View Full Version : Modeling Resources
I talked to Neal about it and we'd like to start this thread where we can list sources for some of the harder-to-find modeling and hobby supplies.
In order to avoid :spammm: its best if this thread is moderated such that:
-URL links must be cleared by a moderator.
-Any posts containing URL links must be held "in limbo" until the URL(s) is/are verified by a moderator to be free of SPAM or malicious code.
This will be a dumb idea if its just me posting random links. :O: If you have either an on-line or physical source, "Mom and Pop" store, or just a good, but unconsidered, source for your go-to hobby supplies or kits- this is your thread. :up:
In other words, PLEASE share where you find your go-to stuff. Just be aware that all posts that contain URLs will be "held up" until they are verified. Its also a good idea if you state why you use a source, instead of just posting links. A little description can go a long way. For example, where is this source located? Is it half way around the world from me or is it local to you? How was the service? Did you have to wait a long time before anyone took your order or it was shipped? This info shouldn't be considered "good or bad", it just helps the rest of us figure out if we would want to use it.
As an example to kick off this thread, here's one of my favorite secret weapons: :D
Prototype wire, AKA "wire wrap".
Wire wrap is a very fine-gauge coated wire. The usual size is "30 gauge" or 0.25 mm diameter. Its main use is in designing and testing I/C boards and assemblies. Yes, its great for adding LEDs to a project, but that's just the tip of the iceberg. :D Its also available in a multitude of colors, when you can find it. The ideal insulation colors for modeling are white, black, yellow, and red. One full roll will last you for a lifetime but if you see it around, buy it.
- Ignition and engine wiring. Wire wrap is thin enough that you can accidently poke it into your finger. Its also much more accurate for 1/25th to 1/20th scale car models unless your car uses ignition wires that are as thick as your arm. :O: Wire wrap bends nicely and holds it shape. You can easily wrap it around anything from a dowel to a sewing pin to create your own coil springs to CB radio mic cords.
-Towed arrays and mooring line. For 1/350th scale subs and ships, wire wrap is what you use to take it to the next level. :up: Black wire is ideal for a towed array, streamed behind the boat or "faked" on the deck. White wire is great for mooring lines (modern Navy) in a pier-side diorama or coiled on the deck.
-You get the idea. :D There are hundreds of uses for this stuff.
-This sounds great, where can I get some? Yeah, that's a great question. :oops: I checked my link this morning, an online electrical supply store on the west coast. They no longer stock it. In the good old days, you could just wander into your local Radio Shack and buy a 100 foot roll in your choice of 10 different colors. Wire wrap isn't "unobtainium" yet, but its getting tougher to find. I did spot a small roll on Amazon this morning, so its still available. Hit up Google and try search words like "wire wrap", "prototype", and "breadboard" but be careful with breadboard, that wire is much thicker than what you're looking for.
Next post will be my standard "go to" links for modeling supplies in the USA.
I like yours idea
I have a few links Which I know is clean.
One of them is
Wonderland Models
and
premium hobbies
Then there is this
axel's modellbau shop
People can search for these by them self
Markus
Markus, did you read the first post? :O:
This info shouldn't be considered "good or bad", it just helps the rest of us figure out if we would want to use it.
Why would I want to look up those sites? Do they sell stuff? Where are they located? Do they only accept Bitcoin and PayPal? :timeout:
The idea is to list stuff we found by accident or sellers we would never have considered if left to our own devices.
Here's another example:
F Toys. No, not those kinds of "F toys". :oops: These are mostly 1/144th scale fighter jet models. Why have we never heard of them?
That's a good question and its a rabbit hole I've recently fallen into. :D
As it turns out, PLATZ F Toys are made in Japan and sold in Asian and Australian markets. Literally. We're talking grocery stores and 7-11s. :o
Confused yet? It gets better. :up:
Buying an F Toy in Asia means you wind up with a pre-painted, snap together fighter plane with decals. And a piece of chewing gum... :o
Remember those old Topps baseball cards? If you do, you're getting warmer.
So, these are really cheap toys for kids and what the heck are they doing in this thread? OK, in their home market they are cheap and they are designed for kids to play with and collect. Their home market also happens to be Japan, so what you get is easy to assemble but also finely molded and accurate for what it is. The paint used is, well, top notch by 1/144th scale collectable standards. :o
Here comes the kicker. F Toys are also one of the few kit makers that still molds pilot figures in 1/144th scale.
Read that again, I'm not making it up. Try to find seated pilot figures in that scale. You're going to find bupkis. :yep:
That bomber or fighter you built "in flight" with the gear up? The seats are empty. :yep: There are no figures available from Shapeways, not in that scale. No resin, either. Here's the best part, what you get isn't half bad. These things build up looking really close to their counterparts from Revell, especially if you take the time to clean and test fit the parts before hitting them with some glue. :yep:
I found a nice F Toys Su-30 on EBay (minus the chewing gum). The kit was surprisingly good, even though the two pilots quickly defected to fly a B-52 I'm building. :D
Outside of Asia, EBay is your one shot at finding these kits. Just be careful. I just bought an F-14 model last week ( $9 with $7 shipping) before I realized it's shipping from China, with their latest flu lockdowns this might take a while. :doh:
I read it two times more.
I posted these as I have used them to buy tools and couple of models by wonderland models.
Why I didn't put them up with url was this
"-URL links must be cleared by a moderator.
-Any posts containing URL links must be held "in limbo" until the URL(s) is/are verified by a moderator to be free of SPAM or malicious code."
Wonderland Models are located in Scotland
Wonderland Models has been established for over 50 years as Scotland's leading model shop and hobby store in Edinburgh.
Here is what Premium hobbies are located in UK
Premium Hobbies is a new small business established on February the 9th 2018, located in North Somerset.
Axel's Modellbau Shop is located in Bodenfelde, Germany
Markus
Don't concentrate on the URL stuff, at least not yet.
I'm waiting to hear from Neal on how he wants to handle them.
Meanwhile, I've heard of Axel's but suppose I haven't.
