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-   Silent Hunter III (https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/forumdisplay.php?f=182)
-   -   Starting out with Silent Hunter 3 (https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=172924)

maillemaker 07-29-10 11:57 AM
Quote:
Yes, assuming you are perpendicular, or will be at the time of firing. And, if you are shooting with the front tubes. 180 if using the rear tubes. Any turn with the scope wil show the same adjustment on the AOB dial.
Well I tried it last night, and I'm not seeing it.

My scope was set to zero bearing. I went to the TDC and set it to 90 AoB , and dialed in the speed.

Went to scope view and turned until the gyro read 000, but then noticed that the AoB was no longer at 90 (because of turning the scope to get 000 gyro). So I turned the TDC back on and dialed it back to 90 AoB, then turned it off and turned scope to get 000 gyro again, and so on, until I finally get 90 AoB combined with the scope pointing at 000 gyro.

This usually results with the scope at a bearing of 10 degrees to port or starboard of 000, which results in the correct amount of lead for the current torpedo speed setting to hit ships that cross my 000 bearing at 90 degrees.

Steve

Pisces 07-29-10 04:01 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by maillemaker (Post 1455731)
Well I tried it last night, and I'm not seeing it.

My scope was set to zero bearing. I went to the TDC and set it to 90 AoB , and dialed in the speed.

Went to scope view and turned until the gyro read 000, but then noticed that the AoB was no longer at 90 (because of turning the scope to get 000 gyro). So I turned the TDC back on and dialed it back to 90 AoB, then turned it off and turned scope to get 000 gyro again, and so on, until I finally get 90 AoB combined with the scope pointing at 000 gyro.

This usually results with the scope at a bearing of 10 degrees to port or starboard of 000, which results in the correct amount of lead for the current torpedo speed setting to hit ships that cross my 000 bearing at 90 degrees.

Steve
I think you are under the mistaken impression that the AOB dial should show 90 degrees at the time of firing, in the end. That is not true. You want the AOB dial and the periscope bearing to show the propper course difference when you look at the impact point (which is bearing 000 in this case because you want the torpedos to move straight out of the tubes).

When you have moved the periscope to make the gyro angle 000, then the AOB dial has shifted about 5-15 degrees depending on the target speed. This is how it should be. Since you are not looking at the impact point anymore, but some place before his doom meets him. And so also the place where he still shows some small angle on his front windscreen or bridge. Also, you mention you have to repeatedly 'correct' the AOB and notice that this makes the gyro angle goes off as a result. This succesive aproximation to get it right is a sign that it's not the way to go about it. Really, set the AOB dial once to the correct angle and then aim. (directly at the target or some place in the future) That's all that is needed.

You may have hit targets anyway with your current procedure. But due to the probably short range, and this 90 degree setup(which gives the most margin for error) you won't notice that it is wrong. Hits to longer distances you'll be less succesfull. It's your choice, but the propper way is just simpler.

maillemaker 07-29-10 06:32 PM
OK, then I'm confused about the whole fixed wire thing then.

What should I set the AoB to for fixed wire shooting? 90 degrees, right?

Are you saying I should set the periscope to 000 bearing, then set the AoB to 90, and then adjust the scope to 000 gyro, letting the AoB be whatever at that point?

Steve

Pisces 07-29-10 06:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by maillemaker (Post 1455954)
OK, then I'm confused about the whole fixed wire thing then.

What should I set the AoB to for fixed wire shooting? 90 degrees, right?

Are you saying I should set the periscope to 000 bearing, then set the AoB to 90, and then adjust the scope to 000 gyro, letting the AoB be whatever at that point?

Steve
No, the fixed wire thing has nothing to do with what I wrote previously. It's just a speed measurement procedure. Nothing to do with setting up AOB in relation to your periscope bearings. You described the fixed wire procedure correctly.

If you want to set for a perpendicular attack, and have the torpedos move straight out of the tube you do the following:

1: set course 90 degrees to the target's course. (make sure you're ahead)
2: set periscope to 0 (or 180 if you use aft torpedos)
3: go to tdc panel (F6)
4: flip the tdc switch to manual (!!! don't move the periscope/UZO until the switch is set back)
5: set the AOB dial to 90 (arrow points to whichever direction it will pass through the scope view TO ; left to right means arrow to right)
6: set the target speed if not done allready
7: set TDC switch back to auto
8: swing periscope or UZO until gyro angle reads 0
9: set torpedodepth, salvo, open torpedo doors etc..., check what Bernard has been upto (... in other words, double check yourself )

If the torpedo speed or target speed was set incorrectly repeat step 8.

10: wait for the target to cross the line with the juicy parts, and fire.

That's all folks.

maillemaker 08-04-10 09:19 AM
Quote:
No, the fixed wire thing has nothing to do with what I wrote previously. It's just a speed measurement procedure. Nothing to do with setting up AOB in relation to your periscope bearings. You described the fixed wire procedure correctly.
You're right, of course, I misspoke.

OK, I have tried it now, and I think I understand better what is going on.

First, I set my uboat to a 90 degree intercept with target track.

