The DIY thread

[Betonov]

Didn't know where to post this so I just started the ''Subsim mini instructables'' thread. Where we trade project ideas, project help and show off the finished product.


So I got this as a gift a few years ago and I finally decided to rebuild the handle.
http://i.imgur.com/BJtrBkp.jpg?1

Me and Oberon decided that it's most probably a Yugoslav M1924 bayonet. Not confirmed though.

My father (since a have an un-natural fear of rotary saws) cut these pieces of walnut wood for me. I chose walnut because it was lying around the garage and it was dark in color.
http://i.imgur.com/LgkkynG.jpg?1

The trick is to cut a milimeter larger than it would be and just sand away until it fits. I also had a small step to consider here.
And soon you have a nice raw fit.
http://i.imgur.com/sWbi5Ya.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/c5ciBBR.jpg?1
I used two small screws to tighten it to the metal one half at a time and just used a wood rasp to slowly shape it following the metal contour and a feel for how my hand would grab it.
And I got this.
http://i.imgur.com/t9PYNmt.jpg?1

This picture show them just held together with my hand, screws taken out.

I glued them together with a poliester fibreglass putty I ''acquired'' from my previous workplace. Lovely stuff, holds together better than any glue, does not run and does not crack. Riveting would make me screw it up badly, so I cheated with glue :O:

http://i.imgur.com/Q6xldtw.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/NCTMTv4.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/2D20gTh.jpg?1

I wont polish or lacquer it so it looks worn but I am tempted to put 4 small screws where the rivets would have been :hmmm:

[Jimbuna]

That's a pretty good restoration Anze :cool:

[Sailor Steve]

Looks good so far. :sunny:

[Rockstar]

If the glue is going to do the job of fastening the grips to the tang. I assume then the bayonet is just for show and screws are nothing more than eye candy. So instead of screws, you could find rivets which look similar to the original, cut the heads off and glue them on the grip as well.

[Betonov]

If the glue is going to do the job of fastening the grips to the tang. I assume then the bayonet is just for show and screws are nothing more than eye candy. So instead of screws, you could find rivets which look similar to the original, cut the heads off and glue them on the grip as well.

That would work nicely. And I got to remember the word ''tang''

I'm regretting not drilling trough the wood and making the two steel pins I used to stabilize the handle when gluing go trough and then hammer them in to a rivet shape.

And the glue is one of the most powerful on the planet. I trust it more than a rivet.

[Rockstar]

That would work nicely. And I got to remember the word ''tang''

I'm regretting not drilling trough the wood and making the two steel pins I used to stabilize the handle when gluing go trough and then hammer them in to a rivet shape.

And the glue is one of the most powerful on the planet. I trust it more than a rivet.

Got the idea of cutting the heads off fasteners and gluing them on from a drug runner in Miami back in '84. :D

[Betonov]

Got the idea of cutting the heads off
from a drug runner in Miami back in '84. :D

Fixed :O:

[Rockstar]

Back in the day there were certain rifles came from the factory a little too clean and shiney. Soldiers would sometimes take old motor oil and wipe down the wood stock with it. You could try that out on a test piece of wood and see if it might give it that weathered and battle hardened look. If thats what you're looking for, personally I kinda like the contrast of old and new.

[Red October1984]

Depending on what kind of cashflow I get going on in the next two weeks I may paint my car's brake calipers red.

So may or may not have a post in here with a project. :hmmm: I like the idea of the thread though.

[Lionclaw]

Nice fix Betonov. :)


I got a floor lamp that I got for free a couple of months ago, since it doesn't work. I just left it standing somewhere wondering what to do with it.

I recently got interested in electronics, so I took it apart.

http://i.imgur.com/pyStuMk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/aoWJ7zX.jpg

I measured different stuff with the multimeter, I noticed that this fuse has blown, since there's no continuity through it.

http://i.imgur.com/5oc6Igz.jpg

Not sure if I should just solder in a new fuse and try if it works or analyse the other parts and see if there's something else broken. :hmmm:

[Betonov]

Not sure if I should just solder in a new fuse and try if it works or analyse the other parts and see if there's something else broken. :hmmm:

If you're sure the fuse is busted replace it and if that won't work keep looking.

[Rockstar]

Meh, I'd ditch the potentiometers and wire in two toggle switches to turn the lights on and off. And whats with the weird looking end on the plug, thats probably why it doesn't work.:O:

[Wolferz]

Meh, I'd ditch the potentiometers and wire in two toggle switches to turn the lights on and off. And whats with the weird looking end on the plug, thats probably why it doesn't work.:O:

Standard 50's/60's 90 degree male plug.

I'm with you...
What's with all the chokes , pots and caps, does the thing whistle Dxie on an AM radio:06:

[Stealhead]

I can say with 100% certainty that that is an early Mauser pattern bayonet the exact type though hard to say in that condition. It may be a Spanish Mauser as well darn near the same except for different markings.

I can think of three Mauser bayonets that have nearly same basic pattern Chilean, Spanish and Yugoslavian. Though logic would dictate that most likely its a Yugo. I forgot Polish and Czech so it could easily be one of those two come to think of it.

In this case due to contion the scabbard will be the best indicator doubt that you can make out any markings on the blade itself.

I'd use just two screws as all the old Mauser pattern used two but up to you I recon.

[Betonov]

I can say with 100% certainty that that is an early Mauser pattern bayonet the exact type though hard to say in that condition. It may be a Spanish Mauser as well darn near the same except for different markings.


I also showed it to a collector and he also said a Mauser design, to quote him
An abused and over sharpened Yugoslav Mauser bayonet

The ''abusive sharpening'' also explains why the blade narrows (Mauser is same width down the length) and why the groove extends to the tip (A good Mausers stops 5cm before the tip)




In this case due to contion the scabbard will be the best indicator doubt that you can make out any markings on the blade itself.


There isn't even a trace of markings left. The bayonet had to be lying in the ground for a decade or two.




I'd use just two screws as all the old Mauser pattern used two but up to you I recon.

I'm thinking of soaking 4 iron pushpins in salt water for a month and then just pushing them into the handle to make it look like a worn out rivet :hmmm:

[Lionclaw]

Removed the faulty fuse and soldered in the new one. It works! :woot:

http://i.imgur.com/aWGpmxI.jpg


And some mentioned the plug. :O:

http://i.imgur.com/SZu9Rym.jpg

[Rockstar]

Good job Lionclaw.:salute: I was only kidding about the plug being a problem because it wouldn't work in a home in North America. :D

[Tango589]

You can't beat the British 3-pin plug and here's why:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEfP1OKKz_Q

:smug: :D

[Betonov]

So I actually managed to pull of an entire project. Despite I'm ironing out the bugs and flaws, the project is more or less complete.

So, why a trommel. Us gardeners are always cursed with finding a nice soil, rich and free of stones and clay, which in Slovenia means soil deeper than 5cm. Clay and stone prevent roots to freely grow and makes tilling a nightmare.
You can do the old fashioned way, manure will enrich the clay to make it more soil like and stones can be picked out when tilling and in 2 generations you'll observe a nice garden from the other side.
Or you can sift the soil and mix it with compost. We have those screens at home, flat on a wooden frame and you have to sweat a couple of years of your life to sift one wheelbarrow worth of soil.

That's where a trommel comes in. It's rotation equals an endless screen and constant movement where the only work you do is shovel material in.

So before I begin, let me explain my design. Like I said, Slovene soil is clay heavy and very compact. This kind of design (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Omxfrbj7Qus), Where I throw material in and the waste drops out on the other side would prove inefficient.
Here's why
http://i.imgur.com/nx04HwL.jpg?2http://i.imgur.com/fUqgrWx.jpg?2

These small clumps of soil will hapilly bounce to the end of the trommel and be thrown out as waste. But they can be easily crushed.
So I designed the trommel with one side closed off and 3 river stones inside to crush these lumps.

So first, as every invention begins, a truckload of coffee, paper and pen
http://i.imgur.com/YsfeXzj.jpg?1

As soon as I had some good ideas stewing in my head, I needed to gather material. A friend donated a whole bicycle to pick apart, the net I had to buy (€20) and the 6 small wheels (€2 piece). Wood was in ample supply at home.

The 2 bike rims were measured and one of them had spokes cut away. Same with wheels and the plans were drawn in a CAD program

http://i.imgur.com/MkhRBfv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/BNibBs6.jpg?1
The devil was hidden in the project.

So I only needed to start woodworking. Small wooden plates to reinforce the joints and screws only, no glue. I want the thing to be able to disassemble and put away when not needed.
Measure twice, cut once and one side was completed.
http://i.imgur.com/1a0FalB.jpg?1
The rim turned nicely with little resistance. That was a sign I was on the right path.