Why would I want to check out their web site?
Are we talking about kits? Paint and tools? Decals and P/E? I'm guessing you've had good experiences with them???
See where I'm going? :)
If I mention "Hannants" with no context, just the name, its a little confusing.
Don't concentrate on the URL stuff, at least not yet.
I'm waiting to hear from Neal on how he wants to handle them.
Meanwhile, I've heard of Axel's but suppose I haven't.
Why would I want to check out their web site?
Are we talking about kits? Paint and tools? Decals and P/E? I'm guessing you've had good experiences with them???
See where I'm going? :)
If I mention "Hannants" with no context, just the name, its a little confusing.
I have had good experience with Wonderland Models.
Model kits and tools bought from them came within a week.
Premium Here I have only ordered a few things from them tools from the category painting supplies
Secondly this Online store has been recommended by Nigel on yt.
Axel well I made a search for some tools to see if there were some hobby store inside EU.. I thought they have a lot of tools and models why not recommend this store.
I have payed the online store a visit and been lurking around.
I think you know me by now and would understand I would not post info about online hobby shop, if there weren't a possibility to buy al type of model working tools or models in every scale. I would not give advise to homepages that "Sucks" NEVER.
Edit
Forgot something...I copied the name you posted Hannants and found their online hobby store.
End edit
Markus
Onkel Neal
04-21-22, 10:50 PM
I think this is a great idea, we can allow posts with links to resources; if we come across spam we can handle that on a case-by-case basis.
So far, I have been utilizing https://www.scalehobbyist.com/ for supplies and models, and https://evandesigns.com/ for electrical stuff.
This will be a test for the URL's.
Its only a single link and its my Big Kahuna in the US. :D
http://www.hobbylinc.com/
EDIT- This is NOT the same company as "Hobby Link Japan", who also has a good selection but prices, shipping fees, and shipping times may be a turn off for North American customers.
Hobbylinc can best be described as your local (US) hobby store's warehouse and distributor. :rock: If its sold as retail in the US, they probably have it in stock. :o
This includes parts for RC and trains, wooden ship kits and accessories, current-issue plastic models, most of the plastic model aftermarket parts and scratch building supplies , glues and paints, what ever you can think of.
I'm not kidding. Their front page looks like most other online hobby stores BUT start digging and you'll get an idea of how deep their selection goes. :o
As an example, you know that display in your hobby store for Evergreen plastic sheets? Hobbylinc carries the ENTIRE Evergreen line and Evergreen started out as a supplier for structural models (like, you want to build an entire factory in 1/48th scale to test the lay-out). They also have the entire line of K+S metal tubing and shapes.
As another example, let's say you're a happy guy in Texas building a 1/350th scale Ohio class SSBN. :D Let's say you break some of the blades off the prop. :Kaleun_Mad: In your rage, you wonder why no one ever made one of these props out of real metal- for Pete's sake! As it turns out, someone did. :o
Dig deep enough and you'll find a solid brass copy of that part, warts and all but in solid brass. I had to buy one just to put it on the shelf near my spare parts drawer. Its much too heavy to attach to the plastic kit and it would take days to clean and polish it out, but its there.. :D If I had to guess, its meant for one of those carved mahogany wood models.
This brings up the downside of HobbyLinc.. They probably have "it" in stock, you just need to find "it". Pack a big lunch and settle down for a long session of searching, better yet- wait for a three day weekend. :up:
Don't let that generic looking front page fool you. They most likely have what you're looking for. To put this in perspective, most of my more oddball gizmos I use to scratch build, I found by mistake at HobbyLinc.
I have a long-term project to build a heavy duty, operational trailer hitch in 1/18th scale, using as many metal parts as I can find. The tough part was to find an accurate-sized hitch ball. This is where RC came to the rescue, I actually found the right sized ball for the main part of the hitch in the "servos" parts section. I'm just waiting to find the smaller ball for a sway control.
The only other thing to watch out for is HobbyLinc's "backorder" status. I'm guessing HobbyLinc's definition of "backorder" is "This company still exists and we're assuming they will produce this kit or part again sometime in the future". Always check the availability status and use common sense. Order stuff ONLY if its listed as "in stock". While they have a strong selection of European and Asian kits, they don't carry everything. This also includes many of those "short run" kits. Remember what HobbyLinc's "bread and butter" is, selling wholesale to the hobby stores.
Service on-line is great, you'll get e-mail updates as your order gets packed and shipped. Packing is done well and prices overall are very fair with shipping prices (mostly UPS) in the "low to middle" category. Service outside the US is unknown on my part, although you'll find comments from Canadian buyers that are positive.
Something else we should get out of the way, early. :03:
When I refer to a company as "Mom and Pop", I'm talking about a small business (including a tax number) that is run out of a small store or home. A "Mom and Pop" is run as a business. They may run a store for the love of the hobby, but they have to generate some kind of profit and pay taxes as a business.
A term I won't be using a lot is "Cottage Industry". They are out there and its up to you if you want to go down that path. For the most part, in my definition, cottage industries aren't a true business and do not have a tax number or any of the paper work it takes to define a business. They may be sellers on EBay or even Amazon but for the most part I'm talking about the folks who can't accept payment by a credit card or personal check. You can mail them cash or use PayPal, Crypto, Patreon, etc. and take your chances.
In short, my feeling is that if someone wants to pretend to be in business- I'll happily pretend to be a customer. But they aren't getting any of my money. :03:
This is a can of worms and can be a very gray area. In my opinion, we should not post URL's or links to Facebook, etc. unless we're sure its a legit business.
Let me first start with a recommendation It's ET2SN link and description of hobbylinc. I have ordered two wooden boat models from them some years ago. So for my American friends who like to build wooden models hobbylinc is the place.
(But since I had to pay double for these two models-VAT a.s.o I have stopped ordering from USA.)
My own Recommendation.
This hobbystore has it's location in Edinburgh Scotland.
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
I have placed more than a few orders and the thing came within a week.
They have models that is hard to find and tools for any model works.
