Dragon Models 1/350 Ohio class submarine w/ launching missile build

[Onkel Neal]

I'm going to start this thread for my Ohio class, I have just started and will add updates here.


https://www.kingkit.co.uk/uploads/shop/large/PB200456.JPG

Scope: I want to build it out and include a launched missile with LED lights, exhaust cloud, and missile sound.
I got the idea for the exhaust cloud and LED lights from this guy and this other guy. I want to add to that by
having my lights flicker and having a rocket launching sound fx to go with it.

https://youtu.be/L6oEsca3ZY8?t=464

https://youtu.be/ATKUT4eNL6E


Wish me luck!

[Onkel Neal]

Yeah, I have color confusion on the Ohio, I guess I am supposed to mix three paints for the hull? :doh: That's a first for me.

[ET2SN]

Neal;

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ItkAAOSwf-VWXfb0/s-l500.jpg

https://web4.hobbylinc.com/gr/tes/tes1705.jpg

Trust me. :yep:

Insignia Red. Testor's enamel if you can find it. I verified the color by holding color samples next to a hull. :Kaleun_Wink:
There aren't too many benefits to pulling shipyard duty, so you take what you can get. :up:

For bonus points, lay down a base coat of medium to dark gray primer then follow up with some full coats of *straight* Insignia Red.

[mapuc]

Yeah, I have color confusion on the Ohio, I guess I am supposed to mix three paints for the hull? :doh: That's a first for me.


Mixing different colour isn't so difficult if you have the right tool for it.
Here are some of these tools from a Danish hobby page

https://www.scanhobby-webshop.dk/shop/pipettesaet-3x-lang-8979p.html

Then you need this

https://www.scanhobby-webshop.dk/shop/mixing-cups-15-8766p.html

Edit
Forgot something-Sometimes another colour producer has the colour you need.
Like ET2SN proposal-I don't know how close the colour is to the real thing and I don't know how exactly you want this red colour shall be.
End edit

Markus

[Onkel Neal]

thanks, guys, with your help.

[mapuc]

1. Do not rush
2. Take one step at the time
3. Don't hesitate to ask-There ain't things like stupid question when it comes to hobbies.
4. There's lots of model builder expert on yt. Pick one and only one or you will get confused, 'cause their method may be different.

Markus

[ET2SN]

1. Do not rush

Markus

Preach it, my brother. :D

Build the special effects stuff first as a "prototype" to make sure it will work and that you like the effect before you commit to adding it to your kit.

I'm convinced most of those YouTube models only have to last until they upload the video. :03: Besides, its not like the good old days when all you had to do was go to a hobby store or dept. store and find stacks of this kit on the shelf.

Oh, before I forget. If you plan to build it with a couple of tubes open, but not launched, the tube caps look really good painted in an old Mopar color called "(Go) Man,go" orange. :up: You could also paint them a plastic-looking industrial blue. The black paint is also easy, if you can find it. I swear by "black chrome trim" paint. Just the right amount of matte and gloss but remember to add some contrast to areas like non-skid. If you REALLY want to go crazy, find some photo etch to add hood pins to a 1/24th-25th car kit. The "plate" that gets attached to the hood of the car makes a great stand-in for main and aux sea water inlets and outlets.

Good luck and steady fingers. :Kaleun_Cheers:

[mapuc]

Preach it, my brother. :D

Build the special effects stuff first as a "prototype" to make sure it will work and that you like the effect before you commit to adding it to your kit.

I'm convinced most of those YouTube models only have to last until they upload the video. :03: Besides, its not like the good old days when all you had to do was go to a hobby store or dept. store and find stacks of this kit on the shelf.

Good luck and steady fingers. :Kaleun_Cheers:

Came to think of this model builder I follow on yt he is..well see for you self
His name is Nigel
The video I link to is part 11 of his Lancaster 1:48 build.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7OIfDakyF0

Markus

[ET2SN]

I like Nigel, but he really needs to learn how to work with a script. :haha: :O:

[mapuc]

I like Nigel, but he really needs to learn how to work with a script. :haha: :O:

Off topic comment

Do you follow his livestream build of the 1:32 Lancaster ?
next episode Monday 18th April

End of an off topic comment

Markus

[ET2SN]

I only follow his channel for Jess the terrier. :O:

Seriously, I would love to sit down with Nigel over some beers to talk about the the B-52. :up:

[Onkel Neal]

Yes, agreed, I am setting up the missile launch FX to be detachable as well.