Before completing the frame I wanted to make the drum. I was unsure how the rims would connect with the net and I wanted to make the frame around the drum.
So, a bike rim and a net.
http://i.imgur.com/88L0yRS.jpg?1http://i.imgur.com/WSCpyUR.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/KCQ9yK2.jpg?1

I closed the spoked side with a barrel cover. The bike gear was there if I decided to make it with a bike chain. The plans were still stewing in my head.

Finishing the frame was an afternoon work at this point
http://i.imgur.com/QokqqLG.jpg?1

The trommel was operational at this point and was even tested by tunring it by hand.
But I'm much to lazy for that :) Let's make it spin with electricity

[Betonov]

So, for my birthday my father gave me an old washmachine motor.

At that point I decided on a drive belt system. The motor had a pulley on and the drum could be upgraded with a third bike rim to act as the larger pully. It also acted like a reductor lowering the RPM from motor to drum.

The first problem was making a system to put some tension into the drive belt. The motor itself was made to be able to pivot. So I made a pivot point out of some L profiles and put a threaded pole trough

http://i.imgur.com/ZLT1sf1.jpg?1
The welds are not something a metal worker would aprove.

So, here's the system. I only needed some nuts, bolts and a steel plate.

Loosened
http://i.imgur.com/MMSxHcP.jpg?1

As I push the engine up, the belt tightens and the small screw on the left follows the groove on the steel plate and when I reached the point where the drum itself begins to get lifted by the drive belt, I tighten the screw to hold the engine in place
http://i.imgur.com/vjQdfkD.jpg?1
Voila.

And that's that.

The entire drive system
http://i.imgur.com/ppAFrvp.jpg?1

The engine itself is able to detach from the frame, to carry it in the garage if rains are predicted. The engine is the most valuable thing.
http://i.imgur.com/fqO21hp.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/xZ6rxt3.jpg?1

The frame was designed to be wheelbarrow height. When I need to empty the drum I just tip the frame towards the wheelbarrow and the waste falls out on itself
http://i.imgur.com/VHRYsGY.jpg?1

The assembly
http://i.imgur.com/ZhNEbuc.jpg?2

The small wheels are loosely screwed in to allow for some breathing. The net is riveted in and I had to make the washer myself to match the specifications. The wood is there to allow for better transfer of torque and helps to agitate the soil.

A look inside the drum
http://i.imgur.com/j0OnY2z.jpg?2

3 river stones are thrown in to crush soil clumps


So, there are bugs, there are still problems and some small things to add. Maybe even a mod.
But in whole, the trommel is complete and operational :woot:

[Betonov]

So, here's how I enrich my soil

Compost to the left, soil to the right
http://i.imgur.com/Y48lclw.jpg?1

5 shovels of soil and 2 shovels of compost is the ratio I throw them into the drum.
The compost is dark gray because it's ash heavy. My compost is a dumping ground for the ash from our furnace :/\\!! I might have to add some limestone to counter the ash acidity.

I also gather decomposted wood from the forest
http://i.imgur.com/WuxDVBg.jpg?1

I throw them in the drum with the soil. The rocks crush it into pulp and it enriches the soil with some more organic material. And it airates the soil.

This pile is one hour work
http://i.imgur.com/E1eCqQR.jpg?1

With screen this would take me an entire day

And the waste after half a wheelbarow sifted
http://i.imgur.com/yZ2qCKj.jpg?2

Again, with screen this wheelbarrow would be full of soil clumps.

Of course, first problem rears it's ugly head.
http://i.imgur.com/8EkHklZ.jpg?1

The net needs to be reinforced :nope: Somehow.

[Aktungbby]

So first, as every invention begins, a truckload of coffee, paper and pen



http://i.imgur.com/MkhRBfv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/BNibBs6.jpg?1
The devil was hidden in the project.








http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/picture.php?pictureid=7048&albumid=815&dl=1381536131&thumb=1 (http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/album.php?albumid=815)u-666:D Isn't it always! I never mastered round things in square holes...So I just bought an Electric mulcher and deciphered the assembly instructions-essentially doing from the bottom up what you have accomplished from the 'top down' to my raised garden boxes. Looks great!:salute:

[Rockstar]

Interesting, ever think of taking it a step further and pan for gold? Might give you something to do on the weekends. :)

[em2nought]

This trommel takes me back to the old days and mounting alternators on detroit diesels in LCMs and OMBs. Luckily the HTs were my friends, but man we made some ugly mounting brackets. It's amazing how many people can't line something up in parallel to save themselves. Belts would come off every time a boat ran. Went thru the entire shop roster on the T-boat until I finally went out myself and fixed it for good.

The three rocks seem like they would be a good addition to a rotating composter as well.

[Betonov]

Interesting, ever think of taking it a step further and pan for gold? Might give you something to do on the weekends. :)

This place is ore barren. The only thing I'd find is clay, limestone, limestone, some more limestone and maybe another kilo of clay :nope:


The three rocks seem like they would be a good addition to a rotating composter as well.

That's the next thing I have on my mind :up:

[Betonov]

So after I bought the Kukri the poor thing just lay on the shelve like a third grade folding knife.

So first of all I needed a template. Kukris are hand made and each one is a bit different so no online template for me. Luckily I had a pizza box nearby :)
http://i.imgur.com/AiIR07T.jpg?1

What follows is just regular sawing and sanding. The sanding goes a lot easier if you watch a movie while you do it. I saw 2 episodes of Hercule Poirot and Child 44.

The trickiest part was connecting the holders with the base.
I marked where to drill a pilot hole trough the base, made the hole, put the holders on their places and just drilled a little bit trough so the drill left a mark on the holder. Then I just made a nice and deep pilot holes inside the holders.
Some glue at the bottom and I just screwed the holders gently in place and left the glue to dry. Which in this heat took about 3 seconds.

Here's the stand with and without the knife
http://i.imgur.com/Bmsgjln.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/HBvTTc8.jpg?1

And in my room
http://i.imgur.com/2cBPrLV.jpg?1


I'm not finished yet. I'm thinking of burning the Nepal flag on the base and then find a nice cherry red lacquer to complement the rosewood handle.
I'm too broke right now for such luxuries

[Rockstar]

I got a house which was finished in 1895 and I am currently renovating the upstairs bathroom which up until the time I arrived used to have a heavy cast iron claw foot tub.

Anyway, I took up the old plank subfloor and the joists are exposed top and bottom, they are the usual hand cut true 2x8 used for everything in homes this old. Outwardly they looked ok but after dry fitting a new subfloor I notice two joists underneath where the tub used to be had a serious of sag in them.

I now plan to replace all the joists. Anyone familiar with the latest construction requirements for the minimum size floor joist needed to span 9.5 feet 16 inch on center?

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa408/jky242/44b4726225151be4a722b84f88626fa2.jpg


btw the old tub is NOT going back. It was so heavy that we could not get it down stairs. I covered it with old tarp and took a 10 pound sledge and it shattered into pieces.

[Aktungbby]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxhsJyNy_Ho (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxhsJyNy_Ho) I had to do similar to the sagging main bath floor.:down: Do not forget to hot mop! I'm no carpenter so I just take careful notes (learn as I explore the mess at hand; and reverse engineer-thank god for wood-shop in the eight grade:O:) as I and my jedi rotozip dismantle and then redo whatever. I Actually discovered this instant hotmop surface on the set of TV show 'Trauma' for a scene when the carpenters swiftly built the inside of a Hornblower dinner boat for a flood scene and kept it in the back of my head(eureka!) for do-it-yourself bath floor stuff including under the tub area or under the kitchen sink! and on hull holes to Catalinas.:huh: If your house is that old, how's the toilet flange lookin' while your at it? No sense doing what your doing and leaving that gizmo to fail on a redone floor! It would really piss U off!:wah:http://www.tilewonders.com/sitebuilder/images/Tile_Rick_006-431x531.jpg https://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/theclam-replacementmounting-rings.jpgthis video cracks me up; it's exactly what my bath looks like!

[Rockstar]

All the plumbing hot, cold water, grey and black water drains flanges etc. etc. are gone. Nothing left but the sewage stack and capped off water supply lines. It is as they say "gutted".

Old copper pipes had sweated through the years and rotted out a lot pf the floor. When they installed a toilet some years later the plumber had cut right through a joist too.

Anyway the ply you see is just half inch beaver barf laid out just for me to stand on while I work on electrical and ceiling insulation.