I haven't been ordering after UK left EU, so I don't know if there will be extra VAT for us who lives in EU ?
For the UK resident I recommend it.
I also recommend these online stores for those who don't care if they have to pay double for a model or tool(s)
(If I have made something wrong with this comment then erase it.)
Markus
If I have made something wrong with this comment
Markus
Yeah, you're going to make me spend some money. :k_confused:
That is a GOOD link. :yeah:
And, yeah, that's why I try to list the country of where the store is.
If its on a different continent than you are, its usually a hassle of some kind.
-Update. Dang you, Markus! :k_confused:
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-360jkouzn1/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/36713/298731/12564__61050.1648660578.jpg?c=1
I have this plane, in THIS livery installed in FS2004, and its a shame they don't show a side view.
:Kaleun_Salivating:
When I recommend an online hobby store it will one who ships world wide and not some local who don't ship outside country/outside EU or outside USA.
By the way I have a F/A-18 E Super Hornet in Scale 1:32. about 2/3-finished have made some mistake on the plane so I don't know if I'm going to finish her.
Markus
Some "honorable mention" links. :up:
Not where you go most of the time, but very handy when they are needed.
https://www.modelroundup.com/Default.asp
Model Roundup has been around for a while and mostly concentrates on 1/25th scale cars. As I recall, they started out as a source for old NASCAR kits and resin bodies. Located in Atlanta, Ga (US) their stock of "aftermarket" items (photo etch, decals, building supplies) has increased over the years and tends to be very complete and stable. I think of MR as that old hobby shop in town that has stuff stacked up to the rafters. :up: Take your time and dig around, you'll find what you were looking for. One sideline is old, vintage, and out of production kits, although these kits carry a slight premium MR keeps their prices reasonable. We're not talking about EBay where old kits get bid into the stratosphere, but the prices can be high. Service and packing is good, but their shipping rates can feel high. Its best to think of MR as a stable source for your 1/25th scale auto jones, but you will pay a premium at some point.
https://upscalehobbies.com/
A kind of a snootier, more oddball version Model Roundup located in Indiana. Upscale has a good handle on Japanese and German kits but military kits could be thought of as a sideline, at best. I'll use them if they have what I'm looking for and I'm out of options. :O: This isn't their fault, I'm just not that into anime and gundam.
https://www.detailmaster.com/
and
https://www.modelcargarage.com/eshop/pc/home.asp
I'm putting these two together because its mostly the same stuff, also located in the US. Aftermarket parts and P/E for 1/25th scale model cars. Detail Master did it first, they were the GOAT in terms of finding stuff to glue to your contest entry. In many ways, DM and Model Car Garage work together so you'll find a lot of cross-over between the two sites. Both sites tend to go through their ups and downs, so try one first and if you can't find what you wanted try the other.
Just because you aren't working in 1/25th scale, don't be afraid to think outside the box. Their photo etch hood pins for muscle cars can easily migrate over to a 1/350th scale nuclear sub as MSW/ASW inlets and outlets. :D
One link I almost forgot, but this was something I never thought I would see:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/mulsannemike/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
I stumbled across Mulsanne Mike while I was looking for a good kit review for that Delta IV. No big deal, printed resin screws in 1/350th scale for various classes of nuke and conventional subs. :o
Without going into details, these screws are very accurate and I wonder how he got this idea and where he got the information. :up:
What you get will drop your jaw. :yep: To put this in context, the screw for Neal's Ohio is less than 1 inch in diameter and it is probably the largest part he offers. Mike had to figure out a way to print these parts at this level of detail and to provide some way of shipping them without damage. The blades/flukes of these screws are very delicate and molded in scale thickness. :o That's good and bad, you may want to "cheat" a little and add a bead of thin CA glue on both sides of each blade where they join to the hub. :hmm2:
What you'll get will look almost like a hairball or a crumbled up page of a newspaper. :O: You'll see a kind of a sprue at the base and "runners" going to the hub plus three runners for each blade. TAKE YOUR TIME with these parts. Gently wash the whole assembly in warm soapy water and rinse. Cutting the screw free from its runners takes patience and either your best pair of sprue nippers or your finest saw blade. Work from the outside in, after you cut the join between the blade and sprue cut the bottom of the sprue loose from its base to get it out of the way. DO NOT TRY TO CUT THE SPRUE FLUSH TO WHERE IT MOUNTS ON THE BLADE. Leave a small nub of material and move on. Once the screw is free of the sprue, come back with a very fine file (I use a Tamiya diamond file for photo etch) and gently file down the nub. This part sounds very labor intensive but you'll be happy with the results. :yeah: Don't try to set a speed record getting this into paint and you'll do fine.
In the Delta IV thread I wrote something I want to repeat. IF YOU BUILD 1/350th SCALE SHIPS AND SUBS, WE NEED TO SUPPORT THIS GUY. Think of your best source for aftermarket parts, they have NOTHING close to this level of detail. :yep:
If you're ordering from Mike for the first time, order two or even three of his screws for your build. Like I stressed before, these parts are very delicate due to their level of detail. Expect to break a blade by accident, it just happens.
With painting, try to keep it simple. One light coat of primer and one normal color coat, you don't want to bury anything under layers of paint.
For assembly, I do something that sounds counter productive but has worked so far. I use just a dot of white glue to attach the part. My logic is that I'd rather have the whole thing break loose from the model instead of snapping a blade.
Mike is located on the east coast of the US. If that is normally an issue for you, bite the bullet and order anyway. You'll understand when your package arrives. :yep:
Recommended highly as long as you have experience working with small parts, resin, and a fair collection of modeling tools.
