Hunting lease property, tree stands and a few towers. I want to say it's 100+ acres, but now I can't remember exactly, might even be bigger. Use to be lumber company property so there are lots of thin pine trees that are planted irritatingly in rows. Kinda like walking thru a forest and looking down endless long hallways. A bit of a clash between nature and symmetry.

I gotta get a GA hunting license now.

Bare metal is more prone to rust than a blued firearm. Bluing is a controlled form of rust that helps to make the metal more rust resistant (I know it sounds strange but that's how it works).

Stainless steel can rust, it just doesn't rust as easily as other grades of steel.

Nope. Stainless steel is an alloyed steel containing various levels molybdenum, chromium, and nickel depending on the grade of steel (ie. 316 stainless, 416 stainless etc.)

The alloys make the steel more resistant to the effects of weather, heat, pressure, and moisture (stainless steel is often used for high-pressure steam pipes).

However, if you neglect the metals long enough it will eventually rust.

[quote=mrbeast][quote=SUBMAN1]Any metal surface whether it's painted, blued, parkerized, cerakoted, anodized or (insert metal treatment here), if you don't apply a light coat of oil to the firearm after each handling and at least once every 6 months it will begin to rust. The oil forms a protective (and more effective) barrier against moisture from the metal surfaces on the firearm.

And good explanation on parkerizing.:up:

If one were to go to for example hunting for elk or moose, how much would one need to bag to either make a profit or even to break even? Yes I know it's a hobby, not counted in terms of money but still, how much? If one were to get one big moose all to oneself and would take all the meat from it, how much meat would it be? 30 kg? That meat would be high class, all natural meat and more valuable then normal meat, would be a freezer full of it.

As someone who has fished a lot with lures and some flies I can understand it from a hobby point of view but at least here the costs of hunting are so high that one would naturally think of it also from a cost point of view.

A cost-benefit analysis has never crossed my mind. If it was something that concerned me, I doubt I would've picked a $1300 rifle/scope.

I guess if you're gonna look at it that way you need to start with, "What would you have to pay for a reasonable rifle that will be able to take large game?" I think you could easily get by with something in the $500-$600 range (or lower, what's a Remington 770 selling for these days $300?).

There is an added cost (at least for me) associated with processing the meat. I'll field dress it, but a butcher is going to be carving the steaks and grinding the meat. That processing might cost somewhere in the $0.40/lb (US) range.

Might be interesting to look at it that way... total up all your hunting costs and divide it by the cost of lean ground beef to determine how many deer it will take to break even. :hmm:

[quote=Yahoshua][quote=mrbeast]As i said, this does not happen to my Kimber. I have never oiled the outside of the gun in all these years, which follows my quote here:

Basically, SS is not going to rust on you or very unlikely to - but as you said, this also depends on the grade (416,316,304, etc.)

-S

If I'm not mistaken, I think the different grades of stainless also have something to do with carbon content like 420HC (high carbon). There seems to be a tradeoff between corrosive resistence and hardness or ability to hold an edge. But I dunno that might just be specific to knives.

I've got stainless steel dive knives that hold their edge well but will rust and pit within a day or two if you don't rinse the saltwater and keep em dry. My buck knife is 420HC and it seems to be a nice balance.

Actually, I haven't checked the grade of stainless on my X-Bolt. It does have some sort of a matte finish on the barrel, I don't think it's a coating though (you can see it pretty good in my 3rd picture above).

Out of curiosity, any chanse of seeing shot group pictures before the 29th of september?

Yeah I'll try to post something in the next week or two...

I'm coaching the kids baseball team and we've got games on Saturdays. This Sunday I'm attending the South Florida Gun Show, and taking the concealed weapons course.

It might be next weekend before I can make it to the range. South Florida isn't the best place for access to public ranges either... :down:

No rush, im just curious, will give me something to strive for on the rifle range when my military service starts :)