I drilled out the hole where the original stand goes and through a missile tube for the wiring.

I'll use a piece of sprue for the missile support.

[Onkel Neal]

Got the hull together and finally gotten all the little missile hatches assembled, nerve-wracking business.

Next, will put the shellback and hatches on the hull and primer, fix any bad seams or putty issues (my bane) and paint.

Meanwhile, I've got the sound module and LED set up. Found a few rocket launching, missile launched mp3s, will mix them for the prefect sound fx.

Also started working on the base.

[ET2SN]

Hey Neal, before I forget again:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/mulsannemike/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=


Grab a couple of screws for your boomer. :up:

Very detailed, very accurate, but very delicate (which is why you'll want two).

[Onkel Neal]

Yeah!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265527925502?hash=item3dd2b29afe:g:6TwAAOSwxlJfaqI v

ordered :Kaleun_Thumbs_Up:

[Onkel Neal]

Right now I'm stuck trying to eliminate the seam where the two hull halves meet. About ready to say good enough and start painting. How much time do you spend on seams? I've tried AK grey putty, Tamiya white putty, Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer, and adding super thin cement to flush the two surfaces. Still, after I add a coat of primer, there's the seam.

[ET2SN]

Yeah!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265527925502?hash=item3dd2b29afe:g:6TwAAOSwxlJfaqI v

ordered :Kaleun_Thumbs_Up:



:D :up:

[mapuc]

If I one day should be a owner of a 3D printer I'm most likely going to build this model

https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/other/u-boot-typ-viid-3d-print

Markus

[Onkel Neal]

Back on the Ohio, well, the base and missile launch setup, not the model (yet).

I took a Stanley 100-pack razor box. modified it a bit, drilled a hole and added my launch button. It will be attached to a wooden base, where the sound module, speaker, and batteries will be.

Next, work on the seam some more and then start painting and assembling the model to the base.

[Onkel Neal]

Tested the circuits and switch, worked great. So, installed everything in the base and added a 1/8" plexiglass cover to hold it in place.

Now, just need to paint the sub, mount everything, and then start working on the missile mount and smoke.

[ET2SN]

Is it too late to add a key switch (and key) as the main power switch?
:Kaleun_Smile:

All kidding aside, its looking good. :up:

[Onkel Neal]

Lol, good idea!

[ET2SN]

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a11112200ux0536-Electric-Positions-Keylock/dp/B019I12414/ref=sr_1_14?crid=1R1N9YCFSWA46&keywords=key+type+electrical+switch&qid=1652382734&sprefix=key+type+electrical+switch%2Caps%2C289&sr=8-14


:Kaleun_Wink:


BTW, remember to order a lanyard to go around your neck for one key or Gene Hackman might get very angry. :D

[Onkel Neal]

I'll have to do that on my next missile launch model, I didn't leave myself room on the console.

[Onkel Neal]

Well, I went around the whole sub and sanded on the seam between the vertical scribed lines, hoping to diminish the seam without marring the lines too much.

https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=5217&d=1652446774

Reprimed the model last night, the seam still seems pretty evident. :wah::wah::wah:

https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=5218&d=1652446826

https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=5219&d=1652446832

Sigh. Any suggestions? Should I add filler along the entire line and sand? Wet sand? Move on and paint it?

[mapuc]

I say use a plastic filler with a colour as close as possible to the main colour on the sub.

Since it's only this small line that needs to be covered I say use a small spatula knife and use very little filler at each moment.

Let it dry and then sand with a toothbrush covered with sandpaper..Starting with low numbers and end with high numbers. low E.g 250/300. High E.g 900/1000.

It doesn't look beautiful this line going all the way around the sub. It somehow destroy the look of it. And you want your model look as realistic as possible.