But since the joists are exposed I figured Id get a BFH and get to work replacing those while the opportunity exists. Just wondering if anyone had any insight into the maximum span of joists. The span is 9.5 feet and I was figuring on going with 2x8 16 o.c. Heavest object in that bathroom is going to be my 210 pound arse.

[Sailor Steve]

I got a house which was finished in 1895...
That is very cool! What you're doing with it ain't so shabby either. :rock:

[u crank]

Just wondering if anyone had any insight into the maximum span of joists. The span is 9.5 feet and I was figuring on going with 2x8 16 o.c. Heavest object in that bathroom is going to be my 210 pound arse.

The house we have lived in for the last 10 years is 35 years old. It has 2x8 joists 16 o.c. that span 14 feet. That is light by todays standards but we have had no issues. If you don't have a bathtub in there you should be fine.

Have fun. Glad it's you and not me. :D Our previous home was a 100 year old farm house that got the full treatment. Once is enough. :O:

[Rockstar]

That is very cool! What you're doing with it ain't so shabby either. :rock:

Ya it was pretty exciting when we first started. Thought we could knock it out in under a year. But one day I shut off all the interior electrical switchs and lights and saw that the meter was still running. YIKES, We isolated the circuit but when we started tracing wires we found the knob and tube had seen better days. On top of that they had blown in insulation in the wire runs which is a big no no in Maryland. So we decided then to gut the entire house, rewire and renovate the inside.

Its going on two and a half years now. Almost there, just have three out of thirteen rooms to go.

The charm has worn off a long time ago though. :D

I dred the next big project of soffit and facia, I hate heights.

[Rockstar]

The house we have lived in for the last 10 years is 35 years old. It has 2x8 joists 16 o.c. that span 14 feet. That is light by todays standards but we have had no issues. If you don't have a bathtub in there you should be fine.

Have fun. Glad it's you and not me. :D Our previous home was a 100 year old farm house that got the full treatment. Once is enough. :O:


My biggest concern is we plan on 18x18 porcelain tiles and I am a bit concerned about deflection. Then again maybe Im just stressing out over nothing.

[u crank]

My biggest concern is we plan on 18x18 porcelain tiles and I am a bit concerned about deflection. Then again maybe Im just stressing out over nothing.

If you use 3/4 plywood, well screwed down it should be fine, but you could add another layer, say 1/2'' to be really safe. A 1 1/4'' sub-floor is almost like concrete.


Then again maybe Im just stressing out over nothing.

You have to relax. :D

[fireftr18]

Rockstar, for the floor joists, stay away from those wood I-beams. They're sold under different names, but all are the same. To put is simple, they're not even good enough to be called junk.

Here is one of many articles I copied from Fire Engineering. As you can see with the date, it's an older article. We know much more about them and have some practical experience now, and it's even worse.

I would rather just post a link, but you have to be registered on the site to read it.

WOOD I-BEAMS + FIRE = DISASTER
04/01/2002


BY BRIAN WHITE
The lack of integrity of the construction materials and methods used by today’s building industry creates hazards for firefighters. To make buildings more affordable, increasing profits for builders, the materials are designed to meet the minimum standards of local and national building codes. The performance of these materials during fire conditions endangers the lives of firefighters and sometimes civilians.
LAMINATED WOOD I-BEAMS
The laminated wood I-beam (LWIB) now replaces dimensional lumber as floor and ceiling joists to span long distances without supporting walls on interior partitions. The result is ‘poor surface area to mass ratio.’ The bare minimum of lumber is generally used to construct these I-beams. Instead of solid 2- 2 10-inch lumber (even 2 2 10s are not really 2 2 10-they are more like 1.5 2 9.5), builders use LWIBs composed of solid 2- 2 4-inch wood top and bottom flanges connected by a web of 1/2-inch OSB (a composite material made with waste wood pieces and glue). LWIBs are now being manufactured with 2- 2 3-inch flanges and 3/8-inch webs. This construction material is being incorporated into buildings based on performance standards during ideal conditions, not with firefighter safety in mind.
TACTICS

Click here to enlarge image



Because the burning characteristics of laminated wood are so vastly different from those of conventional lumber, the LWIB lends itself to many different combustion phenomena that have yet to be documented extensively. Some of them include the following:
• Accelerated fire spread. Normally, fire degradation of conventional lumber is about one inch per 45 minutes of burning time (if fire of 1,400°F exposes all sides of the lumber). Adjusting these figures to simulate fire’s exposing only one side of the lumber, as is the case when a fire enters a floor or ceiling bay, the time it takes to penetrate into the adjoining bay is theoretically doubled. When the narrow vertical dimension of conventional lumber is 11/2-inch thick, you would have two hours and 15 minutes of burning time before the fire would spread into the adjoining bay. With the LWIB, the narrow dimension of the lumber is the web construct of the beam, which measures about 3/8 inch. If this material were constructed of regular lumber, the burn time would be about 36 minutes. However, since it is constructed with composite material (smaller pieces of wood and even more combustible glue), the time to penetrate to the adjoining bay would most probably be even shorter. If the burn time were increased by one-sixth because of the addition of the more combustible glue, the actual burn time would be reduced to 30 minutes instead of 36 minutes.
This accelerated burn time would result in a much more advanced fire than would normally be expected. After two hours, an undetected fire in a floor or ceiling bay would spread through seven bays in buildings constructed with LWIBs. The extent of the collapse would depend on the total area involved and the type of construction. If the layout consists of many small rooms, as in residential occupancies, the walls below would be able to support surrounding beams before they were totally burned. On the other hand, the fire would be contained to the original floor/ceiling bay in a building constructed of conventional lumber. According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), when all sides of a wooden beam are exposed to temperatures of 1,100°F, the flames would penetrate one inch every 45 minutes of exposure (see Table 1)
• Backdraft potential. Normally, bakdraft conditions exist in larger, more open areas where the fire has had a chance to burn at a ‘normal’ rate to use up the available amount of oxygen. But if the burn time is accelerated because of the presence of combustible glue and smaller more easily ignited web members, the resulting rapid fire will consume in a much shorter time vast amounts of oxygen in the confined space between floors. Because of the nature of the construction, which limits airflow into the bays to replace that used up by the fire, a ‘localized’ backdraft situation may be present when firefighters open up the area from the floor below. The number of bays involved and the integrity of the ceiling below will dictate the severity of the backdraft potential. In New York City, basement ceilings are required to be covered with gypsum board and fire stopped into areas of no more than 500 square feet above those ceilings. If local building codes don’t require that the ceilings be protected in the basement, a routine basement fire may prove disastrous (see photo 1).

Click here to enlarge image



When this situation exists along with the rapid spread through the bays, because there is no ceiling to limit spread, as would be present on the upper floors, a larger than normal area will be subject to fire extension. This situation is dangerous not only to the members operating in the basement but may lead to the more dangerous situation of catastrophic collapse in buildings that are relatively new and outwardly have a stable appearance.
• Early collapse potential. The newer structural components present the potential for two serious types of collapse. The first would be collapse of the local fire area involving the floor, if the spread of the fire is limited. In many situations, the collapse area would be relatively small and localized, say about one-half a room. However, collapse of the floor can pull joists out of the walls, precipitating a major collapse.

Click here to enlarge image



The second type of collapse would be more dangerous to the operating forces. The use of LWIBs, by nature, allows for spanning of greater distances without the need for support columns, supporting walls, or interior partitions. If damaged toward the center of their span, these beams now become cantilever and can act as a lever on the exterior load-bearing walls. Newer types of construction that incorporate thin metal C-joists are replacing conventional construction, which uses solid-wood assemblies in the formation of the exterior walls. This material is made of relatively thin-gauge metal that relies on its shape to maintain its strength (see photos 2, 3). If a cantilever beam is allowed to change the shape of the C-joist, the bearing wall’s integrity will be compromised. If enough beams are damaged by the fire and sufficient weight of the load is pressing down on the free end of the beam, the potential for an inward-outward collapse of the exterior load-bearing wall is increased. If this occurs on the structure’s lower floors, the entire building may catastrophically collapse. The speed at which the beams burn makes it unlikely that a cantilever problem may arise.

