I didn't notice anyone else ask.

But, have you been wearing a ground strap or a least been grounded to case during the assembly ?

God I hope so.

Interesting...I would have thought that the current draw from the GFX card on start-up would have been small enough that the problem would only be apparent when the GFX card started drawing peak current (i.e. when running a 3D game).

I believe you, but I can say I've never had any such problems on any of my systems using standard 13A fuses and breakers. 55A is crazy!

I can happily report that I tried one back in 1993 as a fasion statement (actually, was helping out a PC builder at the time for the day) - for about 2 minutes, before I ripped it off! Before and since then, I have never owned a ground strap and have yet to fry a PC component - in all the 10's of thousands of components I have touched (used to be in the PC biz for a while way back when), nor any of the 20+ PC's I have owned over the years.

Don't get me wrong, its good prevention against not thinking about grounding yourself out before touching things (simply touch the case of the PC you are working on, or if it is external components, work on top of an anti-static bag), but not neccesary after it becomes common practice to automatically grounding yourself prior to working.

Though possible, I think it would actually be hard to really fry a component with static electricity.

-S

I hope you get it fixed when you get home ... sounds like no power to the MB to me. Like the others said a loose plug can be the problem especially on the back of the power supply itself.

Here's a problem I had one time, hope it saves you or someone a trip to the computer store ... the sata plug on the MB to the hard drive should never be messed with while the power supply is plugged in.

Blew my power supply just trying to see if the sata was plugged in properly ...

I know, I know never put your hands inside a computer when it's plugged in, but I did ... I thought it was safe due to the whole unit was turned off. Power is still flowing through the MB to all of it's little plug in's.

Good luck mate

Hi SUBMAN1

I don't use a strap either but I also have experience.

But I think your last statement was very dangerous.

To the inexperienced that could very costly.

Static damage is the most common cause of computer hardware failure
and not covered under warrenty and is easy to tell.

Our friend doesn't seemed to be all that experienced pointing out no thermal paste and doesn't know what a multimeter is or how to use it.

It's one thing if your talking to a peer and quite another to someone with
less experience who might be trying to wing it on their own.

Anywho it is probably a moot point. We'll never know if he fryed something.

I hope him the best of luck as I'm sure you all do.

That is why I emphasized that it is good prevention. Or maybe did I not emphasize that enough?

By the way, it is easy to return static killed parts. It is hard for them to tell too. They just think a transistor failed in the silicon. Replaced under warranty.

-S

Yep -it is crazy. I did a double take when I read that, and it explained my circuit breaker popping - and the need to reset it. I thought it had a short at first.

This is the PSU in question:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/produc...no=st60f&area=

It is on page 1 of the manual - http://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/st60fmanual.pdf

Looks like I was wrong! Only 50 Amps! (only) :D

-S

PS. A thought just occured to me - the inrush voltage of the video board is going to be high as well - the reason the protection of the PSU kicks in and the reason for the lack of power to the whole system for it.

Just thought of something else. Make absolutely sure that the MB and CPU power connectors are firmly placed in their sockets. If they are even slightly misaligned the connection won't be complete.

Take it to a computer repair place and have them look at it. It's better to pay a diagnostic price than have to rebuy expensive hardware because you burned it.

Well, I don't agree with this idea at least. This is no way to learn.

-S

Expensive mistakes suck unless you can afford it.

They still suck just as bad even when you can afford it. I don't care if I rack in 10 digits a year, I will still get ticked at $100 mistake. :D

Anyway, to learn is actually more important that that $100. Eventually, you become an expert, and it can't make you many many times over that amount for your learned services. Look at the problem as an asset, instead of a liability is all I am saying since I don't think he will screw his system up, but he will definitely learn from the ordeal.

-S

Sometimes the best thing to do is step back take a breather and then go back with a fresh out look and take it all apart and start over with the new advice and tips and VERY carefully put it back together double checking everything. Then cross your fingers and push the on button.:)

I read your posts very closely and you had help building his last rig.
I would suggest you do so again. It will be alot cheaper and a learning experience.

If you want experience take your old rig apart and put it back together
yourself with NO help and see if it works. If it does then youv'e gained knowledge and skills at minimul cost risk.

Again I wish you success :up:

Have you tried the paperclip PSU test?


*** MAKE SURE THE POWER SUPPLY IS UNPLUGGED FIRST *** Simply Jumper Pin 14 ( which is the green wire) to any of the ground pins which are 3,5,7,13,15,16,17 ( all which have a black wire). I use a paperclip to do so, just stick the paperclip into the connector like you would be pluging it into the motherboard.

In my shop we had an LED connected to two wires via this method. Not only did the fan turn on, but the light did also.

firstly, the cpu already has thermal paste so no worries there. still no joy with the power though.
heres what ive tried

pc case to MOBO wiring - on the case i have a "power sw" lead which has 2 holes. a "pow led -" and a "power lead +" both single hole. on the MOBO ive tryed pluggin these into the relevant pins to no avail. i reckon ive tried everythin with these wires
on the old asrock MOBO there was only 1 "power switch" lead which plugged into the "power button" socket which was a lot simpler.
i managed to wire up the old equipment in an older case no prob but no so with this new stuff.


someone said to try it without the vid card but no joy there either. the PSU has 4 cables and all are defo pluggle in the right place.
the tower is around 3 years old could the wiring in the actual case be the problem?