I also recommend you use this tool after sanding

https://www.scalemodellingnow.com/hntools-revell-rivet-maker

Markus

[ET2SN]

On that kit, the seam is what builds character. :up: :doh:

I just looked at mine and something that always bugged me is the vertical scribed lines, there's way too many of them. :k_confused:

Anyway, have you considered brewing your own "sprue goo"? Get a fresh bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin glue then chop up all the sprues that came in the kit and add them to the bottle of glue. Keep adding sprue and stir up the goop until you get something with the consistency of putty. Use that as your filler and you won't have to deal with putty shrinking six months down the road or filler that dries harder than the plastic. :yep:

Another possibility is using Tamiya's white or gray primer in the square bottle. This is a fairly "hot" lacquer primer that has a consistency that's just short of Testor's tube glue. Make sure its fully cured before you start to sand it.

My other idea is to find Tamiya's plastic putty in the tube. I'm pretty sure this stuff is "sprue goo" made from white plastic. I had really good results using this stuff on the sleeper of an Italeri Peterbilt truck (these kits were infamous for having "short shots" in the plastic).

Anyway, keep calm and keep sanding. :yeah: Those vertical scribed lines in the hull still bug me and I'd suggest finding pictures of the real article to make sure they are there.

:Kaleun_Cheers:

[Onkel Neal]

All right, okay, thank for the constructive suggestions. I will keep working on the seam. Marcus, you're right, I think having that seem does ruin the look, so I will take the weekend off from modeling and pick up Monday.

I like your sprue glue idea, that sounds like fun just making it :D

[mapuc]

Do you have some extra model parts from this extra sub you bought ?

If so then practice either my recommendation or ET2SN recommendation

´cause it would be sad if your made mistake on your model.

Markus

[ET2SN]

that sounds like fun just making it :D

Just don't sniff it while its cooking. :doh: :Kaleun_Cheers:

[Onkel Neal]

So, received a new product that I have been told will help blend the seams, Mr Dissolved Putty. Applied it, will sand gingerly and reprime. Cross my fingers.

[fireftr18]

:Kaleun_Thumbs_Up:

Can't wait to see it.

[Jeff-Groves]

I'll offer a bit of advise if you don't mind.

Before you Glue section like that together? Bevel the outside edges a bit.
Then any filler will be easier to work with to hide the seam.

[Onkel Neal]

Bevel, huh? That makes sense.
Also had a guy tell me uses glue all around the seam when joining and depends on having some squeeze out, then scrapes/sands the joint flush. Have not tried that yet.

Back in the paint booth for the 3rd time, still seeing a seam :doh:

[mapuc]

Bevel, huh? That makes sense.
Also had a guy tell me uses glue all around the seam when joining and depends on having some squeeze out, then scrapes/sands the joint flush. Have not tried that yet.

Back in the paint booth for the 3rd time, still seeing a seam :doh:

We have a saying in Swedish

Alla sätt är bra, utom de dåliga. = All ways are good, except the bad ones.

Markus

[fireftr18]

All right, okay, thank for the constructive suggestions. I will keep working on the seam. Marcus, you're right, I think having that seem does ruin the look, so I will take the weekend off from modeling and pick up Monday.

I like your sprue glue idea, that sounds like fun just making it :D

I was told to use an older bottle of Tamiya extra thin. That way the glue level is lower and you can add more plastic.

[Onkel Neal]

I was told to use an older bottle of Tamiya extra thin. That way the glue level is lower and you can add more plastic.

Yeah, that makes sense, going to have to try that one my next model. My luck: the glue and plastic will all harden inside the bottle!


We have a saying in Swedish

Alla sätt är bra, utom de dåliga. = All ways are good, except the bad ones.

Markus

I think I'm learning that! By doing all the bad ways :wah:

I've had enough sanding, so I pushed ahead with taping it off (only Tamiya tape this time, thanks Markus!). I used Mission Models HULL RED ANTI FOULING NORFOLK 65A MMP-111 with a few drops of flat red added, and made sure to make enough to have some left over for touch up.

Thanksfully, no paint came off on the tape! :yeah:

Now I can finish painting the hatch insides and then gluing them into place, hopefully a nice neat pair of rows (they are just sitting in place currently, all crooked & haphazard-looking).