Click here to enlarge image



• Floating floors. As mentioned before, the rapidity at which these LWIBs burn means that more of them will be involved in fire at an earlier stage when compared with nominal-sized lumber. Fires involving LWIBs have shown rapid fire spread and early collapse. At a second-alarm fire in Queens, which I personally witnessed, a private dwelling with a rear extension made from LWIBs was involved in fire spread. The main structure of the house remained relatively intact while the new addition sustained almost total collapse.
These beams burn quickly and completely in most cases. Because of this rapid fire spread and the fact that the beams support each successive floor above them, a relatively minor fire can potentially cause a total building collapse. On the exterior walls of these buildings, the bearing wall is built on top of the ends of the supporting beams of the floor below (see photo 2). These beams are LWIBs, which range in height from eight to 18 inches. If, say, the LWIB is 14 inches high and the fire in the bays were to consume the entire beam near an exterior (load bearing) wall, that side of the building could drop 14 inches while the other side of the building remained at a constant height. This would result in an eccentric load in the building wall and would create a shear force within that wall. As the fire progressed upward in the building, the lateral shear of the floors would increase significantly because of the loss of height (approximately 14 inches per floor) on one side while the other side remained relatively constant.

Click here to enlarge image



Shear forces in the horizontal direction would now cause the load of the building to shift eccentrically to the lower side. Because the sum of the forces would now be out of equilibrium, the vertical forces pulling on the building would also affect the stability of the structure. The more weight you add to the building (firefighters, equipment, water, and so on), the more unstable the building would become.
Even if the structure did not collapse from the shear forces exerted by the angular deflection caused by the consumption of one side of the supporting structure, the entire building would be susceptible to any force exerted on it, because the basic foundation of each floor (the connection between the top of the exterior wall studs and the flooring above to the LWIBs) would be gone. Each floor would now become a ‘free standing’ building positioned on top of the other with nothing to anchor one floor to the other.
QUALITY/STRENGTH

Click here to enlarge image



By examining the construction of the LWIBs in photo 4, you can see that there is a gap in the web to flange joint. At that point, only two pieces of laminated wood are carrying the entire load, and each piece of wood is approximately 1/8-inch thick (instead of the full 1/2-inch). As long as the vertical forces are axial, there seems to be no problem with the stability of the components. However, if the forces are shifted even slightly eccentric, the stability of the beam comes into question, as does the stability of the entire building. Photo 5 illustrates how easily this lack of thickness can reduce the stability when shear forces are present.

Click here to enlarge image



Inspections have been performed during field visits to construction sites in Brooklyn, New York, where these LWIBs were being installed. At the site, the ‘proper’ beams were being used in these buildings. These beams were stamped with the ‘MEA approval,’ as required by the Department of Buildings (NYC) Technical Policy and Procedure Notice (TPPN) 2/00. The NYC Building Department requires this because of the reduced quality of the products of the factory where this lumber was produced. A copy of this Notice can be found on the NYC Department of Buildings Web site at http://www.nyc.gov/html/dob/html/tppn0200.html.

Click here to enlarge image



On closer inspection of these beams, they appeared to contain the same defects the older beams possessed (such as voids between the flange and web and uneven application of glue in that same area (see photos 4, 6).
Some concerns have arisen dealing with laminated wood I-beams used in construction. It has become obvious that there is a lack of quality control at the factory that manufactures the LWIBs, resulting in substandard structural components. The quality of these beams seemed to be worse than that of the original material this TPPN was supposed to correct. We anticipated a greatly improved product to protect our members and the general public; instead, we received a product that appears to be inferior.
Below are some examples that highlight the problems present in these LWIBs:
• There are gaps in the upper web where there is no direct contact, or glue, to the flange (photo 6).
• There are cracks in the flanges, probably caused by the size of the material-too small, 2 2 4 should be used at the minimum-or the wood is not properly dried before it is installed into the component (photo 6).
• The gap the PRE TPPN 2/00 requirement was to correct still exists. This void does not allow direct contact between the web and the flanges, thereby reducing the member’s structural strength. As you can see in the photograph, the flanges are supported only by about 1/8-inch of material on each side of the void instead of a full 1/2-inch (photo 6).
The fact that LWIBs are being used throughout the country should be of great concern to firefighters. This type of construction poses a grave danger to our safety and that of the public under fire conditions. Firefighters should investigate closely when notified of such construction or spotting these conditions on their own. Today’s defective or substandard construction will pose a severe safety threat in future emergencies.
LESSONS LEARNED AND REINFORCED
• Keep an eye out for this type of construction. If your department doesn’t perform regular building inspection duty, request that your local town/county building department notify you in writing whenever buildings using this material are going to be built. On notification, the individual in your department responsible for building activity should make an on-site inspection of the building while it is still under construction. The building address and the unique construction features should be noted in the department’s Special Building File so responding units will have early notification. This file could be as sophisticated as a computerized identification system or as simple as a card index system. Either way, it will alert responding units to the hidden dangers in the building after it has been completed.
• In your drills, make all department members familiar with the unique construction features incorporated in these buildings.
• Make sure this information gets to everyone and into the critical information dispatch system.
• When you see newly constructed buildings, make sure you err on the side of caution and assume that they are constructed with open-web wood joists or LWIB components. In both cases, the safety of the firefighters could be endangered much sooner than normally would be anticipated.
BRIAN WHITE is a 20-year veteran of the Fire Department of New York, where he serves as a chief of Battalion 45 in Long Island City, Queens. He is working toward a bachelor’s degree in earth and space science at S.U.N.Y. at Stony Brook.

Here's the link if you want to see if you'll be able to access the article. http://www.fireengineering.com/articles/print/volume-155/issue-4/training-tips/wood-i-beams-fire-disaster.html

[Buddahaid]

My biggest concern is we plan on 18x18 porcelain tiles and I am a bit concerned about deflection. Then again maybe Im just stressing out over nothing.

Hardibacker cement board between the wood flooring and tile is the way to go. I used the 500 board in my kitchen but the thinner 1/4" board is fine and easier to use. It makes a moisture barrier and a nice flat surface for the tile to be set onto.

http://www.jameshardie.com/Products/HardieBacker-Cement-Board

[Rockstar]

Ive read a little about those I-beam frames, it was interesting but they're not something I can use to replace the original joists. Heck, I cant even use joist hangers for the new ones I cut. I have to notch out a true 2x8 and then cross nail them to the sill.

As for underlayment I looked all the options and Im gonna go with ditra, seems like a lot less work.

just an FYI, I got joists 16 inch o.c. 3/4 inch beaver barf and that floor is solid AND level! :woot:

[Betonov]

I've faced a problem with starting my garden from seeds that the window sill in my room does not receive enough light for the seedlings to get a good start. They always started climbing like crazy, gasping for light untill they simply snapped under their own weight.

A germination box was the answer.

First step, destroy a cabinet.
This was my old school supply and alcohol reserve cabinet, but since I'm not in school anymore and my father has a wine cellar built I emptied it and covered the walls with aluminium foil. Simple double sided tape and a steady hand.

http://i.imgur.com/t1o7toh.jpg?1

Why aliminium foil. Light can be described as a current of particles. Matt surfaces like wood absorbe light, while an alu-foil reflects it. The less you loose in walls, the more for your plants, less power goes to light up wood that's been dead for 20 years. Heat insulation is not that important since this is in my room.

Second step, light.

If a window sill can't do the job, a closed cabinet is even worse.
I went with LED grow lights, red and blue and 440nm and 660nm light wave respectably.

This graph (let's get into science) shows what wavelenghts the plant chlorophyll likes. 440nm and 660nm.
http://www.carnivorousplants.org/howto/SoilsWater/Images/Light.Chlorophyll_spectrum.jpg

Plants hate green light. That's why they're green, they bounce it away. Having a white light for plants means you throw for an entire spectrum of power away.

And what I ordered on E-bay ??

A 12V, 5A LED light strip, red: blue 4:1

http://i.imgur.com/MhcLUNd.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/XhZ2Kry.jpg?1

Shiny
http://i.imgur.com/scMFTyS.jpg?1

Cut them to size, glue them to an aluminium rod and mount. The dimensions depend on the size of your cabinet. I had to cut rods to 67cm and the strips to 55cm, leave room on both sides to take into account wirring and (here it comes) duct tape.
Don't use wood or plastic. the strip does heat up and you need metal that will also act as a heat sink.

http://i.imgur.com/qwdAfsH.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/dKR0qFq.jpg?1

I will have to use a few zip-ties along the strip, the double sided tape is not that strong. Zit-ties are not a problem, just place it over a resistor so you don't obstruct an LED.


Third step, ventilation

Plants need fresh moving air. Stale air combined with the humidity from the soil makes for an excellent breeding ground for mold and rot. The ventilation also brings in CO2 plants need.

A 12V PC fan does the job.
http://i.imgur.com/1ABuDQQ.jpg?2

Make sure the fan blows air inside so it also cools the LED strips.


Four, power supply

You can order a working grow light with it's own power converter and fans, plug and grow kind. But those are €200 and more. A 5m strip is €25, but you will have to play electrician.