Slightly off the beaten path models:
:D
I'm including two web sites from north eastern Pennsylvania that I've found but have not ordered from (yet). Both offer kits you may have heard of but never seen. Two nice sources that are physically located within a stone's throw from each other. :hmm2: If you're tired of building Tamiya and Revell "same old same old" kits, grab a cup of coffee and settle back for some deep dives of kits you never expected to find.
https://redstarhobbies.com/
Red Star offers model kits based on a theme. Models made in Russia or Eastern Europe and models of old Soviet hardware. :ping: I've mentioned Red Star in the Delta IV thread. Be ready to spend some time paging through what they have on the shelves. They offer a very solid selection of Eduard photo etch and resin that stays in stock. :yeah:
^ I see only a picture of some racing car a jpg picture in your last link.
Markus
I removed that link. :oops:
I tried to place an order and something smelled fishy. :hmmm:
Thank you...well there are some rotten tomatoes among the good hobby stores and either you hear about them on a forum-Like I did now or you get the experience yourself
Markus
What I wanted was this kit:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmeuEwsrbik
That Beemax/nunu Porsche 935 K3 has been tough to find in the US.
This does bring up where you buy your kits and supplies, however.
If you have a local hobby shop, by all means support them. :up:
If you've found a good on-line source and you can trust them, work with that.
If you find a sketchy web store, its usually best to move along.
Amazon and EBay- I mostly use them to get a good handle on what kits and supplies are available and what they are worth. :yep: Both can have their downsides. I still don't understand the EBay idea of bidding on everything.:hmph: Likewise, Amazon seems to embrace the context that EVERYTHING MUST GO!! Discounts are fine but they are also a quick way to totally gut the hobby. If a manufacturer is willing to take a hit on their bottom line just to clear out some stock, what are you really buying? :hmmm:
I do this stuff as a hobby. I expect to pay some kind of premium to get the stuff I want. I don't mind paying for quality as long as I'm not getting ripped off and its something I really want to build.
With the Beemax Porsche kit, I wanted to build it at some point but it wasn't an obsession and I knew availability in the US was the tough part. Seeing it on the web site I later removed just let me know that the kit was available again but then things got sketchy really fast and I bailed out.
I checked on Amazon to figure out what was going on and found it available from a Japanese source for about $60 including shipping. :hmmm:
Due to the availability issues with this kit, I figured now (when I knew I could order it) would be the right time and it should be showing up sometime before the end of the month. :yeah:
Meanwhile, a couple of new sources. :Kaleun_Wink:
This post concentrates on Indycars, F1, and sportscars in 1/20th and 1/24th scale.
These links are meant more for advanced builders who want to wander off the reservation a bit and build something really different. The links look good as far as I can tell, BUT I haven't ordered from them. Pay attention to stuff like billing and shipping, if its starting to feel like you're giving money to a guy in a van in a parking garage- you'll probably want to move along. :03:
https://classicracingresins.com/products/
This guy posts his builds on YouTube and also sells resin parts. Located "somewhere in the US" he also seems to provide Int'l billing and shipping.
https://indycals.net/
Located near Indianapolis, the concentration is on cars that ran at the Speedway. However, also a nice concentration on F1, sportscars, rally, etc. "Everything but NASCAR". :03:
Not the typical decals you may know. These are printed "as needed" on a solid sheet of clear decal paper. So, plan ahead for some lead time as your decals get printed and then shipped. Plan, as well, to do some fancy cutting once they arrive. :up:
EDIT- Updates the URL for Classic Racing Resins. :D Keep an eye out for more info and a short review once my mail gets delivered.
Here is a model of an Old classic car from 1924 and you get two famous comedian with the models.
Looking at the face of these two made me recall another thread here about faces and colours.
https://www.infinitestatue.com/gb/statues-of-cinema-famous-cars/135-model-t-with-laurel-hardy-112-resin-model-kit.html
Here's a guy talking and doing some modelling of the model
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxC4_otOJpg
Markus
Some of the more advanced things you'll want on hand. :up:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HLJ97J6?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JB7HFGZ?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
Having a good assortment of miniature machine and self-tapping screws on the shelf can save your more ambitious projects. Fixing die-casts is obvious but there are times (scratch building, control panels, lighting, dioramas, etc.) when you don't want to reach for a glue gun or a tube of super glue.
This is the best way to stick two things together that have never been stuck together before. Its also cheaper in the long run than buying old watches on EBay and stripping them down for parts.
:Kaleun_Cheers:
Something that just showed up and looks very promising:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU99K6E?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
These are 6" X 9" self stick mirrors made of Mylar and bonded to clear (rigid ) plastic.
There's a peel off backing on the glue side and another to protect the clear plastic from scratches.
The mirrors look like the real thing. :yeah:
The only downside is the clear plastic is slightly thick (about 1 mm) but it gives a very accurate look for larger scale projects ( probably 1/18th scale at the smallest to 1/8th scale cars and bikes).
To use them, just transfer the pattern of your mirror to the sheet and cut it out using sharp scissors. The edge can then be sanded smooth and you can then use a black or green Sharpie pen or acrylic paint to add some extra detail. Very easy to handle besides the backing and protection sheets.
So, why is it a big deal? This stuff looks like a flat mirror, not some Mylar tape or chromed plastic. :D You get a more pronounced 3D effect plus a fairly sharp mirror image. Like I said before, for larger scale projects this stuff is a no-brainer. :yeah:
The "self stick" part is my only real concern. Its a tacky glue that may not hold up over time, but it can be removed carefully using salad oil and a rag.
A little expensive for what they are but at least you don't have to buy 20 square yards of material to get a 2 inch piece. The three 6" X 9" sheets should last a long time in your scratch building drawer.
Edit- They would also be great for building a custom display base.
Before I forget again:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FWZNCWJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Fixed cleats for your modern 1/350th scale submarines. :rock:
If you've ever built the Hobby Boss 688 family of kits, you know how much of a pain it is to glue the plastic fixed cleats in place. This is 100 times easier. :up:
You'll need a fine metal file, a small pair of strong nippers, a pin vise and micro drill bits and six shirt pins. Drill out the mounting holes on the hull using a 74 gauge/ 0.0225 drill bit. Using your pin vise handle, chuck up a shirt pin so its easier to work on. Cut two opposite sides of the head of the shirt pin so it starts to look like a US football. File and sand to get the final shape. Trim off the point of the shirt pin, leaving most of the pin intact.