Then I set my scope to 000 HEADING.

Then I manually set TDC to 90 degree AoB and correct target speed and turn off TDC.

Then I go to the scope and turn to 000 GYRO.

The last step provides target "lead" from 000 bearing of my u-boat. Whatever that lead angle is (usually 10-15 degrees, I guess this depends on the speed of the torpedo), the AoB is deflected from 90 by the same amount.

What this indicates to me is that the AoB is NOT 90 degrees at the time of firing. It is 90 degrees at the time of impact.

Correct?

Pisces 08-04-10 12:35 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by maillemaker (Post 1459563)
You're right, of course, I misspoke.

OK, I have tried it now, and I think I understand better what is going on.

First, I set my uboat to a 90 degree intercept with target track.

Then I set my scope to 000 HEADING.

Then I manually set TDC to 90 degree AoB and correct target speed and turn off TDC.

Then I go to the scope and turn to 000 GYRO.

The last step provides target "lead" from 000 bearing of my u-boat. Whatever that lead angle is (usually 10-15 degrees, I guess this depends on the speed of the torpedo), the AoB is deflected from 90 by the same amount.

What this indicates to me is that the AoB is NOT 90 degrees at the time of firing. It is 90 degrees at the time of impact.

Correct?
Yup, correct if you don't forget to set the TDC switch back (before moving the scope). :up:

the.terrabyte.pirate 08-09-10 09:50 AM
If you're like me when I first went manual targetting, you're scratching your head wondering what these guys above me are prattling on about.

My advice (for what it's worth)

Start simple. Start with a stock game. Worry about mods etc later. Don't worry about manual targetting until you better understand how to position your boat. Stock SH III has little triangles that change colour depending on how "good" your torp shot is lined up. Close to 90 degrees (for impact) is ideal (and green). 90 - 45 degrees is better for an under-keel magnetic shot (and yellow). Anything beyond that is red, and means it's a bad shot.

Start by concentrating on visually identifying ships, let the game highlight the "weak spots" in the recognition manual when you have a perfect solution, and dance a bit in your chair as the ship breaks in half and sinks.

Slowly wind your way up the realism levels as you either feel more confident, or feel that it's getting too easy. Limit your CO2 and Fuel, enable realistic ship sinking times, get rid of the noise meter etc.

Only make the jump to GWX when you're ready to go fully manual targeting. GWX is a whole new gameplan, and if you're not ready you may feel like you're floundering. The learning curve is less steep if you have a strong grasp of the basics beforehand.

And don't feel bad about starting the game easy. Everyone else did.

flag4 08-09-10 11:41 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by LakatosI (Post 1454435)
I recently came into contact with the subsim genre by watching a trailer and gameplay footage of Silent Hunter 5. I was really impressed by the graphics and gameplay, and instantly wanted to get my hands on it. Luckily I read about the high system requirements and the ocean of bugs that plague the game. I was really looking forward to be a part of the Battle for the Atlantic, which is why I decided to go for Silent Hunter 3 instead.

Now my only problem is with learning how to play decently on this damned thing :P Now I was thinking of starting out playing on 100% realism after completing the academy, trying to do everything manually, no updating marks on the map or anything, just to start off learning good habits and the science behind sinking ships :P However, I'm starting to have doubts regarding my approach, mainly because of the steep learning curve I would be about to face. So my question here is is what I'm trying to do feasible?

Also, I was wondering if anyone could point me to some tutorials covering the main aspects of the game, not covered in Naval Academy, or explaining more complex techniques, theories, etc. I found a link to Wazoo's tutorial here on the forum, however most of the links there pointing to the various handy mods are broken, so I was wondering if anyone could point me to a place where I can still download them?
And what's up with this elusive "Community Manual" that I see popping up on the forum, yet no decent link pointing to it.

I hope you can help out a poor noob in distress. I am literally amazed that despite the age of this game this community is still so active, although a bit "closed in", seeing that most of the information available isn't noob friendly because the link are outdated.

Anyways, Cheerio!
LakatosI, welcome! you are at the best place - here at Subsim.

all the above advice i can not add to coz its spot on.
as others have said....take it easssy. dont panik. AND be very very patient with yourself. ask lots of questions too. there is no such thing as a silly question when you are starting out.

Bon Voyage :salute:

Canovaro 08-12-10 02:46 PM
Hi and welcome aboard.

I admire you for taking the 100% realism right from the start.
To help out I made a collection of charts and tactics and stuff a couple of months ago:

http://subsim.com/radioroom/download...o=file&id=1487

Have fun, full realism is the way to enjoy the game the most imo.

pickinthebanjo 08-12-10 04:57 PM
Use a good GUI mod, they are for the most part designed for manual targeting. I use ACM Reloaded, it helped.

Brag 08-12-10 07:31 PM
For in game tactics, lots of people have found my Kielman website useful:salute:

Herr-Berbunch 08-13-10 05:15 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brag (Post 1466168)
For in game tactics, lots of people have found my Kielman website useful:salute:
Sure did, thanks Brag :D


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