Most elegant solution is a PC power supply unit (PSU). Unlike a plug in transformer some appliances use, a PSU is trong enough to power in my case 2m of LEDs and 2 fans.

http://i.imgur.com/97nJk66.jpg?1
I still need to shorten the wires and mount the PSU in the corner.

Here's the fun part. Turning a PSU into a 12V bench power supply.

You have different color wires comming out of a PSU.
You need YELLOW, ORANGE, RED, BLACK and GREEN.
The rest you can remove without affecting the PSU, as long as you don't leave loose wires that can shorten out by accident.

So, here's the list:

BLACK: ground
YELLOW: 12V
ORANGE: 5V
RED: 3,5V
GREEN: control wire

After cutting out all un-necessary wires you have to connect and solder the green and one black. Without that the PSU thinks the PC is OFF and wont' work.

Then you just connect the color wires, in my case the yellow ones since the strip and fans are all 12V, with the + connectors and black with - connectors. Don't worry if you mix it up, the main function of a diode is to prevent current going the wrong way so the strip won't light up, but also won't short. Don't soder until you're sure or use clamps.


And final construct
http://i.imgur.com/y9plNfE.jpg?1

[Gargamel]

Very cool betonov! This post will be right up your alley then.

One of my next two big projects (aside from the DIY Oscilloscope kit I got for xmas, yes, they exist, and cheap too) will be a desk lamp using a 8x8 plate of LED's similar to those. But it will be adjustable so it will do bright white or any color of the rainbow. I will be using it as a normal desk lamp, for photography using the colors as bounce lights, and the pure red for a darkroom safe light for PCB photo etching.

The other project will be a gift to my girlfriend's grandfather, who just retired from a career designing industrial machine controls. It'll be a clock but it will use analog voltmeter displays to display the time. One each for the hours, minutes, and seconds. This is a photo of the original gauge that came with the meters, I'm going to print my own and install them to display the appropriate thing.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/5b6188e7-9038-4457-aff2-b0d27e11e338_zpsd4yskvom.jpg

Some of the other projects I've been doing over the past year: (I have a number of projects for customers and my racing boat that I won't be posting up, as the designs are pretty proprietary.) The links are for the project pages on the 3d printing site Thingiverse, they're all stuff I have designed, and have shared freely.

My latest creation, I DIY home power supply, just like Bet showed above, but a bit more finished (?):

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1280106

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/61490173-552b-4b9b-813f-2b7369461446_zps9a6lucpn.jpg

A 12v adapter plug for car things:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1277947

http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/6d/9b/9d/ff/80/25b399ef2c3efbe0e5cd31d7c7480617_preview_featured. JPG


A rack for model paint jars. This is my design, but I only printed one as I only have a dozen jars of my own, the photo is from a make of my design, and I gotta give the guy credit for making such an awesome rack of paint. Made me feel really proud to see someone do this:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:622033

https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/ef/1c/79/4e/9e/20150213_153625_preview_featured.jpg

A nice cigar case for larger cigars:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:447788

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/943d310f-938a-4f77-a10d-9241cfa4fb96_zpsxpauphne.jpg

[Gargamel]

One more coming... posting this to save the spot. Have to edit the Video and post it to youtube.

[Betonov]

Very cool betonov! This post will be right up your alley then.



I'm actually a complete moron when it comes to electricity :dead:
My father is an electrician so I was never forced to learn. We have a saying: the blacksmiths horse is always barefooted.
Luckily the internet has some good step-by-step guides :03:

[Gargamel]

Same here, that's how I built that power supply. It's basically the same ting you did, but instead of tapping into the wires, I just cut them short and mounted them on the case.

[Gargamel]

Video is done, sorta. I really need to get a good video editing package. Had one from NCH, they make excellent stuff, and if you need something short term, most of their stuff has a 30 day trial. They make just about every software package you can think of.

Anyways, it's a lantern I made to take the nephew and pseudo-step daughter trick or treating. The camera killed the colors and the diffusion, you can't see the light source in real life, but it has a flickering flame pattern, an oscillating rainbow (slow and fast) and a random color picker. It runs about 5 hours off batteries and also can be plugged into the wall with a 5v power supply.

Here's the insides, it's rough since it was rushed to be working for halloween, a much smaller package is desired to lower the LED's, but oh well.

http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/ff/de/27/ac/e2/Neopixellatern_preview_featured.JPG






https://youtu.be/cW_QjvppizA

[Gargamel]

Drill press for home made printed circuit boards.

https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/1f/c2/70/cf/f8/c55129c1a0eca2b2ade9548db1e1c624_preview_featured. JPG

[Betonov]

My garden is complete.

http://i.imgur.com/hPwIAjS.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/ZZC7xTi.jpg?2

Wooden frame screwed into my neighbours wall and extended with PVC utility pipes to form a side. Open on both sides to let the air flow trough.
Excess foil is rolled up at the bottom. If it gets' damaged this year I can flip it over next season.

Waiting for a storm to check for any weakneses, but this is my 4th year with this design, I should have everthing ironed out now.

[Red October1984]

*sigh*

Rear shocks, rear tires, oil pan gasket, oil filter housing gasket and valve cover gasket.

DIY Time.

I'll be doing the shocks and tires myself alongside another mechanically inclined friend of mine. As for the gaskets, my local Euro mechanic will be doing that.

So far:

1) Discovered oil leak
2) Investigated oil leak - determined it was Oil Pan Gasket
3) Mechanic's opinion - All three gaskets are leaking, two of which are a slow seeping
4) Ordered 60$ of parts and 40$ of oil
5) Had alignment checked (Today)
6) Front/Rear Toe angle and Right Rear Camber are off. Camber is a smidge more positive than the other rear wheel
7) Investigated Right Rear suspension
8) Wiped oil-covered shock, promptly swore
9) Angrily took to google with my now-black with oil and brake dust hands
10) Currently researching shock absorber prices and considering burning cash to heat the house

:dead:

Parts for oil leaks come in Friday. Going to order new rear shocks between now and then and prepare for DIY. :salute:

After which I'll be in the market for some 245/40R17's....

[Onkel Neal]

What year and model car?

[Betonov]

garden update

my chilli section

http://i.imgur.com/Vsxl5Pl.jpg?1

[Red October1984]

What year and model car?

2005 BMW 330i

Good ol' E46... :03:

Update: Rear shock lower bolts do NOT want to come loose. :/\\!!

[Betonov]

Update: Rear shock lower bolts do NOT want to come loose. :/\\!!

I heard coca cola does wonders to that.
Not joking, I'll try to link the article after work

[Catfish]

^ If you have nothing else, try Cola. If you have WD-40, try this.
Both are better than nothing, but not much.

If you really want to loosen screws effectively, take something like rust-shock or chemical wrench, or mix some acetone with hydraulic fluid. Latter one is cheap, but destroys paint, so use only on unpainted parts..
Never going back to WD-40 again, this stuff is almost useless.

@Betonov: greenhouse looks nice! :up:

[Betonov]

@Betonov: greenhouse looks nice! :up:

Had to redo the sides. Those PVC pipes just bent when the first breeze push agaisnt them.
So I just extended the wooden frame with more wood

http://i.imgur.com/RlFCxYy.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/JJ9XM8X.jpg?2


And also made an apartment balcony herb and tomato garden for my city dwelling friend

http://i.imgur.com/A6BtMQP.jpg?1

Parsley, basil, oregano, rosemary, thime, mint, cherry tomato, venezia tomato, san marizano tomato and jalapeno and tabasco peppers. Poted and ready to be moved to a new home.

[Jimbuna]

Do you need a greenhouse for jalapenos or could I grow them in my conservatory?

[Betonov]

Do you need a greenhouse for jalapenos or could I grow them in my conservatory?

Anywhere the temperature never drops below 1o°C
So yes.

[Jimbuna]

Anywhere the temperature never drops below 1o°C
So yes.

Danke padawan :salute:

[Betonov]

Danke master :salute:

Fixed :O:

[THE_MASK]

Bought an old wardrobe for 60 bucks .
Removed the front panels and replaced with glass .
I used to be a glazier so easy for me to cut some glass .
Added the glass shelves and a mirror floor .
Wiped the outside timber with some scratch cover stain .
Bought a 5mtr strip of led lighting .

[Betonov]

That's some nice handywork.
If I'd try to remove wood and place glass in an old wardrobe, the wardrobe would end up as firewood.

And quite a collection of artifacts

[THE_MASK]

That's some nice handywork.
If I'd try to remove wood and place glass in an old wardrobe, the wardrobe would end up as firewood.

And quite a collection of artifacts
I have always been a collector . For the last 40 years anyway .
Stamps/Rocks and minerals/coins/Metal detecting etc etc etc .