Stick the pin in one of your drilled holes on the hull then add a dot glue to the pin before you position it, then paint. :yeah:
Shirt pins have hundreds of uses in modeling, from adding strength to delicate/fiddly assemblies to adding antennas to model cars, you can even use the cleat trick to make a nifty removeable air cleaner on the engine of your model car.
This resource is specialized for die-cast models and is also "US Only".
It happens, you buy a die cast car and that "factory finish" got some shipping/packaging rash or an Oops happened and you wound up with a paint ding.
:k_confused:
Fixing it, as long as it isn't metallic paint, is pretty straight forward. Just find some paint that matches your die-cast and get ready to do some polishing. Getting that paint to match can be tricky, however.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/mbiauto?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11400.m43.l10174&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=899094e54fdb426385c8accc01f4f073&bu=45606310356&exe=0&ext=0&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20220620113433&segname=11400&ul_noapp=true
Or, search for MBIAUTO.com.
:D
MBI is located near Grand Rapids, Mi. and specializes in auto paint. They are also handy if your 1/1th scale ride has suffered some rock chips and you want to fix it in your garage. Their main page on EBay has a really handy drop-down menu to verify your paint code and if you can find it, they can mix it. You can also buy quarts and gallons if you're planning something more ambitious.
:Kaleun_Wink:
I haven't included you folks who build styrene plastic models, yet. My two 1 oz. bottles of paint ( packed in a 2 oz. plastic bottle with a small brush built into the cap ) showed up today (Thursday) after placing the order on EBay on Monday, so order and turn-around time to the Mid West is fast. I haven't opened the bottles yet, but a sniff test tells me this stuff is an enamel rather than a "hotter" lacquer. I'll test some on some styrene later and update this post if it works. I paid $8 US for each 1 oz. bottle of paint, shipping included. Not exactly cheap ( by hobby paint standards ) but its better than taking your chances at WalMart or Auto Zone or Hobby Lobby. :03:
But does the new paint match? :hmmm:
This is trickier than than you might guess. That die-cast car you bought may claim to use "authentic" colors, but if it was assembled somewhere in Asia, what did they really use? Well, there's only one way to find out and at least you'll be somewhere in the ball park.
I ordered two bottles, Torch Red ( Ford paint code D3 ) for the Mustang that donated some parts to the Shelby GT 350 ( I need to fix some "package rash" on a front fender and to fill in the spots where the shock tower brace used to sit) and Performance White (paint code HP ) for the Shelby to fix some flaws and some minor cracking/peeling between the body and the (plastic) aero skirts.
More, later. :up:
Update- So far, the results are .. OK? :hmmm:
The bottles are shipped with a wrapping of packaging tape around them. A good solution for shipping paint but a total pain in the :arrgh!: to remove.
This stuff is definitely a thick enamel with a vague whiff of Alkyd based paint. It isn't Plasticote :doh: but its close. Thinning it down might be tricky (definitely check with MBI before you start throwing hobby-based reducer/thinner at it) and I would think a LOT before pouring it in a good airbrush. Still.. :hmmm:
Coverage is good for an enamel and I found a test mule in an old AMT truck kit that was a parts donor to test this paint directly on styrene plastic. This kit was one of the "old school" truck re-issues with the harder white plastic. I applied a fairly thick wad of the Performance White with the included brush and things look.. OK? so far. :up: No signs of the plastic reacting or going soft but I did notice the paint acting a little weird and "pitting" in some small spots. More than likely, its due to some surface contamination on the plastic (I didn't clean or prep the part and its been sitting out in the open for several years) or its just the nature of the built-in brush. This stuff does act like an old-school thick enamel so plan on the standard long drying and curing time (days and weeks for a full cure). If you're familiar with the term "out gassing", you have a pretty good handle on what this stuff is. :03:
Color matching- The Performance White isn't a perfect match on the Shelby. From a distance it looks fine but up-close the paint looks more like a Wimbledon (canvas) white than a pure white. There are defiantly some slight gray and tan tones in the new paint. Which one is right? Who knows?? Its defiantly a closer match to the Wimbledon white on my 1969 "Shinoda" Boss 302 Mustang die cast, which is immaculate, so I won't be testing it further.
My gut told me when I first got the Shelby that the paint was more of a "pure" white than a "Ford" white so I'll probably have more luck if I march into the hardware store. :O: :har:
The Torch Red on the Greenlight Mustang is freaking perfect, so go figure.. :haha: :yeah:
So, pluses- Relatively cheap and I'll give MBI the nod on color matching paint codes. Fast, free delivery when ordered from EBay. If this stuff turns into a rock while its sitting on the shelf, don't sweat it. Just order another bottle. Will probably respond well to polishing compounds and buffing once its fully cured. This paint is very handy for what it is, as long as you know what you're getting into. Doesn't seem to react badly to the harder grades of styrene plastic, but I would always test it prior to use.
Minuses- I wouldn't get this stuff within one city block of your fancy airbrush unless you really hate yourself. This isn't acrylic or hobby grade enamel, its more like a thick alkyd-based no-shirt paint. Even if you thin it down, its still going to act like glue until it dries and then you'll be totally screwed. Full drying and curing time is probably measured in weeks, so don't be in a hurry.
For brushes, think "disposable". :yep: From my experience, forget about thinning this stuff down to "like milk", the pigment will start to break down long before you get there.
