Driveshaft housing in place.
http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/1...0012zu8.th.jpg
...with Eduard strip:
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/3...0141rm5.th.jpg

TBC...

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/6...1001nz1.th.jpg
Some more Eduard PE in place of filled holes.


http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/9...1007ep3.th.jpg
Bumper strips replaced after sanding destroyed the revell bits. :cool:


http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/8...1008qg7.th.jpg
...more PE.


http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/7...1006ub9.th.jpg
Driveshafts custom made to replace original shafts.

TBC...

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/3...1011kx2.th.jpg
The cone was cut away from the driveshaft and glued to the linkage.

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/9...1013et4.th.jpghttp://img99.imageshack.us/img99/963...1014um7.th.jpg
Test fitted with the driveshafts.

TBC...

Screws
 

The screws just reached me today.
Thanks to Deans Marine from Peterborough , which are the dealers of Raboesch - the screws maker.
Normaly people use them for RC models , but the 20 mm 3 blade model is just perfect for my U-552.
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/9...s002oe0.th.jpghttp://img505.imageshack.us/img505/7...s001an2.th.jpg
If You ordering some for Your project remember to order left and right.
I need to fix it to my drill and sand them to the point - not big deal.:cool:

TBC...

original Revell screw - note the indent under the blade:
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/2...s012ar1.th.jpg

Raboesch brass screw before sanding - the blades are thick , and cone is all wrong:
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/2...s011ib5.th.jpg

...and finished screw , blades sanded thin , and corrected cone:
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/6...s010cg0.th.jpg

All three of them for comparison:
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/5...s013sq1.th.jpg

TBC...

After extensive search on the net for formula to make the brass look like it was in water for extended period of time i finaly followed Rokett`s footsteps , and dunk the screws in the vinegar+salt+tap water solution.
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/9...s001nj9.th.jpg

Couldnt resist the temptation and post that picture - i think it looks cool. :rock:

Siara- just wanted you to know- which I am sure you have already
 

seen but this post now has had over 15,000 views!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
very impressive - as is the work you ared oing keeping it up

don't know who is in chagre of assigning "stickies" but this thread deserves one !!
:rock: :rock: :rock:

Chief sticky-master reporting!

:ahoy:

Wow - a sticky! Thanks guys - didnt even know one need 15000 views for one. It was never my aim to get that thread the sticky status. Nevertheless its a honour - thank You for reading it regularly.

Back to model.
I was aware sooner or later i need to paint the 552 , and mixing the colors was out of question. More than few people tried to get the colors right. Question is whats right?
I decided to go along the tried and trusted , and just ordered the full set of WEM paints.
White Ensign Models/WEM/ sell the renge of model paints , produced using original chips of paints from real subs and ships. The chips were "strip down" in laboratory to reproduce similar colors.
I trust the experts on that one , and who`s there to argue on the base of few faded , badly lit fotographs of real boats. We can never gues what real colors were , as the salt water , sunshine , and just plain ageing of paints did change its appearance a lot.
So as i said its just the guesswork , and hopefuly the WEM paints are going to give me the base to work from for the weathering progress.


TBC...

Before i start making ribs all along the side flood holes i thought ill check the deck for fit. Deck is a combination of original revell deck/bow and stern section/ and wooden deck from Nautilus models.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4...1005yp2.th.jpghttp://img215.imageshack.us/img215/2...1004fh2.th.jpghttp://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5...1006kz3.th.jpg

Eduard bow section to be glued on top.
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/4672/deck1ei2.th.jpg

Small box with the pipe running through to add 3D effect to the opening.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3...1011qx4.th.jpghttp://img444.imageshack.us/img444/4...1012um3.th.jpg

TBC...

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3...1003aw1.th.jpghttp://img220.imageshack.us/img220/1...1005fx8.th.jpg
Bullnose was removed, because it was in the wrong place, and the shape wasnt right.

TBC...

Deck - steel stern section
 

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/1...2004eg5.th.jpghttp://img338.imageshack.us/img338/8...2005ix4.th.jpghttp://img299.imageshack.us/img299/2...2006yw1.th.jpghttp://img299.imageshack.us/img299/7...2008db6.th.jpg

Similar to bow section the plastic part needs to be sanded in order to receive the PE on top. Also i will make the box under the grill.

TBC...

Does the metal PE decking end up being flush/level with the wood decking?

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/6...2001ki0.th.jpg

Only the plastic is in fixed in place/work on ribs/ the wood is just inserted for the pics- hence the gap on both sides of wood.
Once is all glued in-it should end up flush. :up:

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/1...2004ei1.th.jpg

TBC...

Hi Siara, you are building a perfect master piece. I think all your posts and all your notes, explanations and pictures are marking a keystone to build this model. This is the "ABC of the real replica of a VII class Uboat". :up: Thanks a lot.