[Gargamel]

The WD in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement", and the 40 means it was their 40th attempt at getting it right. WD-40 is not an oil per se. While it can lubricate, it is best used for getting water out of places it shouldn't be.

If you are going to need oil, use a penetrating oil like 3 in 1, or Zep's. PB blaster is also pretty good for 4 reasons: 1) It's made locally (Cleveland Ohio) 2) It smells like Peanut Butter 3) IT will loosen stuck bolts really well, and 4) There's enough random text written on the can that you will have plenty of reading material to read while waiting for dozens of bolts.


Found an my Great Great Uncle's old wood lathe on a shelf the other day and wanted to play with it. It had been adapted at some time from being treadle powered to an AC motor. So i mounted it on a 2x8, and got it ready to run.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/E4A666C1-B847-499E-9C26-DAA200DE7376-238-00000039177C862C_zpsmlfodwtw.jpg

THere is a lot of hardware missing from it, but I figured I could bodge some stuff together. The kicker is though, There was an old box of chisels with it, turns out to be $300-$500 worth of chisels if purchased new today. I started cleaning them up and plan on making new handles for most of them. One of them turned out to be an old framing chisel made in 1837. (On the very left of the pile you can see a pair of actual soldering irons. As in you stick the lump of metal in a fire, and use it to melt solder on pipes and wire.)

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/9774A68C-E22B-43E7-AD11-830C198FF0BB-238-000000392220C5CB_zpsslbwn2pn.jpg

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/BC52B9C7-FBD6-41D4-9FDA-FC7835D24647-238-000000392B724B61_zpskacl6lmd.jpg


In order to mount some wood, I had to fabricate a drive center for the lathe. The thread on the drive shaft (Which, requires that little hopper on it to be filled with oil each use to keep it turning, and I'm using too thin of oil and it flies everywhere) was really wonky hard to find 1/2" medium thread. We actually had some nuts of it in the stock room at the plant, so I bought a few off the company, TIG' welded them together, and the proceeded to cut teeth into it.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/53404E75-9060-4300-9D22-4DB078DF6B1F-238-0000003948F6FA48_zpszscyizfr.jpg


This was my first and last attempt at running a spindle.


http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/EE9261DB-CA81-4E0F-A9DA-402007F812F2-238-00000039509B6324_zpser6w0mja.jpg


There is now a small hole in the wall. I immediately ordered a face shield, of course using the SUBSIM Amazon affiliate link.

Since my girl has a small wood burning business, and I had the bug to do this, after some deliberation, I dropped the cash on a new 10"x30" lathe, with all the fixings.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/24EC8BEC-9BC5-4DC2-9223-C8241D7C6A80-238-0000003959479F03_zps5rwe5zvn.jpg




It arrived today, and after some initial warmup cuts, I was able to turn this nice little piece as my first attempt at lathing for real. Not usable for drinking, as it's made from a pressure treated 4x4, and used shellac as the finish.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/CD272ED4-958A-45ED-9721-DF4E566B3CF6-238-0000003964CD14A1_zpsc8suyrz5.jpg

Now I just have to get good at sharpening chisels.

[Gargamel]

My second pen. First was in the same style with satin nickel metal and rosewood.

This one is made from drift wood found on the beach that day.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/pen1_zps6it4xwfb.jpeg

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/pen2_zpsmp4qnehw.jpeg

[Gargamel]

Pen #4.

Yes, it's a .30 cal bolt action Cross Ink pen, with a turned Tulipwood shaft, C/A finish, sanded down to 15,000 grit (yes, 15,000 grit), and then a light polish.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/36A7BE9C-56C5-43ED-B528-28FEDEB1305E-2512-00000183A43C63B1_zpswaos5nf8.jpg

[Betonov]

I can't make a straight cut on a plank and you're making pens out of driftwood

[Catfish]

Those pens look phantastic, very elegant! :up:
You should open an internet shop, and actively offer such pens to all companies that are in the wood branch :)

And a teak one to Aktung :D

[Jimbuna]

I'd be tempted to take orders on those if I had the skills required :cool:

[Red October1984]

I heard coca cola does wonders to that.
Not joking, I'll try to link the article after work

^ If you have nothing else, try Cola. If you have WD-40, try this.
Both are better than nothing, but not much.

If you really want to loosen screws effectively, take something like rust-shock or chemical wrench, or mix some acetone with hydraulic fluid. Latter one is cheap, but destroys paint, so use only on unpainted parts..
Never going back to WD-40 again, this stuff is almost useless.

It's been a bit but I did manage to change my rear shocks. Turns out both of them were bad although only one of them was in dire need of replacement. I put Bilstein touring class shocks in and it made a world of difference. First drive felt like the rear end was glued to the road.

Got that bolt loose with a breaker bar and a 18mm impact socket. I made sure to torque it to spec when I put it back in so it wouldn't be too hard to get out in a few months when I upgrade to Bilstein HD's.

EDIT: I did actually use some CLP I had lying around for my guns. That helped a bit.

I did all my work at a friend's tire shop one evening and in turn I agreed to help him with a power steering rack and pinion and brake job he needed done on his Mustang Mach One.

Got the car up on stands and took the wheels off....promptly snapped two bolts because it turns out Ford doesn't know how to use good bolts. :shifty: Put everything back together and he ended up paying a mechanic to do it all.

Next project is going to be the Clutch Delay Valve delete as soon as I can get a couple tools and a friend willing to help.

[Gargamel]

*Dunno why the first reply didnt post a few hours ago, but here's another*

Yes Jim, the goal is to get good enough to sell these. There's a craft show my girl and I are going to this weekend, hopefully I can sell a few of these.

I ordered a box of 100 exotic wood cutoffs, suitable for pen making:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/822A32BF-876C-4B47-B924-74C57EC1A659-4109-000003308E4D91C6_zps31n3zny9.jpg

Made a few pens with those, So now, I'm trying to get a little more creative. I ripped some length wise, and glued them up:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/E02D6104-B624-481E-87D9-0381A290F546-4109-000003118D848F2E_zpslbg65xhf.jpg

Here's what the cross section looks like:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/C4026CCC-72EC-4080-BB8C-1538EB1F6459-4109-000003119709664B_zps91nef60b.jpg

And the results. Pen #1:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/F0B63A1D-9C87-4104-BB5D-62B8CC8F3FCB-4109-00000312A5885987_zpsv92heoeg.jpg

Pen #2:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/07160E31-00E3-4DF9-8DF9-55C82B500544-4109-0000032F7D4083A1_zpsi0m7ylnv.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/B75E24C8-C834-4CBC-9BFF-1E8A02B62E8B-4109-0000032F76105062_zpsbdbqlz51.jpg

(And yes, I'm turning this into a gloat thread, sorry. But I'm quite proud of the quality of these so far, but I still have a ways to go. But be ready for more pen pics as they come :) )

[Catfish]

^ Do you sell some?

If you could make some of Robinia wood (also called yellow locust or bastard acacia) i might have some customers for you :03:
Can you print or engrave logos or letters, on them?

[Reece]

I just had a snoop here and noticed your excellent work Gargamel.:yep:
Keep up the good work, love the .30 cal bolt action pen!!:yeah:

[Gargamel]

Thank you guys!

Yes, I'm planning on selling some.

If I can get the wood, I can make a pen out of it.

We are perfecting the engraving process, we might look into a laser engraver in the future, but for now, she's burning engravings in the pens. We're still working out the process. Sadly to say, Our first engraving venture kinda failed, we ended up with an "antichrist" pen. It's authentic (letter of authenticity authentic) Olivewood from Bethlehem, Isreal. She went to burn a cross onto the pen surface, but misheard which way was up..........

[Reece]

Oh dear, maybe the short end can be extended!!:oops:

[Betonov]

Sell it anyway. An antichrist pen would sell for bigger money than a christian one

[Gargamel]

Soooo.... I'm glad I purchased a high end face shield....

This was supposed to be another .30 cal bolt action pen:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/48A5C7B9-3456-4AAB-AE8E-04FF93D5DAB6-7284-0000052504E105EE_zpszlaksyns.jpg


But.... as I'm turning it... ZING.... dammit.....

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/D233512C-6FFD-470F-B99D-034F8E8B1407-7284-000005250FB1A854_zpsmmwacwwv.jpg


Oh well.... I got enough extra to make a few more.... time for take 2

[Jimbuna]

Pen #4.