So, "recommended" for us gray hairs or if you're new and want to experience the "good old days" of throwing enamel paint. :doh:
Seriously, not recommended if you know only the current types of model paint. Recommended strongly for the advanced builder/collector (us old farts) who want accurate colors, forget ever having to say "Its supposed to be Hugger Blue, that isn't Hugger Blue!". :D For the model car builders, know what you're getting into. This stuff is a pain to lay down, it takes forever to cure, and you're going to invest a lot of time in polishing and buffing it out. But at least the colors and the finish will be accurate. :up:
Another fun EBay link I recently found for you car and truck builders:
https://www.ebay.com/usr/modelcars.de?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2559
Modelcars.de is located in Germany near Mannheim and they make and sell decals. All kinds of decals in many of the popular scales (1/10th, 1/18th, 1/24th, 1/32nd, 1/43rd, you get the idea). :rock: If you check the link, make sure to click the SEE ALL ITEMS button and you'll understand why you'll want to save their address. :D
This is one of those times when being patient pays off. :yeah: About eight or nine years ago, I bought a Welly 1/18th scale 1972 Trans Am and detailed the snot out of it. It turned out great but the sidewalls of the tires were blank. Thanks to the link above, I can finally finish the project. :D I found a sheet of decals that included "popular tire brand from the seventies" Radial T/A outline lettering in white. Perfect for this car. :rock:
I'm in the middle of a long term test, BTW. I'm trying out a method of placing tire decals on different types of tire compounds. Everything from rubber based kit and die-cast tires to vinyl based tires. This isn't about short term looks, its about decals which will hold up for years.
I start out brushing isopropyl alcohol on the tire sidewall to clean off any contamination and let it dry. Next, I brush on a thin coat of AK Satin Varnish to seal the sidewall and give the decal something to grip. After that dries, I brush on some Micro Sol and apply the decal then give it a dousing of Micro Set to soften the decal backing. Once the Set has done its job, I apply another thin layer or two of the varnish to seal the decal in place. The AK varnish is very thin, which is why I like it for this project. If I don't update this post for another five years, I guess that means it worked. :D
One small update- Results with the tire decals look good so far, but if you're working with vinyl tires you'll have a tough time with aqueous (water based) varnish. Instead, I used good old Testor's Dull Cote. The lacquer solvents in Dull Cote also act like a decal setting solution.
A good link for paint. :yeah:
https://mcwfinishes.com/
MCW Finishes specializes in hobby enamel and lacquer paints.
Their paints are sold pre-thinned for airbrush use and their catalogue is pretty deep. :o
While MCW is building a solid rep with the car modelers (their paints are starting to get some traction in hobby stores), they also cater to many military and electric train subjects. :up: So, don't assume they're just a source for building street stocks and rat rods.
MCW is located in Massillon, Ohio and you can check their web site for business hours. Direct-order prices are fair and service is fast if you're in the US (six days from placing an order to delivery in my case). While I'm starting to see some buzz about their paint in the UK, I'm not sure how much of a hassle it would be for them to ship individual orders globally. US shipping is slightly high, but these are bottles of paint after all.
Overall, MCW is a good source for hobby paint but their pros and cons tend to be the same. :doh:
The paint is pre-thinned for airbrush use. While its not that big of a gripe, it would be nice if they offered a more universal formula, especially in enamels.
Their product line is currently.. freakin' HUGE. :o
This is great when it comes to finding the right colors and finishes, just be ready to spend some time in actually finding them (the spy glass on their header opens a search function, which you WILL need). If you're looking for a specific color name or paint code, write it down so you won't forget it while you search. While they also provide sub-categories based on common uses such as auto manufacturers, expect a long slog to find what you want (but you will probably find it). For now, I'm treating their paints like Tamiya so don't forget stuff like thinner, cleaner, and retarder if you're getting fancy. :03:
So, anyway, I had a couple of small repair projects for some 1/18th scale die casts- a '64 Mustang and a '66 GTO- both wearing metallic dark maroon. I went with a 1 oz. bottle of lacquer color matched to the Ford, if there is a difference to these colors I can't see it. Like I wrote earlier, the paint showed up six days after I placed the order and I paid a little less than $20 for a 1 oz. bottle plus S&H. Not too bad in terms of convivence.
The paint is packed in a 1 oz. glass bottle with a metal cap. I can also hear a small agitator inside the bottle when I shake it. :up:
Application was a bit off-the-path for you airbrush snobs. :O: I used a small sharpened toothpick to flow the paint into the small chips and scratches. Color matching and metal flake is really good and the paint dried quickly. I'll give it a day or two before I buff and polish the repair spots. :yeah: MCW also provides some really good instructions on how to use their paints.
So, what's the difference between MCW and the last paint company I wrote about? MCW is hobby based. With die-casts, especially in 1/18th scale, its a bit of a "push" if you use hobby paints or paints made for the genuine article. This gave me a good excuse to try both. :D
MCW paint is highly recommended for hobbyists in North America. What you get is first-rate and realize that shipping is high due to the product. For users "off the continent", its top quality stuff but be ready for some headaches in terms of shipping- or bug the heck out of your favorite hobby shop. :yeah:
Will MCW take over Testor's old turf? Well, we could do a lot worse. :yep:
Maybe not the right place to put it-But here you will need all the Modeling resources you can get.
It's huge Box size : 106 x 54 x 36cm
https://www.1001hobbies.com/135-scale-military-models/435973-glow2b-modellbau-1539999-dora-railway-gun-limited-edition--4250580500032.html
Markus
zomeguy
10-01-22, 05:19 PM
Id like to throw my name in the hat here, just started a store with a friend a few months ago. We've got a ton of paints on the way and I've got some tools in stock already. I was really into the Bandai kits but after a few months of hardly being able to get my hands on any Bandai I decided to dip my toes into Tamiya Models and I'm hooked. If there's anything specific you'd like me to stock I can get it for you, just send me a message.
Name of the company is BitsandBobsToyShop and we're online only and Colorado based. We aren't doing any international shipping yet unless I can find out a way to get the shipping costs down. What is the preferred model scale for planes because I would like to start stocking them after having done my very first BF-109 @ 1:48 scale.
Aktungbby
10-01-22, 07:32 PM
zomeguy!:Kaleun_Salute:
A new link, and tied closely to world events. :salute:
https://plastic-models-store.com/
I've been a fan of Ukrainian model producers for many years. Its always a gas when you check out some new companies you've never heard of and find out they produce "unobtainium" kits of off the wall subjects.
