Glue marks

[Chad]

I'll admit it, I'm an amauter model builder, and the current one I'm working on, unknowingly I got some on my finger and got it on part of the hull where it's quite noticeable. I haven't painted yet, but will this affect the paint job, and if so is there anyway I can fix this?

[Torplexed]

A little sanding with fine grit paper. A little buffing. Do you have access to one of those Dremel rotary tools? I find those really handy. Some heads are for sanding, others for polishing. The paint job should cover the rest.

[Chad]

Yep! A little sanding did the trick. Thank you :yeah:

I know there's cement too fill in the cracks where a model doesn't completely snap together tightly. Should I use this cement in this particular instance and sand it down or is there an alternative to that?

[Sailor Steve]

If by 'cement' you mean tube model glue, absolutely not. It will soften the plastic and cause it to sag. You need modeler's filler putty, which is made just for that purpose. Any hobby shop will have it. Simply rub it into the cracks, let it dry and sand it smooth. Once it's done a coat of primer paint will reveal any imperfections that need more work.

[Chad]

Danke herr Steve :DL I'll give it a whirl :ping:

[Siara]

If you using the CA glue, and get some on the surface, just use the Debonder to get the marks off. Debonder will most likely dissolve all types of glue, without scratching the plastic surface. Not all the parts of the model are suitable for sanding- thats where the Debonder comes in handy.
For filling the cracks use the putty- like Steve mentioned.
For big cracks use the Milliput, or Magis Sculp, or Green Stuff.
After it dries you can use fine filler like green Squadron putty, or Tamiya putty.
Fot finishing the suface good use the Mr. Surfacer in various grades- 500, 1200, and so on.
For sanding start with the sandpaper grade 600, and work your way through the 800, 1200, and 1500.
2000 grade used wet style should give you just about super smooth surface.