Yes, it's a .30 cal bolt action Cross Ink pen, with a turned Tulipwood shaft, C/A finish, sanded down to 15,000 grit (yes, 15,000 grit), and then a light polish.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/36A7BE9C-56C5-43ED-B528-28FEDEB1305E-2512-00000183A43C63B1_zpswaos5nf8.jpg

You can put me down for one of those if you ever have one to sell :cool:

[harag]

(And yes, I'm turning this into a gloat thread, sorry. But I'm quite proud of the quality of these so far, but I still have a ways to go. But be ready for more pen pics as they come :) )

There is nothing wrong with a gloating about your work, I for one am always impressed with things made by hand by other people, no matter what it is. Better than machine made.

Have you got an etsy website or something like that to sell the the product? Would love to know how much your selling them for and if you will deliver to the UK

https://www.etsy.com/uk/

Another through - as well as wood - what about Bone, is that do able?

[Gargamel]

Yes, I'll do bone.

But Human only.






Ok.... I have never tried bone, but antler is a common material. Supposed to smell bad when turning though. I'd imagine it's similar to severely burnt flesh, which I've had the displeasure of smelling on more than one occasion (not mine).

Bone would be an interesting medium to work with, but the core being hollow may raise some issues, as you can see in the one photo, the blank is drilled out and a brass tube glued in. I'll look into it.

And Shipping to UK Shouldn't be a problem, I've found Spain though to be ludicrously expensive (I was trying to ship some 3d printed parts there once). I'm also meeting up with a friend this fall who works for the BBC, so I might be able to have her ship them locally when she gets back home.

[Gargamel]

(*again apologies for the spam, but dang I'm having fun*)

Polystyrene infused Mahogany:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/D733DEAA-CC52-4F59-A067-EDC7024B8D86-8930-00000651BA5C857C_zpshq1unpkd.jpg

[Gargamel]

OK, Last one for a while. I have to turn a Jack Daniels Oak barrel pen, and then a Bethlehem Olivewood one, and then I'll be set for the show this weekend.

But this one has been my nemesis all week. Broken tubes, stuck tubes, shattered blanks (at high speed!), etc etc. Finally got one.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll203/goestrider/3E3E0385-774C-454A-9834-64E9DA018951-10635-0000079FD6171BBA_zpstrmipih1.jpg

[Aktungbby]

Thank you guys!

Yes, I'm planning on selling some.

If I can get the wood, I can make a pen out of it.

We are perfecting the engraving process, we might look into a laser engraver in the future, but for now, she's burning engravings in the pens. We're still working out the process. Sadly to say, Our first engraving venture kinda failed, we ended up with an "antichrist" pen. It's authentic (letter of authenticity authentic) Olivewood from Bethlehem, Isreal. She went to burn a cross onto the pen surface, but misheard which way was up.......... Count me in as well! my wife loves pens (Mont Blancs etc) and has quite a collection; and i've got some nice ones as well for 'old style 'formal' letter writing' including Christmas cards- all of which sadly has gone out of style...mostly because the recipients have passed on. If you could put a 666 on that antichrist pen....Donald Trump will be envious:up:

[Red October1984]

Going to order new rear shock mounts and bolt-in reinforcement plates due to a noise occurring after replacing the shocks. :hmmm:

Hurry up payday!

Also, going to look into removing Clutch Delay Valve very soon. Found a pressure bleeder I can borrow as well as shop space. :rock:

If I remember, may throw some pics in here.

[Gargamel]

Making some cheap night stands for the house we're renting, and the wall we have the bed along is kinda small, so I decided to use some MDF instead of oak or Maple, considerably cheaper. Including glue, paint, and screws, probably cost me $30. That's not counting the few thousand I have in shop tools, but those pay for themselves in other ways :).

Oh, and I did some matched pen and pencil sets for christmas gifts out of an old counter top made of corian. The look like granite. I'll have to get some pictures of them in the future, didn't think to grab any then!.

But here's the cut list, and the pieces as a gif. I'm working on a YouTube video, so I'll link that when I'm done. What you see here is as far as I've gotten so far, lol.

All of these came from 2 quarter sheets (2'x4') of 1/2" MDF. I can't fit anything bigger in my car. That made the cutlist insanely complicated.

http://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2017_02/cutlist.JPG.79389b8ca02c85a8a353ba29a057ff8d.JPG


http://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2017_02/cutlistgif.gif.31831a6f8b68d6fb1c3f3f7d56e70583.gi f

The nice thing about these night stands, they're very easy to make. I'm going to add some flourishes to the sides, but if I don't all I need to make these is a Handsaw, a drill,some glue, and screws. Easy project. Of course, I'll be using all my tools I can, but for those with limited tools, it's an easy design.

[Gargamel]

Oh, and I finished my planer stand a couple weeks ago, was kinda nice to do my first woodworking project from scratch, from a Sketchup plan to actual product.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/attachments/f30/158876d1485123320-planer-stand-planerstand-3.jpg

http://www.penturners.org/forum/attachments/f30/159880d1487139501-planer-stand-planerstand.jpg

[Gargamel]

Segmented bowl in progress:

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2017_04/2017_04_26_00555.JPG.85b98d982658f354be024e2de6379 9b9.JPG

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2017_04/output_h4znvL.gif.3e1638fbfd226e536fed17d0224de15a .gif

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2017_04/2017_04_29_00570.thumb.JPG.2cdfdd3482ef04a72bd6160 5394bcb88.JPG

[Gargamel]

Finished Bowl:

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2017_05/2017_05_07_00597.JPG.44af22099b3cac86e367ead2cce47 a50.JPG

[Sophia]

Finished Bowl:

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2017_05/2017_05_07_00597.JPG.44af22099b3cac86e367ead2cce47 a50.JPG
I absolutely love it! Which type of wood is this if i may ask?

[Aktungbby]

Sophia!:Kaleun_Salute:

[Onkel Neal]

[QUOTE=Gargamel;2482975]Finished Bowl:

That looks amazing!:up:

[Gargamel]

Walnut base and top ring, Select Pine for the segments, and 70+year old reclaimed Larch for the dividers.

Build thread at: https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/25592-segmented-bowl/ If anybody is interested, but the 3 pics I posted pretty much sum it up, thread just has a bunch of back forth brain storming and the little details of the build.

[Gargamel]

Mother's day gift for the girlfriend. Maple base, segments include Paduak, Walnut, Larch, Tulipwood, Rosewood, Mahogany, Chechum, Bubinga, Bird's Eye Maple, Yellowheart, Locust, and a couple other's I can't remember.

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2017_05/2017_05_14_00793.thumb.JPG.892a5948cfc1a694deca488 94fc7a377.JPG

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2017_05/2017_05_14_00785.JPG.56a6685a31ace187be8a80257107e 547.JPG

[Jimbuna]

Very nice indeed :sunny:

[Gargamel]

Very nice indeed :sunny:
Thank you sir

[Eichhörnchen]

My boy busted his bed last night. No, not like that... playing Batman Lego 'Dimensions' on his Playstation. Taken me the best part of today to fix it. He's a big lad now... he's busted five so far.

[Gargamel]

My boy busted his bed last night. No, not like that... playing Batman Lego 'Dimensions' on his Playstation. Taken me the best part of today to fix it. He's a big lad now... he's busted five so far.

That just means you need to stop buying cheap beds. It's probably time for his adult bed, get a good one.

[Eichhörnchen]

Maybe, but he only busted this one twice... the other three were elsewhere :) Anyway, blame my wife... he had a good solid oak and iron bed to start with, but Moira wanted a pine one to match his bedroom furniture. Go and chase some smurfs.

[Commander Wallace]

Maybe, but he only busted this one twice... the other three were elsewhere :) Anyway, blame my wife... he had a good solid oak and iron bed to start with, but she wanted a pine one to match his bedroom furniture.


Are you sure he doesn't know or have any neighborhood lasses for gal pals? It could explain how the bed got broke " 5 times so far " :D

[Eichhörnchen]

When I went to the DIY store for the timber this morning a friend who works there greeted me. "He busted the bed last night" I said.

"I don't even want to go there" he said.

[em2nought]

When I went to the DIY store for the timber this morning a friend who works there greeted me. "He busted the bed last night" I said.

"I don't even want to go there" he said.

I think I see the problem. You need to pick up fasteners of some kind, not just lumber. :03:

[Eichhörnchen]

:haha: He came clean about it then realised he might still be in trouble... I could see him thinking fast then he went for it and said: "Important thing is I wasn't hurt".

[Gargamel]

How old is this child?