Then at last I can start on the missile smoke and lights! :arrgh!:

[ET2SN]

Don't forget your Sacrificial Anodes, AKA The Zincs. :timeout:

They are the gill-like lines just in front of the screw, between the stern planes and rudders.
Find your flattest aluminum paint and add maybe just a touch of flat white to really chalk them up. :yep: Zincs look old even when they are brand new. :up:

[ET2SN]

Oh, just some fine points to make note of:

Masts fairings and antennas- On older subs (pre-2005-ish) the fairing would be painted in flat sea gray with random (no two fairings are alike) flat black dots and shapes. The actual periscope barrels should be painted a light metallic gray or flat silver. The "head" of the scopes is coated with some special stuff, so feel free to go a little crazy. :D Try painting that area with NATO Black or a really dark flat gray. The very top of scopes should be either flat black or maybe "black chrome/plastic black". While this sounds like a lot of work, some slight color variations on your masts will really grab some attention. Radio antennas are really a translucent green plastic that ages to look like flat zinc chromate green or a very light version of olive drab.
The RADAR mast (like on your Virginia class kit) has a mostly silver mast area. The back of the array is flat black while the front is best painted in a dull silver/light metallic gray with a top coat of clear yellow (the array tends to yellow out as it ages).

Nav lights- Really small at this scale but they help the model to "pop". Go the extra mile and add a small dot of bright silver or chrome ( a Molotow chrome pen is really handy here) followed up with clear red, green, and gloss clear to simulate the glass. The SID beacon (don't worry, you don't have one) is ALWAYS clear orange. Make certain you know which bumps on the sail are the nav lights. :03: On your kit, the lights are the middle bumps on the sail above the fairwaters. The stern light is ALWAYS clear/white and always located on the top of the rudder.

:arrgh!::yeah:

[Onkel Neal]

I did not know you could make your own decals, which is going to be a life-saver! Half of the decals are shattering as soon as I try to coax them off the paper.

https://youtu.be/Xo5l4j5Wk_c

[ET2SN]

Ah, geez. This is a case of too little too late, but you ALWAYS want to have some Microscale Liquid Decal Film handy when dealing with old decals. :damn:




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RsK7titGdg

I wish I had thought about posting this earlier.
You're not completely lost, however. You can use the draft marker decals from any of the Hobby Boss 688 models. There are some minor differences but no one will notice them.

If you have most of the decals for your Ohio still on the paper, stop and get that bottle of Liquid Decal Film first. You could also try the old Testor's Decal Making Kit, you'll want the can of spray sealer.

Check on Amazon, Microscale sells a "three pack" of Micro Sol, Micro Set, and Micro Decal Film.

Again, sorry I didn't think about posting this earlier.

:Kaleun_Cheers:

BTW, don't concentrate too much on printing your own decals for the sub. You would NEED an "ALPS" style of printer that's capable of printing white ink at least at 800 DPI or finer. :doh: Trust me, you don't have one. Neither does any one in your town unless they own a specialty printing business.

[Onkel Neal]

Oh man, thanks! I'm glad there a solution (!) for this. I will try that before any further decal work on this model.

I was able to get some of the numbers to work, I will try to borrow some from one of my HobbyBoss kits.

Re: printing decals, I wonder if I take the his res file and decal paper to Office Depot, can they print it...?

[Cybermat47]

Gorgeous! :D

[ET2SN]

You'll need to ask first if they can print in white ink or lacquer.

If they say "Yes" and don't put you on hold for an hour, you'll also need to ask if they can print at 800-1,200 DPI.

I'm betting that they won't be able to do either. :03:

An ALPS type of printer is closer to an actual printing press where you can control the type and color of the ink. Brand new, they tend to be scary expensive because they are meant to run in a commercial environment.
Finding one that is Used is usually a dice throw. In a commercial environment, these things get beaten like a rented mule.