Mikro-Mir is a favorite. They produce 1/350th scale submarine kits that no one else has considered. :arrgh!: Not necessarily made for new builders, but if you hang around with other modelers and you want to see their jaws hit the floor, Mikro-Mir is worth checking out. :yeah:
Meanwhile...an update. :D
I was paging through their Mikro-Mir kits and found
https://plastic-models-store.com/plastic-boat-and-submarine-model-kits/submarine-model-kits/mikro-mir-144-030-1144-ssn-sturgeon-scale-plastic-model-kit
Its the short hull Sturgeon class (as opposed to the later "stretch" hull) AND its in 1/144th scale. :yeah:
Ohhhhh, snap. :o This is just too large for my display space and I really wish it was a later Stretch hull but... I think one of them will be getting shipped to Iowa. :yep: I just hope Mulsanne Mike is going to produce a resin screw. I can already see this kit getting the old Pearl Harbor Shipyard paint colors of Insignia Red, "Eggplant" purple, and semi gloss black.
:Kaleun_Salivating:
FUBAR295
12-23-22, 12:50 PM
Come arcross this yesterday, but some of you may know this already but will redo again.
Dougie Martindale has release to Uboat Achieve his collection of Ubout modeling articles. It has extensive research and construction details of Uboats.
https://www.uboatarchive.net/Modeling/Articles.htm
If this is something well known, then sorry for reposting.
Good hunting,
FUBAR295
No way, this is what the Resources thread is for.
:Kaleun_Cheers:
FUBAR295
12-25-22, 03:21 PM
^^^
:Kaleun_Salute:
Something I just found (US). :D
https://www.ebay.com/str/texas3dcutsoms?_pgn=1
Texas 3D has a pretty nice selection of printed resin engines and bits for 1/32nd, 1/25th and 1/24th scale to 1/18th scale models. "Printed Resin" meaning you will need super glue (CA) or epoxy for assembly. For the more adventurous builders, you'll also want a set of micro drills and brass or alum. rods or tubing to pin the parts together and make the glue bonds stronger.
Make note of the modern diesel engines for semi trucks. :D
:Kaleun_Thumbs_Up:
Just a quick update. Check each item for the scales that can be ordered. Many of them are available from 1/32nd scale up to 1/8th scale. (Oh, Marcus...) :yep::up:
If you're looking for something different to build, how about just a 1/8th scale Offy racing engine? :shucks:
Something I just found (US). :D
https://www.ebay.com/str/texas3dcutsoms?_pgn=1
Texas 3D has a pretty nice selection of printed resin engines and bits for 1/32nd, 1/25th and 1/24th scale to 1/18th scale models. "Printed Resin" meaning you will need super glue (CA) or epoxy for assembly. For the more adventurous builders, you'll also want a set of micro drills and brass or alum. rods or tubing to pin the parts together and make the glue bonds stronger.
Make note of the modern diesel engines for semi trucks. :D
:Kaleun_Thumbs_Up:
Just a quick update. Check each item for the scales that can be ordered. Many of them are available from 1/32nd scale up to 1/8th scale. (Oh, Marcus...) :yep::up:
If you're looking for something different to build, how about just a 1/8th scale Offy racing engine? :shucks:
1/8 scale engine you said.
Here is my Engine build to Agora's Porsche 917KH
https://i.imgur.com/0iQt6KKm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZKWXWGNm.jpg
Oh man connecting these plug lead (orange is a pain in the monkey)
Markus
Marcus;
Meanwhile, uh-oh. :D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNiZmZyE4SI
This looks like a lot of fun, but I would have no where to park it. :k_confused:
BTW, keep that addy for Texas 3D handy. I know you were building a large Firebird. :up:
Marcus;
Meanwhile, uh-oh. :D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNiZmZyE4SI
This looks like a lot of fun, but I would have no where to park it. :k_confused:
BTW, keep that addy for Texas 3D handy. I know you were building a large Firebird. :up:
I'm in construction of a Pontiac Firebird in 1/8 scale. This is currently on hold await some spray colour-It's primer I need, have blue metallic and black silk math.
It's the same spray colour you use on your car.
I have this Volvo on my list of things to buy
And another thing-Could not find the engine to my Pontiac Firebird
Markus
Well, not wanting to put a "hex" on your build, but any of the GM-based V8's could donate parts if you needed them. :03:
For example, if your cat takes a fancy to one of the smaller parts... :Kaleun_Mad:
Or, maybe down the road you might want to swap engines for something a little more updated? The GM LS1 V-8 is a very popular "crate engine" that can run on modern pump gas, has fuel injection instead of a carb, programmable ECU, better fuel economy and emissions, etc. and many classic cars are getting them installed. :hmmm:
OK, I'm not sure about this one- yet. :hmmm:
https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/
You'll want to check out their paint, specifically their chrome finish paints. :o
They have stuff like chrome, mirror chrome, gold tones, copper, etc.
For both airbrush and regular brush painting. :o
This paint is alcohol based acrylic, but unlike chrome inks like Molotow, this stuff will cure and be as durable as regular acrylic paints. :o
Unless you've already tried it (and PLEASE sing out if you have!), you're probably thinking the same as me. "No way! It sounds too good to be true!" :timeout:
GSW is located in Spain, so shipping for most of us might be a bear BUT their prices are very tempting. A bottle (think the small squeeze bottles like AK uses) of brush-on mirror chrome runs about $4 (US). :hmmm:
Its also available on EBay if you're nervous about ordering direct.
IF this works as advertised, it would be a game changer. :yep:
-Model cars and trucks. Everything from realistic mirrors and wheels to chrome ... well, anything. :D
-Aircraft. Landing gear struts, landing and nav lights, etc.
-Armor. Hydraulic cylinders, headlight buckets, etc.
-Figures (pay attention, Eich!). Remember they also have polished brass and bronze. You can also "cool down" the chrome effect by over-coating with gloss or matte clear.