[u crank]

Fence I built for my son and with his help. Getting posts in ground was the hard part. Halifax N.S. is very rocky. Everybody is happy and I'm glad it turned out ok. I'm to old for this stuff.:yep:

http://i.imgur.com/uG0BmkV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/espFOn9.jpg

[Eichhörnchen]

Nice tidy job :yeah:

[Commander Wallace]

Fence I built for my son and with his help. Getting posts in ground was the hard part. Halifax N.S. is very rocky. Everybody is happy and I'm glad it turned out ok. I'm to old for this stuff.:yep:

http://i.imgur.com/uG0BmkV.jpg (http://http://i.imgur.com/uG0BmkV.jpg)

http://i.imgur.com/espFOn9.jpg (http://http://i.imgur.com/espFOn9.jpg)


Great job. :up:

Donald trump Just tweeted, " That's a great fence, If you're not busy and have some time, we have a fence building project for you. " :03:

[Jimbuna]

Great work Marcel :up:

I know who to ask when the fence at the rear of the Buna household needs renewing :03:

[Gargamel]

Anybody doing any DIY christmas gift projects? I have a few in the works right now, and I'll post them up when they're done, but as it's 15* F in the shop right now, I could use some inspiration.

[vienna]

...and some heating...







<O>

[Gargamel]

...and some heating...







<O>

My torpedo heater is on it's way, should arrive tomorrow. I have a littel space heater that warms me when I'm at the desk (I don't smoke inside the house, but I do habitually when I'm gaming, so the computer is in the shop), but I can't run that and the power tools at the same time, trips the breaker. After fighting through last year, I finally broke done and bought a big'un.

But fighting through numb fingers, I finished cutting out the herd of reindeer, I'll cut out the sleigh tomorrow...

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2017_12/IMG_4490.thumb.JPG.e7ab5897264dcd844f19c25958e691e 4.JPG

[kenmoik]

I have tried to make a knife but fail to do similar like you. It's lots of work. I totally gave up after a certain point! Instead of making a working knife it is easier to make a throw knife https://totalguide.org/best-throwing-knives/. You don't need to make too much sharper for this type of knives. But, if you want a workable knife, I will suggest to buy from the shop.

[Eichhörnchen]

It's a shame that Antze has left us as he'd surely know the answer to this.

The guys who put up my in-laws' 8X6' garden shed covered the roof with fibreglass. Now I've never seen this before; it's a continuous sheet of thin fibreglass (maybe 2mm) over a gently sloping flat timber roof, but they haven't created an overhang after wrapping it over the edges of the roof. If I'd covered this roof with felt, I'd have left an overhang of a couple of inches all round to shed the water. They've instead just cut the fibreglass level with the lower edge of the timber roof's frame.

Anyway, there are no cracks in this roof but it's leaking inside, and I think that maybe water is getting sucked in along this outer edge by capillary action (Moira's father was a fish farmer, used to building all kinds of systems to handle and contain water, and his favourite saying was "Water will always find a way").

My question is: if I run a sealant all round to seal the edge of the fibregass to the timber, what would be the best sealant to use? I don't want one that's going to be incompatible with the fibreglass, that's the main thing.

[em2nought]

Are there fasteners that penetrate the fiberglass and secure it to the rafters? My friend bought an Arrow shed which we assembled according to the direction, but it leaked badly right from the start. We found that we had to go back and remove every screw, put a dollop of silicone caulking on them all, and then fasten them again. No more leaks after that.


You may also be correct, the shed might have needed a drip edge type of product


https://proxy.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Finspectapedia.com%2Froof%2FRoof_Dr ip_Edge_Flashing_312_DJFse.jpg&f=1
Image being interesting because I never realized you leave a gap between the drip edge and the fascia in case any water gets through the sheathing. Image being also a bit confusing because shingles go over top of the drip edge and the fascia yet also. The sheathing is the black felt paper only.
http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/data:image/jpeg;base64,/9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/2wBDAAoHBwgHBgoICAgLCgoLDhgQDg0NDh0VFhEYIx8lJCIfIi EmKzcvJik0KSEiMEExNDk7Pj4+JS5ESUM8SDc9Pjv/2wBDAQoLCw4NDhwQEBw7KCIoOzs7Ozs7Ozs7Ozs7Ozs7Ozs7Oz s7Ozs7Ozs7Ozs7Ozs7Ozs7Ozs7Ozs7Ozs7Ozs7Ozv/wAARCAEsASsDASIAAhEBAxEB/8QAHwAAAQUBAQEBAQEAAAAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtRAAAgEDAwIEAwUFBAQAAAF9AQIDAAQRBRIhMUEGE1FhByJ xFDKBkaEII0KxwRVS0fAkM2JyggkKFhcYGRolJicoKSo0NTY3O Dk6Q0RFRkdISUpTVFVWV1hZWmNkZWZnaGlqc3R1dnd4eXqDhIW Gh4iJipKTlJWWl5iZmqKjpKWmp6ipqrKztLW2t7i5usLDxMXGx 8jJytLT1NXW19jZ2uHi4+Tl5ufo6erx8vP09fb3+Pn6/8QAHwEAAwEBAQEBAQEBAQAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtREAAgECBAQDBAcFBAQAAQJ3AAECAxEEBSExBhJBUQdhcRM iMoEIFEKRobHBCSMzUvAVYnLRChYkNOEl8RcYGRomJygpKjU2N zg5OkNERUZHSElKU1RVVldYWVpjZGVmZ2hpanN0dXZ3eHl6goO EhYaHiImKkpOUlZaXmJmaoqOkpaanqKmqsrO0tba3uLm6wsPEx cbHyMnK0tPU1dbX2Nna4uPk5ebn6Onq8vP09fb3+Pn6/9oADAMBAAIRAxEAPwD2aiiigAooooAKKKKACiiigAooooAKKKK ACiiigAooooAKKKKACiiigAooooAKKKKACiiigAooooAKKKKAC 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[Eichhörnchen]

Thanks. There are no fasteners... I'm guessing the fibreglass was glued down onto the timber roof. Did you use an outdoor silicone caulking or a regular bathroom type?

And looking at your picture, I'm thinking maybe I'd best try inserting a drip-edge all around (between the fibreglass and the wood frame). I think there might be enough of a gap to push a plastic strip in there with some gorilla glue or something on it (the fibreglass is wrapped over the edge all round, but does not hang down to shed the water)

[Catfish]

You need a frost-proof silicone, a building- or better well- silicone. No bathroom type, indoor stuff usually is not up for the job.

You can also use screws to bolt it down, then you need special ones that are watertight, in german we call them a "Spenglerschraube (https://www.hornbach.de/shop/Spenglerschraube-A2-mit-Dichtscheibe-4-5x55-mm-100-Stueck/7406902/artikel.html)" (roofing screw? They have a kind of special-formed washer or collar, with a rubber/silicon ring).

Best made of copper, or here stainless steel would be better. Then you have to drill first, otherwise you will have cracks in the fibreglass.

Whatever, you have to have a drip edge or an eaves gutter that keeps the water away from the critical edge. Those guys should at least have installed an overhang.

[em2nought]

We(and that's being generous since it was mostly me) used an exterior grade silicone caulk. I think I had to talk the lazy cheap @ss into splurging for it.



The fasteners we used had a little vinyl washer that was supposed to do the job, but failed miserably. I'm surprised Arrow has never had a class action lawsuit over that, and been force to send out proper roofing screws.


I think you could probably tuck and glue a drip edge under like you mention and have it fix your problem.


You might also be having condensation form on the underside of the fiberglass and drip down which a wall vent or two might relieve.

[Eichhörnchen]

Thanks to you both :yeah:

Maybe you can help with my other question below...

[Eichhörnchen]

It's not load-bearing, just the narrow corner trim at one end of my concrete pre-fab garage (one of those with a 'brick' pattern moulded into it)

I reckon moisture has got in over the years and caused the metal inside to corrode, expand then crack the concrete.

My question is how best to stop them continuing and getting bigger... I can keep water out to a degree by mortaring-up the cracks, but wouldn't it be best to inject some kind of waterproof adhesive first? What about Gorilla Glue... that is powerful, expands like expanding foam, and is waterproof too?

[Catfish]

Once the concrete has cracked and let water in, there is not much you can do. WIth contact to air and water, the iron will continue to oxidise. I do not know so much about what to do in such a case, first would be to stop further water and air entering the concrete.. :hmmm:
This is a serious problem with older concrete bridges here :yep:

edit: this is more an explanation why it happens, with a short comment on how to repair.. Concrete (https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.heimwerker.de%2Fhaus%2Fausbau-und-renovieren%2Fbauwerke-sanieren%2Fbetonschaeden-reparieren.html&edit-text=&act=url)

[Jimbuna]

Easy for me to sayI know and it isn't my roof but if water degradation has taken place I'd be looking to replace the roof if funds permit.

Sealing it up only maintains the water in situ and allows it to continue its negative effect unseen.