One thing you could try is to check the links I posted in the Resources thread. There's a guy listed who prints decals for racing cars. As I understand it, he found a decent ALPS printer and took the time to learn how to use and maintain it. :03:

One last thing, a lot of this comes down to economics. A kit maker may contact a commercial printer (ie, Cartograph) to produce a bulk order of decals for 20,000 or more kits. There's lead time and prep time involved, but the per-unit cost stays low.
Outside of those "bulk" numbers, things tend to get expensive. :03:

[Onkel Neal]

Today/tonight I plan to start the process of mating the sub to the base, hooking up the wires to the switch, and then making the missile cloud. That's going to involve wire, cotton, hot glue, LEDs, soldering, acrylic gel, and white glue. If that goes well :o, I should be done until I get the decal situation cleared up.

https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=5241&d=1653653769

[Onkel Neal]

Since the missile portion seems likely to make the model top-heavy, I'm extending the pegs on the plastic base, and adding some tabs to screw it down onto the wooden base, so any jiggling the switch is less likely to capsize the boat.


https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/picture.php?albumid=1389&pictureid=12535

https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/picture.php?albumid=1389&pictureid=12536

Decided to do some touch up painting, the Mission Models paint is really odd. It has a mottled look after handling. Maybe I should have let it dry longer? Well, after the touchup coats I followed up with 2 coats matt clear...
https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/picture.php?albumid=1389&pictureid=12538

https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/picture.php?albumid=1389&pictureid=12537



Finally, completed the electrical circuits!
https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/picture.php?albumid=1389&pictureid=12542

Testing different configs of smoke and glues. Looks like plain Elmer's white glue is the best.
https://www.subsim.com/radioroom/picture.php?albumid=1389&pictureid=12541

[Onkel Neal]

Complete except decals, waiting for a set from a LA class model.

https://youtu.be/Y3qcaYMxCFw

[mapuc]

COOL!!

You could say you had success with your idea

Markus

[ET2SN]

:yeah:

[Onkel Neal]

Thanks, now I need to find a place to put it. :shucks:

[fireftr18]

Awesome!!!
:Kaleun_Salute: :Kaleun_Thumbs_Up: :Kaleun_Cheers: :Kaleun_Wink: :Kaleun_Applaud:

[ET2SN]

Keeping in mind this boat hasn't completed Sea Trails yet:

https://www.subsim.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/navy.jpg


Notice the different colors on the masts. :up:

[Onkel Neal]

Yeah, that's a Virginia class, isn't it? They seem to have gone away from the leopard spot scheme.
https://americanhistory.si.edu/subs/const/anatomy/boomers/images/cutaway.jpg

[Onkel Neal]

I just learned there is such a thing as a light box, that's how to do it. Got one on order.

I'll add a few closeups.

[Onkel Neal]

Short demo on how this was done
https://youtu.be/CZzlqKuwBzY

[Onkel Neal]

Finally got some :Kaleun_Wink: additional decals to finish this one.

[ET2SN]

I guess I should mention:

https://spruebrothers.com/dml1056-1-350-dragon-uss-florida-ssgn-728/

Available and in stock.
Its there if you really, really want one. This version also includes the two dry deck shelters and cruise missiles since its been converted to an SSGN.

:Kaleun_Cheers:

[Onkel Neal]

Yes, that was the one I got for the decals. :arrgh!:

[ET2SN]

I was a little hesitant to post that link. :03:

The kit has had a long history of being a bear to assemble. This is an "old school" Dragon kit and the parts are not exactly "crisp" (expect to spend a LOT of time working on the hull) although the scale is accurate.

Sprue Bros. has always been a little "iffy" for me. :hmmm:
I didn't list them in the "Resources" thread because its felt like you need to pay a premium in honor to have them serve you. Their selection is outstanding and in many cases they are the only game in town, so "fair dinkum" to them.
Still, if you can find it anywhere else, go for it. If you can't, grit your teeth and place the order.

I'm NOT trying to say they are bad. I've ordered from them before and their service is fine. Orders are shipped quickly and they stand behind their wares. It just always felt like I was being "nickeled and dimed" on everything, especially shipping/processing.

:doh:

[greitungzing]

Testing different configs of smoke and glues. Looks like plain Elmer's white glue is the best.


Regarding its color, has the Elmer's glue held up over time? I have found white Elmer's glue to turn yellow after a number of years.

[mapuc]

greitungzing Welcome to our community. :Kaleun_Salute: Hope you will enjoy the visit here.

Markus