So, I'm going to place an order just to play around with this stuff. A gloss black undercoat might work best but I'm interested to see what this stuff does over gloss, satin matte, and even full matte colors like white or gray. :D
OK, its been a while so here's a new one:
https://icemancollections.com/
These are resin 3D printed parts to full body kits. It looks like everything is US based and 1/24 to 1/25th scale. Lots of possibilities here, from diorama parts and pieces to engine kits to batteries, turbos, and carbs. :yeah:
A couple of items I spotted were the 1/25th scale spray paint cans for dioramas and the "Tommy and Cheech" figures (seated or standing). :D
Lots of items to take your 1/25th scale build to a higher level. :up:
OK, I'm not sure about this one- yet. :hmmm:
https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/
You'll want to check out their paint, specifically their chrome finish paints. :o
They have stuff like chrome, mirror chrome, gold tones, copper, etc.
For both airbrush and regular brush painting. :o
This paint is alcohol based acrylic, but unlike chrome inks like Molotow, this stuff will cure and be as durable as regular acrylic paints. :o
Unless you've already tried it (and PLEASE sing out if you have!), you're probably thinking the same as me. "No way! It sounds too good to be true!" :timeout:
GSW is located in Spain, so shipping for most of us might be a bear BUT their prices are very tempting. A bottle (think the small squeeze bottles like AK uses) of brush-on mirror chrome runs about $4 (US). :hmmm:
Its also available on EBay if you're nervous about ordering direct.
IF this works as advertised, it would be a game changer. :yep:
-Model cars and trucks. Everything from realistic mirrors and wheels to chrome ... well, anything. :D
-Aircraft. Landing gear struts, landing and nav lights, etc.
-Armor. Hydraulic cylinders, headlight buckets, etc.
-Figures (pay attention, Eich!). Remember they also have polished brass and bronze. You can also "cool down" the chrome effect by over-coating with gloss or matte clear.
So, I'm going to place an order just to play around with this stuff. A gloss black undercoat might work best but I'm interested to see what this stuff does over gloss, satin matte, and even full matte colors like white or gray. :D
I guess its time to update this post. :oops:
To be honest, I intended to order some of this paint to try it out but I got busy on other stuff and time started to slide.
:Kaleun_Cheers:
I have a couple of projects on the bench where I need to add some bright metal finishes and figured that now would be a good time to get some of this stuff on order to see how it works.
I didn't order direct from GSW but from a supplier on EBay. What I got was GSW's Chrome Metal Paints set. This set contains six different metal colors in 17 ml "eyedropper" plastic bottles. Think Vallejo acrylics and you'll know exactly how this stuff is packaged. Each bottle contains a ball bearing shaker which is a nice touch. :up:
In the set you'll find:
- Chrome Metal (2454). A slightly deeper (more mellow) chrome than electroplated kit chrome.
- Tin Plate Chrome Metal (3693). This one is interesting. I was expecting something close to Tamiya's Titanium Gold but its more like a 50/50 mix of chrome silver and gold. If you build car and racing bike kits, you'll want this on your shelf. :up:
- Gold Chrome Metal (3691). A slightly darker/mellower gold than most model paints but quite shiny.
- Antique Gold Chrome (3692). A darker shade than the gold above.
- Bronze Chrome (3690). A darker shade of bronze than I expected. Its more like polished antique bronze but it is quite shiny. Ship and Sub modelers may want to check this one out. :yep:
- Copper Chrome (3694). Continuing the theme, a darker tone of copper. Like old house wiring.
So, how does it lay down? For my first trial of this stuff, I wanted to torture it a bit. :) I used a soft small chisel brush and painted it over bare white and black plastic and white resin. I'm not bothering with primer because I want to see how sturdy it is when dry. I'm also not using an airbrush because most of these chrome paints work better when thick and everyone who has an airbrush mixes their stuff differently. :O:
One result that surprised me was background color. The silver chrome looks better over white plastic than black plastic. :hmmm: I'm thinking this will be true for all of the colors in the set.
The paint is really easy to work with. It is alcohol-based acrylic so don't expect any major revelations or nasty surprises. Brush cleanup was normal. I just cleaned my brush under warm tap water and the bristles came out clean with no dyes or clumps of paint. Drying time is pretty standard for acrylics. I gave it 45 minutes and it was "touch dry", I'm guessing 6 hours for full cure time. It is fairly sturdy although I have already tried a buffing test with a cotton swab (bud) and the finish matted down like I thought (this stuff is not meant to be polished, rather you get one shot to get that bright, shiny finish).
Brush painting- Its acrylic, no magic or high tech wizardry. It lays down nicely until the paint starts to gel and you wind up with some heavy brush marks. One thing I'd like to try is adding a couple drops of Tamiya Acrylic Retarder to see if it makes the flow better and levels the paint before it sets. :hmmm:
Air brushing- You're on your own, I didn't buy this stuff to shoot it in a fine mist. If I had to guess, you won't get a mirror finish if you shoot it, unless you really flood it on. What you should get is a nice polished metal look but don't expect a mirror finish. Knocking this stuff down with thinner probably won't help.
Standouts- Hands down, the Silver Chrome. :yeah: This stuff is the bomb for painting headlight and tail light reflector buckets as long as they're small. Anything bigger than 1-2 cm and things will start to get wavy. This is also a good way to repair "kit chrome" if the cut-off nib is showing. The Tinplate Chrome should be a good stand-in for Tamiya Titanium Gold so if you're building anything "racing" or a motorcycle, you'll want to check it out. The Bronze Chrome shows a lot of promise for ship models if you want a "just out of the shipyard" look. I want to try painting some screws with it and maybe try a white or green/brown weathering wash after the bronze fully cures. :hmmm:
The price point is also pretty good however, GSW needs better distribution. The full set of paints might be over-kill but I wanted to look at the full range. GSW also sells single bottles. :up: It should be noted that these paints look better (IMO) over a gloss white under coat. This wasn't what I expected so I tried painting some clear plastic with the Silver Chrome to see what was going on below the finished surface. The bottom layer was either a very dark gray or metallic black. :o
So, its recommended because it does what it says. :up:
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